Yet another CCX owner

Another soon to be CCX owner, ordered it as a christmas present for myself.

I work from home so dont really need it for commuting (I agree its really well setup for this).

Im basically going to turn it into a gravel bike. I have never really understood the whole gravel bike thing as I think a rigid MTB is better for that
purpose. Silly road bikers trying to do something new! No offense to any road bikers, I did it for many years until I saw the light of MTBs.

Anywho, mods to the CCX will be

Gravel Oriented Tires (Surly Knard 700cx41 tires), some reviews show them at 46mm wide.
Going to try tubeless again (used it several time on MTBs and went back to tubes with stans due to burping issues eventually causing a bad crash, tubes/stans has worked well over 10 years i.e. no flats on my MTBs)
42T front chainring - lots of hills where I live and I find 42x11 works well enough, usually when Im going this fast its downhills anyways.
Remove Rack/Fenders/Lights - I want it as minimal as possible and have my own high powered offroad lights collection and rear lights
Considering a rigid front fork.

Basically this is going to be equivalent to my curent DIY speed pedelec 'gravel bike', a 94GT zaskar MTB with 52V TSDZ2 mid-drive conversion running opensource software,
rigid front fork, Conti Traffic 26x2.1 tires (width actually measures 46mm). While I like this bike alot, the TSDZ2 can be a little noisy and the mid-drive while
working up to 30mph probably isnt the most efficient at higher speeds.

I almost went with a 2017 Raleigh Redux IE or IZIP Moda(same basic bike) with brose motor which I can get locally for $2200. I LOVE the silent brose motor on my Bulls eMTB but want to go with the larger battery on the CCX.
Hey CCX GUYS- has anyone tried a 32-11t chainring yet?
 
Well, Im coming up at about 4k miles now. The odometer reset at some point so I lost track but I keep track on all my rides thru my garmin anyhow.

I installed a different handlebar(origin 8 strongbow) to allow me to get 'more aero' when I encounter brutal headwinds. 'Dramatic' improvement when needed.
I also needed a different stem since this handlebar has no rise, I finall settled on a salsa guide 100mm/25 degree rise stem

Chainwear is pretty good with the replacement chain "KMC X9.93 9-Speed Bike Chain", alot better than the 1500 miles i got with the stock KMC chain.
Im at about 2500 miles now on this chain now and still dont have alot of stretch. Im guessing I can get another 1k on this chain (I will update this post
once I replace the chain if I still have the bike)

Went thru another set of rear pads. The stock pads (tektro A10.11 metallic) seem really hard to find in the US. Replacing them with organic pads (E10.11)
which are available everywhere seems like a safety issue given the speed capabilities of this bike.

I just bought a set of Tektro P20.11 metallic rear pads and replaced them. Turned out to be quite a fiasco.

The problem is, the pads just rub like crazy after doing the typical loosen caliber bolts/squeeze brake/tighten the caliber mounting bolts.
Even slight tweaing afterwards just doesnt work like on other bikes.

After literally 4 hours trying to get the pads not to rub, I decided to attempt fix the problems.

Its obvious that the caliber is not square with the rotor both by looking at the caliber/rotor gaps both front/back and side/side.
How they ever got a rub free alignment at the factory is beyond me. The wear patterns on the old pads confirm this.

FWIW, The rotor is very true probably the best of the 7 bikes I currently own.

Step1: Make sure that paint on the frame is not causing an alignment issue(it doesnt take much to have an issue). I removed the caliber and mounting
bracket from the frame and used boxcutters to carefully remove all paint from the frame mounting points. I saw an improvement but needed alot more.

Step2: Make the caliber square with the rotor. Decided the best approach was to put the mounting bracket(which is replaceble) in a vice and bend it
as needed with a wrench/pliers. The front and rear posts needed different tweaking but I finally got the pads to be square with the rotor.

HUGE improvement but a new problem emerged

As I tightened the caliber mounting bolts(with brakes applied), the caliber would shift inwards. I spent several hours trying to negate this and
nothing seemed to work (Im guessing something isnt perfectly flat). What finally worked was putting a feeler (0.762mm) gauge between the inside
pad and the rotor and holding the brake lever down while tightening the caliber mounting bolts. This works...just barely.

