Yet another CCX owner

I did it like this: I didn't use a level, and I guessed at the tube midpoints, so when I say I got 60cm, it was probably plus or minus 0.8 mm or so.


1546030603737.png
 
PeteH said:
Good idea. I measured my XL and it's the same as the table, +- 60mm. The table says that if someone measures the M they're supposed to get +- 57 mm.

I think the only possible way it could be different would be if the head tube length or fork length is different -- but from all the photos I've seen, they're the same. Notice that the wheelbase, seat tube angle, chainstay length, and head tube angles are all the same. With a little analysis you can see that the head tube/top tube intersection MUST be the at the same height (which agrees with handlebar height spec) And since the seat tube angle is the same, and the bottom brackets are in the same place, the horizontal distance from the seatpost to the intersection has to be the same.

Of course, experiment trumps theory. So it would be great if someone measured it, and maybe checked the wheelbase as well.
Click to expand...

You bring up good points about wheelbase, chainstay length, head angle, handlebar height and seat tube angle all being the same, yes I agree the EFF seems like it would be the same. Perhaps one of these other quoted measurements isnt 100% correct. Doesnt seem like it would have to be off by much.

My bike has been shipped....yeah
 
PeteH said:
I did it like this: I didn't use a level, and I guessed at the tube midpoints, so when I say I got 60cm, it was probably plus or minus 0.8 mm or so.


View attachment 28453
Click to expand...


Just measured it. My Large CCX is 59cm at the two points you have identified above. It was dead-on 59cm but I didn't use a level and eye-balled the center of each endpoint. If our measurements are correct then there is a 1cm difference in Effective Top Tube length between the XL and L CCX frames with everything else other than the seat post height being the same.
 
SirJonathan said:
Just measured it. My Large CCX is 59cm at the two points you have identified above. It was dead-on 59cm but I didn't use a level and eye-balled the center of each endpoint. If our measurements are correct then there is a 1cm difference in Effective Top Tube length between the XL and L CCX frames with everything else other than the seat post height being the same.
Click to expand...

Interesting.... The table says it's supposed to be 58.4 for the L vs 60.2 for the XL, nearly 2 cm different. I checked again, still getting 60 cm for my XL.

Is it possible that some of the other measurements in the table are off, like the wheelbase, which is supposed to be 1100mm? And possibly the seat tube angle is a little steeper on the smaller frames, event though it's quoted as the same 73 degrees -- very hard to measure that. The seat post length itself shouldn't matter -- just the angle.
 
More likely my ineptitude to take an exact measurement. I could easily be half a centimeter off. Just a quarter of a centimeter on each end of trying to determine the exact center of each end point would account for that.
 
SirJonathan said:
More likely my ineptitude to take an exact measurement. I could easily be half a centimeter off. Just a quarter of a centimeter on each end of trying to determine the exact center of each end point would account for that.
Click to expand...

No need to do anymore of this on my account guys.

You measurement could be off simply due to the fork raising the front end when unloaded which would slacken the seat tube angle a bit making your measurement just a bit longer

And therein is the problem with this measurement, its kindof a old school measurement (stack/reach are newer/similar but not without their limitations as well). Its nice when all 3 are available.

In the end, for me, the 10mm difference is pretty insignificant and can easily be made up with a 10mm longer stem if need be.
 
Agree with you. I was doing it to see for myself as well - I was interested how much of a difference there really was between the frame sizes.
 
Well, the surly knard 700cx41 gravel tires I bought appear to be a mistake if someone wants to run tubeless. From other helpful juiced bikes posts(with pics), it seems apparent that the rims have a nice lip for tubeless bead retention but the knard tires dont seem to have a well defined bead to take advantage of that. Going to the surly website and reading questions on this tire, surly specifically says that this tire is not designed to be run tubeless.

So I ordered a set of WTB resolute 700cx42 tires and from what I can tell, it has a nice bead for retention. I see alot of guys running these tires where I ride so I think I will like them although Im not a fan of skinwall tires these days. If I can run these tires at 45psi I will be happy. A flat black CCX with skinwalls will look interesting...kindof a retro ebike

Ill post pics of these tires with chainstay clearance when I get it all setup, most CCS/CCX pics I have see on this are with tires without outer knobbies
 
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LInklemming - you're going to remove that back wheel? Please let us know how that goes. I watched the Juiced video on it and it seemed rather straightforward - although the guy removing it probably had done it 100 times already. My experiences always seem much worse - even following along step by step.

