BBS*** Settings for a Smoother Ride

[Stefan Mikes]

It is the derailleur to help with easy ride starts. Cadence over 70 helps with bad knees. A bike that is 53 lbs or so helps, too.

 

[Haystacks]

...a quick update as I changed my throttle from a full twist to a half twist and I noticed that in the first few millimeters of rotation there was no motor response. Changing the Start Voltage on page three from 11 to 9 corrected the issue. A setting of 8 caused an 04 Throttle Error.

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ohh and I almost forgot... this post is dedicated to my good friend.
# @Stefan Mikes #throttle #Bafang #BBS02B #

You forgot #FatTyres maybe #BBSXX too.

You know what it is though don't you? Some people pay a lot for s*it, ubiquitous, bland rides. They don't like the people who throw caution to the wind and create truly custom rides that are made for their needs. I have wondered who the plants are, the ones who dont declare that infact they are from the marketing dept of specialized, trek, R+M or whatever, cos this place feels more like a bike mall than a community sometimes, hence the hate. I'd be pissed too though if i paid silly money at a shop and had some punk on a BBSHD cruising past me having a great old time testing his latest configuration on his motor.

For some reason i have an Oscar Wilde quote rattling around

“Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.”

I think Custom ebikes are a powerful educational tool, how much have you had to learn? How many new skills have you gained? How are your (e)bike mechanical procedures now?

There are people who owe their livings from that curiosity and creativity on this very site and they are revered, but as a pleb, if you stray from the mainstream you are looked down upon, curious.

Punk, as if.

#BBSHD #FATBIKE #PUNKASFUCK

 

[Gionnirocket]

It is the derailleur to help with easy ride starts. Cadence over 70 helps with bad knees. A bike that is 53 lbs or so helps, too.

Yes I am aware but on bad days even starting in the lowest gear on a decline in terrain can be painful. And if I aggravate it from the start, it tends to get worse as the day continues. Years of working on construction projects has taken its toll. For the most part I ride in the lower half of my seven speeds but at a certain cadence I find it more comfortable to shift up. I haven't weighed my bike but given the purchase weight and the changes I've made I guesstimate it at about 57lbs

 

[Gionnirocket]

You forgot #FatTyres maybe #BBSXX too.

You know what it is though don't you? Some people pay a lot for s*it, ubiquitous, bland rides. They don't like the people who throw caution to the wind and create truly custom rides that are made for their needs. I have wondered who the plants are, the ones who dont declare that infact they are from the marketing dept of specialized, trek, R+M or whatever, cos this place feels more like a bike mall than a community sometimes, hence the hate. I'd be pissed too though if i paid silly money at a shop and had some punk on a BBSHD cruising past me having a great old time testing his latest configuration on his motor.

For some reason i have an Oscar Wilde quote rattling around



I think Custom ebikes are a powerful educational tool, how much have you had to learn? How many new skills have you gained? How are your (e)bike mechanical procedures now?

There are people who owe their livings from that curiosity and creativity on this very site and they are revered, but as a pleb, if you stray from the mainstream you are looked down upon, curious.

Punk, as if.

#BBSHD #FATBIKE #PUNKASFUCK

I agree there is a certain snobbery around here that I find ridiculous. I understand not all are inclined and/or capable to work on their own bike, but don't sit there and tell me that you are doing things better than me because you paid a ton of money, only deal with the best LBS... yet don't have the skill set to turn a screwdriver.
Thing is... I haven't seen an ebike that isn't within my means financially. But I made a conscious choice to breathe new life into my ol' beater as I've always enjoyed riding her and I've always gained greater satisfaction from creating something than purchasing.


I'll add when I see their butt ugly (in my opinion) bikes... this is the thought with sound mind you that always pops into my head.

 

[tinasdude]

The limitless profile is where my tuning is rooted. I do not use 100 in the % speed column, but I use low current levels for PAS current. Cadence can be controlled by using the figures in the % speed column as a percent of maximum rated rpm. Then adjust from there. https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...-programming/80519-limitless-profile-question

 

[Gionnirocket]

The limitless profile is where my tuning is rooted. I do not use 100 in the % speed column, but I use low current levels for PAS current. Cadence can be controlled by using the figures in the % speed column as a percent of maximum rated rpm. Then adjust from there. https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...-programming/80519-limitless-profile-question

Always useful to see different approaches.
What is your riding style? To exercise? Do you want continuous motor help?

