Cross Current

Hi, small update here.

I was doing the same speed test today again. This time with fully charged battery and I also now have a phone mount to read gps speed all the time. Good news as per cycle droid I was able to get to a max speed of 29.5 mph (of course had to work really really hard for this). I could cruise with okayish effort at ~23mph. So altogether my bad results yesterday probably have been caused by a lower battery level. Nevertheless I felt the izip dash 2014 / 2015 is easier to keep at higher speeds, but it's bad reviews about the mechanical disk brakes (whereas CC has the awesome tektro dorado) and the slightly smaller battery kept from buying this instead (price point of dash 2015 and CC is btw about the same).

Just fyi:
The phone mount I used (initial impression is pretty good, very easy to mount and plugin ur phone, not too many moving parts which can break): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0USAI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The app I used for GPS speed: CycleDroid
 
Last edited:
Damn four?! I thought I had rough luck :)

Funny because the way your first one blew out is the same way mine did. I was originally at 70 psi, decided to go up to 80 since the sidewall says up to 85. Once I got to 80, I walked away to get the valve cover and it exploded very loud like a gunshot. So loud that my neighbor on his porch kinda yelled out of surprise. Unfortunately the blow out was pretty severe, it actually warped the rim itself. I brought it to performance cycle which is right near by and they told me that it's not fixable.

Maybe this can be a quick heads up for anyone else, be careful filling the tires.

Even with this issue, I still love the bike, just gonna hate having it sit for a little while... :(
My rear tube blew while riding this morning. I had it at 65-70psi. I'm think I'm going to had to keep the psi at 55 or below from now on.
 
My rear tube blew while riding this morning. I had it at 65-70psi. I'm think I'm going to had to keep the psi at 55 or below from now on.

Good idea. I've been keeping mine just over 50 and it feels just fine, easily gets to 28 mph, and hopefully won't blow.
 
Hi, small update here.

I was doing the same speed test today again. This time with fully charged battery and I also now have a phone mount to read gps speed all the time. Good news as per cycle droid I was able to get to a max speed of 29.5 mph (of course had to work really really hard for this). I could cruise with okayish effort at ~23mph. So altogether my bad results yesterday probably have been caused by a lower battery level. Nevertheless I felt the izip dash 2014 / 2015 is easier to keep at higher speeds, but it's bad reviews about the mechanical disk brakes (whereas CC has the awesome tektro dorado) and the slightly smaller battery kept from buying this instead (price point of dash 2015 and CC is btw about the same).

Just fyi:
The phone mount I used (initial impression is pretty good, very easy to mount and plugin ur phone, not too many moving parts which can break): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0USAI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The app I used for GPS speed: CycleDroid

I recommend getting the handleband by nite ize. Best phone holder I've ever used.
 
Thanks to both Rob and Geek for offering phone holder suggestions. I'm about to order one for my CC and appreciate the recs.
 
Some more observations after a few days. The rear tire is a pain to get back on since the dropout slot is sized just wide enough to slip over the double flats on the axle. You will gouge/scratch the chainstay with the disc trying to get it back on. I also worry about damaging the cadence sensor bit on the torque sensor with the small cog hitting it while mounting the wheel. You will also need an 18mm wrench with angled box end to deal with the drive side nut because the torque sensor/dropout design makes the nut recessed a bit. This might be an easy fix with a thicker washer or spacer.

I somehow got a flat on the spoke side & attempts to patch it failed several times with one situation causing the patch to pop in the center over the hole in the tube. The wheels come with a rubber rim liner & I think the tube/patch just expanded too much into the spoke holes so I just replaced the rear one with cloth rim tape. Also gonna replaced the rear tire with a Schwalbe Energizer Plus HS 427 because my 1st ebike came with similar tires which lasted over 9k miles.

