2023 Trek Domane+

When I first looked at the Domane+ I compared its price to the Scott Solace and Orbea Gain X20. The Solace and Gain can be had for around $10,000 Can, which, in my opinion, makes them a much better bang-for-the-buck than the Domane+ SLR7. Components wise, all three are in the same ball park.
In a perfect world I'd be able to test ride all three back-to-back, but that isn't going to happen.
I'm not as familiar w/ the Solace, but do love the endurance geometry of the TREK and have been loving the iso-speed plush ride on Domanes since they were initially launched. I've had 2 "regular" and now one electric Domane. Put almost 30,000 miles on my first before I got the 2021 SLR, and only went electric due to some health issues...
 
I'd be interested in knowing how long the nominal 250W TQ HPR50 motor can sustain the max 300W output, its power curves, and how it self protects against overstress, among aspects. TQ seems mighty stingy with specifics that go beyond marketing blurb. Anyone come across insightful information?
So, I played around a bit with the max assist mode at the end of a very hot ride yesterday. I tweaked the max assist to provide 200% boost to a max power of 300W. I was about 2.5 hours into a 3 hour total ride, so the bike was pretty toasty.

With ambient air temps around 103F and my Garmin showing 112F, I headed for a local climb called Villa Ridge. 3.3 miles averaging 3.4% grade - but that's a bit deceptive as it starts easy and just continues to ramp up as you get up the climb - with the end being a solid stretch of 8-9%

Off I spun, trying to stay around 150W to the TQ would be trying to be at its max of 300W. I crawled through the GPX file from the TREK app and compared it against the power recorded by my Garmin from my Garmin Vector 2 power pedals.

Shortest version:
Time: 10:35
Avg Speed: 18.9 mph
TREK App Motor Power Average: 279W
TREK App Human wattage: 236W* <-- 😂🤣😁😎
Garmin reading of human wattage: 156W <-- much more believable
Garmin reading of temp during the climb: Max: 113F Avg: 109 F
* In the TREK TQ FAQ it does say that the input power by the rider number is NOT accurate, that if you want to train using power numbers, to get a pedal based power meter of some sort.

All in all, I'm pretty darn impressed by how the bike held up in the heat. I've had a few rides where I've plugged it in to charge when I've finished and the bike wouldn't charge due to the battery being too hot - so I sort of wondered if the system would brick on me part way up the climb... or somewhere after (I still had another 6 or 7 miles, and a few more long climbs too), but it didn't.

That said, a friend joined me who is heavier than I am who also has a D+ SLR7... he said his conked out with a "too hot" code on the TQ display a mile or two before he got to his place. But he had no issue pedaling the bike the rest of the way home. He didn't do the big climb with me, he peeled off to an easier climb, but the heat did hit the limit and stopped his assist.

More as I know it if folks are interested.

- Will
 
Agree with your example values, though both control - the 50% assist up to 200W of rider input, the 100W max boost at higher inputs.

I'd be interested in knowing how long the nominal 250W TQ HPR50 motor can sustain the max 300W output, its power curves, and how it self protects against overstress, among aspects. TQ seems mighty stingy with specifics that go beyond marketing blurb. Anyone come across insightful information?
@rdv - dug a bit deeper into the data today (the post above was actually ready Sun evening, but seems I didn't click "Post Reply" till a few minutes ago... d'oh!

Since the TREK "human" power numbers were a bit *cough* overstated *cough cough* - I adjusted them down so that the avg from TREK (after adjustment) matched the average I saw from the strava segment for this part of the climb... I plotted that against the TQ Power numbers - and threw in cadence for kicks and grins.

This was "full" support mode, set for 200% and 300W max - so 150+ from me (blue) should have seen a steady(ish) 300 from the TQ (orange). Temps (according to my Garmin) were 113F max and 109 avg for this 10 min or so. This was at about 2.5 hours into a toasty 3 hour ride. So the bike was pretty well and thoroughly heat soaked by now.

image (3).png


It looks like the heat *did* get to the TQ motor, and it looks like it started to pull back on max supportable wattage as the climb went on... you can see where it stayed around 300W till about six and a half minutes in, then it drops to 275, 250 for a bit, back up to 275 again, before it seems to level out at 250 for most of the rest of the climb, tapering of again (perhaps) to 225 just before the end.