Did you purchase that socket wrench with the cutout for the motor cable from Juiced? I thought about it. Eventually I will have to remove that rear wheel and it would be better to have that tool than have to order it and wait a few days. I was hoping to improvise, however, rather than buy a one-time use specialty tool for $20.
 
Jonathan, an 18mm gear wrench works well. You can buy one on ebay just the 18mm for a good price + free ship. A gear wrench will last you a lifetime and is good on a lot of automotive bolts too. A regular 18mm box wrench will suffice too.
 
Cool. I have a tool set with most standard and metric wrenches. I was concerned you couldn't torque the nut down enough or release it with the loctite they have on the threads. Looks like you just saved me $20!
 
I'm interested what lemming's gonna do with those marathon plus tires he'll have hanging on a hook for the rest of his life.
 
Yeah, I mangled up the stock rear wheel nut using an open-ended wrench. Tora sent me a new nut for free. It can be done if you’re really careful but I ended up buying the wrench that Juiced Bikes sells for future use.
 
Got the CCX today around noon, not a scratch I can see on it from shipping. Love the flat black. Would have gone with the bare aluminum if it didnt have the big Juiced Sticker on the side(I want to have a stealth look).

Im very impressed with the bike, not quite the same level of quality as my Bulls eMTB but Im not complaining at all as it cost $1k less.

Removing the rear fender was a PITA but I intended to remove the rear wheel for tire change anyways which made it easier. No issues just using a 18mm offset 12 point box end wrench to remove the rear wheel.

Had alot of issues getting the 700cx42 WTB resolute tires to work tubeless, finally after 3 layers of 22mm gorilla tape, I got it to seal. The front tire was fine but the rear tire had all sort of weeping and the stans sealant couldnt seem to get a handle on it as I think there is a defect in that tire, there was a noticable 1 inch section in the sidewall with multiple holes(near the tread) that just wouldnt seal at anything above around 35psi, so after about 6 hours of nursing it, I just gave up and put in a tube with stans in the tube. I have been doing this over 10 years without issue anyways so no biggie, I will just run this setup till I wear out these tires and possibly the surly knards till they are bald as well. Tire wasnt as wide as I was hoping for coming out at 40mm wide, I can fit a pinkie between the tire and chainstay so I will definately go wider at a later date.

Installing a 42t surly stainless front chainring was a piece of cake.

After slamming the stem (flipped stem and moved all spacers from below to above stem), I think the L frame is going to work just fine.

Just need to shorten the chain tomorrow and it will be ready for a ride
 
linklemming said:
Got the CCX today around noon, not a scratch I can see on it from shipping. Love the flat black. Would have gone with the bare aluminum if it didnt have the big Juiced Sticker on the side(I want to have a stealth look).

Im very impressed with the bike, not quite the same level of quality as my Bulls eMTB but Im not complaining at all as it cost $1k less.

Removing the rear fender was a PITA but I intended to remove the rear wheel for tire change anyways which made it easier. No issues just using a 18mm offset 12 point box end wrench to remove the rear wheel.

Had alot of issues getting the 700cx42 WTB resolute tires to work tubeless, finally after 3 layers of 22mm gorilla tape, I got it to seal. The front tire was fine but the rear tire had all sort of weeping and the stans sealant couldnt seem to get a handle on it as I think there is a defect in that tire, there was a noticable 1 inch section in the sidewall with multiple holes(near the tread) that just wouldnt seal at anything above around 35psi, so after about 6 hours of nursing it, I just gave up and put in a tube with stans in the tube. I have been doing this over 10 years without issue anyways so no biggie, I will just run this setup till I wear out these tires and possibly the surly knards till they are bald as well. Tire wasnt as wide as I was hoping for coming out at 40mm wide, I can fit a pinkie between the tire and chainstay so I will definately go wider at a later date.

Installing a 42t surly stainless front chainring was a piece of cake.

After slamming the stem (flipped stem and moved all spacers from below to above stem), I think the L frame is going to work just fine.

Just need to shorten the chain tomorrow and it will be ready for a ride
Click to expand...
I would love to see a photo of the stem and spacer modification. Don't know what you mean by "L" frame?
 
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