The 700c x 45 schrader tubes in the bike doesn't seem to be common in shops around here, but 700c x 43 should work fine. Just replaced my 2nd tube with a presta version inside the schrader rim.
I just replaced my first tube in the rear wheel and I can second that you will need an offset 18mm box wrench to remove the wheel. And that putting the wheel back is very tight. I scraped up the chain stay with the disc brake and the torque sensor got knocked around a bit too.

Unfortunately, the new tube blew after a short test ride at 50 psi. I'm hoping that my second attempt at this goes more smoothly than the first.
 
My rear tire has been has been fine for over 3 weeks now after using a tube that is correctly sized (43mm vs 45mm), removing all the sharp corners in the rim holes, replacing the rubber rim strip with something better, & switching to a Schalbwe tire. Can't exactly say which one of these action made the difference (probably the rim poking the tube), but over 500 miles later still going without a flat at 70 PSI. The front tire is still stock though & also at around 70 PSI.
 
@youth, I too chose to put a Schalbwe (Marathon Plus) on the rear wheel while keeping the Kenda on the front. I run the Schwalbe tire at 60# (Kenda at 70#). What pressure have you been using on the Schwalbe? Any particular rationale? (I chose 60# simply because it was about in the middle of the range).

And BTW @youth, what's the 'black box' you have velcro-mounted to a piece of acrylic behind your handlebars? Looks intriguing!
 
For those wondering about the 7.8 ah battery range and/or the performance of the CC, I thought I'd add my experiences so far to this long, informative thread.

When I selected the group of (essentially road) ebikes I wanted to test ride, I used the same simple approach I've used when picking past cruising sailboats, my little airplane and the last several cars. 1) What's the most demanding mission I have? 2) What is my budget? 3) Based on 2, what's the best value purchase that is likely to accomplish 1. My missions were pretty basic: recreational riding, replacing a 2nd car for local grocery/big box store runs, and getting to the airport. That last one demands the most from the bike: a 10 mile ride with modest elevation change that leaves me feeling fresh enough that a several hour flight doesn't leave me fatigued, followed by another 10 mile ride home.

Yesterday I did the first such airport run (plus flight & return ride) since buying the bike. I averaged 21 mph going and, after the flight, both the bike and I had enough oomph to do the return trip at 18 mph. I'd like to avoid needing to charge the bike's battery while at the hangar (tho' that's always an option if I bring the charger with me) so that's how I did this trip - no mid-ride charging. I used '1' power level ~85% of the time, with ~5% on 'Eco' and ~10% on '2'. It was a 70+F sunny day with variable, light winds. In total the bike + I probably weighed 240#. The ride, mostly through farmland, was extremely enjoyable, ridden at a pace which for me was physically demanding, and certainly validated the CC choice. At the end of the ride, the battery had enough power left to sustain 'Sport' power and, powering on level '1' was showing 4 LEDs, on '2' was showing '3' LEDs. (See below for how pitiful this kind of 'data' really is).

Bike with 505 at BZN.jpg

I'm very pleased with the bike tho' it does present itself with a few quibbles IMO:
-- The power meter (5 LEDs at the top of the 'display') is truly inadequate. It simply reports battery voltage (on some undefined scale) and battery voltage is highly dependent on the load it's seeing. At no load, with the battery at ambient, the power LEDs may represent 'something' (again, no defined scale) that is repeatable & accurate. But that's not how we ride our bikes. I plan to send Tora my Santa's List, at the top of which is some kind of retro'd interface magic that provides CC owners with a way to add a smart battery display. Alas, probably not in the cards for these Gen 1 bikes, ever. Will my 7.8 ah battery make this round trip with temps 30F lower and more typical Montana winds to deal with? My hopeful hunch is 'yes' with winds <15 mph...but wouldn't it be nice to know where I stand when I'm on that last (naturally, uphill) 4 miles?
-- No owner's manual came with the bike, nor is one released yet that I know of. My impression is that's because Tora was responding more to the white-hot interest in the CC and trying to get us on our rides sooner, and dealing with the manual later. That was certainly my preference. And perhaps, Tora being the clever guy we know him to be, is documenting the lessons learned and details surfacing (e.g. tools needed to work on the bike, like that 18mm box end wrench, and how to fit a recommended rear rack) and will produce a truly useful manual. That would icing on the cake for future buyers.
-- Mind the lead of the derailleur cable from its last tie-down point, past the gears and to the derailleur. My cable physically conflicted with the chain when the highest gear (smallest cog) was selected and would have caused chafe fairly quickly. Also be careful about adding another wire-tie just aft of the tie-down point, to avoid that chafe, as you can put too tight a bend on the lead of the cable itself.
-- Had I not asked the bike store to install the rear rack, I would probably still be wondering just what my best option is. Clearly, rack mounting was not put on the CC design brief.