Nice to see the TQ looking after itself...

I'll keep diggin' in the data... more as I know it (iffin there is interest).

- Will
 
@rdv - dug a bit deeper into the data today (the post above was actually ready Sun evening, but seems I didn't click "Post Reply" till a few minutes ago... d'oh!

Since the TREK "human" power numbers were a bit *cough* overstated *cough cough* - I adjusted them down so that the avg from TREK (after adjustment) matched the average I saw from the strava segment for this part of the climb... I plotted that against the TQ Power numbers - and threw in cadence for kicks and grins.

This was "full" support mode, set for 200% and 300W max - so 150+ from me (blue) should have seen a steady(ish) 300 from the TQ (orange). Temps (according to my Garmin) were 113F max and 109 avg for this 10 min or so. This was at about 2.5 hours into a toasty 3 hour ride. So the bike was pretty well and thoroughly heat soaked by now.

View attachment 158450

It looks like the heat *did* get to the TQ motor, and it looks like it started to pull back on max supportable wattage as the climb went on... you can see where it stayed around 300W till about six and a half minutes in, then it drops to 275, 250 for a bit, back up to 275 again, before it seems to level out at 250 for most of the rest of the climb, tapering of again (perhaps) to 225 just before the end.

Nice to see the TQ looking after itself...

I'll keep diggin' in the data... more as I know it (iffin there is interest).

- Will
Hi Will, thanks for the information.
Today was my second ride on the Domane+SLR6 and by circumstance I dig into the GPX file generated by the TREK app. Unfortunately there is only geolocation data. I wonder if there is some configuration in the app that is jumping me?
If I am correct, the information you show in the graphs is extracted from the GPX file of the Trek app.
I will appreciate your comments
Antonio
 
@rdv - dug a bit deeper into the data today (the post above was actually ready Sun evening, but seems I didn't click "Post Reply" till a few minutes ago... d'oh!

Since the TREK "human" power numbers were a bit *cough* overstated *cough cough* - I adjusted them down so that the avg from TREK (after adjustment) matched the average I saw from the strava segment for this part of the climb... I plotted that against the TQ Power numbers - and threw in cadence for kicks and grins.

This was "full" support mode, set for 200% and 300W max - so 150+ from me (blue) should have seen a steady(ish) 300 from the TQ (orange). Temps (according to my Garmin) were 113F max and 109 avg for this 10 min or so. This was at about 2.5 hours into a toasty 3 hour ride. So the bike was pretty well and thoroughly heat soaked by now.

View attachment 158450

It looks like the heat *did* get to the TQ motor, and it looks like it started to pull back on max supportable wattage as the climb went on... you can see where it stayed around 300W till about six and a half minutes in, then it drops to 275, 250 for a bit, back up to 275 again, before it seems to level out at 250 for most of the rest of the climb, tapering of again (perhaps) to 225 just before the end.

Nice to see the TQ looking after itself...

I'll keep diggin' in the data... more as I know it (iffin there is interest).

- Will
Great information. Much appreciated. It's bringing peak and nominal power into real world focus.
300W peak power for 6+ minutes on a scorching day seems pretty good. I was thinking it might keep it up for about 10 minutes on a cooler day, and it seems to be be within striking range. Continuing at 250W is not too shabby.
And yes, very reassuring that the motor protections kicked in.
Rob
 
@rdv - dug a bit deeper into the data today (the post above was actually ready Sun evening, but seems I didn't click "Post Reply" till a few minutes ago... d'oh!

Since the TREK "human" power numbers were a bit *cough* overstated *cough cough* - I adjusted them down so that the avg from TREK (after adjustment) matched the average I saw from the strava segment for this part of the climb... I plotted that against the TQ Power numbers - and threw in cadence for kicks and grins.