Another issue as mentioned before in other posts, the threads just seem badly threaded as if the taps/dies at the factory need to be replaced. After about 10 iterations of trying
to remount the caliber, I felt like I was crossthreading so I pulled out my tap/dies and cleaned up the threads and all was well.

So the bottom line is I got it to work after a solid 6 hours of troubleshooting (none of my other bikes have ever required this).

I will try using rotor spacers in a few days to see if this makes things better, perhaps moving the rotor farther out will allow for a more square caliber/bracket interface.
 
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Well, Im coming up at about 4k miles now. The odometer reset at some point so I lost track but I keep track on all my rides thru my garmin anyhow.

I installed a different handlebar(origin 8 strongbow) to allow me to get 'more aero' when I encounter brutal headwinds. 'Dramatic' improvement when needed.
I also needed a different stem since this handlebar has no rise, I finall settled on a salsa guide 100mm/25 degree rise stem

Chainwear is pretty good with the replacement chain "KMC X9.93 9-Speed Bike Chain", alot better than the 1500 miles i got with the stock KMC chain.
Im at about 2500 miles now on this chain now and still dont have alot of stretch. Im guessing I can get another 1k on this chain (I will update this post
once I replace the chain if I still have the bike)

Went thru another set of rear pads. The stock pads (tektro A10.11 metallic) seem really hard to find in the US. Replacing them with organic pads (E10.11)
which are available everywhere seems like a safety issue given the speed capabilities of this bike.

I just bought a set of Tektro P20.11 metallic rear pads and replaced them. Turned out to be quite a fiasco.

The problem is, the pads just rub like crazy after doing the typical loosen caliber bolts/squeeze brake/tighten the caliber mounting bolts.
Even slight tweaing afterwards just doesnt work like on other bikes.

After literally 4 hours trying to get the pads not to rub, I decided to attempt fix the problems.

Its obvious that the caliber is not square with the rotor both by looking at the caliber/rotor gaps both front/back and side/side.
How they ever got a rub free alignment at the factory is beyond me. The wear patterns on the old pads confirm this.

FWIW, The rotor is very true probably the best of the 7 bikes I currently own.

Step1: Make sure that paint on the frame is not causing an alignment issue(it doesnt take much to have an issue). I removed the caliber and mounting
bracket from the frame and used boxcutters to carefully remove all paint from the frame mounting points. I saw an improvement but needed alot more.

Step2: Make the caliber square with the rotor. Decided the best approach was to put the mounting bracket(which is replaceble) in a vice and bend it
as needed with a wrench/pliers. The front and rear posts needed different tweaking but I finally got the pads to be square with the rotor.

HUGE improvement but a new problem emerged

As I tightened the caliber mounting bolts(with brakes applied), the caliber would shift inwards. I spent several hours trying to negate this and
nothing seemed to work (Im guessing something isnt perfectly flat). What finally worked was putting a feeler (0.762mm) gauge between the inside
pad and the rotor and holding the brake lever down while tightening the caliber mounting bolts. This works...just barely.

Another issue as mentioned before in other posts, the threads just seem badly threaded as if the taps/dies at the factory need to be replaced. After about 10 iterations of trying
to remount the caliber, I felt like I was crossthreading so I pulled out my tap/dies and cleaned up the threads and all was well.

So the bottom line is I got it to work after a solid 6 hours of troubleshooting (none of my other bikes have ever required this).

I will try using rotor spacers in a few days to see if this makes things better, perhaps moving the rotor farther out will allow for a more square caliber/bracket interface.
Interesting, did you have this problem both front and rear? I would assume something got bent if it was just one or the other, but not both. I'm on my 4th set of brake pads, and have not had any issues whatsoever. I'm using semi-metallic pads and getting ~3000 miles per set. These are the ones I'm using in case you want to try them. Braking performance is great, I did not notice any change from the original factory pads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGBQJ4Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Interesting, did you have this problem both front and rear? I would assume something got bent if it was just one or the other, but not both. I'm on my 4th set of brake pads, and have not had any issues whatsoever. I'm using semi-metallic pads and getting ~3000 miles per set. These are the ones I'm using in case you want to try them. Braking performance is great, I did not notice any change from the original factory pads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGBQJ4Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only had the problem on the rear, front has been fine. The front does have post mounts on the fork which would take alot of effort to tweak.

