2023 Trek Domane+

[rdv]

Hello I am allowing myself to attach a first draft of a document that I have prepared to guide in the determination of the levels of assistance in an EBike. It is not a final document, as soon as I receive my Domane+ SLR6 I will finish field checking and correct it as necessary. I hope it's of your interest
I have also opened a new thread in this forum for discussions exclusively related to levels of assistance on an E Bike.

Methodology proposal to establish the assistance levels in an E Bike

Hello, allow me to share with you a first draft document that I have prepared to guide in the determination of the levels of assistance in an EBike. It is not a final document, as soon as I receive my Domane+ SLR6 I will finish field checking and correct it as necessary. If you cycle...

electricbikereview.com

Thanks for sharing your draft. Much appreciated.

The Trek App allows you to fine tune the motor output through 9 settings: Max Power, % Assist, and Pedal Response, for Eco, Mid and High. I'd be interested to see what tuning values you start out with when you first hit the road on your e-bike.

Given that pavement, weather, wind, cadence, speed, grade, nutrition, 'legs', mood, etc. fluctuate within and among rides your values may need broaden from those the workup suggests. For example, if motor assist were set at 142W max, then anything steeper than 11% would require a reduction in speed, eventually getting so slow as to undermine stability and steering control, whereas a higher max W would allow for higher speeds. And don't be surprised if the enjoyment factor starts kicking in, when you could keep putting in a solid effort, but what the heck, why not relax and enjoy the breezy tailwind feeling Eco provides.

So, I'd be interested not only in what tuning values you start out with, but what they are a week, month and 3 months later.

BTW, here's a cycling power calculator to possibly play around with.
https://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html

 

[AntonioAlfaro]

Thanks for sharing your draft. Much appreciated.

The Trek App allows you to fine tune the motor output through 9 settings: Max Power, % Assist, and Pedal Response, for Eco, Mid and High. I'd be interested to see what tuning values you start out with when you first hit the road on your e-bike.

Given that pavement, weather, wind, cadence, speed, grade, nutrition, 'legs', mood, etc. fluctuate within and among rides your values may need broaden from those the workup suggests. For example, if motor assist were set at 142W max, then anything steeper than 11% would require a reduction in speed, eventually getting so slow as to undermine stability and steering control, whereas a higher max W would allow for higher speeds. And don't be surprised if the enjoyment factor starts kicking in, when you could keep putting in a solid effort, but what the heck, why not relax and enjoy the breezy tailwind feeling Eco provides.

So, I'd be interested not only in what tuning values you start out with, but what they are a week, month and 3 months later.

BTW, here's a cycling power calculator to possibly play around with.
https://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html

thanks rdv for your inputs,
You are correct, in the TQ system there are parameters for each level of assistance. In my proposal for estimating optimal levels of assistance, we only determined the value of power per level.
I started modeling this methodology with my Orbea Gain D50, which is a rear hub motor system. It does not have a power sensor, only cadence and the assistance power per level suddenly enters the defined value and not gradually. It is for this reason that once I get my Domane+ SLR6 I have to try and fine tune it a bit.
The input values for the other two parameters (Assistance and response) to start tests will be:

ECHO
Assist = 100%
Response = 60%
MID
Assist = 37%
Response = 75%
HIGH
Assist = 200%
response = 100%

Remember that the proposed use of the assistance levels is based on the slopes, that is, as long as your route is in the 0 to 3% slope range, you can move without assistance. From 3% to 7% you change the assistance to ECO level, 7% to 11% you change to MID level and so on to MAX level if you face more than 11%. Do not forget that you have to do your part as much as you can.

PD;
Please resend your post to my new thread in this forum for discussions exclusively related to levels of assistance on an E Bike.

Methodology proposal to establish the assistance levels in an E Bike

Hello, allow me to share with you a first draft document that I have prepared to guide in the determination of the levels of assistance in an EBike. It is not a final document, as soon as I receive my Domane+ SLR6 I will finish field checking and correct it as necessary. If you cycle...

electricbikereview.com

 

[rdv]

thanks rdv for your inputs,
You are correct, in the TQ system there are parameters for each level of assistance. In my proposal for estimating optimal levels of assistance, we only determined the value of power per level.
I started modeling this methodology with my Orbea Gain D50, which is a rear hub motor system. It does not have a power sensor, only cadence and the assistance power per level suddenly enters the defined value and not gradually. It is for this reason that once I get my Domane+ SLR6 I have to try and fine tune it a bit.
The input values for the other two parameters (Assistance and response) to start tests will be:

ECHO
Assist = 100%
Response = 60%
MID
Assist = 37%
Response = 75%
HIGH
Assist = 200%
response = 100%

Remember that the proposed use of the assistance levels is based on the slopes, that is, as long as your route is in the 0 to 3% slope range, you can move without assistance. From 3% to 7% you change the assistance to ECO level, 7% to 11% you change to MID level and so on to MAX level if you face more than 11%. Do not forget that you have to do your part as much as you can.

