Using 1Up Super Duty with Turbo Como (or Vado) with Wheel Stop accessory, or other options

[JohnF]

I know there have been threads discussing the 1Up with fenders, but it looks like the solutions involve touching the rack to the rear fender which I want to avoid.

The Wheel Stop accessory is used for bikes with front and rear fenders, but it's limited to wheelbases up to 46".

So it looks like the 1Up is not possible unless it touches the fender. Am I missing something here?

Options with ramps: 1) Kuat Piston Pro is similar but with Piston Fender Strap kit also wheel base limitation (45"), 2) Yakima OnRamp looks like it works, but it doesn't look as rugged, 3) Thule EasyFold XT looks like it will work, but I haven't verified that it will attach to the seat tube (and not down tube).

 

[Tim C]

I have the Thurle Easy Fold and the support bar can be moved into any position to suit your bike - I have a Como 5 and the support bar locks very easily on the seat tube.

 

[JohnF]

Very good info, thanks Tim. Do you know if carrying 2 bikes on the Easy Fold, the geometry will allow both to attach to the seat tube?

 

[Tim C]

Hi John - I haven't put 2 bikes on my Easy Fold tray, but as it has two separate support bars and both can be set in different positions on the rail independently then I don't see why you shouldn't be able to support both bikes attached to their seat posts. You probably have to go nose to tail so that the two support bars are separate from each other. I have unfolded my Easyfold and took some photos for you. The support bars can be moved anywhere along the back rail to suit your bikes. I have tried to position the support bars in the photos to give you an idea of what i think would work. The longer bar is set up for my Como on the outer position and attaches to the seat seat tube. Hope this helps. The Thule EasyFold is very well made and a clever design, and easy to pick up and store.

 

[Tim C]

Hi John - Extra info - the two grips that hold the bike seat tube can be swung around 360 degrees into any position, and the end knobs are keyed so they can be locked once the bikes are in position and grips are tight.

 

[JohnF]

Great info - Thanks very much again, Tim.

Was going to ask this in the general discussion area, but let me run it by you. Thule used to make an access swing away adapter, but they discontinued it.

https://www.rei.com/product/152011/thule-access-swing-away-hitch-adapter

Aside from warranty issues mixing products from different manufacturers, I was thinking about using the Kuat Pivot v2 or the Yakima BackSwing. Do you have any knowledge using these with the EasyFold?

 

[Tim C]

Not sure if you need this - the Thule Easyfold can be tipped down away from the vehicle so that you can access your boot. Here is a promotional video showing it being fitted and tilted down

Thule EasyFold XT F | Thule | New Zealand

Thule EasyFold XT F - The fully foldable, compact, and easy-to-use towbar-mounted bike rack for all types of bikes, with a dedicated fit for a FIX4BIKE towbar.

www.thule.com

 

[JohnF]

I have a truck with a back gate that could not open without hitting the rack, with or without bikes. Overall, excellent information. Thanks much.

 

[gpburdell]

I know there have been threads discussing the 1Up with fenders, but it looks like the solutions involve touching the rack to the rear fender which I want to avoid.

The Wheel Stop accessory is used for bikes with front and rear fenders, but it's limited to wheelbases up to 46".

So it looks like the 1Up is not possible unless it touches the fender. Am I missing something here?

Options with ramps: 1) Kuat Piston Pro is similar but with Piston Fender Strap kit also wheel base limitation (45"), 2) Yakima OnRamp looks like it works, but it doesn't look as rugged, 3) Thule EasyFold XT looks like it will work, but I haven't verified that it will attach to the seat tube (and not down tube).

You can use cinch straps to lock the wheels to the trays, the arm on the front wheel holds in in place, and the rear arm can be placed such that it doesn't touch the fender yet provides security against tipping. May be worth putting some foam tape on the side of the rear arm if concerned with the fender rubbing, and it wouldn't hurt to put a piece of pipe insulation or wrap a hand towel around the spool.

