Ebikemotion x35 speed limiter "fix"

Hi what do you mean, switch on and leave it on??
The controller on the handlebars of my Orbea F30 has four levels 0-1-2-3. It has a center on-off and up & down buttons on either side.

Unlike the single button controller you don't have to cycle through all the steps to adjust.

I'm not sure 0 speed is pure zero drag but if it's not it's very very close.
 
The controller on the handlebars of my Orbea F30 has four levels 0-1-2-3. It has a center on-off and up & down buttons on either side.

Unlike the single button controller you don't have to cycle through all the steps to adjust.

I'm not sure 0 speed is pure zero drag but if it's not it's very very close.
Ok I do not have that controller
 
Hi Stevenson. All the Gains have the iwoc 1 controller on the top tube where you can turn on the bike and cycle through the different levels, off-white, level one -green, level two - orange and level three - red, and totally turn off the bike by pressing the button down for a few seconds, but the flat bar models also have the iwoc 3 controller on the left side of the handlebar next to the shifter which has three buttons that allow you to go up and down power levels directly without having to cycle completely through the levels. It also allows you to enter walk mode by pressing on the down button for a few seconds. So it's an extra controller that's not on the road models, probably because there's no room for it on the handlebars.
 
Don't ride with assist turned off. Have it set to "0" no assist when not needed. No drag from motor then.
I just tried this but even at 100% as soon as the pedalling stops the wheel very quickly slows down. Maybe as long as the motor is on cycling is drag free but not the cruising.
 
I just tried this but even at 100% as soon as the pedalling stops the wheel very quickly slows down. Maybe as long as the motor is on cycling is drag free but not the cruising.
Agreed that is what I have always found. If you say top a hill and turn off the drag is significant
 
Agreed that is what I have always found. If you say top a hill and turn off the drag is significant

I've got two Gains, Carbon and Alloy. Never experienced any sort of drag to register. If I do get drag at all? Maybe I'm just too strong to notice? I would though expect if free wheeling to slow down quicker. That is one heavy hub.
 
Jaxx, I would suggest you get much higher mileage with the 15 mph limiter than we do. I have seen you suggest you get up to 100 miles/160 km. Best I have done is about 110 km. Little better than that turning battery off and on.

My ultimate test was to be last weekend when I was to do a Century. I figured with the battery extender I would be able to do the whole ride using power.

Unfortunately 2 weeks ago I had a pretty severe crash after going down hill at 50 kph and hitting a rock in the bike lane. Bike needed some repairs and so did I. Severe road rash, banged up elbow and shoulder.

Got the bike repaired in time for Century but had to bail at the 103 km mark when my shoulder seized up to the point I couldn't make a shoulder check. Think I may have torn rotor cuff. Will get it checked out when I get back to Canada next week.

Good news was though I was able to squeeze 90 km out of the extender battery which combined with the bike battery should give me over 200 kms of flat riding. Not that I am ever going to attempt that but reassuring to know I can throw some decent elevation into a 100km ride and be safe.


hey, I just want to know which bike you use and the route you take to get to 103 km with the battery, the most I have managed is 70 km
 
hey, I just want to know which bike you use and the route you take to get to 103 km with the battery, the most I have managed is 70 km

Ride in East Yorkshire, rolling roads. No long climbs, but can be short and steep. Around 10% a typical 55k ride will account for 1000 feet of climbing. Never really use above level 1 assist.
 
Does anyone have the control on the left? If so where is it mounted? I have both the center and right versions.
 

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hey, I just want to know which bike you use and the route you take to get to 103 km with the battery, the most I have managed is 70 km
70 Km is about the best for me too, but I can no longer ride an unassisted bike due to PAD so I am using some level of assistance most of the time. I actually get better range when riding with the club group, as it can be easier when drafting to maintain speeds over the 15.5mph cut-off if conditions are right. I'm riding an alloy Tiagra Gain, so it's not the lightest.
 
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hey, I just want to know which bike you use and the route you take to get to 103 km with the battery, the most I have managed is 70 km
I have a M20i. 103 km is on a mostly flat route. I got 70 km out of my extender battery last Saturday with about 300M of climbing. It is advertised to offer about 70% of main battery. I ride mainly I level 1.
 
Bonjour,

Je viens de changer mes configurations de batterie et après 2 sorties, je ne trouve pas beaucoup d'améliorations dans la distance parcourue.

J'ai mis 50% sur le vert, 75% sur l'orange et 100% sur le rouge

70 km et la batterie était sur orange en ayant fait 30 km sans assistance

Pouvez-vous svp m'expliquer par exemple si l'on a rencontré 20 ou 30% sur le vert, à qu'elle vitesse le moteur se mettra en rout

merci46661
 
Bonjour,

Je viens de changer mes configurations de batterie et après 2 sorties, je ne trouve pas beaucoup d'améliorations dans la distance parcourue.

