2023 Trek Domane+

Captain Slow said:
Antonio, if you wouldn't mind sharing your impressions of the Domane+ vs the Orbea Gain once you've had more time on the Domane+ I'd really appreciate it as I'm interested in the Domane+.

I had a Creo, which was nice but I wanted to buy a nice set of carbon wheels and given the goofy spacing of the Creo I wasn't willing to drop big money on a set of wheels that could only be used on the Creo. That and I found on the road I really like a 2X drivetrain a lot more than 1X. So the Creo is gone and I'm contemplating a Domane+ in the near future. One issue I find is that in Canada they don't sell the Domane+ SLR6 and you have to buy the 7.

Trek just released an aluminum Fuel EXe so perhaps they'll do the same with the Domane+ which would be a more affordable model.
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Hello Captain Slow,
It is in my pending anwers list. I will do asap.
 
Deacon Blues said:
Anyone on this thread who rides a SLR+ have a problem with their chain falling off (front)?
I know two people who recently bought one and both are having problems with their chain falling off when going from the small to big ring in the front.
So far the bike shop hasn't been able to fix the problem. Both bikes are Di2 Ultegra.
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Hello Deacon Blues,
I am riding a Domane+ SLR 6 with Shimano 105 Di2 and Praxis front gear.
Bearing in mind the failure that you reported, last week I carried out some basic tests trying to find out under what conditions the chain could drop when changing the front gear.
As you know, when we are using the largest cog in the front (50 in the case) the rear cage is putting too much tension on the chain. When you shift to a small (36) front cog, the Di2 does it relatively quickly and in that time gap the chain tension is released. I found that if during that transition you maintain a medium-high cadence, the chain always derails, but if in that transition you stop pedaling momentarily, and start again but with low cadence, it never derails.
Now, I've also tested shifting from low to high front gearing, and never had a chain drop problem. It seems to me that your problem here may be a lack of fine adjustment of the Di2.
I hope this is of your help.
 
I have had no chain derailments at all, although I always back off slightly. I also found it helpful in this regard to increase the motor response, otherwise the boost stays on and the shifts are harsher. I have also noticed the subtle increase in assistance when I hit a sudden rise, as WSP mentions. It's almost like it "knows" what is needed, haha. Thanks, btw, for all the excellent analysis on rider v motor input, and temp.

Overall, I really love the technology and speed of this bike, but unfortunately it seems my beat-up knees are not acclimating well to the increased Q-factor. At 163mm it is only 18mm wider than my other (acoustic) road bikes, which are 145mm. And it's way narrower than a Creo, which is 181mm. Yet I get knee pain anytime I ride just 15-20 miles, even with the boost up, and have to wait a week before I can ride it again. The fit otherwise is excellent.

Does anyone else have any issues with knee pain from an e-bike? I suspect my knees are just worn in to the narrow road bike cranks after 20+ years. I have no issues with the same distance or even more on my acoustic Roubaix, Diverge, or Waterford - all of which are standard road width (145mm), so am gravitating back to riding them the most frequently. Not sure if I should keep trying and possibly risk permanent damage, or just sell it.
 
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mtnroads said:
I have had no chain derailments at all, although I always back off slightly. I also found it helpful in this regard to increase the motor response, otherwise the boost stays on and the shifts are harsher. I have also noticed the subtle increase in assistance when I hit a sudden rise, as WSP mentions. It's almost like it "knows" what is needed, haha. Thanks, btw, for all the excellent analysis on rider v motor input, and temp.

Overall, I really love the technology and speed of this bike, but unfortunately it seems my beat-up knees are not acclimating well to the increased Q-factor. At 163mm it is only 18mm wider than my other (acoustic) road bikes, which are 145mm. And it's way narrower than a Creo, which is 181mm. Yet I get knee pain anytime I ride just 15-20 miles, even with the boost up, and have to wait a week before I can ride it again. The fit otherwise is excellent.

Does anyone else have any issues with knee pain from an e-bike? I suspect my knees are just worn in to the narrow road bike cranks after 20+ years. I have no issues with the same distance or even more on my acoustic Roubaix, Diverge, or Waterford - all of which are standard road width (145mm), so am gravitating back to riding them the most frequently. Not sure if I should keep trying and possibly risk permanent damage, or just sell it.
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Too bad about your knee pain. If the Q factor really is the culprit, are your cleats moved as far outbound (bringing feet inward) as possible but still allowing pedaling without rubbing your feet on the cranks? And if you haven’t had a thorough fit done on this bike, that’s worth a try too. Good luck!
 