Thanks for the link to the pads, so many options on amazon and you never know what is good or not. The tektro P20.11 pads I bought work just the same as the stock pads as far as I can tell.

I few more notes:

I didnt mention that I changed the chain lube from the original chain. Originally I used tri flow as I have done for the last 20 or so years. Only issue with tri-flow was the caked on gunk on the derailler jockey wheels. I then ran Boeshield T9 for about 1500 miles and loved how clean it left the jockey wheels but one of my ebikes (Brose equipped iZip Moda E3) was always really noisy with this lube...I actually thought at one point the motor was going bad. I recently started using Squirt Lube and must say I like it more than Boeshield. I definately notice quieter chains and more miles before needing to reapply. Jockey wheels also stay clean although not quite as good as boeshield.

Im not a fan of the CCX frame seatpost tube which requires a shim. Its a source of constant maintenance and noise. The shim is about 0.9mmthick so the overall seatpost diameter is 31.6mm + 1.8 = 33.4mm. so no available seatposts can be found to eliminate the shim. Usually every 300 or so miles requires me to clean and regrease the post and shim. I am trying antiseize at the moment to see if that works better.

I never liked the stock CCX grips which always caused the outside of my hands to go numb, so I replaced them with Specialized Countour Grips in the largest size. I spent a month or so trying all kinds of different grips(8 pairs), finally settling on the specialized grips

Here is a pic of the origin 8 strongbow handlebar cut down to around 700mm. It has a 17degree or so sweepback, no upsweep and the center section allows hand positions to get really aero. Many of my rides encounter winds up to 30mph and getting aero really helps. I did need a new stem as mentioned in previous post(salsa guide 100mm 25 degree rise).

IMG_20200822_214904.jpg
 
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Im not a fan of the CCX frame seatpost tube which requires a shim. Its a source of constant maintenance and noise. The shim is about 0.9mmthick so the overall seatpost diameter is 31.6mm + 1.8 = 33.4mm. so no available seatposts can be found to eliminate the shim. Usually every 300 or so miles requires me to clean and regrease the post and shim. I am trying antiseize at the moment to see if that works better.

I never liked the stock CCX grips which always caused the outside of my hands to go numb, so I replaced them with Specialized Countour Grips in the largest size. I spent a month or so trying all kinds of different grips(8 pairs), finally settling on the specialized grips

Here is a pic of the origin 8 strongbow handlebar cut down to around 700mm.

@linklemming I second your thoughts on seat post shim (have also been using grease) and stock grips. My CCS2 came with the throttle mounted to the left of the display and I had considered swapping positions as my intuition was the throttle would fit underneath the display. Your picture validates that thought. How do you like that positioning? Is it an awkward reach to get to the throttle?
 
@linklemming I second your thoughts on seat post shim (have also been using grease) and stock grips. My CCS2 came with the throttle mounted to the left of the display and I had considered swapping positions as my intuition was the throttle would fit underneath the display. Your picture validates that thought. How do you like that positioning? Is it an awkward reach to get to the throttle?

Im not a big throttle user. I have big hands so its not much of a reach for my thumb although if I did it for a long time I might think otherwise. If I really want to use throttle for awhile, I just engage the cruise control. If I leave the throttle on the outside of the display, the display interferes with some hand positions on the front of the bar
 
Im not a big throttle user. I have big hands so its not much of a reach for my thumb although if I did it for a long time I might think otherwise. If I really want to use throttle for awhile, I just engage the cruise control. If I leave the throttle on the outside of the display, the display interferes with some hand positions on the front of the bar
@linklemming Makes sense. Not a big throttle user either, occasional short burst, usually only if showing someone the bike capabilities. Cheers.
 
Quite a fiasco with the rear brake getting it not to rub. As I have mentioned before I got it to work but it was barely adequate and not something I want to do often. FWIW, I have worked on /built bikes since 1994. Also played with cars at the track(turbo miata) so Im no stranger to wrenching. Im no ace mechanic but I get things done.

I have 5 other disc equipped bikes and none have this issue.

The problem seemed to be when tightening the rear caliber, the caliber would shift inwards..it would actually 'pop' into place. I finally got it to barely work with a feeler gauge in between a pad and the rotor while also applying the brake lever while tightening the caliber. I was worried, it would pop while out riding so I wanted to fix the issue.