This was "full" support mode, set for 200% and 300W max - so 150+ from me (blue) should have seen a steady(ish) 300 from the TQ (orange). Temps (according to my Garmin) were 113F max and 109 avg for this 10 min or so. This was at about 2.5 hours into a toasty 3 hour ride. So the bike was pretty well and thoroughly heat soaked by now.

View attachment 158450

It looks like the heat *did* get to the TQ motor, and it looks like it started to pull back on max supportable wattage as the climb went on... you can see where it stayed around 300W till about six and a half minutes in, then it drops to 275, 250 for a bit, back up to 275 again, before it seems to level out at 250 for most of the rest of the climb, tapering of again (perhaps) to 225 just before the end.

Nice to see the TQ looking after itself...

I'll keep diggin' in the data... more as I know it (iffin there is interest).

- Will
Thanks for posting your data here, I’m interested in how the TQ system works and your experiment has answered some of my questions. So your adjusted rider input must come from your power pedals? It looks like Trek’s rider power is 50% or so high, at least in this case. I’ve read others post on an emt bike forum say their trek TQ equipped bikes read 20% or so lower than their pedals show.

I wonder if setting a lower maximum power or different power delivery (not sure what that third parameter in the app is called) would change the accuracy.

And since your test maxed the motor power with anything over 150 watts, it’s not clear if the TQ motor would have output the same 300 watts if you had kept your input down to the TQ’s display reading of 150 watts, which would be more like 100 “real” rider watts.

With your graph of the motor power I assume the app’s gpx file shows continuous data (like second-by-second?) from a ride. I was told that the app only displays motor power in real time and doesn’t record it for reviewing later. If you found a way to see that data, that’s good to know.

Thanks again for posting your findings!
 
Hi Will, thanks for the information.
Today was my second ride on the Domane+SLR6 and by circumstance I dig into the GPX file generated by the TREK app. Unfortunately there is only geolocation data. I wonder if there is some configuration in the app that is jumping me?
If I am correct, the information you show in the graphs is extracted from the GPX file of the Trek app.
I will appreciate your comments
Antonio
@AntonioAlfaro - Not sure why you wouldn't see all the data unless your converter is only grabbing the main data in the nodes. There is also "extension" data for each "node" in the file - those extensions have all the other parameters. The gpx file is nothing but XML w/ nodes that look like this: Note the "extensions" section that may have been ignored by your converter

Code:
    <trkpt lat="36.078918" lon="-115.320503">
        <ele>866.311523</ele>
        <time>2023-07-07T16:47:47Z</time>
        <extensions>
            <distance>11911.881739</distance>
            <speed>10.166667</speed>
            <course>169</course>
            <acceleration>0.000000</acceleration>
            <calories>0.171117</calories>
            <speed_from_sensor>true</speed_from_sensor>
            <cadence>93</cadence>
            <ebike_mode>1</ebike_mode>
            <ebike_battery>92</ebike_battery>
            <power>184.000000</power>
            <motor_power>78</motor_power>
        </extensions>
    </trkpt>

I went to history in the TREK App, found the ride, tapped it to see the summary, then tapped the "up ward pointing arrow" button in the top right corner. That took me to a "share" page. From there, I chose the "Share to device" option. I just used GMail to mail it to myself.

From there, I just downloaded it to my computer (I use a PC) and then just used a web based "XML > CSV" file converter (I used This One). That allowed me to download the CSV file that I opened in Excel.

Hope this helps!

- Will
 
Thanks for posting your data here, I’m interested in how the TQ system works and your experiment has answered some of my questions. So your adjusted rider input must come from your power pedals? It looks like Trek’s rider power is 50% or so high, at least in this case. I’ve read others post on an emt bike forum say their trek TQ equipped bikes read 20% or so lower than their pedals show.

I wonder if setting a lower maximum power or different power delivery (not sure what that third parameter in the app is called) would change the accuracy.

