Allant+7 thoughts/review

Not sure the part number for Trek’s ebike chain. Good news, though, it has outlasted the original chain by 2x miles and shows no stretch.

Also, FYI, different topic, I just replaced the Schwalbe G-Ones with Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. Loved the G-Ones but they are no match for prickly things on the trail. Even with Slime. Going tubeless. As soon as it stops raining I hope to test them out.
What was your mileage with the G-ones?? I have liked them but it seems, at least to me, that the wear has been quick. I am at 1400 miles on them. Not ready for the trash bin yet but the tred has worn down.
 
I love all the photos people have contributed.
Here is my Allant7+ S which I like a lot. It opened my eyes to how expensive some bikes can be. Quality of course.

Got this in Jan of 2022. So far about 93 miles on it. Had to wait for the snow to melt and salt get washed off the road.

I live in a hilly area. This is the bike I need to get up those hills especially when there is a head wind.
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How difficult is it to change the inner tube on our bikes given that there is fender there? Best to take the tire off? Specifically, I mean when on the road.
Thanks.
 
How difficult is it to change the inner tube on our bikes given that there is fender there? Best to take the tire off? Specifically, I mean when on the road.
Thanks.
I carry one of these since our bikes have a controller, bell and maybe a GPS device or other - It's called The Handlebar Jack. Well made and easy to use. Doing it first in your garage or home is a good idea. 5mm hex key is required along with good set of tire levers.
 
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I carry one of these since our bikes have a controller, bell and maybe a GPS device or other - It's called The Handlebar Jack. Well made and easy to use. Doing it first in your garage are home is a good idea. 5mm hex key is required along with good set of tire levers.
Great tool. I use my handlebar jack every time any of my bikes needs to go upside down. Have used on others’ bikes as well during trail rides when a tire needs repair.
 
How difficult is it to change the inner tube on our bikes given that there is fender there? Best to take the tire off? Specifically, I mean when on the road.
Thanks.
FYI, I have been unable to “break the bead“ on the tire without an extra set of hands. Apparently the G-Ones are known for a good, tight fit to the wheel.
 
What was your mileage with the G-ones?? I have liked them but it seems, at least to me, that the wear has been quick. I am at 1400 miles on them. Not ready for the trash bin yet but the tred has worn down.
You can see the tire wear (rear left, front right) and the mileage less 20 put on yesterday after buying the Gravelking SKs. Most of those miles were ridden at above 27mph. FYI, per tire wear, weight=155, 45psi. I ride fast and hard when solo. 90% pavement. When I am on gravel I like to brake-slide my rear tire to impress my wife riding next to me. She said it doesn’t work. It’s still fun. Just like when I was a kid. I grew up in the country with all gravel roads. The new fad is not new to me.

Sad to give up the G-Ones — very good tire, but highly pervious even with Slime. I felt could not depend upon a ride with no flats when riding in Arizona. I am very pleased with the Gravelkings so far. Much quieter than the G-Ones, and I assume less noise = less resistance. Although I never felt that a problem with the G-Ones. $270 for the tubeless mount, tires, parts and labor.

I definitely pray for no flats as there is no way I could break the bead and insert a tube on the trail. My Lbs guys all confirm no flats, but may need to refresh the sealant every 3-6 months — it could be used when self-sealing multiple thorn holes, etc., or as it dries out. Definitely will do just prior to heading back to AZ for the Winter. Free refills.
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Another item: Brake bleed needed?
After removing/replacing the rear wheel on my 7s, my brake requires me to squeeze the handlebar lever 2-3 times to re-establish the brake pad-to-rotor grip. Always rear, never front. Once established, I never experience any loss of stopping grip or lever travel. No indications of wear marks on the rotors and have never heard a noise from the pads. 3,300 miles. Most ridden fast with active breaking.
Next available time I will arrange for a service at my dealership.
Can’t hurt.
 
I ran into an interesting issue today. I got a MIK type bag for my Allant + 7S. Very happy with the bag (Basil Brand). My goal was to have one bag for my Allant and my Dual Sport 3 (non-electric). Well. the racks on the 2 Treks are different so the bag will not fit unless I modify the foot every time. I asked the dealer if I could have the same rack on both bikes and he's researching it.

I'm thinking of getting another bag (not as pricey) and putting a new MIK plate on it.
 
I ran into an interesting issue today. I got a MIK type bag for my Allant + 7S. Very happy with the bag (Basil Brand). My goal was to have one bag for my Allant and my Dual Sport 3 (non-electric). Well. the racks on the 2 Treks are different so the bag will not fit unless I modify the foot every time. I asked the dealer if I could have the same rack on both bikes and he's researching it.

I'm thinking of getting another bag (not as pricey) and putting a new MIK plate on it.
Same issue. Just buy the MIK adapter for the rear carrier. From MIK. I needed to do the same for both my wife’s and my bikes. Also with the MIK adapter I can change between my Bontrager trunk and a wire basket that I under-mounted the male MIK adapter that you can also buy from MIK. Identical to the one on the bottom of your bag. Really cool.
 