I 'speculated' that shimming the rotor out 'might' solve the problem so I bought some 0.2mm disk rotor shims.

Got the shims yesterday so decided to try them.

Unbolting the rotor revealed something horrendous ...several of the bolts were actually bent. As such removing them pretty much ruined the bolt holes and you could see big aluminum slivers on the removed bolts. In addition, the bolts were shorter than typical m5x10 rotor bolts at about 8.5mm to account for the shallow bolt holes in the hub motor (holes were about 9.6mm). The rotor is about 2mm thick. Not much room for thread engagement in soft aluminum.

I had some existing m5x10mm rotor bolts so I paired them with 2 0.2mm rotor shims for a total thickness of 0.4mm. I was able to bolt all this up but 3 of the 6 bolts (with blue loctite) were basically stripped. That being said, I bolted it all up and adjusted the calibers and BINGO, it worked well. Easiest caliber alignment ever for this bike.

I decided to check the threads on the removed bolts by running a die over them and the stock threads were just garbage, the term 'horrendous' comes to mind.

This is of course, not safe so I decided to fix the stripped holes with helicoils.

Initially tried to use the existing hole depth and it was just too shallow to get a helicoil to work. Hard to go into all the details, but after trying 5 different things(and 10 inserts) I decided I needed to disassemble the motor and drill the holes thru the hub to have enough hole depth.

Disassembling the hub motor is pretty easy but you need torx security bits (basically a torx bit with a hole in the middle). Luckily I had these so I disassembled the motor. While seperating the motor/a shim(15mmx19mm.0.2mm) used to preload a ball bearing was destroyed (see video by grin technologies when they disassemble a bafang).

This video gives a good descriotion

Once I seperated the motor, drilling the holes thru/tapping and inserting the helicoils was pretty easy although I did have to modify the plastic insertion tool with a dremel for clearance. as there was a step that wouldnt allow the tool to sit flush.

After all that, helicoils were inserted super easy. Had to be super careful to make sure no leftover metal fragments to get caught in the gears.

So the only thing left at this point is to get yet more rotor bolts (many were ruined while doing all of this). get some lithium grease to relube the gears and find a replacement for the destroyed shim. Luckily there appears to a shim that will work used in the RC car industry (15mmx18mmx0.2mm).

So, basically waiting for lithium grease and shims, will update once I get those.
 
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I received the shim and lithium grease and got it all put back together.

For future refencence, the shim is "Axial Racing AX31269 Shim 18x15x0.2mm" I got mine thru amazon.

Adding new lithium grease did quiet the motor a bit.

FWIW, if you want to replace your motor, you dont have to buy a complete wheel assembly from Juiced, you can just buy the motor and replace the innards. Dont be scared off by this, its really super simple. The motor disassembles into two parts and the part that stays on the wheel is just the outer aluminum hub with wheel bearing and fixed aluminum gears which should never wear as they mesh with nylon gears.

Here is a source of parts. No idea if this vendor is any good.
https://hilleater.ca/parts/hub-motors/
 
Well, I now have about 3k miles on the chain and the stretch still seemed ok due to a shimano stretch gauge.

Something I started noticing a few weeks ago was that the chain had started to catch on the cassette when setting/backpedaling the pedals at a stoplight. This has been progressively getting worse. The chain also started skipping like the shifter cable needed adjustment. No amount of fidding with limit screw/cable adjustments would fix it.

Problem1: The chain had a tight link, causing the skipping. No amount of trying to loosen the link by tweaking the chain sideways would fix it. Note that this had to be done in the old days before master links when you reattached a chain. So chain replaced. I also regreased the lower jockey wheel, the upper seemed fine but this was wrong (see below)

Skipping went away, yeah! Still had the issue of the chain catching when backpedaling, it got so bad I couldnt set my pedals anymore and had to rely on the throttle to take off at stoplights. Last thing I want to do is use the throttle😀

Problem2: The upper jockey wheel was very hard to rotate. Cleaned/greased it and all seems ok now

Dont neglect your jockey wheels!!
 
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Well its time to sell the CCX since I did a DIY build with a GMAC motor and it just rips, 4 ebikes is too much even for me.

Been almost 2 years and about 4200 miles trouble free miles in conditions it was never designed for (mild offroad gravel rides).