And since your test maxed the motor power with anything over 150 watts, it’s not clear if the TQ motor would have output the same 300 watts if you had kept your input down to the TQ’s display reading of 150 watts, which would be more like 100 “real” rider watts.

With your graph of the motor power I assume the app’s gpx file shows continuous data (like second-by-second?) from a ride. I was told that the app only displays motor power in real time and doesn’t record it for reviewing later. If you found a way to see that data, that’s good to know.

Thanks again for posting your findings!
@Calcoaster - you're welcome!

The adjusted rider input was my own "maths" to convert the number from the TREK file to match what my Garmin said. Not knowing how to easily align data from my garmin activity file and the TREK gpx file, I went "lazy but hopefully close enough" by just taking the section of data, summing the "human" input power number and dividing by the number of entries. I compared that average to the same one from Garmin/Strava - and came up with 66.1% as a factor to reduce TREK to match Garmin... I then just multiplied each value by 0.661 and used that in my chart...

Agreed - on your next two thoughts - I'm not sure, and would need to come up with some other segments where I knew what I was aiming for power wise and trying to keep an eye on the display to see what it was saying... not the easiest w/ the placement of the TQ display and where my garmin sits out front of the bars... 🤔

The GPX file shows nodes for each second of the ride. I nab the GPX file from the TREK App (see notes in prev post about how and the field content) and just play with it in Excel. My Garmin grabs some basic data like the assist level (which shows in the Garmin Connect app) but I've yet to delve into the Garmin FIT file data - since it doesn't show on the garmin screen nor in the summary in Garmin Connect, I'm doubtful that it grabbed and stored that data... but I may get around to diving down that rabbit hole too. Tho - if memory serves, Garmin compresses the data in their FIT files; it isn't clear text XML like the GPX file from the TREK app - so I'd need to sleuth out a converter.

Glad to assist!

- Will
 
@Calcoaster - you're welcome!

The adjusted rider input was my own "maths" to convert the number from the TREK file to match what my Garmin said. Not knowing how to easily align data from my garmin activity file and the TREK gpx file, I went "lazy but hopefully close enough" by just taking the section of data, summing the "human" input power number and dividing by the number of entries. I compared that average to the same one from Garmin/Strava - and came up with 66.1% as a factor to reduce TREK to match Garmin... I then just multiplied each value by 0.661 and used that in my chart...

Agreed - on your next two thoughts - I'm not sure, and would need to come up with some other segments where I knew what I was aiming for power wise and trying to keep an eye on the display to see what it was saying... not the easiest w/ the placement of the TQ display and where my garmin sits out front of the bars... 🤔

The GPX file shows nodes for each second of the ride. I nab the GPX file from the TREK App (see notes in prev post about how and the field content) and just play with it in Excel. My Garmin grabs some basic data like the assist level (which shows in the Garmin Connect app) but I've yet to delve into the Garmin FIT file data - since it doesn't show on the garmin screen nor in the summary in Garmin Connect, I'm doubtful that it grabbed and stored that data... but I may get around to diving down that rabbit hole too. Tho - if memory serves, Garmin compresses the data in their FIT files; it isn't clear text XML like the GPX file from the TREK app - so I'd need to sleuth out a converter.

Glad to assist!

- Will
All great information! I’d be interested to see if your multiplication factor to adjust the TQ reported rider power to a more accurate one is the same under different conditions. Like, if you ride in stock eco mode, will it still over-report by the same amount? That seems like it would be easy to fix with a firmware update, so I’m guessing it’s a more involved calculation. Still, my Creo seems pretty consistent and accurate in its rider power reporting, so maybe TQ will figure it out at some point.
 
All great information! I’d be interested to see if your multiplication factor to adjust the TQ reported rider power to a more accurate one is the same under different conditions. Like, if you ride in stock eco mode, will it still over-report by the same amount? That seems like it would be easy to fix with a firmware update, so I’m guessing it’s a more involved calculation. Still, my Creo seems pretty consistent and accurate in its rider power reporting, so maybe TQ will figure it out at some point.
Well - the plot thickens... 😉

On my ride today, I tried to compare the Garmin wattage to the wattage displaying on the TQ head unit, and I think I see a bit of a pattern.

