The infamous Motobecane HAL E-MTB. I bought one…

[sendler2112]

I bought the 42cm size. I am 5'10" with a 32" inseam. The size feels about right. I am 64 (hence the emtb; it's very steep and hilly where I live).

Interesting that your 42cm HAL electric looks to be about 22.75" for the measured top tube to the seat clamp which should be about ideal for me (especially considering that the dropper that is now included is a single bolt type and has an extra 15mm set back compared to your more common zero set back two bolt post), whereas my 43cm HAL Boost that I am trying to compare to is more like 22.1" even with the 15mm extra. My seat post on the HAL boost 43 still has exactly 10mm more extension to the insertion line that it could go higher so theoretically the 42cm electric should barely make it without having to go to the bigger size with it's higher stack height. As long as you have your tape measure out, can you measure from the crank center to the top of your seat tube? My 43 measures 17.25"/ 43.8cm so if your bike measures at least 16 7/8"/ 42.8cm then I can order the 42 HAL electric.
.
PS. I am 5'9 with 32 inseam and 60 years old and it is very hilly in Syracuse, NY. I can still ride my naturally asperated bikes at the front of the B group but occasionally get the chance to tag along at the back with the racers who know the more epic trails and the ebike will allow me to catch back on by the top of the climbs.

 

[Spark]

Interesting that your 42cm HAL electric looks to be about 22.75" for the measured top tube to the seat clamp which should be about ideal for me (especially considering that the dropper that is now included is a single bolt type and has an extra 15mm set back compared to your more common zero set back two bolt post), whereas my 43cm HAL Boost that I am trying to compare to is more like 22.1" even with the 15mm extra. My seat post on the HAL boost 43 still has exactly 10mm more extension to the insertion line that it could go higher so theoretically the 42cm electric should barely make it without having to go to the bigger size with it's higher stack height. As long as you have your tape measure out, can you measure from the crank center to the top of your seat tube? My 43 measures 17.25"/ 43.8cm so if your bike measures at least 16 7/8"/ 42.8cm then I can order the 42 HAL electric.
.
PS. I am 5'9 with 32 inseam and 60 years old and it is very hilly in Syracuse, NY. I can still ride my naturally asperated bikes at the front of the B group but occasionally get the chance to tag along at the back with the racers who know the more epic trails and the ebike will allow me to catch back on by the top of the climbs.

The measurement from crank center to center of seat post clamp is 16.5" The distance from the crank center to seat rails clamp (using LEV dropper post) is 26.5" at full dropper extension (the way I have it set up).

 

[sendler2112]

Thanks again for checking that for us. So the 42cm HAL electric really is 42cm. Which with the stock 100mm dropper post is going to leave me 8mm short without changing to a longer dropper.

 

[Spark]

Thanks again for checking that for us. So the 42cm HAL electric really is 42cm. Which with the stock 100mm dropper post is going to leave me 8mm short without changing to a longer dropper.

Info on the LEV I installed:
Part Num 458564
KS LEV Integra 31.6 Height Adjust Seatpost 385/125mm Remote
$277.99

 

[sendler2112]

The factory dropper that is now included is also 385mm overall so in order to get the extra seat height above where your seat post is I would have to swap it for a longer post such as the 415 version of the 9point8 with 25mm offset.
.

9point8 | Dropper Seatposts, Clamps, Remotes, and More Bike Components

9point8 provides world-class dropper seatposts, built for users searching for performance and reliability in their bike components.

www.9point8.ca

.

 

[LimboJim]

The factory dropper that is now included is also 385mm overall so in order to get the extra seat height above where your seat post is I would have to swap it for a longer post such as the 415 version of the 9point8 with 25mm offset.
.

9point8 | Dropper Seatposts, Clamps, Remotes, and More Bike Components

9point8 provides world-class dropper seatposts, built for users searching for performance and reliability in their bike components.

www.9point8.ca

.

I'm curious if you run into what I did with the two Motobecane ebikes I assembled that came with droppers. In both cases, the droppers' internally routed cable housings were pinched by the motor such that the housings wouldn't budge to allow for seatpost height adjustments. The motors thus had to be "dropped" to reposition them for proper functioning...

 

[JackNCA]

After 1200 miles on my Motobecane Eboost Elite I've ordered a 2nd one. My bike has been awesome and I wanted another so I can ride with my friends and family and not be huffing it on my Giant FS analog bike watching them smiling riding uphill on my EMTB. I currently have the 42cm but ordered the 46cm for my 2nd one. It doesn't ship until April but will update this page after it arrives.

