Tero X Fender Trim to Use on 1UP Hitch Rack

MukilteoManiac

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USA
Posting this for others as it may come up for you as it did me.

For my Tero X 6, I don’t like the look of the fenders, but they are useful. The front one isn’t an issue for my 1UP tray supported hitch bike rack. But the back fender is too long. I like the tail mounted light on the rear fender, so if I remove the rear fender, I’ll want to relocate the tail light to a new bracket on the seat post under the sliding dropper frame. I also like the pannier capability of the rear rack that uses the rear fender as a stay.

So my choices are:

1. Remove the fenders and relocate the rear taillight to the fixed part of the seat post.

Or

2. Trim the back of the rear fender to above the centerline of the rear axle (at about the blue tape line) so it fits in the 1UP hitch mounted tray bike rack that I have.

So, I took Option 2 and trimmed 7.5-inches off the back of the rear fender so it fits in my hitch mounted rack. That way the bike rack supports will grip the rear tire above the axle centerline.

I used a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the fender, then used a sander to remove the burrs and horizontally plumbed the cut.

I drilled out the rivets holding the plastic flap, touched up the cut metal with semi flat black paint, reattached the plastic flap with new 1/8-inch holes and 1/8 x 1/2 aluminum pop rivets with aluminum washers on each side. I then touched them up with the same black paint.

Looks good and will allow the bike to mount to the rack with the arms squeezing both front and rear tires. The functionality of the fender and rack are preserved, but the trimmed fender allows my bike to be supported safely by my 1UP Hitch Mounted Bike Rack.

The 1UP Wheel Stop accessory that i installed is not that useful in supporting the large Tero X, so it wont be used when hauling this heavy ebike.
 

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Posting this for others as it may come up for you as it did me.

For my Tero X 6, I don’t like the look of the fenders, but they are useful. The front one isn’t an issue for my 1UP tray supported hitch bike rack. But the back fender is too long. I like the tail mounted light on the rear fender, so if I remove the rear fender, I’ll want to relocate the tail light to a new bracket on the seat post under the sliding dropper frame. I also like the pannier capability of the rear rack that uses the rear fender as a stay.

So my choices are:

1. Remove the fenders and relocate the rear taillight to the fixed part of the seat post.

Or

2. Trim the back of the rear fender to above the centerline of the rear axle (at about the blue tape line) so it fits in the 1UP hitch mounted tray bike rack that I have.

So, I took Option 2 and trimmed 7.5-inches off the back of the rear fender so it fits in my hitch mounted rack. That way the bike rack supports will grip the rear tire above the axle centerline.

I used a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the fender, then used a sander to remove the burrs and horizontally plumbed the cut.

I drilled out the rivets holding the plastic flap, touched up the cut metal with semi flat black paint, reattached the plastic flap with new 1/8-inch holes and 1/8 x 1/2 aluminum pop rivets with aluminum washers on each side. I then touched them up with the same black paint.

Looks good and will allow the bike to mount to the rack with the arms squeezing both front and rear tires. The functionality of the fender and rack are preserved, but the trimmed fender allows my bike to be supported safely by my 1UP Hitch Mounted Bike Rack.

The 1UP Wheel Stop accessory that i installed is not that useful in supporting the large Tero X, so it wont be used when hauling this heavy ebike.
I have been using a 1UP rack to carry two Como's with fenders and did not have to trim the rear fender. I simply lowered the spacer on the arm that supports the rear wheel. I also added 2" wide velcro straps to add additional stabilization on the front and rear wheels.
Posting this for others as it may come up for you as it did me.

For my Tero X 6, I don’t like the look of the fenders, but they are useful. The front one isn’t an issue for my 1UP tray supported hitch bike rack. But the back fender is too long. I like the tail mounted light on the rear fender, so if I remove the rear fender, I’ll want to relocate the tail light to a new bracket on the seat post under the sliding dropper frame. I also like the pannier capability of the rear rack that uses the rear fender as a stay.

So my choices are:

1. Remove the fenders and relocate the rear taillight to the fixed part of the seat post.

Or

2. Trim the back of the rear fender to above the centerline of the rear axle (at about the blue tape line) so it fits in the 1UP hitch mounted tray bike rack that I have.

