Allant+7 thoughts/review

[Stefan Mikes]

Justin,
Your Alex MD35 rims are indeed tubeless ready and you can do the conversion if you like. G-Ones are tubeless ready, too.
Were I you, I would keep G-Ones as long as I wouldn't really start suffering from punctures. It is because G-Ones are the gravel-cycling favourite choice: lightweight, offering low rolling resistance, supple, and with good traction. If you convert to tubeless, there is a great chance all minor punctures would be self-sealed. In case of bigger holes, there are tubeless repair kits that allow you repairing the tyre without removing the wheel.

If you went for more puncture resistant tyres that would mean weight and rolling resistance increase.

 

[JustinJX]

Justin,
Your Alex MD35 rims are indeed tubeless ready and you can do the conversion if you like. G-Ones are tubeless ready, too.
Were I you, I would keep G-Ones as long as I wouldn't really start suffering from punctures. It is because G-Ones are the gravel-cycling favourite choice: lightweight, offering low rolling resistance, supple, and with good traction. If you convert to tubeless, there is a great chance all minor punctures would be self-sealed. In case of bigger holes, there are tubeless repair kits that allow you repairing the tyre without removing the wheel.

If you went for more puncture resistant tyres that would mean weight and rolling resistance increase.

Sweet. When I dropped it off to the bike shop I didn't realize the g-ones are tubeless ready.
They have installed the goodyear peak ultimate on it instead, I'm going to pick the bike up tomorrow, going to ask for the g-ones back so that I can use that in the future.
Thank you for sharing

 

[JustinJX]

Well, got the original tires back. Strange it wasn’t tubeless ready though.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Strange. Schwalbe define G-Ones as Tubeless Ready and my gravel riding mates use them tubeless.

 

[JustinJX]

Based on your opinion, which one of these would be faster on the road?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Judging by the tread, G-one would be faster. Goodyear Peak Ultimate resembles a Schwalbe Smart Sam. That is, the Peak would roll silently on the pavement and offer good grip on gravel and in mild off-road but at a cost of somewhat increased rolling resistance.

Not that would matter a lot for you Justin! Bear in mind your Allant+ is equipped with a powerful motor that would offset the difference easily. I have run Smart Sams on both my full power and the lightweight e-bikes for a long time to my utmost satisfaction. Only recently, I've started thinking I might be better off with G-ones on my less powerful e-bike as I'm searching for anything to make it roll more efficiently

 

[Holland-Tim-Allant+8S]

Judging by the tread, G-one would be faster. Goodyear Peak Ultimate resembles a Schwalbe Smart Sam. That is, the Peak would roll silently on the pavement and offer good grip on gravel and in mild off-road but at a cost of somewhat increased rolling resistance.

Not that would matter a lot for you Justin! Bear in mind your Allant+ is equipped with a powerful motor that would offset the difference easily. I have run Smart Sams on both my full power and the lightweight e-bikes for a long time to my utmost satisfaction. Only recently, I've started thinking I might be better off with G-ones on my less powerful e-bike as I'm searching for anything to make it roll more efficiently

imho, also, these Allants are so powerful and have large enough batteries that a more all-around tire makes a lot of sense for me. i like being able to get off the pavement when i want and have the added traction. your bike has the 500 wH battery, so should be good for very long rides. i give up a little bit of efficiency, but i get much more back in traction and confidence on all surfaces.

but for you, if you stay on pavement and want to maximize your distance, then the "faster" tire may be a better match. tim

 

[Holland-Tim-Allant+8S]

imho, also, these Allants are so powerful and have large enough batteries that a more all-around tire makes a lot of sense for me. i like being able to get off the pavement when i want and have the added traction. your bike has the 500 wH battery, so should be good for very long rides. i give up a little bit of efficiency, but i get much more back in traction and confidence on all surfaces.

but for you, if you stay on pavement and want to maximize your distance, then the "faster" tire may be a better match. tim

got these for our Allant+8S bikes since i liked them so much on the Powerfly. Bontrager LT4 Expert. Really good in sandy soil and quiet on road. the standard Allant+8S tire is almost a slick.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

the standard Allant+8S tire is almost a slick.

Not without a reason. This is because that tyre has a low rolling resistance (being wide at the same time), and additional compound makes the tyre soft and sticky. The whole idea behind is to facilitate reaching higher speeds such as 28 mph while making the road ride safe. The same concept is applied to Euro 45 km/h Specialized Vado 6.0, where the Electrak tyres are pretty similar to Bontragers in that respect.

 

[Holland-Tim-Allant+8S]

Not without a reason. This is because that tyre has a low rolling resistance (being wide at the same time), and additional compound makes the tyre soft and sticky. The whole idea behind is to facilitate reaching higher speeds such as 28 mph while making the road ride safe. The same concept is applied to Euro 45 km/h Specialized Vado 6.0, where the Electrak tyres are pretty similar to Bontragers in that respect.