As I started to add power slowly and then sustain that power, it looked like the numbers were the same, it was only when I eased off a bit that the TQ's number didn't drop... not until I backed off enough to supply a much lower (or zero) power to the pedals.

I think the TQ doesn't really "ease off" as the rider does, it appears to keep the "human" power number at it's max (ish) value until the rider eases up to put no input into the motor; then it resets and starts to match input again.

This may be a "usability" decision by TQ - I'm not sure I'm a fan of it or not... I think it may have been a decision to "support" the rider "in a manner to which they've become accustomed to" in an effort to keep the bike rolling along on a rise, hill, climb, effort, whatever... once the rider eases off significantly, I think the motor must ease up so the rider can coast to a stop, etc.

I can see how this might buoy a rider into enjoying a ride more; but being a cyclist who rides in groups, in pace lines, etc - I'm pretty used to easing up my power slightly to ensure my pace is consistent with other riders in the group.

I did most of this experimenting on the way back from my coffee run, but looks like the TREK app auto ended the ride while I was having said coffee... so I don't have that data to review. I'll see what I can find in the first half of the ride.
 
Well - the plot thickens... 😉

On my ride today, I tried to compare the Garmin wattage to the wattage displaying on the TQ head unit, and I think I see a bit of a pattern.

As I started to add power slowly and then sustain that power, it looked like the numbers were the same, it was only when I eased off a bit that the TQ's number didn't drop... not until I backed off enough to supply a much lower (or zero) power to the pedals.

I think the TQ doesn't really "ease off" as the rider does, it appears to keep the "human" power number at it's max (ish) value until the rider eases up to put no input into the motor; then it resets and starts to match input again.

This may be a "usability" decision by TQ - I'm not sure I'm a fan of it or not... I think it may have been a decision to "support" the rider "in a manner to which they've become accustomed to" in an effort to keep the bike rolling along on a rise, hill, climb, effort, whatever... once the rider eases off significantly, I think the motor must ease up so the rider can coast to a stop, etc.

I can see how this might buoy a rider into enjoying a ride more; but being a cyclist who rides in groups, in pace lines, etc - I'm pretty used to easing up my power slightly to ensure my pace is consistent with other riders in the group.

I did most of this experimenting on the way back from my coffee run, but looks like the TREK app auto ended the ride while I was having said coffee... so I don't have that data to review. I'll see what I can find in the first half of the ride.
Interesting observation. Every review I’ve read of the various TQ equipped bikes say it’s a very natural feel. Could it be that the TQ rider power number stays high like you described but its motor power fell off like you would expect? I think I read the TQ screen has an option to watch both rider and motor power.

Thanks for passing on your experiences! My Creo has a very natural feel, fairly accurate power reporting but an annoying motor whine, so I’m always interested in what else is out there.
 
@AntonioAlfaro - Not sure why you wouldn't see all the data unless your converter is only grabbing the main data in the nodes. There is also "extension" data for each "node" in the file - those extensions have all the other parameters. The gpx file is nothing but XML w/ nodes that look like this: Note the "extensions" section that may have been ignored by your converter

Code:
    <trkpt lat="36.078918" lon="-115.320503">
        <ele>866.311523</ele>
        <time>2023-07-07T16:47:47Z</time>
        <extensions>
            <distance>11911.881739</distance>
            <speed>10.166667</speed>
            <course>169</course>
            <acceleration>0.000000</acceleration>
            <calories>0.171117</calories>
            <speed_from_sensor>true</speed_from_sensor>
            <cadence>93</cadence>
            <ebike_mode>1</ebike_mode>
            <ebike_battery>92</ebike_battery>
            <power>184.000000</power>
            <motor_power>78</motor_power>
        </extensions>
    </trkpt>

I went to history in the TREK App, found the ride, tapped it to see the summary, then tapped the "up ward pointing arrow" button in the top right corner. That took me to a "share" page. From there, I chose the "Share to device" option. I just used GMail to mail it to myself.