Same issue. Just buy the MIK adapter for the rear carrier. From MIK. I needed to do the same for both my wife’s and my bikes. Also with the MIK adapter I can change between my Bontrager trunk and a wire basket that I under-mounted the male MIK adapter that you can also buy from MIK. Identical to the one on the bottom of your bag. Really cool.
Yes; I just ordered the plate. Is water intrusion an issue when you put the screws in?
 
FYI, I have been unable to “break the bead“ on the tire without an extra set of hands. Apparently the G-Ones are known for a good, tight fit to the wheel.
Those tires do fit extra snug. Bit of lubricant such as WD40 in the bead area helps a lot. It's something else to carry but works well. They make the small cans that can be used for all sorts of things. About the size of the handlebar Jack. The other thing you can do but it's a PITA is remove the tires once (at home) and then they'll come off easier if it you flat on the road. Besides being a good learning tool it kinda sucks.

I've been running tubeless on a Rail 7 eMTB for a year and not had one flat in 500 tough off road miles. Seriously considering the same for our Allant's.
 
Another item: Brake bleed needed?
After removing/replacing the rear wheel on my 7s, my brake requires me to squeeze the handlebar lever 2-3 times to re-establish the brake pad-to-rotor grip. Always rear, never front. Once established, I never experience any loss of stopping grip or lever travel. No indications of wear marks on the rotors and have never heard a noise from the pads. 3,300 miles. Most ridden fast with active breaking.
Next available time I will arrange for a service at my dealership.
Can’t hurt.
Sometimes the pads get pushed back a bit, those push on the caliper pistons, which must push back out on the disc rotor when you put the wheel back on. It's common and doesn't mean anything is wrong. Most important thing is to look at the brake pads and make sure there's reasonable amount of friction material still on them. Servicing the hydraulics (brake bleeding) isn't really hard but if you've never done it can be a bit fiddly and frustrating. I'm glad the Treks use Shimano because they use mineral oil vs hydraulic fluid as in some systems. Mineral oil is much more user friendly. Replacing brake pads is pretty easy, just watch couple video's and you're golden. Brake bleeding is your call. Special tools (not expensive) required.
 
Yes; I just ordered the plate. Is water intrusion an issue when you put the screws in?
Not sure of your question. No water intrusion problems on the rear carrier of course. Likewise no water issues with the basket because it is an all-weather basket. The Bontrager trunk is definitely prone to water soaking — which is why they tuck a very handy water proof cover into the trunk’s front pocket.
 
Those tires do fit extra snug. Bit of lubricant such as WD40 in the bead area helps a lot. It's something else to carry but works well. They make the small cans that can be used for all sorts of things. About the size of the handlebar Jack. The other thing you can do but it's a PITA is remove the tires once (at home) and then they'll come off easier if it you flat on the road. Besides being a good learning tool it kinda sucks.

I've been running tubeless on a Rail 7 eMTB for a year and not had one flat in 500 tough off road miles. Seriously considering the same for our Allant's.
Yeah, Those G-1's were tough to get off the bead. I've never had that. I felt like I was over forcing it to get it loose. I ended up only doing one side and stuffing in the new tube. When I re-tire maybe I'll go tubeless. Never had a bike be tubeless. Does the sealant stay pliable?? I've used the slime tubes in the past and along with being heavy the sealant clumps up over time and then I just throw them away.
 
Also, if you are new to the 7s, you should know that you can load the 625 watt RIB battery that comes standard with the 8’s and 9’s into the 7s. Costs about a grand with the new Trek cover plate. The 500w 7s Power Tube battery has a spacer to fill the gap In size between the batteries.
With the additional 500w auxiliary Range Boost I can get ~50 miles of Turbo @ 28mph. 280 miles of Eco (Untested). Get as much lithium as you can!
 
Yeah, Those G-1's were tough to get off the bead. I've never had that. I felt like I was over forcing it to get it loose. I ended up only doing one side and stuffing in the new tube. When I re-tire maybe I'll go tubeless. Never had a bike be tubeless. Does the sealant stay pliable?? I've used the slime tubes in the past and along with being heavy the sealant clumps up over time and then I just throw them away.
Sealant is supposed to remain pliable until it isn’t, around 3-6 months depending upon riding conditions, temperatures, etc. simple refill.
 
Yeah, Those G-1's were tough to get off the bead. I've never had that. I felt like I was over forcing it to get it loose. I ended up only doing one side and stuffing in the new tube. When I re-tire maybe I'll go tubeless. Never had a bike be tubeless. Does the sealant stay pliable?? I've used the slime tubes in the past and along with being heavy the sealant clumps up over time and then I just throw them away.
I'm a newbie regarding tubeless but definitely trending that direction. The mountain bike experience has been wonderful so far. Yeah, the "juice" needs to be added about every 90 - 120 days. This doesn't seem to be an exact science? Then there's choosing your favorite poison. I've gone with the Orange brand for no specific reason. Stan's is also very popular. There's a little learning curve but so far so good. Adding sealant isn't a big deal. Overall pretty darn impressive so far. Presta not Schedar valves! Where it works great is with goats heads and thorns. Where it doesn't is glass cuts or worse. Biggest downsides as I can see is using tubeless and getting a cut larger than the juice can seal. Fixing that with a boot or tube is gonna take some doing. Grab the cell phone and call for HELP! AAA, I've got a eBike issue 😂
 
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