While lubing the jockey wheels did improve the issues I was having (cassette wasnt totally smooth when backpedaling), the issue turned out to be a sticky cassette freehub. Unfortunately its not a standard freehub but is bafang specific.

I have ordered the following replacement
https://hilleater.ca/bafang-cassette-freewheel-and-side-cover-assembly-swx02-rm020/

I also think this sidecover/freehub would work
https://www.greenbikekit.com/access...ike-rmg06-motor-cover-with-cassette-base.html

Since this link for a freewheel version implies it is compatible with the RMG06 fat bike hub motor
https://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-8fun-bldc-hub-motor-covers-for-replacement.html

You might have to find a new dust seal thats sits just inside the tip of the freehub body. Should be a standard shimano seal as long as you know the correct ID and OD. My dust seal was in perfect shape although there was a gap between it and the axle. Due to the sealed design of the freehub body, I dont think this gap means anything.

I decided to service my existing freehub anyways just to have it as a backup for the next owner.

The freehub is mounted to the sidecover with small phillips head screws with loctite. Best to use an impact driver if you have one but I got the screws hot with a torch to loosen the loctite and then used a JIS #2 screwdriver which seemed to fit perfect.

For those unfamiliar with JIS vs Phillips, here is a link
https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anything/difference-between-japanese-jis-phillips.html

Soaked the freehub body in simple green/water for a few hours while keeping it warm on the stove to facilitate grease breakdown, then dipped it in rubbing alcohol to displace the water and let it sit in an oven at low temp to cook off the alcohol. Then let in soak in 90wt transmission oil for a few hours and then let it all drain off.

Probably my last post on this CCX, it was a good companion for 2 years
 
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I finally converted the CCX back to a commuter bike (from a gravel bike) a few weeks ago (put on original tires which had zero miles, fenders, rear rack, new chain and front chainring back to a 52t from a 42t) and took it for a spin.

I must say, the CCX really excels in stock form. It feels so much better on paved surfaces with the 45c tires at 60psi compared to the 2.1/2.3 MTB/cross tires I was running at 30psi. Perhaps it was the 52t chainring (more power from torque sensor and lower cadence). Anywho, it just felt so effortless to cruise along at 25-28mph.

After experiencing a slightly cracked rear rim on another bike (still rode fine but you could see stress cracks), I checked the CCX and same thing.

Didnt want to replace spokes so I searched for a rim that appeared to have the same measurement (height was 20.5mm). While this isnt the end all of finding a replacement rim (knowing the ERD is), I figured it would be close enough and it turned out to be the case for the rim I picked.

Finding a 36h 700c/29 quality rim with 36h and inner width of 19mm seemed impossible.

So anyone looking to replace their rims, the velocity USA cliffhanger looks to be a pretty stout 700c/29 36h rim with height of 21.6mm and ERD of 597. The inner width is 25mm which should still be fine for the stock 45c tires yet work well for wider MTB tires (2.1-2.3)
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/cliff-hanger-622

I did drill out the presta valve hole to 9mm to use a schrader valve.

After building the wheel up, no exposed threads on any spokes and about 1mm or so gap between bottom of screwdriver slot on nipple and top of spoke.
 
Only had the problem on the rear, front has been fine. The front does have post mounts on the fork which would take alot of effort to tweak.

Thanks for the link to the pads, so many options on amazon and you never know what is good or not. The tektro P20.11 pads I bought work just the same as the stock pads as far as I can tell.

I few more notes:

I didnt mention that I changed the chain lube from the original chain. Originally I used tri flow as I have done for the last 20 or so years. Only issue with tri-flow was the caked on gunk on the derailler jockey wheels. I then ran Boeshield T9 for about 1500 miles and loved how clean it left the jockey wheels but one of my ebikes (Brose equipped iZip Moda E3) was always really noisy with this lube...I actually thought at one point the motor was going bad. I recently started using Squirt Lube and must say I like it more than Boeshield. I definately notice quieter chains and more miles before needing to reapply. Jockey wheels also stay clean although not quite as good as boeshield.

Im not a fan of the CCX frame seatpost tube which requires a shim. Its a source of constant maintenance and noise. The shim is about 0.9mmthick so the overall seatpost diameter is 31.6mm + 1.8 = 33.4mm. so no available seatposts can be found to eliminate the shim. Usually every 300 or so miles requires me to clean and regrease the post and shim. I am trying antiseize at the moment to see if that works better.