That's an impressively short set of nits to pick for a Gen 1 product. And let me add two positive comments I don't see mentioned enough.
-- Riding the CC is enjoyable without power. Just before I began test riding ebikes in order to choose one, I was advised here to be sure to ride them all with the power turned off as a) it would reveal the nature of the bike itself, and b) you may want to ride without power earlier in a ride to have power left for a tough part later. It was good advice because - surprise, surprise - not all the bikes I rode did equally well even tho’ they all weighed within a few pounds of one another and had similar if not better gear sets.
-- At lower power levels it really impresses me as one of the more quiet ebikes to ride. That makes every trip just a bit better.

I found I had to fly some distance - in my case, Madison WI - in order to include the CC in my test riding. I'm very glad I chose to do that.

Jack
 
Looks good Jack, I have my pilot's license but I haven't flown in ages. My current observations on range are that I can almost completely drain the 7.8ah in 10 miles if I ride flat-out in 'S' mode hence my plan to upgrade to the 23.4ah battery when it's released. I've heard the 983wH battery in a Stromer ST2 only does 30 miles @ 28mph so I think the CC range is perfectly normal.

I ended up replacing the quick release seat post clamp with one of these 31.8 clamps so my Bodyfloat post isn't so easily stolen. I'm leaning towards the Hexlox security locks to secure the allen bolt but it hasn't been released yet. I'm also planning to remove the front wheel quick release for security reasons. I'll probably get the cover for the Bodyfloat that youth has so it stands out less.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
 
Last edited:
what's the 'black box' you have velcro-mounted to a piece of acrylic behind your handlebars? Looks intriguing!

I have both tires at around 70 PSI so it can roll better.

I don't like using earphones when riding, so the thing on my stem is a simple custom made mount for my bluetooth speaker.

Interesting choice going with the CC instead of a folding ebike that you could carry you on that nice plane.
 
@youth, my 'airport bike' - airports are large and getting around on a bike is convenient - is an old, 'venerable' folding Dahon. It can be placed in the Grumman's cargo area. But then what do my wife and pooch use? :(
 
My 10.4 ah battery cross current developed quite a rattle. Eventually I had to take the bike in for what seemed like a torque sensor issue. As it turns out it was due to a fitment issue with the battery. Juiced is aware of the issue, just wanted to leave a heads up in case anyone else experiences either battery rattling or intermittent assist outages in the meantime. From what I gather not many 10.4 batteries are out in the wild at this time so hopefully I am an isolated case.
 
Does anyone have any fender recommendations to put on my cross current? I have noticed a lot of splash back when riding in wet conditions.
 
Just gave one of these a test ride in town. The bike shop said Juiced knows of an issue where the controller overheats and are working on a solution. Has anyone had that issue?
 
Just gave one of these a test ride in town. The bike shop said Juiced knows of an issue where the controller overheats and are working on a solution. Has anyone had that issue?

What are the symptoms? Today I saw some odd behavior today with my display having all the assist LED's lit & blinking at once & it then shut down twice towards the end of my 16 mile one way commute. I have a little over 1,600 miles on the bike. I've ridden on days in the 90's & haven't noticed this before & today was just warm.
 