Calcoaster said:
Too bad about your knee pain. If the Q factor really is the culprit, are your cleats moved as far outbound (bringing feet inward) as possible but still allowing pedaling without rubbing your feet on the cranks? And if you haven’t had a thorough fit done on this bike, that’s worth a try too. Good luck!
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Thanks.. I *might * be able to get a couple more mm on the left (which, come to think of it, is actually the worst knee), but looking at the cranks, it appears the right one has made contact a few times already, so that can't go any closer. Maybe I will try moving the left cleat slightly further out.. thanks - great suggestion!
 
mtnroads said:
Thanks.. I *might * be able to get a couple more mm on the left (which, come to think of it, is actually the worst knee), but looking at the cranks, it appears the right one has made contact a few times already, so that can't go any closer. Maybe I will try moving the left cleat slightly further out.. thanks - great suggestion!
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Just thought, backed up by scant knowledge, but have you matched the saddle position (relative to cranks) of your painless bikes? Have you tried switching the saddle with one from your other bikes?
 
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I have matched those dimensions as best I can, thanks, but not saddle, although they look similar. I am however very sensitive to Q-factor, or stance width due to the nature of my almost nonexistent knee cartilage and biomechanics. Had to give up the MTB in 2015 after a severe knee injury that landed me on crutches after I did too much climbing in one day. It had a pretty standard 175mm Q-factor, and that's when I figured out what was going on, since I had done the climb on my road bike without issue. SInce then it's been road bikes only - 145-150mm. One reason I bought the new Domane was because it is the narrowest of the mid-drive e-bikes, at 163mm. But it may still be too wide for me. I will see if the left cleat adjustment helps at all, I got maybe 2-3mm so I'm not expecting a miracle, but you never know.

Thank you for the suggestion.
 
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I had Trek Powerfly HT and no matter what I did still gave me knee issues, had same issue with another manual MTB. The only solution was new bike in both cases, different brands. My lastest ebike is same model as wife's, did few 100kms on her medium frame with no issues so bought L frame version.
The other thing to try is increasing your flexibility and muscle strength, do yoga and weights. Cycling doesn't make for most balanced leg muscles.
 
mtnroads said:
I have matched those dimensions as best I can, thanks, but not saddle, although they look similar. I am however very sensitive to Q-factor, or stance width due to the nature of my almost nonexistent knee cartilage and biomechanics. Had to give up the MTB in 2015 after a severe knee injury that landed me on crutches after I did too much climbing in one day. It had a pretty standard 175mm Q-factor, and that's when I figured out what was going on, since I had done the climb on my road bike without issue. SInce then it's been road bikes only - 145-150mm. One reason I bought the new Domane was because it is the narrowest of the mid-drive e-bikes, at 163mm. But it may still be too wide for me. I will see if the left cleat adjustment helps at all, I got maybe 2-3mm so I'm not expecting a miracle, but you never know.

Thank you for the suggestion.
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Any progress/improvement?

Your best bet is likely to be a good fitting as Calcoaster suggests. Not the bike shop variety, but from a professional fitter with bio-mechanical expertise, like the guy in the attached clip, if you can get a hold of one within your reach. It's an expense, but the Domane+ is a significant investment that ought to serve you better.

 
Thanks guys - sorry for the delayed reply - it has taken time to confirm what's going on because I get pain when I ride it that takes a few days to subside. I have the exact problem of the guy in that video - I need a narrower pedal stance, not wider, and there's no way to get it - my feet are almost brushing the cranks now (fairly straight, not pointed outward). Of course I already have bad knees, and I can almost feel the extra width as I ride, especially after about 10 miles. Crazy. It's only 18mm (3/4"), but I had the same issue on my MTB. Just FYI - in early spring I was riding 300-400 mi/mo on my three other road bikes without issues.

Last Saturday I rode it for 12 miles and had to layoff for several days. Yesterday, after waiting a few days, I took my gravel bike out for 15 miles and it felt great and I feel fine today. No pain or stiffness. Same when I rode my Waterford for 23 mi a couple weeks ago. No pain. Both those bikes have traditional narrow road cranks. I can come to no other conclusion than the slightly wider crank width on this bike just doesn't work for me, within the repetitive nature of pedaling. With the narrowest Q for an e-road bike, I was sure I would be fine, but apparently not. At this point I am going to sell it and move on :(

I have listed it locally, and will put an ad on this site as well, in case someone wants one (54 cm) at a good price. Thanks, appreciate all your insights.
 
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Quite understandable. Riding should be enjoyable, not punishing.
I would imagine hub motor ebikes would come with narrower q factors. Have you tried the Domane+ AL5 or looked into carbon frames featuring the Mahle x20 and others? I haven't kept up with those but expect that they are also undergoing refinement, likely discussed in associated forums. Do come back to let us know what worked for you.
 
