Allant+7 thoughts/review

May I know if the allant+7s comes with tubeless tires or with tube?
I just ordered my bike online and is forward planning for when I go touring if I should switch to tubeless for ease of puncture repair?
I've been using Stan's tire sealant installed in my tubes & it has been great! No need to worry about going tubeless, unless you want to. It's worked for me a couple of times & will always use it.
 
Given that you have indicated that your chain and drivetrain is well lubed, no apparent problems with pedals, and that this occurs at the same point on every rotation of the cranks, I would suggest it may be linked to either:
  • Cranks
  • Bottom-bracket
  • Pedal bearings
First try spinning the pedals on the axis of their spindle to ensure the spin smoothly and approximately equal on both pedals.

Next check the cranks. Try pulling each crank gently outward to see if it has any play or movement. If it does it might simply need to be tightened with a hex torque wrench (to the manufacturer's recommended torque).

If it is not the cranks, it could be something with the bottom bracket. Unless you are skilled bike mechanic, I'd recommend going to a pro to look at the bottom bracket.

This site might have some useful tips for troubleshooting the sound:

Unfortunately, though, these noises often appear only under load. The rider may want to live with it until it gets worse and therefore easier to diagnose. These things were so much easier (IMHO) to deal with in the days of loose bearings. OTOH, the problems were much more common then, too.
 
Unfortunately, though, these noises often appear only under load. The rider may want to live with it until it gets worse and therefore easier to diagnose. These things were so much easier (IMHO) to deal with in the days of loose bearings. OTOH, the problems were much more common then, too.
I generally agree.

However, I disagree about "living with it until it gets worse." Especially in the case if it anything related to the bottom-bracket or where the cranks attach to the spline on the bottom bracket. If it is isolated to that location I would try to address it before riding much more because additional pedaling loads could cause damage. For example, repeat pedaling on loose cranks could wear down the splines on the bottom bracket spindle and the where crank arms attach to the spindle. I *think* (but cannot confirm) that the bottom bracket on the Bosch Gen-4 mid-drive Bikes (such as the Allant+) is built-in as a component within the whole Bosch motor. So, if that gets damaged, I suspect it would be a costly replacement.
 
I generally agree.

However, I disagree about "living with it until it gets worse." Especially in the case if it anything related to the bottom-bracket or where the cranks attach to the spline on the bottom bracket. If it is isolated to that location I would try to address it before riding much more because additional pedaling loads could cause damage. For example, repeat pedaling on loose cranks could wear down the splines on the bottom bracket spindle and the where crank arms attach to the spindle. I *think* (but cannot confirm) that the bottom bracket on the Bosch Gen-4 mid-drive Bikes (such as the Allant+) is built-in as a component within the whole Bosch motor. So, if that gets damaged, I suspect it would be a costly replacement.
Agree, but would be under warranty. BB is least likely, don't you think? The bike is 6 weeks old. I suspect the OP has had the bike into the Trek dealer by now anyway. Maybe they did forget to tighten the crank enough in setup? Seems a few did that with pedals last year...
 
I suspect the OP has had the bike into the Trek dealer by now anyway.
I think it is necessary.
Not sure how the Trek warranty works in the U.S. but Specialized and Giant in Europe are very explicit that the new owner of their e-bike (or traditional bike) is obliged to bring the ride for the "paid warranty service" after several hundred km ridden or within 6 months (whichever comes first). Only the "first warranty service" makes the warranty hold.

The first several hundred miles means several bolts might come loose, the derailleur might require adjustment etc. The noise heard in the BB/crank area might originate anywhere in the e-bike; the bike needs attention of the techie.

With my first e-bike (which I bought online), I neglected coming to an LBS for the inspection in time, and that cost me a broken derailleur, bent derailleur hanger, and my e-bike was out of order for a month; the reason was the misaligned derailleur.
 
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Given that you have indicated that your chain and drivetrain is well lubed, no apparent problems with pedals, and that this occurs at the same point on every rotation of the cranks, I would suggest it may be linked to either:
  • Cranks
  • Bottom-bracket
  • Pedal bearings
First try spinning the pedals on the axis of their spindle to ensure the spin smoothly and approximately equal on both pedals.

Next check the cranks. Try pulling each crank gently outward to see if it has any play or movement. If it does it might simply need to be tightened with a hex torque wrench (to the manufacturer's recommended torque).

If it is not the cranks, it could be something with the bottom bracket. Unless you are skilled bike mechanic, I'd recommend going to a pro to look at the bottom bracket.

This site might have some useful tips for troubleshooting the sound:

tks Gringo, i will plan on bringing it back to the shop.
 
tks Gringo, i will plan on bringing it back to the shop.
the shop has the bike now. I dropped it off yesterday hopefully will have a report on it today. I only have 300 miles on it so far and my feeling have been very positive on the handling and power of the bike. I didn't feel I needed the 28 mph speed so I am completely happy with 20 mph for my style of riding. Another factor in purchasing one is to is to locate one (almost impossible to find) I called all over the state of AZ and did locate one is west Phoenix. Ran out the next morning drove 150 miles and bought it.
I did have several problems. first one was my rear brake stopped working it was defective. so They replaced my complete front and back brake system with a Shimano system which it wasn't. Of course under warranty. Now we are looking into the squeak problem I am having. I am not discouraged, this will all get worked out. The motor noise some people have complained about hasn't bothered me in the least. I hardly notice it. the only negative has been the seat which I will probably change out.
Will let you know what they find on the squeak problem.
Stan
 
Have anyone swap the bell out for a knog oi? Where do you place the it as it doesn’t fit where the existing bell goes?
 