What are the symptoms? Today I saw some odd behavior today with my display having all the assist LED's lit & blinking at once & it then shut down twice towards the end of my 16 mile one way commute. I have a little over 1,600 miles on the bike. I've ridden on days in the 90's & haven't noticed this before & today was just warm.


He didn't say. I assume the power would cut out. He said the current way they are fixing it is a few inches above the battery on the downtube where the controller is mounted to put some tinfoil to make a makeshift heatsink.

*Shrug*

Now I'm stuck between a Flx or a Crosscurrent
 
He didn't say. I assume the power would cut out. He said the current way they are fixing it is a few inches above the battery on the downtube where the controller is mounted to put some tinfoil to make a makeshift heatsink.

*Shrug*

Now I'm stuck between a Flx or a Crosscurrent

Hi, Im Luis from JuicedBikes. Glad to hear you tested one of our bikes; which dealer did you visited?

Some of our users have reached to us regarding this "sudden shutdown" event. In resume i can say that its user dependent because it is a protection programmed into the system in case of overheating due to high power demand and high temperatures in the environment.

Ill quote Tora as he is actually addressing this and other items in order to keep developing a great product for us all

" This event can happen in certain situations like hill climbing.

The system needs to cool down as the temp sensor sees high temp and shuts down for a moment to cool down. We found that there is some variation of the temp sensor.

With better transfer of heat away from the body of the controller the issue is less likely to occur.

We are using thermally conductive tape and a strip of aluminum to transmit the heat right to the frame ( not tin foil). The effect is quite dramatic. We study it a lot and better understand the issue on the production units.

These new controller integrated into the bike frame designs have more limited ability cool down. Additionally we run it at 48V when most run at 36V with momentary over-boost function.

Our bikes can really assist up to 28mph And a over boost function maybe we could program it to be less easy to trigger.

The controller and motor is designed to handle the power, but physically could be better positioned so the heat can get dumped away from the controller faster.

All production units moving forward have been improved. And we will keep improving the product so it's constantly evolving.

And if someone frequently encounters over heat warning we can supply them with the part and instructions to improve it. "
 
Hi, Im Luis from JuicedBikes. Glad to hear you tested one of our bikes; which dealer did you visited?

Some of our users have reached to us regarding this "sudden shutdown" event. In resume i can say that its user dependent because it is a protection programmed into the system in case of overheating due to high power demand and high temperatures in the environment.

Ill quote Tora as he is actually addressing this and other items in order to keep developing a great product for us all

" This event can happen in certain situations like hill climbing.

The system needs to cool down as the temp sensor sees high temp and shuts down for a moment to cool down. We found that there is some variation of the temp sensor.

With better transfer of heat away from the body of the controller the issue is less likely to occur.

We are using thermally conductive tape and a strip of aluminum to transmit the heat right to the frame ( not tin foil). The effect is quite dramatic. We study it a lot and better understand the issue on the production units.

These new controller integrated into the bike frame designs have more limited ability cool down. Additionally we run it at 48V when most run at 36V with momentary over-boost function.

Our bikes can really assist up to 28mph And a over boost function maybe we could program it to be less easy to trigger.

The controller and motor is designed to handle the power, but physically could be better positioned so the heat can get dumped away from the controller faster.

All production units moving forward have been improved. And we will keep improving the product so it's constantly evolving.

And if someone frequently encounters over heat warning we can supply them with the part and instructions to improve it. "


Good to hear the updates to fix the issue. I should have made it clear the tinfoil fix was a makeshift home solution not the way they said Juiced was fixing it. Also the tinfoil fix they mentioned was on the outside of the frame to act as a mini heatsink to help in better heat transfer and cooling. It makes sense it has recently been 90-100* here and there are lots of hills in my area so I think it is a perfect storm type situation.

The warranty and communication and local bike shop support from Juiced def has me leaning to a Cross over the Flx currently.
 
Back