Wannes …
Running an internal dropper cable will not be straightforward, especially in transitioning from the bottom of the seat tube
A to the bottom of the down tube
C. The rear shock
B is in the way!
X is in the same place on the bike in both photos – to help indicate photos' relative positions; otherwise irrelevant.
View attachment 30095
Four suggestions for fitting a dropper post…
1 : Internal cable running inside the seat post
A. (Yes, the seat tube is open at the bottom but has a stopper to prevent the seat post bashing onto the rear shock.) The cable will have to exit the seat tube immediately above the X-Fusion rear shock
B; there's little room here so a tight bend will be necessary.
2 : External cable running down the rear of the seat tube.
Either way, the cable can then enter the down tube together with the rear brake line and the Rohloff wiring
C and follow them past the PowerTube battery. There is an unused cable entry/exit hole on the down tube (top left, next to the battery keyhole).
Is routing the cable through/outside the seat post, around the rear shock, and into and out of the down tube and up to the handlebar worth the trouble?
3 : Wireless remote control. Think Magura Vyron; think many dollars.
4 : Integrated lever. I have used the same
KS Dropzone (operated by a lever under the saddle nose) on three ebikes and a road bike. It is simple and effective and does away with cabling problems. Rcommended.
I chose the minimum 'drop' of 75 mm (65 mm on the budget E10 version) because anything more than that would have shot me skywards beyond my correct pedalling position. If one has plenty of room between seat collar and saddle, then 100 mm would be better. The correct setup will have feet flat on the ground when stopped and also allow easy slipping back onto the saddle.
… David