I bought one last year for my Trek verve+3 and finally switch to a Allant+7.

It easy to fit, comes with a spacer. On my allant+7 I added a few layer of tape to get a good fit.

I like it very much.
1641946555822.png
 
You didn’t ask, so feel free to ignore :)

The Oi looks awesome but I was concerned about it’s durability. Who knows though. I went with a different premium bell. Robust, tiny, fairly loud, and has a lifetime warranty. Here is my Spurcycle Compact bell (the compact is their less expensive bell). Just in case you want to see how other bells can fit.

I would love to see a Oi in person. Looks cool. But seems like it might be fragile or maybe make noise when on rough roads.
 

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They replaced my complete front and back brake system with a Shimano system which it wasn't. Of course under warranty.

I thought the Allant 7+ always came with Shimano brakes. What was your before? Do they spec the bikes differently for different regions?
 
You didn’t ask, so feel free to ignore :)

The Oi looks awesome but I was concerned about it’s durability. Who knows though. I went with a different premium bell. Robust, tiny, fairly loud, and has a lifetime warranty. Here is my Spurcycle Compact bell (the compact is their less expensive bell). Just in case you want to see how other bells can fit.

I would love to see a Oi in person. Looks cool. But seems like it might be fragile or maybe make noise when on rough roads.
The handle bar sizing for knog oi is the smaller one. I wanted it to mount where the original bell was mounted but it won’t be able to fit in as there’s not enough clearance between the gear indicator and the bar.
You have moved the positions of your brakes and shifter, how does it felt ergonomic wise?
 
The handle bar sizing for knog oi is the smaller one. I wanted it to mount where the original bell was mounted but it won’t be able to fit in as there’s not enough clearance between the gear indicator and the bar.
You have moved the positions of your brakes and shifter, how does it felt ergonomic wise?
I didn’t move the position of any of the components. I guess they set up bikes differently sometimes. Mine did not come with a bell, for example. Only the S models come with a bell around here.

Ergonomically it is perfect for me. I can reach the brake, both shift levers, and the bell all without having to move my hand from the grip. I couldn’t reach the bell if it was on the other side of the shifter because my hands are not large enough.

I forgot to mention that one of the reasons I went with the Spurcycle compact was because it was small enough to fit in that gap. The Oi was too wide to fit there.
 
I didn’t move the position of any of the components. I guess they set up bikes differently sometimes. Mine did not come with a bell, for example. Only the S models come with a bell around here.

Ergonomically it is perfect for me. I can reach the brake, both shift levers, and the bell all without having to move my hand from the grip. I couldn’t reach the bell if it was on the other side of the shifter because my hands are not large enough.

I forgot to mention that one of the reasons I went with the Spurcycle compact was because it was small enough to fit in that gap. The Oi was too wide to fit there.
yea I got the +7s. Attached some photos to give a clearer view on my challenges. Another option if I am dead set on a knog is to mount it on the left by moving the purion to the right a wee bit
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I've been using Stan's tire sealant installed in my tubes & it has been great! No need to worry about going tubeless, unless you want to. It's worked for me a couple of times & will always use it.
I ordered the Joe's E-bike Commuter Anti-Puncture Gel 240ml. How do you apply it? Do you have to deflate the tube first? I am getting some anxiety as it’s a 21km ride to work and another 21km back.
 
I thought the Allant 7+ always came with Shimano brakes. What was your before? Do they spec the bikes differently for different regions?
it was another brand. I asked the same question. the answer was they have to use what they can get because of the unavailability of parts for new bikes. the other was a two disk. the replacement is a 4 disk.
 
I am new member from Tucson AZ. home of the Tucson loop. 54 miles of paved bike trails around the city.
6 weeks ago I bought a trek Allant+7. I have about 300 miles on it now. I do like the bike a lot. smooth, comfortable and good power.
there is one strange problem I am having that I don't have an answer for maybe someone has seen this before. After I have been riding a couple of miles there is a squeak which appears to come from my pedal area. it comes from the same spot my foot is at at each revaluation. it doesn't matter which gear I am in or which mode I am in. when I stop pedaling it stops. so it not from the tires. it will come ang go as I ride. The Pedals are both fine and turn freely. My chain is lubed. I am at loss as to what might be causing it. it is very obvious.
Has anyone seen something similar?
thanks,
Sta
well they figured out where the squeak was coming from. believe it or not it was from the seat. rear screw was not tight enough. they said they have seen this problem before. so far the squeak appears 2 be gone.
 
well they figured out where the squeak was coming from. believe it or not it was from the seat. rear screw was not tight enough. they said they have seen this problem before. so far the squeak appears 2 be gone.
Thanks for reporting back. I've heard that sometimes saddles can be the source of a squeak in your pedal cadence. That's great that it sounds like a fairly simple fix on your saddle!
 
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