I never liked the stock CCX grips which always caused the outside of my hands to go numb, so I replaced them with Specialized Countour Grips in the largest size. I spent a month or so trying all kinds of different grips(8 pairs), finally settling on the specialized grips

Here is a pic of the origin 8 strongbow handlebar cut down to around 700mm. It has a 17degree or so sweepback, no upsweep and the center section allows hand positions to get really aero. Many of my rides encounter winds up to 30mph and getting aero really helps. I did need a new stem as mentioned in previous post(salsa guide 100mm 25 degree rise).

View attachment 63212
I too replaced the stock bars with a wonderful origin 8 strongbow. The inner grips really do cut down on wind resistance greatly especially when cruising at higher speeds. I seem I'm not the only one who prefers to tuck the throttle under the controls. I find the only time I'm using the throttle is to get off the line when crossing or riding in traffic so this works better for me. Picked up 2 CCX for my wife and I and couldn't be happier yet so far. Only was able to put about 400 miles of mixed riding on it before I stashed it away for winter.
 

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The Juiced CCX found a new home today with my next door neighbor. Its been sitting in the garage since my last post

He bought a ride1up core 5 about 1.5 weeks ago and found out that he likes to ride as much as me (already 300miles). The core5 motor is quite noisy and the 500wh battery can be limiting for range and he likes to pedal and get exercise so minimal throttle use. The core5 is quite good for a $1k ebike but a $1k ebike leaves alot to be desired. We discussed doing a Surly/GMAC build like I have outlined in the DIY section but decided the CCX would be better at this point in time. He considers the CCX to be quite a step of from the core5.

A grin CA/phaserunner/GMAC motor might be in his future.
 
Not much more to post these days since I dont own the bike anymore but the new owner has done quite alot of upgrades for its mostly gravel oriented riding.

Shock Upgrade to Rockshox Recon 100mm fork
Shimano Deore M6100 brakes (no brake cutouts, the new owner hated these on the stock CCX just like I did. Might not be a good idea depending on your skillset.)
GMAC kit from hilleater.ca
KInekt Seatpost
SRAM 9 speed x5 mid cage derailler and shifter (the stock CCX shimano altus derailler is horrible at maintaining chain tension)

I am 'very impressed' with the Hilleater GMAC kit. All the wiring is plug and play and makes for a pretty clean setup. I especially like the Hilleater replacement torquearm and bracket to bolt it to the kickstand mount. All the cycle analyst and frankenrunner setup is already done. Installed by someone new to working on bikes (although I provided alot of assistance) in less than half a day (including new brake replacement/installation which had several issues).

Need to figure out a more elegant frankenrunner mount (not sure the grin solution will work for the CCX). Will probably convert to a phaserunner in the long term.

The bike initially had some surging which got worse with higher cadence. The fix was to add a spacer between the motor and frame on the drivetrain side to gain more cadence sensor clearance
 

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Not much more to post these days since I dont own the bike anymore but the new owner has done quite alot of upgrades for its mostly gravel oriented riding.

Shock Upgrade to Rockshox Recon 100mm fork
Shimano Deore M6100 brakes (no brake cutouts, the new owner hated these on the stock CCX just like I did. Might not be a good idea depending on your skillset.)
GMAC kit from hilleater.ca
KInekt Seatpost
SRAM 9 speed x5 mid cage derailler and shifter (the stock CCX shimano altus derailler is horrible at maintaining chain tension)

I am 'very impressed' with the Hilleater GMAC kit. All the wiring is plug and play and makes for a pretty clean setup. I especially like the Hilleater replacement torquearm and bracket to bolt it to the kickstand mount. All the cycle analyst and frankenrunner setup is already done. There is a little surging at high cadence but we are looking into that. At lower cadence it works fine. Installed by someone new to working on bikes (although I provided alot of assistance) in less than half a day (including new brake replacement/installation which had several issues).

Need to figure out a more elegant frankenrunner mount (not sure the grin solution will work for the CCX). Will probably convert to a phaserunner in the long term.
Hilleater GMAC kit. Did you pick up in Canada? Site shows no shipping to USA in cart.
 
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