 

[FlatSix911]

After 1200 miles on my Motobecane Eboost Elite I've ordered a 2nd one. My bike has been awesome and I wanted another so I can ride with my friends and family and not be huffing it on my Giant FS analog bike watching them smiling riding uphill on my EMTB. I currently have the 42cm but ordered the 46cm for my 2nd one. It doesn't ship until April but will update this page after it arrives.

Nice to have 2 of the same bike for friends and family... also a spare battery if you need to make a long ride.

 

[giantsteppin]

Posting this here as well because you all seem like you might know!
*****

I live in the foothills and strongly considered the Rockstar. It seems at 83lbs this will be unwieldy during descent here in Colorado.

My next choice is the HAL eBoost Elite. My only worry is the battery life. Can anyone speak to this? Has the battery been an issue for you? Have you considered upgrading or bought an extra battery? If you've bought an extra, how has that worked out for you? Is it annoying to carry? How far have you gone using both? Any drawbacks or things you'd wish you had known when you were in my shoes?

Also, I have seen the new 630wH battery from shimano. Will this fit on the eBoost elite?

Sure seems like a tremendous deal and so much fun!

 

[JackNCA]

Giantsteppin.. I know the 504wh battery will fit but I don’t think the 630wh will. That said, no issues on battery life. I’m on a time crunch now but can give more details later. As I’ve said, I’m waiting for the delivery of my 2nd eboost Elite so I’m a fan..

 

[giantsteppin]

JackNCA - Thanks for the info! Great to hear about the battery life. It seems the places I would use it most are the steeps and wondering if eco is enough on those? From my house, I need to ride about 5 miles, mixed uphill on the pavement, to get to the trailhead, then a pretty steep few miles before heading back down. Also, there are TONS of options once I get up the trail. I could head back down or continue in several directions, so I could see some pretty extended sessions. Looking forward to details whenever you can. Thanks!

 

[JackNCA]

JackNCA - Thanks for the info! Great to hear about the battery life. It seems the places I would use it most are the steeps and wondering if eco is enough on those? From my house, I need to ride about 5 miles, mixed uphill on the pavement, to get to the trailhead, then a pretty steep few miles before heading back down. Also, there are TONS of options once I get up the trail. I could head back down or continue in several directions, so I could see some pretty extended sessions. Looking forward to details whenever you can. Thanks!

My average every other day ride is 9-15 miles up and down with some rock garden stuff. I have the E7000 setup in mid on ECO and low on both TRAIL and BOOST. I try to stay fully in ECO every third ride. Otherwise I’ll use TRAIL up the steep rocky stuff. I charge the battery every 3 rides and have never been down below 2 out of 5 battery bars. You will be crazy happy with the ELITE. You’ll want to spend about another $100 to get it perfect. A Shimano e7000 chain guide, rim tape (I use Gorilla Tape), tubless stems, tubless tire sealant, good flat pedals and grips to your taste (I use ergonomic grips). You’ll also need the shimano steps chainring removal tool to install the chain guide.

 

[gehu]

Some pics.. View attachment 48319View attachment 48320View attachment 48321View attachment 48322View attachment 48323View attachment 48324

Very nice !!!! Just ordered one. Back ordered till mid may, heck not a problem. I had given up on being able to get one since I first started looking at them last fall.
I have a 50 nm Bosch gravel and a 70nm e8000 Marin emtb so I did a bit of research on the E7000. E7000 came out after E8000. It is said that E7000 is very much like an early Ep8 engine but they had to neuter it to keep the price points correct and they simply wanted to get something out there to be competitive in a market they have really dropped the ball on. (I know most people know about this but some don't so here goes). One way to find out is to use Steps Unlocker (StUnlocker) and set your own torque values at different levels which I will do to test it by setting it to 1.15% = 70nm higher than max and check for engine overheating..and see if it pulls close to my e8.(just for fun will not keep it at that for long.) Btw, no ebike maker knows what your legs like on a given day. StUnlocker lets you set your assist levels to any % you want from (0-100+) (Gestapo Bosch has not such 3rd party app yet except for speed delimiting [I am using volspeed on the bosch motor for that].) I know what kind of training I want to do at the given eco, trail, boost modes and it is certainly not always at 33,66,100% (low, medium, high) in a given mode. My dealer said he did not have a problem with it me using it YRMV but anyway, i went ahead and shelled out for the SM-PCE2 which is the same diagnostics device they have so I can use etube to clear and check diag codes and any firmware mode code from StUnlocker being used if necessary.
Here is an early writeup on E7 I found interesting. "On the trail, the E7000 motor can easily keep up with the stronger E8000 version, even at maximum output. Only when riding in the wrong gear or at too low a cadence will you notice the10 Nm torque less." (iow, the torque sensor is tuned differently lol.)