From there, I just downloaded it to my computer (I use a PC) and then just used a web based "XML > CSV" file converter (I used This One). That allowed me to download the CSV file that I opened in Excel.

Hope this helps!

- Will
Thanks a lot Will. I already open it using Visual Studio Code. Next step to do a deep analysis of my first 2 rides.
 
Interesting observation. Every review I’ve read of the various TQ equipped bikes say it’s a very natural feel. Could it be that the TQ rider power number stays high like you described but its motor power fell off like you would expect? I think I read the TQ screen has an option to watch both rider and motor power.

Thanks for passing on your experiences! My Creo has a very natural feel, fairly accurate power reporting but an annoying motor whine, so I’m always interested in what else is out there.
@Calcoaster : Oh - don't get me wrong - it is a natural feel... I do like it... A LOT 😁

I'm just diving (perhaps) a bit too far down into the weeds on the data... I'll post what I find when I get a few min to dork out a bit more. 🤓 And to your point, I've not really looked at the combined number, etc.

I've gotten in the mix a few times now in groups w/ some close pacelines, etc - I've not had any "WTF" moments, nor has anyone in the group called me over for a polite word or three... (or called me out mid ride!) I've made a point to leave the "

A friend has a Creo in our group, and the noise is much more pronounced than the TQ. Personally, I like the ability to fit a front derailleur (which ruled the Creo out of my decision making early, sadly), to get a bigger top end. He gets dropped on the descents. I was able to add a 52T front ring to my D+, keeping the 34 little ring... perfect for climbing Red Rock canyon, and winding it up to keep up with the group when speeds top the 28 mile assist on the long steady descents in the area. I've had a few folks ask me what I think of my new bike, and they're surprised when I say "the motor"... 😉

But, YMMV - I'd suggest you hit a TREK shop to see what you think first hand...
 
@Calcoaster : Oh - don't get me wrong - it is a natural feel... I do like it... A LOT 😁

I'm just diving (perhaps) a bit too far down into the weeds on the data... I'll post what I find when I get a few min to dork out a bit more. 🤓 And to your point, I've not really looked at the combined number, etc.

I've gotten in the mix a few times now in groups w/ some close pacelines, etc - I've not had any "WTF" moments, nor has anyone in the group called me over for a polite word or three... (or called me out mid ride!) I've made a point to leave the "

A friend has a Creo in our group, and the noise is much more pronounced than the TQ. Personally, I like the ability to fit a front derailleur (which ruled the Creo out of my decision making early, sadly), to get a bigger top end. He gets dropped on the descents. I was able to add a 52T front ring to my D+, keeping the 34 little ring... perfect for climbing Red Rock canyon, and winding it up to keep up with the group when speeds top the 28 mile assist on the long steady descents in the area. I've had a few folks ask me what I think of my new bike, and they're surprised when I say "the motor"... 😉

But, YMMV - I'd suggest you hit a TREK shop to see what you think first hand...
This is really encouraging as that was one of the limitations about my Creo that I didn't like. Not so much the limited top end, but more the ability to have a 2X drivetrain so the cassette has smaller gaps.

I sure hope Trek comes out with an aluminum Domane+ in Canada so it is more affordable. Even an SL model instead of an SLR would do the trick. I just find it hard to justify spending $13k Cdn. on a bicycle.
 
Antonio, if you wouldn't mind sharing your impressions of the Domane+ vs the Orbea Gain once you've had more time on the Domane+ I'd really appreciate it as I'm interested in the Domane+.

I had a Creo, which was nice but I wanted to buy a nice set of carbon wheels and given the goofy spacing of the Creo I wasn't willing to drop big money on a set of wheels that could only be used on the Creo. That and I found on the road I really like a 2X drivetrain a lot more than 1X. So the Creo is gone and I'm contemplating a Domane+ in the near future. One issue I find is that in Canada they don't sell the Domane+ SLR6 and you have to buy the 7.

