Allant+7 thoughts/review

Hi all, I am a new Allant+ 7 owner. Stock so far, except I had the shop upgrade from Purion to the Smartphonehub. Loving it so far, although the fact that it is apparently overestimating my speed is not super great since I ride with others and need to match speed.

Question: When I plug the charger into the charge port on the bike I find the connection to be very loose. It will fall out if I move the charger or cable. Is that normal for this model?

Thanks!
 
DaddyBigas said:
Hi all, I am a new Allant+ 7 owner. Stock so far, except I had the shop upgrade from Purion to the Smartphonehub. Loving it so far, although the fact that it is apparently overestimating my speed is not super great since I ride with others and need to match speed.

Question: When I plug the charger into the charge port on the bike I find the connection to be very loose. It will fall out if I move the charger or cable. Is that normal for this model?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I have the 8-the plug in is very secure.
 
DaddyBigas said:
Hi all, I am a new Allant+ 7 owner. Stock so far, except I had the shop upgrade from Purion to the Smartphonehub. Loving it so far, although the fact that it is apparently overestimating my speed is not super great since I ride with others and need to match speed.

Question: When I plug the charger into the charge port on the bike I find the connection to be very loose. It will fall out if I move the charger or cable. Is that normal for this model?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Hi, When I plug in there is a definite click that you know it is in place. I would have your dealer look at that.
 
Thanks to both of you for the replies. Sounds like I may need to have it looked at. Gotta take it in anyway bc one of the brake likes is pinched (from the factory).
 
Has anyone upgraded yet to the EMTB from the Sport setting and do you like it? I have a 2021 Allant+7 Lowstep (and love it!)
 
retiredNH said:
Years ago (decades, actually) spouse and I had a delayed honeymoon at Rocky Mt. NP in mid October. We were one of 3 campers in a 300 site campground, and heard elk bugling every night. The place was deserted. This year, they're requiring reservations through October 11! Trail Ridge road there would be another great ride, though. The NPS claims it's a 4000 foot climb, but no grade greater than 7%. Considering I just did 1500 feet of climbing (according to my bike) using about 13% of the battery, it might be doable!
Click to expand...
Hello! I was looking back through the posts to see if there were any other posts about battery removal and saw your post about RMNP. I live in Estes Park and ride up there a lot. I found with the Trek you have to have either a 2nd battery or the add on battery. While not really steep, the constant uphill drains out the battery. From my house I can get to Hidden Valley on regular Trail Ridge road with two bars left to insure I get home. I tried to ride up to Bear Lake road next ride and I got to Glacier Gorge parking which is just two short switchbacks from the top. I probably could have made it and had one bar to get home. I'll try that again next summer. I've also ridden up old Fall River Road dirt and gotten to just above Timberline. I pushed that ride to one bar left and did still make it back home on "fumes"!! I would like to ride up and over the top to Grand Lake but it will take two batteries for sure!! Hey if you ever come back to visit RMNP look me up here or on Facebook and we will ride up there together!! Tailwinds!! Jim Bangs
 
MrsE said:
Has anyone upgraded yet to the EMTB from the Sport setting and do you like it? I have a 2021 Allant+7 Lowstep (and love it!)
Click to expand...
I wasn’t aware that you can perform this update, but it is something I might consider doing … now that I have experienced the EMTB mode on my new Powerfly 9.

I expected it to be good for off road (brilliant actually) but it has surprised me that I am finding I prefer it on paved trails, too. It simplifies the ride by not only eliminating assist changes (for uphill downhills) but also reduces shifting gears because you can pull a higher gear uphill with the extra assist.

So I end up averaging a faster speed and find this enjoyable except that I have to ride just under the assist cutoff of 20 mph. This is relatively easy to do by matching the right gear to your cadence for about 18-19 mph speed.

My Allant *8S is a class 3 (28 mph) so would really be perfect for EMTB mode, I think.

Tim
 
May I know if the allant+7s comes with tubeless tires or with tube?
I just ordered my bike online and is forward planning for when I go touring if I should switch to tubeless for ease of puncture repair?
 
It seems okay to me…though I’ll let my guests ride on a better one on my shelf. Get used to the bike first, move the seat front/back…tilt etc.
I am also adding Ergon 3 cork grips with a Mirracycle mirror hanging down from the bar end.
 
tpete61 said:
I have the extended range battery pack rather than a second power tube. I'm happy with the setup. You mount both batteries where they belong when starting your ride. Just ride all you want until both batteries are depleted.
I can't think of any negatives other than doing the install myself. The install is a PITA due to virtually nowhere to stuff the excess wiring harness.
Click to expand...
When using the bike does it drain both battery at the same time? I assume the only way to charge both battery at the same time is to charge through the bike?
 