PD;
Please resend your post to my new thread in this forum for discussions exclusively related to levels of assistance on an E Bike.

Methodology proposal to establish the assistance levels in an E Bike

Hello, allow me to share with you a first draft document that I have prepared to guide in the determination of the levels of assistance in an EBike. It is not a final document, as soon as I receive my Domane+ SLR6 I will finish field checking and correct it as necessary. If you cycle...

electricbikereview.com

I'm not too handy with posts, so answering to post 82 here, then switching to the other thread. Feel free to move this if you can.

Your Assist levels of E 100%, M 137% (right?), H 200% are sensible. If understand correctly, however, when applied applied to 104W rider contribution, but rather than delivering the set %s, the motor is constrained by the respective maxima of 70W, 106W, and 142W. (e.g. 104W x 1.37 = 192W, but held to 106W maximum, in which case 102% would work just as well).

I had similar intentions regarding grade, Null for low or very short ascents, E up to 5%, M up to 10%, H above 10%. Of course it matters how long the climb is. I now go by how I feel on any one climb, but can only do 'my part' steadily up to 100W, which means that the most I can get from the motor is 200W at 200%. Above that the chest pain says no, except for some short bursts.

The Response in the Trek app ranges from Gradual to Quick (no %). While Quick is good for starting out, it drops support just as quick if you momentarily slow or pause your pedaling, leading to unpleasant uphill lurching. It took me less than a ride to move M and H from Quick all the way back down to Gradual. E works well midway.

 

[WillShootPhotos]

The lack of a system akin to the Specialized Future Shock would steer me away from this bike. I suppose I could add a Redshift stem (assuming it would fit), but that would likely add weight. I also believe the Creo offers better range, which for me translates to using more assist when needed (hey, I’m old and broken down ).

I also found it interesting that the review mentioned noticeable drag when riding without assist. That’s a subjective comment, so I’m not sure it would be worse than the Creo, but I’d certainly want a test ride to decide for myself. Is it possible that this drag is why it offers less range than the Creo?

Bottom line is that while this looks like a decent bike, and I’d love to try one out just for kicks, I don’t see any compelling reason to replace my Creo.

Interesting about the "noticeable drag" comment...

I've owned my Domane+ SLR7 (Ultegra 2x setup) for about a week now, have over 150 or so miles on it, and there isn't any "drag" that I've noticed.

You stop pedaling, the chain stops moving, you're on a regular bicycle rear wheel... the only resistance will be in the rear freehub body and it is the same one as is in any normal set of wheels - at least it sounds exactly like my Aeolus Pro 37 wheelset that came on my "regular" 2021 Domane SLR. I've been on several descents and the speeds have been the same (if not perhaps a *bit* faster, with the extra 8 lbs of "weight watts")

There is a curious sensation that does sort of "feel" like it might be drag when you stop pedaling - but that is just the removal of the power input, so you've lost that "hand on the small of your back (well, frame really)" feeling and you stop accelerating - but (per above) I'm at a complete loss as to how the motor could be adding any drag into the system when the cranks are not moving.

- Will

 

[Stefan Mikes]

but that is just the removal of the power input, so you've lost that "hand on the small of your back (well, frame really)" feeling and you stop accelerating

True words!

 

[WillShootPhotos]

Your Assist levels of E 100%, M 137% (right?), H 200% are sensible. If understand correctly, however, when applied applied to 104W rider contribution, but rather than delivering the set %s, the motor is constrained by the respective maxima of 70W, 106W, and 142W. (e.g. 104W x 1.37 = 192W, but held to 106W maximum, in which case 102% would work just as well).

My understanding of the constraints isn't from the % boost set, but to the max that is set. So, if I've a config at 50% and 100 W max boost, if I ride at 100W, I'll get a net of 150W (50% of my 100W input)... if I do 200W, still getting full boost of 100W to net 300W total; only when I get to say 400W input, I'll only get 25% back out because I've exceeded the max output of 100W.