Good information. It is a quality tire but definitely optimized for pavement. Thanks Tim

 

[JustinJX]

Have been commuting to work 22km each way for close to 3 weeks now. Had an issue with the tubeless conversion on the front tire not holding pressure and the LBS redid the whole thing and it’s been great. The chain started skipping when I am riding hard on the smallest sprocket, I’ll readjust the dérailleur this weekend as I have been playing with the barrel adjuster to try to fix it but it’s not working.
Did my first grocery shop on the way home from work.

 

[opimax]

I have had my rear wheel upgraded/rebulit a couple months ago and just picked up my bike yesterday with a new 10 speed assembly upgrade to repair “skipping” for a total of near 500$ . I am convinced this a a design issue. I have been taken care nicely by the Trek corp store , can’t say enough about them. I did not buy the bike from them on top of that. i am happy if I get 1000 miles before I need a new chain and gear cluster . Problem for me is that it is just 10 rides

 

[JustinJX]

I have had my rear wheel upgraded/rebulit a couple months ago and just picked up my bike yesterday with a new 10 speed assembly upgrade to repair “skipping” for a total of near 500$ . I am convinced this a a design issue. I have been taken care nicely by the Trek corp store , can’t say enough about them. I did not buy the bike from them on top of that. i am happy if I get 1000 miles before I need a new chain and gear cluster . Problem for me is that it is just 10 rides

The chain skipping for new bikes is usually just cable stretching. I readjust the cable plus the high low settings and b index. And clean and re oil the chains. I suspect mine is the h setting which is not meant to align the derailleur and the sprocket directly but to have it slightly offset according to the shimano user manual.

 

[Sparky731]

2,900 happy miles on my G-One Allrounds and they still look decent. They are noisy. And also spit stones when riding on gravely payment. One stone hit a sign with a clang last week, otherwise the stones sound like small fire crackers. Kind of fun but sometimes unnerving. Definitely startles nearby pedestrians.

Replaced and upgraded the chain, cassette and derailleur @ 1,200 miles (All at Trek shop.)

I have had 3 inconvenient flats — always rear tire, always a sharp stone. Tried Slime tubes and now just Slime my regular tubes. Going tubeless if my tires ever wear out.

Other kit items besides listed by others above: A plastic bag to hold a slimed tube when flat. (They are messy.) And definitely gloves and hand wipes. An electric pump. Cash. Duct tape. A needle nose pliers.

I have loaded my 7s with 1,125 watts and can go about 50 hard Turbo miles. Or 260 light Eco miles — Like I would ever ride my 7s in anything under Sport mode!!

 

[JustinJX]

2,900 happy miles on my G-One Allrounds and they still look decent. They are noisy. And also spit stones when riding on gravely payment. One stone hit a sign with a clang last week, otherwise the stones sound like small fire crackers. Kind of fun but sometimes unnerving. Definitely startles nearby pedestrians.

Replaced and upgraded the chain, cassette and derailleur @ 1,200 miles (All at Trek shop.)

I have had 3 inconvenient flats — always rear tire, always a sharp stone. Tried Slime tubes and now just Slime my regular tubes. Going tubeless if my tires ever wear out.

Other kit items besides listed by others above: A plastic bag to hold a slimed tube when flat. (They are messy.) And definitely gloves and hand wipes. An electric pump. Cash. Duct tape. A needle nose pliers.

I have loaded my 7s with 1,125 watts and can go about 50 hard Turbo miles. Or 260 light Eco miles — Like I would ever ride my 7s in anything under Sport mode!!

What did you upgrade to for your derailleur cassette and chain?
Sport mode is awesome

 

[JustinJX]

So my chain is still skipping on the smallest sprocket when I pedal hard on tour/sport mode on slight incline/headwinds.
Checked the chains with the cc tool and it’s got minimal stretch on it. I can only conclude that I have started wearing down the smallest sprocket already as that’s the gear I ride on most of the time. (I live in NZ, it’s very flat except for the last 1.3km which I will need to ride on the second and third largest sprocket going up in Sport mode, or second and largest sprocket going up in Tour/Eco mode).

This made me seriously consider drivetrain wear on ebike and how to make it more resilient. (Apart from not riding hard out all the time and have some heart for the drivetrain).
1. Larger chainring, I can’t find any thing larger than the one that comes with the bike which is 46T that attaches directly to the hub without needing a spider. And 46T is pretty big.
2. Smaller sprocket with more teeth, 12T instead of 11T. Or have a 11-12-13/14 for the smaller sprocket sets. Ride on 12T more often than 11T, 12T is also closer to the center of the cassette, hence less sideway stretch on the chain from the chainring.
3. Going down to 8 speed instead of 9 speed. This has 2 benefits of potentially thicker smallest sprocket and also wider chain (more durable)? If I go down this path I would like to know if I can keep the existing 9 speed derailleur but change to an 8 speed shifter.

In a perfect world I would love to have a 11-12-13/14 and 32/34 largest sprocket with an 8 speed cassette.