JustinJX said:
When using the bike does it drain both battery at the same time? I assume the only way to charge both battery at the same time is to charge through the bike?
Click to expand...
I have read it alternates between the batteries every 5% or so (I don’t remember the exact percentage.)
 
I believe it uses both alternately and then charges each individually on the bike
 
I am new member from Tucson AZ. home of the Tucson loop. 54 miles of paved bike trails around the city.
6 weeks ago I bought a trek Allant+7. I have about 300 miles on it now. I do like the bike a lot. smooth, comfortable and good power.
there is one strange problem I am having that I don't have an answer for maybe someone has seen this before. After I have been riding a couple of miles there is a squeak which appears to come from my pedal area. it comes from the same spot my foot is at at each revaluation. it doesn't matter which gear I am in or which mode I am in. when I stop pedaling it stops. so it not from the tires. it will come ang go as I ride. The Pedals are both fine and turn freely. My chain is lubed. I am at loss as to what might be causing it. it is very obvious.
Has anyone seen something similar?
thanks,
Sta
 
Dallant said:
Congrats! Sometimes great things do just fall into your lap!😎
Click to expand...
Only problem with the Allant7s that I have encountered is the 9th gear on the derailer was worn out and under pressure the chain will slip I have the bike for 2 months and have put on 900 plus miles.I talked to both the dealer and trek directly and they both told me if I only ride in the highest gear and push over 75rpm then the gear will wear out. I replaced the gears and I am hoping that I don't have replace them every 2 months.Any advice to increase time between gear replacement would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Tanker51 said:
Any advice to increase time between gear replacement would be appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
  • Maintain the chain, and replace it when the wear exceeds the 0.5% mark
  • Use the lower assistance modes, hence ride in lower gears
  • While in lower gears, practice to increase your cadence (it will help you maintain good speed while in lower gears)
  • Use the derailleur proactively, that is, downshift, say, three gears down before any planned stop (e.g. intersection) and gradually upshift when your e-bike gets the speed.
There is no other way to protect the smallest cassette cogs except using them less. The use of the highest gear is typically reserved for pedalling downhill.
 
Tanker51 said:
Only problem with the Allant7s that I have encountered is the 9th gear on the derailer was worn out and under pressure the chain will slip I have the bike for 2 months and have put on 900 plus miles.I talked to both the dealer and trek directly and they both told me if I only ride in the highest gear and push over 75rpm then the gear will wear out. I replaced the gears and I am hoping that I don't have replace them every 2 months.Any advice to increase time between gear replacement would be appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
What is your riding style? Fast as possible? What is your terrain? Flat? If both of these are true, then your choices are two: suck it up and pay for the new gear on a regular basis or slow down and use a different gear.

Anyone who uses turbo a lot can expect more drive train wear. You may have been misled by the RPM comment, though. It's not the RPM, it's the force on the chain. If you were to do 90 RPM but not be pushing hard, your drive train wear would not be high.
 
s-k said:
I am new member from Tucson AZ. home of the Tucson loop. 54 miles of paved bike trails around the city.
6 weeks ago I bought a trek Allant+7. I have about 300 miles on it now. I do like the bike a lot. smooth, comfortable and good power.
there is one strange problem I am having that I don't have an answer for maybe someone has seen this before. After I have been riding a couple of miles there is a squeak which appears to come from my pedal area. it comes from the same spot my foot is at at each revaluation. it doesn't matter which gear I am in or which mode I am in. when I stop pedaling it stops. so it not from the tires. it will come ang go as I ride. The Pedals are both fine and turn freely. My chain is lubed. I am at loss as to what might be causing it. it is very obvious.
Has anyone seen something similar?
thanks,
Sta
Click to expand...
Given that you have indicated that your chain and drivetrain is well lubed, no apparent problems with pedals, and that this occurs at the same point on every rotation of the cranks, I would suggest it may be linked to either:
  • Cranks
  • Bottom-bracket
  • Pedal bearings
First try spinning the pedals on the axis of their spindle to ensure the spin smoothly and approximately equal on both pedals.

Next check the cranks. Try pulling each crank gently outward to see if it has any play or movement. If it does it might simply need to be tightened with a hex torque wrench (to the manufacturer's recommended torque).

If it is not the cranks, it could be something with the bottom bracket. Unless you are skilled bike mechanic, I'd recommend going to a pro to look at the bottom bracket.

This site might have some useful tips for troubleshooting the sound:

Creaks, Clicks & Clunks...

Diagnosing and curing strange noises from your bicycle.
sheldonbrown.com
 
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