So - on full beans of 200% - it'll depend on what the "max" is set for that profile - if it is 300, then you could get up to a total of 600W combined...

- Will

 

[WillShootPhotos]

Anyone on this thread who rides a SLR+ have a problem with their chain falling off (front)?
I know two people who recently bought one and both are having problems with their chain falling off when going from the small to big ring in the front.
So far the bike shop hasn't been able to fix the problem. Both bikes are Di2 Ultegra.

I've not had that problem, but I've only had the bike for about a week - just under 200 miles in so far. Not sure why there would be an inability to get the front derailleur dialed in appropriately. I've wrenched on bikes in bike shops over the years to support my habit, and haven't had an issue dialing a front der in.

There can be so many factors that contribute to a dropped chain, especially in rough terrain. But if the plate is parallel to the chainring, and the limits/settings are correct, there shouldn't be an issue... (famous last words)

The x-factor here may be the "non Shimano" front chainrings. The pins and lifts as well as the ramping to the teeth contributes greatly to the smoothness of the upshift. That said, I've been running a non "approved" combo on my "traditional" (sorry TREK - I refuse to call it an 'acoustic' bike! ) Domane SLR 7... I'm running a 52/34... it helps me with the long steep climbs here in the Vegas area, while also having the ability to not get spun out on the long 3% ish descents... but I digress. Shimano says to only use the 50/34 or 52/36 because of the aforementioned ramps/pins/profiles. I've only had very infrequent slight hesitations in my upshifts. I do have a 52 tooth Praxis chainring on the way, and will soon have the 52/34 combo again... curious to see how that rides.

 

[rdv]

My understanding of the constraints isn't from the % boost set, but to the max that is set. So, if I've a config at 50% and 100 W max boost, if I ride at 100W, I'll get a net of 150W (50% of my 100W input)... if I do 200W, still getting full boost of 100W to net 300W total; only when I get to say 400W input, I'll only get 25% back out because I've exceeded the max output of 100W.

So - on full beans of 200% - it'll depend on what the "max" is set for that profile - if it is 300, then you could get up to a total of 600W combined...

- Will

Agree with your example values, though both control - the 50% assist up to 200W of rider input, the 100W max boost at higher inputs.

I'd be interested in knowing how long the nominal 250W TQ HPR50 motor can sustain the max 300W output, its power curves, and how it self protects against overstress, among aspects. TQ seems mighty stingy with specifics that go beyond marketing blurb. Anyone come across insightful information?

 

[WillShootPhotos]

Agree with your example values, though both control - the 50% assist up to 200W of rider input, the 100W max boost at higher inputs.

I'd be interested in knowing how long the nominal 250W TQ HPR50 motor can sustain the max 300W output, its power curves, and how it self protects against overstress, among aspects. TQ seems mighty stingy with specifics that go beyond marketing blurb. Anyone come across insightful information?

Not sure I've seen this sort of info on any other motor system - but I'll freely admit that I've not dug into the deets looking for this either; so understand that I'm not at all saying this isn't a good thing to look into about a motor system at all... I've just not see this sort of info on any eBike's pages from the bike builders who produce the bikes.

That said, I can provide some anecdotal evidence from my own usage here in Las Vegas over the past week or so.

First up, I'm moderately fit and have been dealing with some health issues that have required me to pull back on max HR... so I can't keep up w/ the folks I used to ride with regularly. So my e-bike purchase was a way to keep up with the Jonses and to get back to the pack.

I've done some longer efforts, w/ the Domane+ in the "stock" highest support mode. I think this ends up being 150% of input power, to a max of 300W of support from the motor. So if I hit 200W, the bike will support w/ the max output of 300W

When it is cooler out there, I can do some moderate efforts of 200W for 10-15 min of time; but having to pull back on HR, I've not seen that sort of sustained power in a while, but can do about 180+ for a 30 min local climb through Red Rock scenic loop. So, at least with the way the TQ motor is implemented by TREK (and I'm pretty sure, the other folks who use it) you've got to be able to sustain a pretty hard input to get sustained upper power out of it. Maybe I'll tweak the "max" mode and will push it to 200% support and max 300W of power and will go do that RR climb. Those settings should let me hit 150W for the duration of the climb, allowing the motor to support w/ another 300W... should be "fun"

The other day I got delayed and got on the bike later than I wanted to, so the "back" of my spin for a coffee, was in 100 degrees (air) who knows what, with the sun - think my Garmin was showing 107+. I put it into the highest mode and was able to get back home (uphill, 2-3% grade average, about 10 miles) without any sort of overheat warning... I was able to get a fairly steady 8+ mile segment broken out and the motor averaged about 150W for 25 minutes. With those temps, I am pretty happy w/ the output.