Trek just released an aluminum Fuel EXe so perhaps they'll do the same with the Domane+ which would be a more affordable model.
Hello Captain Slow,
It is in my pending anwers list. I will do asap.
 
Anyone on this thread who rides a SLR+ have a problem with their chain falling off (front)?
I know two people who recently bought one and both are having problems with their chain falling off when going from the small to big ring in the front.
So far the bike shop hasn't been able to fix the problem. Both bikes are Di2 Ultegra.
Hello Deacon Blues,
I am riding a Domane+ SLR 6 with Shimano 105 Di2 and Praxis front gear.
Bearing in mind the failure that you reported, last week I carried out some basic tests trying to find out under what conditions the chain could drop when changing the front gear.
As you know, when we are using the largest cog in the front (50 in the case) the rear cage is putting too much tension on the chain. When you shift to a small (36) front cog, the Di2 does it relatively quickly and in that time gap the chain tension is released. I found that if during that transition you maintain a medium-high cadence, the chain always derails, but if in that transition you stop pedaling momentarily, and start again but with low cadence, it never derails.
Now, I've also tested shifting from low to high front gearing, and never had a chain drop problem. It seems to me that your problem here may be a lack of fine adjustment of the Di2.
I hope this is of your help.
 
I have had no chain derailments at all, although I always back off slightly. I also found it helpful in this regard to increase the motor response, otherwise the boost stays on and the shifts are harsher. I have also noticed the subtle increase in assistance when I hit a sudden rise, as WSP mentions. It's almost like it "knows" what is needed, haha. Thanks, btw, for all the excellent analysis on rider v motor input, and temp.

Overall, I really love the technology and speed of this bike, but unfortunately it seems my beat-up knees are not acclimating well to the increased Q-factor. At 163mm it is only 18mm wider than my other (acoustic) road bikes, which are 145mm. And it's way narrower than a Creo, which is 181mm. Yet I get knee pain anytime I ride just 15-20 miles, even with the boost up, and have to wait a week before I can ride it again. The fit otherwise is excellent.

Does anyone else have any issues with knee pain from an e-bike? I suspect my knees are just worn in to the narrow road bike cranks after 20+ years. I have no issues with the same distance or even more on my acoustic Roubaix, Diverge, or Waterford - all of which are standard road width (145mm), so am gravitating back to riding them the most frequently. Not sure if I should keep trying and possibly risk permanent damage, or just sell it.
 
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I have had no chain derailments at all, although I always back off slightly. I also found it helpful in this regard to increase the motor response, otherwise the boost stays on and the shifts are harsher. I have also noticed the subtle increase in assistance when I hit a sudden rise, as WSP mentions. It's almost like it "knows" what is needed, haha. Thanks, btw, for all the excellent analysis on rider v motor input, and temp.

Overall, I really love the technology and speed of this bike, but unfortunately it seems my beat-up knees are not acclimating well to the increased Q-factor. At 163mm it is only 18mm wider than my other (acoustic) road bikes, which are 145mm. And it's way narrower than a Creo, which is 181mm. Yet I get knee pain anytime I ride just 15-20 miles, even with the boost up, and have to wait a week before I can ride it again. The fit otherwise is excellent.

Does anyone else have any issues with knee pain from an e-bike? I suspect my knees are just worn in to the narrow road bike cranks after 20+ years. I have no issues with the same distance or even more on my acoustic Roubaix, Diverge, or Waterford - all of which are standard road width (145mm), so am gravitating back to riding them the most frequently. Not sure if I should keep trying and possibly risk permanent damage, or just sell it.
Too bad about your knee pain. If the Q factor really is the culprit, are your cleats moved as far outbound (bringing feet inward) as possible but still allowing pedaling without rubbing your feet on the cranks? And if you haven’t had a thorough fit done on this bike, that’s worth a try too. Good luck!
 
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