J'ai mis 50% sur le vert, 75% sur l'orange et 100% sur le rouge

70 km et la batterie était sur orange en ayant fait 30 km sans assistance

Pouvez-vous svp m'expliquer par exemple si l'on a rencontré 20 ou 30% sur le vert, à qu'elle vitesse le moteur se mettra en rout

merciView attachment 46661


Cela dépendra du temps que vous passerez en mode 2, de votre poids et du niveau accumulé de l'itinéraire, de l'état de forme, ma configuration est 50/60/80, je m'éloigne beaucoup du mode 1 presque toujours lorsque j'allume et 2 rapidement du mode 3 Je ne l'ai pas utilisé jamais et selon le profil je peux faire 140 km et j'ai beaucoup de batterie, aujourd'hui j'ai fait 80km avec 1200 pente et j'ai dépensé 38% de batterie
 
[QUOTE = "r1roman, message: 254509, membre: 23213"]
Cela dépendra du temps que vous passerez en mode 2, de votre poids et du niveau accumulé de l'attention, de l'état de forme, ma configuration est 50/60/80, je m'éloigne beaucoup du mode 1 presque toujours quand j'allume et 2 rapidement du mode 3 je n'ai pas utilisé jamais et selon le profil je peux faire 140 km et j'ai beaucoup de batterie, aujourd'hui j'ai fait 80km avec 1200 pente et j'ai dépensé 38% de batterie
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Merci de ta réponse

Tu dois être en super forme pour rouler comme çà

En mode 1 configuré à 50%, ton moteur se met-il en route à qu'elle vitesse?

En ayant mis 50, et après quatre sorties, mon moteur déclenché de suite, je n'ai pas trop compris à quoi ça sert

Cordialement
 
Bonjour,

Je viens de changer mes configurations de batterie et après 2 sorties, je ne trouve pas beaucoup d'améliorations dans la distance parcourue.

J'ai mis 50% sur le vert, 75% sur l'orange et 100% sur le rouge

70 km et la batterie était sur orange en ayant fait 30 km sans assistance

Pouvez-vous svp m'expliquer par exemple si l'on a rencontré 20 ou 30% sur le vert, à qu'elle vitesse le moteur se mettra en rout

merciView attachment 46661
I have been trying to figure out just what 100% on each level represents in watts. I figure level 3 at 100% is 250 watts since it should be full power, but what is 100% at level 1 and 2?
 
[QUOTE = "PTS, post: 257081, membre: 30137"]
J'ai essayé de comprendre ce que 100% à chaque niveau représente en watts. Je pense que le niveau 3 à 100% est de 250 watts car il devrait être à pleine puissance, mais qu'est-ce que 100% aux niveaux 1 et 2?
[/CITATION]
Exactement comme toi ............

Et pas beaucoup de réponses
 
Mike - Yeah still troubleshooting this one... I'm suddenly very interested in this feature because on group rides I've found the manual iWoc power setting impractical... an example would be the group goes charging up a hill then crests the hill and backs it off coming to a slow easy pace (this is how most of my group rides go). I'd have the power level at Level 3 (full power) going up the hill but would then have to press the iWoc button quickly to Off or Level 1 when cresting the hill (difficult to do and impractical). (Otherwise if power is left at Level 3 you cant spin easily and slowly because the bike takes off at almost 20mph!)

Having the HR Auto Assist would help IF IT WORKS!? I tested this yesterday with very mixed results. It seemed to work at times but was mostly highly unpredictable. I'm going to test indoors (using a fake GPS app to fool the ebikemotion app into seeing motion and actually recording something).

Observations thus far:

* I'm using a tried and tested BLE HR monitor but the ebm app (I'm on the current Android version) seems to hang and frequently doesnt show changes in HR

* The latest Android update screwed up MPH and now the app doesnt seem to show speed on the screen correctly

* The Override Max HR setting in the Settings menu seems to be the only place to enter a target HR but I dont believe this impacts Auto Assist... it just effects the HR circle display on the app screen.

* I have no idea what the sensitive adjustment does at this point. The app manual is somewhat clear on intent, but not on how it actually works.

* Sometimes Assist would not come on until the target HR had been exceeded, but other times it continued after my HR fell well below the target (this might have something to do with the sensitivity setting which seems to be designed to keep you within a range around the target HR. I just dont know of 0 sensitivity or full sensitivity turns this off). For the ride, sensitivity was set at 5 out of 10.

* Also dont attempt to save a file when you dont have a good data connection... the save will fail and the app may crash... there seems to be NO local cache of the data!

I'm thinking that tweaking the custom Power Map for Levels 1-3 may also help achieve the auto assist we want.


While I understand what they are trying to do with HR its not really the best approach due to the variability in HR (due to temperature, fatigue, etc.) What I ideally want is assistance over a certain power output level. But since that would be hard to implement, a Cadence/Speed/Slope solution would seem more practical. The bike sensors already measure cadence and speed. And Slope is available from GPS position and/or the phone tilt sensors (some calibration before each ride might be needed for this). In other words... I only want assistance if I'm going faster than say 16mph OR am on a slope greater than 1.5% etc. This could be a custom curve for each rider.

I hope to report back when I have more data on the use of Auto Assist
Ed. Just got my wilier cento 1 w/x35 & w/ultegra di2. I'm having the same experience - only use low assist for steeper hills (70 y. o. Bad knees) but turning on and off repeatedly is very distracting and annoying. Have you found a shortcut to go to off then back on to low without all the toggling?
 
[QUOTE = "Gotbikes, message: 261849, membre: 8407"]
Ed. Je viens de recevoir mon wilier cento 1 w / x35 & w / ultegra di2. J'ai la même expérience - n'utilisez que l'assistance basse pour les collines plus raides (70 ans). Avez-vous trouvé un raccourci pour éteindre puis revenir à bas sans tout basculer?
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Bonjour,
Appuyer 3 à 4 secondes sur le bouton iWok (du moins, c'est ce que je fais)
 
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