What's You're Plan For Major Breakdown?

[m@Robertson]

The Park chain pliers work perfectly to both open and close. The Oumers ones I use about half the time (I keep a fully stocked kit on each bike rather than swapping them around, so I never forget) are half the price with no functional difference. They are very lightweight and flat so they fit in a tool bag largely unnoticed. US$8.99. The silver version is US$7.99.

https://amzn.to/3Katx87

 

[PCeBiker]

I even made (I thought) chain pliers out of an old needle nose pliers,

I've done that.
I broke the tips off my C-clip tools so I used my Dremel tool to grind down the tips of my needle nose pliers.

used the mill and cut notches on the nose of the pliers, (DIDN'T work) etc.

Didn't work for me either.
Kept slipping off.


So I used my Dremel tool to grind new points on my C-clip tools.



I spent about 3 hours grinding new points on my pliers, but I didn't mind.

I just got a new Dremel tool for Christmas and it was fun to use it.




My refurbished C-clip pliers still suck.
They keep slipping off.
It's hard to grind a back-cut without cutting the tip right off.

I have a good chain pliers coming along with a 8mm open end wrench for the adjustment bolt.

You don't need good ones.
Just ones that squeeze in the right direction.

I found that the OEM chain pliers open and close the quick links, the problem I had with unlocking the OEM KMC #9 SP chain quick links is I couldn't hold the chain in the correct position to pinch the end links together, to unlock the links, kept slipping.

I have to work my homemade pliers into the gap.
They cling there and grab.

They're standing on their own for the picture.

,.. and a little piece of wire to hold the two halfs of chain together with slack come in handy.

I took a piece of coat hanger and wrapped it around the handles to hold the tool shut.
And it holds the two chain halves together too.

It's going into my tool kit for now.

 

[PCeBiker]

The Park chain pliers work perfectly to both open and close. The Oumers ones

Yeah,
That's what I want.
A squeezer not a spreader.
Now I need to buy another tool. Lol

 

[PCeBiker]

Gettin ready,..

 

[jabberwocky]

I didn't think that would be possible.
Nvreloader struggled for 2 hours.

I’m sure there’s some variation among brands but I’ve used a few different ones from 9 to 12 speed and never been unable to pop them open by hand. Just squeeze the links (like, pinch the plates toward each other) and wiggle and push it open. Maybe there’s a specific brand that super difficult? I mostly use SRAM because that’s what comes with my chains and they are cheap for spares.

 

[m@Robertson]

Maybe there’s a specific brand that super difficult?

Its not something I have ever messed with except in my very first attempts. As hacks go... a simple shoelace threaded thru and pulled on hard in opposite directions will pop the link apart.

 

[PCeBiker]

I managed to press out the link with the "master pin" in it and install the Missing Link.

The mushroomed pin pushed out easily with the chain tool.
The tool has a really good feel to it and was really comfortable to use.



The "master pin" was easy to push out as well. (You just have to push it the right direction. )



I didn't push either pin all the way out of the link.



To close the link, I pulled on the chain and it closed easily, just a bit of a tug.



Then I tried to open the link with my hands and that wasn't going to happen, so I tried my chain pliers and it worked great but it did take quite a squeeze of the handles to pop it open.

As hacks go... a simple shoelace threaded thru and pulled on hard in opposite directions will pop the link apart.

I thought I'd try that to see what it's like.
I used a piece of string/rope that was just thin enough to feed through the chain link.
I couldn't pop the link. I was pulling so hard on the string that it was digging into fingers.
I'm sure that I could get it to work if I wrapped the ends of the string around wrenches to make handles to pull on but the link takes a lot of pressure to pop it open.
It is a brand new quick link though, it might loosen up a bit over time?


@PedalUma posted a link to this chain wrench on Amazon.




That's the chain wrench you want to have. It's meant to open a link.
It squeezes the link when you squeeze the handles.

You can use it to close the link by pulling on the handles, but you don't need a tool to close a link.

 

[PedalUma]

To expand a quick link I use a small flat screwdriver. To lock a link I hand pedal with a smack while holding the wheel

 

[PCeBiker]

Expanding or locking a link is easy.
I just had pull on the chain.
But using this tool to compress a link to remove it would be difficult.



I would have to insert it in the link then use both hands on the tool to pull the handles apart, which would be cumbersome to do in the field, with the chain on the bike when of course it will be dark and raining.

Using the tool that you linked to only takes one hand to compress a link, then you can use your other hand to cover the link to catch it if it falls off when it pops.

 

[jabberwocky]

I'm trying to envision the scenario where you'd need to open the quick-link in the field. I don't think I've ever had to do it in 20 years of riding. The main reason to carry an extra link and a multi-tool with a chain breaker is if the chain breaks, and if that happens it will almost certainly be one of the standard links and you'd just remove whatever is left of the broken link and pop the spare quick-link on there. No need to mess with the quick-link thats already on there.

I only ever open the link and remove the chain in the shop, while doing more in-depth maintenance or cleaning the drivetrain.

 

[Nomad]

I managed to press out the link with the "master pin" in it and install the Missing Link.

The mushroomed pin pushed out easily with the chain tool.
The tool has a really good feel to it and was really comfortable to use.

View attachment 146730

The "master pin" was easy to push out as well. (You just have to push it the right direction. )

View attachment 146731View attachment 146732View attachment 146733

I didn't push either pin all the way out of the link.

View attachment 146734

To close the link, I pulled on the chain and it closed easily, just a bit of a tug.

View attachment 146735

Then I tried to open the link with my hands and that wasn't going to happen, so I tried my chain pliers and it worked great but it did take quite a squeeze of the handles to pop it open.