Hi guys,
I would like to know if anyone in this group is using the TQ range extender, and what has been your experience. I will appreciate your comments
 
rdv said:
Quite understandable. Riding should be enjoyable, not punishing.
I would imagine hub motor ebikes would come with narrower q factors. Have you tried the Domane+ AL5 or looked into carbon frames featuring the Mahle x20 and others? I haven't kept up with those but expect that they are also undergoing refinement, likely discussed in associated forums. Do come back to let us know what worked for you.
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Rob, you are correct. I have an Orbea Gain with a rear hub motor. The front end is standard Shimano or Sram (in my case Shimano 105).
 
mtnroads said:
Fantastic to know that. I guess I never considered that option (rear hub motor). I tend to go for the latest and greatest :(
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Depending on what you are looking for in an E bike, hub motors may be the latest and greatest.

For me, the hub motor Stromer bikes cannot be topped for my criteria:
1. Has to feel natural!! I have never ridden an Ebike that feels as natural as the Stromer (hub drive) series. Just that Your legs now are on steroids.
2.For @mtnroads …. Stromer and hubs must have a small Q factor with no wide mid motor and single chainring……
3. RANGE. Efficient for high speed cruising. Nothing is more efficient for that than a direct drive hub motor. I have gone 66 miles using only 41% of battery at almost 19 mph pace.
Mid drive gang tout their “efficiency “ cuz they can climb better but that is ultra high torque capability, not efficiency. Power is lost thru every connection on mid drives, motor to belt or gears, thru the chain and rear gears and finally to the wheel…… Hub: motor to wheel…..
4. Quiet: quiet at speed . Again, never ridden any mid or hub as quiet as rear hub Stromer.
Every hub I have ridden gets louder as you go faster. Are there now quiet high mph mids?

You should at least check out the hub drive world.
Note: if I was getting a E mtn bike, it would be mid drive for that highest torque output.
 
Grinding Noise

What seemed perfect ceased to be so. My odometer has crossed the 1000 km mark, and in the last three rides, a terrifying noise started coming from the TQ50 motor of my 2023 Domane+ SLR. For a moment, I thought some mechanism inside the engine was being ground because it was an abnormal noise I had never heard before. After my initial terror subsided a bit and and thinking about my return home, I began to notice that this deafening noise occurred under certain circumstances, but most of the time or when the motor was in OFF mode, it did not happen. I found that the grinding noise was correlated with my cadence, the power from both me and the motor, and the rear gear ratio. The noise didn't occur when I was climbing a hill, applying power to the pedals. It happens when you're on a flat slope, stop pedaling for a moment, and then start rolling again. When you begin pedaling again, there seems to be a kind of desynchronization between the motor and the pedal axle, and the grinding noise appears. It's as if there are unsuccessful attempts to engage the motor with the transmission axle. During these moments, I observe that I'm delivering some power, I'm over-rotating, and the motor is delivering very little power (no more than about 10W). However, if I shift to a higher gear, reducing rotation and increasing the power delivered by the motor, the noise disappears completely. As long as the motor is delivering enough power (more than 30W, I'd say), the dreadful grinding noise doesn't occur.

Is this an intrinsic characteristic of the TQ50 motor? Is it a design flaw? Is it a software issue with motor control? Is it normal and should one simply avoid the conditions in which it occurs?

I'd like to know if anyone in this forum is experiencing the same noise.
 
AntonioAlfaro said:
Grinding Noise

What seemed perfect ceased to be so. My odometer has crossed the 1000 km mark, and in the last three rides, a terrifying noise started coming from the TQ50 motor of my 2023 Domane+ SLR. For a moment, I thought some mechanism inside the engine was being ground because it was an abnormal noise I had never heard before. After my initial terror subsided a bit and and thinking about my return home, I began to notice that this deafening noise occurred under certain circumstances, but most of the time or when the motor was in OFF mode, it did not happen. I found that the grinding noise was correlated with my cadence, the power from both me and the motor, and the rear gear ratio. The noise didn't occur when I was climbing a hill, applying power to the pedals. It happens when you're on a flat slope, stop pedaling for a moment, and then start rolling again. When you begin pedaling again, there seems to be a kind of desynchronization between the motor and the pedal axle, and the grinding noise appears. It's as if there are unsuccessful attempts to engage the motor with the transmission axle. During these moments, I observe that I'm delivering some power, I'm over-rotating, and the motor is delivering very little power (no more than about 10W). However, if I shift to a higher gear, reducing rotation and increasing the power delivered by the motor, the noise disappears completely. As long as the motor is delivering enough power (more than 30W, I'd say), the dreadful grinding noise doesn't occur.

Is this an intrinsic characteristic of the TQ50 motor? Is it a design flaw? Is it a software issue with motor control? Is it normal and should one simply avoid the conditions in which it occurs?

I'd like to know if anyone in this forum is experiencing the same noise.
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There was a thing with the lock ring getting loose, which makes a similar racket Have you checked that?
 
Jack Cox said:
There was a thing with the lock ring getting loose, which makes a similar racket Have you checked that?
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Thank you, Jack, for your timely comment. I suppose you're referring to the ring that secures the chain sprocket to the motor shaft?. I will check.
 
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