1UP does offer a ramp accessory.

 

[Nubnub]

I hadn't been aware of the wheel stop accessory. Thanks for the post and I'll be ordering one for my 1Up. It looks like the rear fender still needs to be clamped by the 1Up. This is not so much a problem on the Vado SL EQ as it clamps very near to the integratred rack/fender strut and the fender is pretty sturdy anyways. On the front, it looks like the longer SL fenders may get in the way of the wheel stop. I've taken my front fender off but I'll see it it would work with the fender - possible to wedge the stop between the fender if it hangs too low. Even if it doesn't work with the front fender on the SL, it will still be worthwhile - normally I wouldn't be carrying the bike on the car if the weather is bad anyways.

Also interested to see if it will work with my heavier Tero. Tho the wheelbase is >46", there is some fore/aft mounting flexibility on the rack and I believe it will still work ok. No fenders on the Tero but anything that will increase the stability on the rack is worth looking into imo.

 

[gpburdell]

I hadn't been aware of the wheel stop accessory. Thanks for the post and I'll be ordering one for my 1Up. It looks like the rear fender still needs to be clamped by the 1Up.

Point of information - the rear fender does not need to be "clamped" as such if you use velcro cinch straps at the wheels. 1UP includes one with the wheel stop accessory, or buy a bunch from Amazon. I use them on both wheels, front and rear, and the wheels are held to the base. The arms of the rack then serve to prevent tipping.

Also interested to see if it will work with my heavier Tero. Tho the wheelbase is >46", there is some fore/aft mounting flexibility on the rack and I believe it will still work ok. No fenders on the Tero but anything that will increase the stability on the rack is worth looking into imo.

There's no flexibility as to the wheel stop location.

I won't have a chance to load my Vado on and get a photo for a few days but if you remind me the middle of next week I'll do so.

 

[rayray]

One downside to the Thule Easy Fold is the 2 trays are rather close to each other. My Creo and my wife’s Rad Mini wouldn’t both fit on it without making contact, no matter how I positioned them. I no longer recall the exact dimensions, but I bought a Kuat Piston Pro to gain about 1.5-2.0 inches. I’d suggest investigating the issue before buying.

 

[JohnF]

The Kuat Piston Pro looks very well made, but the specs Piston Fender Strap kit indicate the wheel base is limited to 45". The small Turbo Como wheelbase is 1194 mm, just over 47", and of course the medium and large have even longer wheel bases. It looks like the Creo has no fenders, so it's apples and oranges.

 

[Nubnub]

Point of information - the rear fender does not need to be "clamped" as such if you use velcro cinch straps at the wheels. 1UP includes one with the wheel stop accessory, or buy a bunch from Amazon. I use them on both wheels, front and rear, and the wheels are held to the base. The arms of the rack then serve to prevent tipping.


There's no flexibility as to the wheel stop location.

I won't have a chance to load my Vado on and get a photo for a few days but if you remind me the middle of next week I'll do so.

Agreed the wheel stop is fixed. What I meant is that the 1up tray is about 55" long and the bike does not need to be exactly centered. Thus with a wheelbase of 46" there is flexibility on where the bike is placed. The Wheel Stop then determines where the front wheel needs to be in order to be engaged. This will depend both on the bikes positon and the size of the wheel/tires. Eyeballing my size L Tero with smaller 650B wheels/tires - it might still work. Pretty sure it will be fine with the original 29er 2.35" ground controls. Tho my Tero is fenderless, anything that will add additional security/stability will be welcome. And I am sure it will work as well on my fenderless bikes with shorter wheelbases.

The 46" wheelbase spec is probably a generalization based on the bike being centered and having "normal" sized wheels/tires. Pretty sure a 46" wheelbase with 16 inch tires would leave the rear axle off the tray .