 

[tinasdude]

Always useful to see different approaches.
What is your riding style? To exercise? Do you want continuous motor help?

I ride to get outside and for excercise. The limitless is a good idea about PAS progression. Find the current you like to star off with and work from there. After finding the current progression you like, then you can work on the cadence. Eventually you will get to a very natural feeling set up for yourself. It will be perfect for you and probably nobody else. i don't share my settings. I share the concept, because I know my settings will not feel right to someone else since they are tailored to my desires.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I ride to get outside and for excercise. The limitless is a good idea about PAS progression. Find the current you like to star off with and work from there. After finding the current progression you like, then you can work on the cadence. Eventually you will get to a very natural feeling set up for yourself. It will be perfect for you and probably nobody else. i don't share my settings. I share the concept, because I know my settings will not feel right to someone else since they are tailored to my desires.

I concur... pretty much what I said in post #1

 

[tinasdude]

Your current settings in PAS are almost at stock levels. PAS 1 I have set very low current and low cadence. Sort of like riding around at walking walking speed. Use for around crowds if I cannot pedal without power. I don't get anywhere near PAS 1 current level until I am in PAS 6. Should consume less power with this progression and make me work more. I need to get back to my BBSHD bike and tweak my settings. I have been playing with a folding step thru bike. 35 amps and over 1900 peak watts. Basic controller does not allow the fine control like the BBSHD. I am looking forward to the arrival of my CC. i assume next month?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Your current settings in PAS are almost at stock levels. PAS 1 I have set very low current and low cadence. Sort of like riding around at walking walking speed. Use for around crowds if I cannot pedal without power. I don't get anywhere near PAS 1 current level until I am in PAS 6. Should consume less power with this progression and make me work more. I need to get back to my BBSHD bike and tweak my settings. I have been playing with a folding step thru bike. 35 amps and over 1900 peak watts. Basic controller does not allow the fine control like the BBSHD. I am looking forward to the arrival of my CC. i assume next month?

You need to take into account the Overall current setting at the top of the page. On the BBS02B I've dropped the stock 25a to 20a and am currently playing around with 18a. My reason for doing so is that when using throttle or PAS 9 I have no use for anything above those levels and setting a lower overall amperage helps protect the motor from unintentional high current slams. My PAS 1 cuts out at about 6mph and never goes above a few amps which I use similarly as you do.
Two ways to skin the same cat

 

[tinasdude]

I saw your current setting at the top. it is still significantly higher in starting PAS levels. Your max current philosophy is very sound. Your PAS 1 current is around 10 amps. My PAS 1 current is between 2-3 amps. Mine is a street tune for my fatty

 

[Gionnirocket]

I saw your current setting at the top. it is still significantly higher in starting PAS levels. Your max current philosophy is very sound. Your PAS 1 current is around 10 amps. My PAS 1 current is between 2-3 amps. Mine is a street tune for my fatty

It never reaches 10 amp as the cadence settings temper it. It may get close if I am going very slowly up a very steep and bumpy trail and letting the motor do most of the work.. but still never going over 6mph and at a very manageable rate. Also I take the Bafang Programing with a grain of salt as I feel it's implementation is far from state of the art and can be somewhat clumsy. So settings don't always directly correspond to actual output. That's said with a little tweaking you can get it to do what you want and smoothly.
But as you and many others have said... The variables here are many and with different bikes, needs and terrain tackled there are many ways to do this. I'm riding road oriented 26X2.20 tires that have a low roll resistance mostly on paved rail trails and hard packed earth trails.

 

[AHicks]

You've looked into and are able to switch between Eco and Sport modes with that control, right? One is red and the other Green?

Other than what it's doing between those mode currently, how would your profiles differ?

 

[AHicks]

No. Not without plugging in your laptop. If I remember correctly, they're talking about running out of memory as it is. Doubling the requirement for a second profile, and the ability to switch between them sounds like quite a stretch.

There's no reason you couldn't have 2 different profiles on your laptop and load your preference while getting ready for your ride. It would only take a minute...

I'm still not clear on how your 2 "profiles" would differ from the current Eco and Sport modes.

 

[AHicks]

Terminology is not helping us I think. That's why I asked you to expand on your thoughts a bit, to better understand where you are coming from, so I might be able to share what is available/make that work?

The Eco and Sport modes do provide SOME of what you are asking about (laid back vs. go for it), but they share some commonality. How hard the throttle hits when accelerating from a stop might be a good example. That's a fixed, set value that's not going to change from one mode to the next. You can make it mild to wild, but it's not going to change from Eco to Sport mode.