Just a bit of info to say that the motor seems to hold up well in the heat and under some consistent load.

More info as I get more saddle time. 434 miles logged so far... and loving it!

 

[AntonioAlfaro]

Not sure I've seen this sort of info on any other motor system - but I'll freely admit that I've not dug into the deets looking for this either; so understand that I'm not at all saying this isn't a good thing to look into about a motor system at all... I've just not see this sort of info on any eBike's pages from the bike builders who produce the bikes.

That said, I can provide some anecdotal evidence from my own usage here in Las Vegas over the past week or so.

First up, I'm moderately fit and have been dealing with some health issues that have required me to pull back on max HR... so I can't keep up w/ the folks I used to ride with regularly. So my e-bike purchase was a way to keep up with the Jonses and to get back to the pack.

I've done some longer efforts, w/ the Domane+ in the "stock" highest support mode. I think this ends up being 150% of input power, to a max of 300W of support from the motor. So if I hit 200W, the bike will support w/ the max output of 300W

When it is cooler out there, I can do some moderate efforts of 200W for 10-15 min of time; but having to pull back on HR, I've not seen that sort of sustained power in a while, but can do about 180+ for a 30 min local climb through Red Rock scenic loop. So, at least with the way the TQ motor is implemented by TREK (and I'm pretty sure, the other folks who use it) you've got to be able to sustain a pretty hard input to get sustained upper power out of it. Maybe I'll tweak the "max" mode and will push it to 200% support and max 300W of power and will go do that RR climb. Those settings should let me hit 150W for the duration of the climb, allowing the motor to support w/ another 300W... should be "fun"

The other day I got delayed and got on the bike later than I wanted to, so the "back" of my spin for a coffee, was in 100 degrees (air) who knows what, with the sun - think my Garmin was showing 107+. I put it into the highest mode and was able to get back home (uphill, 2-3% grade average, about 10 miles) without any sort of overheat warning... I was able to get a fairly steady 8+ mile segment broken out and the motor averaged about 150W for 25 minutes. With those temps, I am pretty happy w/ the output.

Just a bit of info to say that the motor seems to hold up well in the heat and under some consistent load.

More info as I get more saddle time. 434 miles logged so far... and loving it!

Thanks for the information. I would like to know if you are recording your rides with the TreK app.

 

[WillShootPhotos]

Thanks for the information. I would like to know if you are recording your rides with the TreK app.

Some yes, some no... having been (and still being) a habitual Garmin user, I'm not in the habit of recording from my phone. Also, other than an "Ave Motor Power" and "Ave Rider Power" summary numbers, you can't really look at charts of either power over time. The data is in the GPX file - but I've not delved down that rabbit hole yet... I did use the TREK app to record my coffee run, I've attached the summary info. Oh, and the app appears to calculate avg speed from total time, not moving time - even though it shows moving time on the summary screen...

 

[AntonioAlfaro]

Allow me to share data from my first ride in Domane+ SLR6. For many years I have used the Orbea Gain D50 which is a first generation ebike based on the Mahle X35, today I have been really impressed with the performance and comfort of the Domane+.
Prior to this first outing, I used a Wahoo Smart trainer to simulate different slopes and after multiple adjustments I was ready to hit the streets.
The assist settings are based on my 140W FTP and the different assist ranges are based on % slopes.

 

[Captain Slow]

Antonio, if you wouldn't mind sharing your impressions of the Domane+ vs the Orbea Gain once you've had more time on the Domane+ I'd really appreciate it as I'm interested in the Domane+.

I had a Creo, which was nice but I wanted to buy a nice set of carbon wheels and given the goofy spacing of the Creo I wasn't willing to drop big money on a set of wheels that could only be used on the Creo. That and I found on the road I really like a 2X drivetrain a lot more than 1X. So the Creo is gone and I'm contemplating a Domane+ in the near future. One issue I find is that in Canada they don't sell the Domane+ SLR6 and you have to buy the 7.