Currently eyeing up CS-HG400-9
11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32T (ar)

I can also get an SRAM 8 speed
11-32t:11,12,14,16,18,21,26,32
But I am not sure what else I will have to change. Can I keep the shimano derailleur and existing chainring and just get a sram 8 speed shifter? (The sram system will be lower than than the existing shimano alivio)

 

[Sparky731]

What did you upgrade to for your derailleur cassette and chain?
Sport mode is awesome

Upgraded to Trek’s ebike chain — which Trek does not provide as standard equipment, and Shimano Deore derailleur. Cassette, not sure of brand. All were recommended by Trek technician. Next upgrade may be to a 10 gear set.

I experience the same chain skipping as you in the smallest gear. Many have tried to adjust it, but the problem persists. Best temporary fix is frequent cleanings and lubes, but problem continues.

Turbo all of the time, every ride!

 

[Sparky731]

So my chain is still skipping on the smallest sprocket when I pedal hard on tour/sport mode on slight incline/headwinds.
Checked the chains with the cc tool and it’s got minimal stretch on it. I can only conclude that I have started wearing down the smallest sprocket already as that’s the gear I ride on most of the time. (I live in NZ, it’s very flat except for the last 1.3km which I will need to ride on the second and third largest sprocket going up in Sport mode, or second and largest sprocket going up in Tour/Eco mode).

This made me seriously consider drivetrain wear on ebike and how to make it more resilient. (Apart from not riding hard out all the time and have some heart for the drivetrain).
1. Larger chainring, I can’t find any thing larger than the one that comes with the bike which is 46T that attaches directly to the hub without needing a spider. And 46T is pretty big.
2. Smaller sprocket with more teeth, 12T instead of 11T. Or have a 11-12-13/14 for the smaller sprocket sets. Ride on 12T more often than 11T, 12T is also closer to the center of the cassette, hence less sideway stretch on the chain from the chainring.
3. Going down to 8 speed instead of 9 speed. This has 2 benefits of potentially thicker smallest sprocket and also wider chain (more durable)? If I go down this path I would like to know if I can keep the existing 9 speed derailleur but change to an 8 speed shifter.

In a perfect world I would love to have a 11-12-13/14 and 32/34 largest sprocket with an 8 speed cassette.

Currently eyeing up CS-HG400-9
11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32T (ar)

I can also get an SRAM 8 speed
11-32t:11,12,14,16,18,21,26,32
But I am not sure what else I will have to change. Can I keep the shimano derailleur and existing chainring and just get a sram 8 speed shifter? (The sram system will be lower than than the existing shimano alivio)

FYI, my chain skip miraculously went away. I attribute it to a better alignment of the rear wheel in the frame. Much improved ride!

 

[Jbangs]

Upgraded to Trek’s ebike chain — which Trek does not provide as standard equipment, and Shimano Deore derailleur. Cassette, not sure of brand. All were recommended by Trek technician. Next upgrade may be to a 10 gear set.

I experience the same chain skipping as you in the smallest gear. Many have tried to adjust it, but the problem persists. Best temporary fix is frequent cleanings and lubes, but problem continues.

Turbo all of the time, every ride!View attachment 116213

Interesting to read of everybody's ideas and fix on chain and chain skipping. I took my bike into my dealer to have them adjust the battery in and out of the frame function. It was catching and problematic like some others have typed on this forum. I got my bike back last year in July and never had the battery out until it got cold at night (bikes live in the garage!) in october and the battery came inside. Anyway, when they had it they checked the chain stretch and at 1300 miles needed to be replaced. All good because I've never had any chain skipping. I'll just know now to keep checking the chain and expect replacement evey 1300-1500 miles. The mechanic asked about my riding and I told him my commute home is all uphill, usually against the prevailing wind. He said it looked like I was torquing the pedals all the time. I'm going to get one of those chain measuring tools and stock an extra chain. What was the model number of that Trek e bike chain??

 

[Sparky731]

Interesting to read of everybody's ideas and fix on chain and chain skipping. I took my bike into my dealer to have them adjust the battery in and out of the frame function. It was catching and problematic like some others have typed on this forum. I got my bike back last year in July and never had the battery out until it got cold at night (bikes live in the garage!) in october and the battery came inside. Anyway, when they had it they checked the chain stretch and at 1300 miles needed to be replaced. All good because I've never had any chain skipping. I'll just know now to keep checking the chain and expect replacement evey 1300-1500 miles. The mechanic asked about my riding and I told him my commute home is all uphill, usually against the prevailing wind. He said it looked like I was torquing the pedals all the time. I'm going to get one of those chain measuring tools and stock an extra chain. What was the model number of that Trek e bike chain??

Not sure the part number for Trek’s ebike chain. Good news, though, it has outlasted the original chain by 2x miles and shows no stretch.

Also, FYI, different topic, I just replaced the Schwalbe G-Ones with Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. Loved the G-Ones but they are no match for prickly things on the trail. Even with Slime. Going tubeless. As soon as it stops raining I hope to test them out.