If you don't mind doing some reading that relates to exactly what is going on, with some examples of what others are doing, have a look here. In the first note, there's a ton of information in several good articles linked, that will explain exactly what you can do, with examples.

Bafang Ultra (and BBSxx) Tuning

Guys, I'm pretty sure the Bafang Ultra programming is the same as it comes from the factory, no matter what bike it's installed in. As a (very curious) new owner myself, I'm finding that good/very relevant info is being spread from one end of EBR to the other in each of the brand forums that are...

electricbikereview.com

 

[voidedwarranty]

How hard the throttle hits when accelerating from a stop might be a good example. That's a fixed, set value that's not going to change from one mode to the next. You can make it mild to wild, but it's not going to change from Eco to Sport mode.

I do believe this covers most of my thought process. Thank you for the clarity

 

[Gionnirocket]

I've continually played around with settings here trying to find the utopia. . . but also to keep the gears turning and my rides interesting.
Then add that during this time my aches and pains have been worse, especially during the cold winter months requiring more assistance and that I've played around with different size chainrings and freewheel cog groups.
That said I've come to the conclusion that you can't take the settings as described literally and the best approach (at least for me) has been to adjust a setting, see the affect and try again. A few interesting observations would be where I didn't notice much change in Keep Current from setting 50 to 80, but 85 made the motor cut in/out smoother and 90 was my final resting place.
Another would be Slow-start mode... A lower number is suppose to mean a faster ramp rate, but I sometimes found 3 slower and smoother than 4.
One caveat being that the algorithm ( if that's what you can call this no manufacturer information provided mess) doesn't act consistently and the way one setting acts depends on how other settings are set and it's not always linear or predictable. So Slow-start of 3 may act smoother with a Keep Current of 60 then 4... but 5 is smoother with a Keep Current of 90.
Then the Speed Limit % settings on page one have their own funk. . .
If in 3rd gear PAS 4 will take me to 13mph before assistance stops all together... but if I shift to 4th gear it will assist up until 14mph. This continues up and down the gear selection. Now this isn't necessarily a bad thing as I find switching a gear often brings me to my desired cadence/speed sweet_spot better and smoother than changing PAS
And lastly on the PAS Current Limit% on page one. . . don't take them too literally as cadence and speed temper them down, especially at lower PAS speed settings where you quickly reach the cutoff threshold and I found it better to just see what number provides the desired effect then being stuck on a value. . though they do act more predictably and linear going up and down the scale.
I've somewhat altered how I use the PAS scale as well and I have my Top Speed set to 28mph on my display.
PAS 0: Neutral, no Pas or Throttle
PAS 1- 2 To navigate tight paths, steep bumpy trails or any slow speed situation. (Usually in gear 1-2)
PAS 2-3 To get you rolling in most flat ground situations
PAS 4- 6 My main usage riding... Keeps me in the teens as far as speed.
PAS 7-8 For +/-20 mph
PAS 9 Now your movin'... But really for using the Throttle as I have it set so the Throttle will always use PAS 9 at full power and speed.
My Throttle Start and End Voltage are set for a Half Throttle Grip, not the stock Thumb throttle
Well this is where I'm at now and I'm finding this batch of settings apropos at this juncture.

Please keep in mind that these settings are for an old man looking to exercise with a little assistance and doesn't want to be launched at every turn. . . though still possible using the PAS scale more aggressively or banging the throttle.

EDIT: I've updated the attached photos to reflect some minor changes since my initial post.

 

[AHicks]

Thanks for posting!
I've read this 3 times, and the information is just not registering.

The fact I just got my second Covid shot may not be helping anything......

Going to have to come back to this later. -Al

 

[Gionnirocket]

Thanks for posting!
I've read this 3 times, and the information is just not registering.

The fact I just got my second Covid shot may not be helping anything......

Going to have to come back to this later. -Al

I got my second shot last Wednesday.
I feel liberated though I really haven't changed what I'm doing.
Hope you are back to 110% soon.

 

[SimsRevenge]

Great thread and I applied your settings to my BBS02 and my initial observation is that the start up is a bit too sluggish so have changed from 10 to 20 and it's a lot improved. To compensate I've also changed the max amps to 18 to lessen the load on the controller. Thanks for posting your settings as they have been extremely useful.

just one question as a new member I'm struggling to search for your revised settings in post #80. Does it have a title or is there a way to search for post numbers?