Trek just released an aluminum Fuel EXe so perhaps they'll do the same with the Domane+ which would be a more affordable model.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I can't, for the life of me, understand Trek's thinking when they decided what model they'd bring into Canada. Bikes are more expensive in Canada, when compared to the US, so why in the world would they only bring in the more expensive model?
I ride with two people who recently purchased Domane+ bikes and both are having some issues with the front derailleur. Seems Trek is unable to figure out why, when shifting from the small to large ring, the derailleur allows the chain to move too far outwards allowing the chain to fall off. One owner has it happen occasionally, while the other has it happen at least once every time he goes for a ride. Trek has replaced the Ultegra front derailleur with a 105 Di2 model (which, unlike the Ultegra model it can be manually adjusted) and so far (90km of riding) it has solved the problem.
Trek also brought in another Domane+ for him to ride while they take his bike and try and figure out what's happening with the Ultregra front derailleur.
I did take his bike for a very short ride today and was really impressed, but boy-oh-boy is this bike expensive in Canada.

 

[WillShootPhotos]

I can't, for the life of me, understand Trek's thinking when they decided what model they'd bring into Canada. Bikes are more expensive in Canada, when compared to the US, so why in the world would they only bring in the more expensive model?
I ride with two people who recently purchased Domane+ bikes and both are having some issues with the front derailleur. Seems Trek is unable to figure out why, when shifting from the small to large ring, the derailleur allows the chain to move too far outwards allowing the chain to fall off. One owner has it happen occasionally, while the other has it happen at least once every time he goes for a ride. Trek has replaced the Ultegra front derailleur with a 105 Di2 model (which, unlike the Ultegra model it can be manually adjusted) and so far (90km of riding) it has solved the problem.
Trek also brought in another Domane+ for him to ride while they take his bike and try and figure out what's happening with the Ultregra front derailleur.
I did take his bike for a very short ride today and was really impressed, but boy-oh-boy is this bike expensive in Canada.

DB - you have my curiosity piqued - which model does TREK offer that isn't avail in Canada?

On the front derailleur issue, the front Ultegra Di2 12 speed derailleur *is* adjustable. It is part of the setup process to step through adjusting the front mech outer and inner limits with the chain on the big and small sprockets while at extremes on the back cassette. So I'm not sure how the 105 adjustment is any different. (I've been a professional bike shop mechanic over the years to support my habit - I may not be as up to speed on 105 Di2 as I've not worked with it, but I do have the 12 Speed Ultegra on my bike and have another 300 miles on it since purchase (up to just under 500 miles so far). I know one other person here in my area who has about 200 miles on their new D+ SLR, and they've also had zero issues to date.

My method for adjusting the front derailleur is via the E-Tube app from Shimano. Once paired to the bike; you can connect, go into "maintenance" mode, tap the "front" row in the "Derailleur adjustment" section, and the app will step you through the 6 steps. With the bike in a work-stand, it will tell you when to spin the cranks and it will shift the front and rear mech to each of the needed combinations, coach you on how to adjust (it shows an image of the inner or outer plate and the distance to the chain edge), allow you to make the adjustment by tapping buttons in the app, and then tapping "next" to get to the next step. I think this is also doable by using just the button on the rear derailleur if you don't have the app, so long as you have the front/rear positioned correctly, you can adjust the front mech for each setting - but I've always used the free app from Shimano.

Curiously enough - I've gone "non standard" and am still not having issues.

I commented before about how the non Shimano chain rings may affect shifting, but I've since modified my front chainring setup to match my previous "standard" 2021 Domane SLR config - mixing up front chainring sizes to get a broader range. Shimano only "approves" of 50/34 (compact), 52/36 (semi-compact) and 53/39 (standard) combos. They machine the pins/ramps/teeth to give optimal up and down shifting. Where I live we have long steep climbs so I love the 34 smallest ring, but also have long gradual descents of only 2-3 percent where the folks I ride with would pull away from me on the 50T big ring... having 2 more toofers has helped me stay in w/ the group.

That said - I ended up getting a 52T big ring that matches the spec of the 50/34 Praxis rings that came on the Domane+ SLR7, I've run that now for about 250 miles with zero mis-shifts. I've just had the same experience I had with the Shimano non standard rings on my standard Domane SLR - an occasional (maybe 1 in 15 or so) slow shift from small to big ring...