So, I took Option 2 and trimmed 7.5-inches off the back of the rear fender so it fits in my hitch mounted rack. That way the bike rack supports will grip the rear tire above the axle centerline.

I used a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the fender, then used a sander to remove the burrs and horizontally plumbed the cut.

I drilled out the rivets holding the plastic flap, touched up the cut metal with semi flat black paint, reattached the plastic flap with new 1/8-inch holes and 1/8 x 1/2 aluminum pop rivets with aluminum washers on each side. I then touched them up with the same black paint.

Looks good and will allow the bike to mount to the rack with the arms squeezing both front and rear tires. The functionality of the fender and rack are preserved, but the trimmed fender allows my bike to be supported safely by my 1UP Hitch Mounted Bike Rack.

The 1UP Wheel Stop accessory that i installed is not that useful in supporting the large Tero X, so it wont be used when hauling this heavy ebike.
I don't think you had to trim the fender. I have been carrying Como's with fenders by simply moving the spacer on the arm down. It lowers the touch point to just below the fender. I added 2" velcro straps to further stabilize the front and rear wheels.
 

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I have the Tero X 4.0 and just wish the rear rack had a platform. I know they don't because they are concerned that the platform would possibly hit the seat/post when the rear suspension compresses. I don't think it would on my medium frame and even if it did hit, no big deal.
 
I've considered doing the exact same thing on mine. Not only to enable that style of rack, but also because I'd like to be able to stand the bike on the rear wheel in hike-a-bike areas where you can't stand beside the bike. Thanks for posting your results!

This is one of several areas on this bike where I think Specialized failed to make a "SUV e-bike" compromise and instead used a mix of full-MTB and full-commuter ideas as if that "averages" to a compromise bike. Why would you ship with super long commuter-style fenders AND knobby trail tires? It would have been better to ship a compromise fender (which you've created) and a compromise tire (I switched to Schwalbe Johnny Watts, but maybe a "Slaughter Grid Trail T7" if you must pick a Specialized tire).

Re @RobSC 's comment about the rack: Again, I think their "compromise" here was to get MTB lines by keeping the profile of the back tire rounded. I don't think there's any good mechanical reason to leave off the flat platform.
 
Ben, being able to walk the bike standing up was also a motivation for me to trim the fender. I regularly walk the bike vertically through my garage to get past the cars. I couldn’t do that with the stocks length of the rear fender. Moving the bike standing up makes it much more versatile without that last 8-inches of fender surrounding the back of the rear tire. I don't thing there will be any change in performance of the wet weather aspects of the rear fender.
 
I use a 1up rack to carry 27.5 mtbs, 29er mtbs, and Turbo Vados on a rotating basis. My solution to the fender problem is to put a piece of closed cell pipe insulation on the spindles and just clamp the rack down on the fenders. The fenders are quite stout and don't complain about this treatment at all.
 
I did a similar mod to the rear fender on my Trek Allant+ 8S. I have a Quikrstuff Mach 2 rack on order and I knew I wasn't going to be happy cinching it down on the fender (with or without cushioning). Even though technically I could position the spool on the rear tire above the wheel centerline as recommended, I wanted a better grip angle. The Trek was easy since there is a removable trim piece. I made the fender as high as I could without messing with the taillight.

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I did similar with my Vado 4.0 rear fender - partly for use on the 1UP rack where I didn't want to take the spool down as far as @Ebiker53 since I use the same rack for other bikes without fenders and want to use my locks through the wheels, but also for standing the bike on its rear wheel as @Ben J mentions since I use that technique to easily maneuver bikes around stuff in the garage.
 
I did a similar mod to the rear fender on my Trek Allant+ 8S. I have a Quikrstuff Mach 2 rack on order and I knew I wasn't going to be happy cinching it down on the fender (with or without cushioning). Even though technically I could position the spool on the rear tire above the wheel centerline as recommended, I wanted a better grip angle. The Trek was easy since there is a removable trim piece. I made the fender as high as I could without messing with the taillight.

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I finally received the QuikrStuff Mach 2 rack. It works beautifully with the trimmed fender on the Trek.
 

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I finally received the QuikrStuff Mach 2 rack. It works beautifully with the trimmed fender on the Trek.
Hey offthewall,

What is that bolt-on rear rack platform you've got there. That's exactly the type platform I want to add to my Turbo Tero X rear rack.

Thanks!
 
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