Cable actuated hydraulic caliper upgrade

usclassic

Active Member
Region
USA
Best price I found on eBay for the pair
https://www.ebay.com/itm/317661055640

Easy brake install using stock 5mm screws and four spacers in stock positions two above and two below each screw. Initial test ride found them solid feeling, secure braking and silent.

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That's a cable actuated hydraulic caliper, not a "hydro brake".
Good call, Chris. What’s a “hydro brake,” then?

My question for all of you, is there any advantage to cable-actuated brakes vs. hydraulic hoses? Are these best for retrofitted bikes? But, in order to mount these calipers don’t you already need bosses on the tubes to accept them? Just curious.
 
Yes, you need the frame fittings. These replace mechanical disk brakes and work well til they don't. I have installed two HB100's and one of them failed (leak) after a few months, but the replacement has been good for a few years. Probably 5% of them might leak. I have spares.

I think you get more braking power for less lever pull with these, but it still takes some pull. You can get a pair of full hydraulic Shimamo MT200 calipers/hose/levers for 60 bucks, which will stop a 40lb bike with one finger, You don't get the electric switches, but you can get MT200E's with brake switches for a little more. Of course, none of this is plug and play.
 
I'm not sure what a "hydro brake" is, but a hydraulic disc brake, as used on bicycles, is a hydraulic braking system that uses a lever containing a master cylinder, a caliper containing one or more slave cylinders, and a sealed, high pressure, hydraulic hose that connects the two. The system is filled with hydraulic fluid. Pulling the lever compresses the fluid which moves the caliper pistons which contact the disc.

On bicycles, disc brakes, no matter how they are actuated, come in several styles. For levers, they can be set up for drop bars or flat bars, with or without rise or sweep. For calipers, they can be single or multi piston, and usually either flat mount or post mount. Flat mount calipers have threaded bosses in them. The mounting hardware goes through the frame and into the caliper. Post mount calipers are the opposite. Mounting hardware goes through the caliper and into a threaded boss on the frame. Rotors are usually either 6-bolt or centerlock, which defines how they are mounted to the wheel hub. Rotor diameter depends on the frame design and rider needs. Calipers have a base rotor diameter, usually 140mm or 160mm, where they can be direct mounted to the bike. Larger rotors require adapters or spacers to properly space the caliper away from the rotor, and ensure proper brake pad contact. Pads are usually resin, semi-metallic, or metallic.

Cable actuated brake bikes can be converted to hydraulic brakes. Rotor size can be changed. Single or 2-piston systems can be converted to multi-piston. Flat mount can be converted to post mount, and sometimes, the other way around. It all depends on the bike.

As someone mentioned in another thread, these hybrid cable actuated hydraulic calipers can provide some degree of improved lever feel, consistency, and braking power while retaining the stock cable actuated brake levers, which may or may not have brake cutouts in them to kill the motor while braking. It can be a cheap, simple, and easy upgrade. A full hydraulic upgrade can be much more expensive and involved, but the end result is more significant.
 
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Good call, Chris. What’s a “hydro brake,” then?

My question for all of you, is there any advantage to cable-actuated brakes vs. hydraulic hoses? Are these best for retrofitted bikes? But, in order to mount these calipers don’t you already need bosses on the tubes to accept them? Just curious.
I've used both cable and hydraulic brakes on my bikes. The advantage to cable is, there is no bleeding to worry about and adjustments are easier. The disadvantage is, the "feel" isn't as positive due to minute stretching of the cable when the brakes are applied.

Once I converted to hydraulic, I never went back.

Just my 2 cents though.
 
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