I thought I'd try that to see what it's like.
I used a piece of string/rope that was just thin enough to feed through the chain link.
I couldn't pop the link. I was pulling so hard on the string that it was digging into fingers.
I'm sure that I could get it to work if I wrapped the ends of the string around wrenches to make handles to pull on but the link takes a lot of pressure to pop it open.
It is a brand new quick link though, it might loosen up a bit over time?


@PedalUma posted a link to this chain wrench on Amazon.

View attachment 146736


That's the chain wrench you want to have. It's meant to open a link.
It squeezes the link when you squeeze the handles.

You can use it to close the link by pulling on the handles, but you don't need a tool to close a link.

you don't want it to get easier unless it because you get better at it because that means it's worn. Technically some are only meant to used once. I said Technically.

 

[PCeBiker]

you don't want it to get easier unless it because you get better at it because that means it's worn. Technically some are only meant to used once. I said Technically.

Yeah that's what I was thinking about.
I only opened and closed my link twice to get a feel for it.
The Missing Link information says that it can be reused 3-4 times, but my practice run might not count?

I did find quick links that lock and are only designed for a single use.

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm trying to envision the scenario where you'd need to open the quick-link in the field. I don't think I've ever had to do it in 20 years of riding.

Yeah, that's true.
I'm new to ebikes, but I've been on and off of bikes for over 50 years and I've never had a chain issue.

The main reason to carry an extra link and a multi-tool with a chain breaker is if the chain breaks, and if that happens it will almost certainly be one of the standard links and you'd just remove whatever is left of the broken link and pop the spare quick-link on there. No need to mess with the quick-link thats already on there.

Well at least I'm prepared now even if it's for something that will never happen to me?

I only ever open the link and remove the chain in the shop, while doing more in-depth maintenance or cleaning the drivetrain.

I do intend to remove my chain periodically to clean it and give it another hot wax treatment.
At least my chain pliers is a squeezer not a spreader.
It does make it easier.

 

[PSm]

You all have me convinced to stay with single-speed bikes, LOL.

 

[PCeBiker]

I smoked a couple Vados, and got to thinkin,..

I spend 95% of my riding time Off Road =
I carry all the tools/extra equipment to do repairs etc,
I bought a new long length chain that fits my Wart Hog along with several quick links, and I'll will be using any one of the 15t-20t-26t-34t back gears with the 44t main gear, depending on the riding conditions

I must have read this a dozen times and wondered why are you choosing to use only 4 gears out of your 9 speed cluster???

I finally figured it out...


It's only the front chain ring that has staggered fat/skinny teeth.

I'm 98% sure that your 9 speed rear cluster only has skinny teeth.

You don't need to count teeth on the rear cluster.

Just set your chain on the front chain ring and the rear cluster will always line up.

 

[Nvreloader]

I smoked a couple Vados, and got to thinkin,..

Sorry don't that habit yet..........

I must have read this a dozen times and wondered why are you choosing to use only 4 gears out of your 9 speed cluster???

Because, I figured out that I can't use all the gear in this emergency situation,
so I pick every other gear, starting from the largest to smallest etc.

I know that I can't use the smaller gears, in the rough riding conditions,
so I'll have to use the biggest gears to get me out of the rough stuff I am in,
and then drop down to whatever small gear (for traveling with some speed)
to use on the county roads to get home etc.

Yes that is correct, the headache is it seems that the extra chain always lands
on a thick tooth and I have to move the chain (creates slop) to get the chain
to fit properly on the front gear.

It does not make any difference if the rear adjustment plate is moved forward
or all the way to the back, when adjusting/using the best option for whatever
of the 4 gear I'll be using.
This adjuster plate only has about 3/4'-1" of total movement for adjusting.

I am going to have to use a chain tensioner to control the slop,
but I found one that I can use in either a push down or lift up operations,
it all depends on how it fits my bike.
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

Because, I figured out that I can't use all the gear in this emergency situation,
so I pick every other gear, starting from the largest to smallest etc.

I think that you can.
I think that your rear sprockets only have skinny teeth?

Try it to find out

I know that I can't use the smaller gears, in the rough riding conditions,
so I'll have to use the biggest gears to get me out of the rough stuff I am in,
and then drop down to whatever small gear (for traveling with some speed)
to use on the county roads to get home etc.

Yes that is correct, the headache is it seems that the extra chain always lands
on a thick tooth and I have to move the chain (creates slop) to get the chain
to fit properly on the front gear.

It does not make any difference if the rear adjustment plate is moved forward
or all the way to the back, when adjusting/using the best option for whatever
of the 4 gear I'll be using.
This adjuster plate only has about 3/4'-1" of total movement for adjusting.

I am going to have to use a chain tensioner to control the slop,
but I found one that I can use in either a push down or lift up operations,
it all depends on how it fits my bike.
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

Yes that is correct, the headache is it seems that the extra chain always lands
on a thick tooth and I have to move the chain (creates slop) to get the chain
to fit properly on the front gear.

Are you sure that there are thick teeth on the rear cluster?
(I'm thinking not?)

 

[PCeBiker]

Try to set your new chain across any sprocket on the rear, and see if it fits.
Then lift the chain off, move it one tooth ahead or behind, and see if it still fits.

It won't fit on the front sprocket, but I bet it fits on any rear sprocket.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
It's the front sprocket that causes the problem, every other tooth is a thick tooth,
the rear sprockets fits regardless where the chain is placed.

I place the end of the chain on a thick tooth (to hold the chain in place) and stretch the chain tight around the rear gear and finish wrapping the chain around/over the front sprocket as tight as possible and I ALWAYS have to move 1 link to fit to a thick tooth to fit properly, which causes the extra slop in the chain.
I have tried every combo I can think of, and sliding the rear plate forward or backward doesn't make a difference.