Hoping your friends can get their front mech issue sorted!

 

[WillShootPhotos]

Allow me to share data from my first ride in Domane+ SLR6. For many years I have used the Orbea Gain D50 which is a first generation ebike based on the Mahle X35, today I have been really impressed with the performance and comfort of the Domane+.
Prior to this first outing, I used a Wahoo Smart trainer to simulate different slopes and after multiple adjustments I was ready to hit the streets.
The assist settings are based on my 140W FTP and the different assist ranges are based on % slopes.

Sounds like a great first ride!!!

 

[AntonioAlfaro]

Sounds like a great first ride!!!

Yeah. It really was. Next week I will do 3 new tours to finish verifying that I am not dreaming. I will keep you informed

 

[Deacon Blues]

DB - you have my curiosity piqued - which model does TREK offer that isn't avail in Canada?

On the front derailleur issue, the front Ultegra Di2 12 speed derailleur *is* adjustable. It is part of the setup process to step through adjusting the front mech outer and inner limits with the chain on the big and small sprockets while at extremes on the back cassette. So I'm not sure how the 105 adjustment is any different. (I've been a professional bike shop mechanic over the years to support my habit - I may not be as up to speed on 105 Di2 as I've not worked with it, but I do have the 12 Speed Ultegra on my bike and have another 300 miles on it since purchase (up to just under 500 miles so far). I know one other person here in my area who has about 200 miles on their new D+ SLR, and they've also had zero issues to date.

My method for adjusting the front derailleur is via the E-Tube app from Shimano. Once paired to the bike; you can connect, go into "maintenance" mode, tap the "front" row in the "Derailleur adjustment" section, and the app will step you through the 6 steps. With the bike in a work-stand, it will tell you when to spin the cranks and it will shift the front and rear mech to each of the needed combinations, coach you on how to adjust (it shows an image of the inner or outer plate and the distance to the chain edge), allow you to make the adjustment by tapping buttons in the app, and then tapping "next" to get to the next step. I think this is also doable by using just the button on the rear derailleur if you don't have the app, so long as you have the front/rear positioned correctly, you can adjust the front mech for each setting - but I've always used the free app from Shimano.

Curiously enough - I've gone "non standard" and am still not having issues.

I commented before about how the non Shimano chain rings may affect shifting, but I've since modified my front chainring setup to match my previous "standard" 2021 Domane SLR config - mixing up front chainring sizes to get a broader range. Shimano only "approves" of 50/34 (compact), 52/36 (semi-compact) and 53/39 (standard) combos. They machine the pins/ramps/teeth to give optimal up and down shifting. Where I live we have long steep climbs so I love the 34 smallest ring, but also have long gradual descents of only 2-3 percent where the folks I ride with would pull away from me on the 50T big ring... having 2 more toofers has helped me stay in w/ the group.

That said - I ended up getting a 52T big ring that matches the spec of the 50/34 Praxis rings that came on the Domane+ SLR7, I've run that now for about 250 miles with zero mis-shifts. I've just had the same experience I had with the Shimano non standard rings on my standard Domane SLR - an occasional (maybe 1 in 15 or so) slow shift from small to big ring...

Hoping your friends can get their front mech issue sorted!

Trek isn't offering the SLR6 in Canada.
I'm not sure what's going on with the chain dropping problem. Trek recommended the shop switch the front derailleur and that seems to have worked/helped.

 

[Captain Slow]

Trek isn't offering the SLR6 in Canada.
I'm not sure what's going on with the chain dropping problem. Trek recommended the shop switch the front derailleur and that seems to have worked/helped.

With the aluminum Fuel EXe being introduced I'm hoping Trek will offer a Domane+ AL5 i.e. aluminum frame and 105. That should bring the price down by several thousand. The $13k price of the Domane+ SLR7 in Canada is quite a bit more than I'm willing to pay.

If an aluminum Domane+ competes with the aluminum Creo then I'd hope to see one in the $7k - $8k range. At least that's my hope.

 

[Deacon Blues]

When I first looked at the Domane+ I compared its price to the Scott Solace and Orbea Gain X20. The Solace and Gain can be had for around $10,000 Can, which, in my opinion, makes them a much better bang-for-the-buck than the Domane+ SLR7. Components wise, all three are in the same ball park.
In a perfect world I'd be able to test ride all three back-to-back, but that isn't going to happen.