 

[gpburdell]

Agreed the wheel stop is fixed. What I meant is that the 1up tray is about 55" long and the bike does not need to be exactly centered. Thus with a wheelbase of 46" there is flexibility on where the bike is placed. The Wheel Stop then determines where the front wheel needs to be in order to be engaged. This will depend both on the bikes positon and the size of the wheel/tires. Eyeballing my size L Tero with smaller 650B wheels/tires - it might still work. Pretty sure it will be fine with the original 29er 2.35" ground controls. Tho my Tero is fenderless, anything that will add additional security/stability will be welcome. And I am sure it will work as well on my fenderless bikes with shorter wheelbases.

The 46" wheelbase spec is probably a generalization based on the bike being centered and having "normal" sized wheels/tires. Pretty sure a 46" wheelbase with 16 inch tires would leave the rear axle off the tray .

Okay, back home today so I had a chance to try out the wheel stop that's on my wife's 1UP rack. It works decently well with her Verve+ 2 though we still set up a spool to meet the rear tire - rear fender doesn't come down as far as on the Vado.

My 2022 Vado 4.0 in Medium with 1186mm (46.7") wheel base and stock 650Bx2.3 tires hangs off the end a good bit if using the wheel stop.

I wouldn't buy it unless you were to want it for another bike with smaller wheelbase.

 

[Nubnub]

Mine should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the pics. Pretty sure the 48" wheelbase Tero will not be an issue since there will be plenty of space between the front axle and edge of the tray. I'm guessing with 29er tires it may require just a folded towel to push the front wheel a bit closer to the tray edge. With 650B tires I'll probably find a piece of foam and cut it to size. 55inch tray and 48inch wheelbase means perfectly centering the bike would put the axles 3.5 in from the tray edges. But I won't need to perfectly center the bike - just move it a bit to get the rear axle over the tray.

Good to see that the wheelstop doesn't seem to hit even the longish fenders on your Vado.

 

[gpburdell]

@Nubnub yeah, the wheelstop sits fairly low.

Here’s my rack without wheel stop and both spools at the end spot. I wrapped a towel around the rear spool and there’s minimal pressure on the fender. Bit of pipe insulation would work well, or a piece of a pool noodle. Both wheels are cinch strapped to the trays. (Note I have an AddOn installed.)

So you should be more than fine with your Tero.



Honestly I dislike the long rubber extension on the Vado front fender and may remove it or it and the fender. I’m also planning to bob the rear fender - I’d co sided removing the whole thing if I had a good plan for a rack stay and routing the tail light wiring.

 

[Marcela]

@Nubnub yeah, the wheelstop sits fairly low.

Here’s my rack without wheel stop and both spools at the end spot. I wrapped a towel around the rear spool and there’s minimal pressure on the fender. Bit of pipe insulation would work well, or a piece of a pool noodle. Both wheels are cinch strapped to the trays. (Note I have an AddOn installed.)

So you should be more than fine with your Tero.

View attachment 133802

Honestly I dislike the long rubber extension on the Vado front fender and may remove it or it and the fender. I’m also planning to bob the rear fender - I’d co sided removing the whole thing if I had a good plan for a rack stay and routing the tail light wiring.

On my Como and Vado front fender, I feathered the plastic at the bottom rear of the fender by making some slices vertically. I was catching it on curbs every once in a while and didn't want to damage it or the fender. The slices make it flexible for a few inches so if it catches something it doesn't hurt too much.

 

[gpburdell]

On my Como and Vado front fender, I feathered the plastic at the bottom rear of the fender by making some slices vertically. I was catching it on curbs every once in a while and didn't want to damage it or the fender. The slices make it flexible for a few inches so if it catches something it doesn't hurt too much.

So kinda like handlebar tassels but for the fender?



Sorry, couldn't help but have a bit of fun with that image. If the front fender rubber bit becomes an issue I'll drill out the rivets and keep the rubber bit on the shelf for later reinstallation should I sell the bike.

 

[Marcela]

I was thinking more along the lines of this but I’ll settle for what I did. Thanks for the humor.