Shimano STEPS E7000 in Review

The brand-new STEPS E7000 is the more affordable version of Shimano’s popular performance motor. It’s lighter and not as powerful as its bigger (and more expensive) sibling, the STEPS E8000, but does this necessarily make it worse? Click here to find out what it takes to be the best eMTB motor...

ebike-mtb.com

To make a long story short (ya) I know that I will be fine with a 60nm torque limit (which I will set it back to)...I am really pretty fine with a 50nm and able to keep up with all the in town speed demon racer rides we do so....Btw, there is also videos on youtube testing one against the other and of course they find E8 is brute stronger on a non technical climb but some felt the E7 was easier to clear stuff in technical terrain. I find that really kinda silly as I simply set my boost mode properly on my E8 lower so to modulate it better so it doesn't shoot out from under me on the gnarly steep stuff if I decide to use it. But still the lower torque value and sensor settings "seem" to modulates in rough terrain. Fun stuff ! Still giddy at getting one these are incredible deals even with the price increase.

 

[gehu]

Spoiler: I love this bike.

Full suspension electric mountain bike with Shimano E8000 motor and running gear, 27.5" wheels, Rockshox Pike fork and rear shock, 1x11 gearing, big 504 amp hour battery, Boost (wide hub) through axles, hydraulic disc brakes and dropper seatpost with internal routed cable for left thumb actuation. The bike is also compatible with 29 inch wheels.​

I put a couple of hundred miles on a KTM electric mountain bike in Hungary in 2019 and really liked it. It was a $6000 bike but I didn't care--I wanted one for my own. When I got home to the USA I started searching and was disappointed to find KTM doesn't sell their electric bikes here so the search began. I ended up buying an Aventon Pace 500 street cruiser style electric bike and love it. I put 1000 miles on it in the first four months and I lost 25lbs due to the exercise and fresh air. I got so into shape I decided to get a non-electric road bike and ended up with a BikesDirect.com Motobecane Immortal Disc Pro SL carbon fiber gravel bike. It was an amazing value and I put 1000 miles on it in about four months too.

When it was time to replace my 1996 Cannondale Super V 900 full suspension mountain bike I went to BikesDirect.com first but I also reviewed all other popular electric mountain bikes. I believe in "buy once, cry once" so I wanted a premium bike with high level components and the Motobecane HAL (highly active link) eBoost Pro fit the bill perfectly. The price difference between the HAL eBoost Pro and other comparable bikes is pretty shocking. The competition started at around $5,500 and went up.

The HAL eBoost Pro Shimano E8000 motor and running gear are top rate along with the RockShox Pike front fork and RockShox Monarch rear shock. The frame is a high quality unit from Taiwan with a strong track record and reviews of the bike are very strong--it's a very capable mountain bike and at 48lbs it's as light as any other electric mountain bike.

Motobecane HAL eBoost Pro

The RockShox Pike front fork is adjustable for air pressure, rebound and low speed compression. The front fork and the rear wheel have 140mm (5.5") of travel. The rear RockShox shock is adjustable for air pressure and rebound. It also has a lockout lever when you'd prefer a hard tail.​

I ordered the bike from BikesDirect.com on Wednesday and it was delivered six days later by FedEx. The bike arrived without a single scratch. I took my time assembling it in about two hours. Assembly requires installing the seatpost (seat already attached), front brake disc, front wheel, handlebar and pedals. The steering stem had one spacer above it so I removed the stem and placed the spacer below the stem to get the handle bar as high as possible. The bike looks like a freakin' sex machine.

​

Well Packed With No Damage

The bike didn't have a single scratch. Nice job BikesDirect.com.​

Putting It Together

Don't remove the front disc caliper plastic spacer until after the caliper is installed loosely on the fork, the front brake disc has been installed and the wheel is ready to go on. With the wheel and brake disc installed and while applying the front brake, tighten the caliper bolts. This will center the caliper on the disc. I was really surprised by how light the big fat wheels and tires were. They will be even lighter when I pull the tubes and go tubeless.​

Pivot The Motor

To install the seatpost you have to pivot the motor down to allow the seatpost dropper cable to slide past the motor. Remove the two small bolts holding the motor front skid plate. Loosen the two upper-forward motor bolts and remove the others. The motor bolts take a Torx T-30 security bit.

To get to the motor bolts you have to remove the 4 chainring bolts to access 2 of the motor bolts. The chainring bolts take a Torx T-25 security bit. You do not need to remove the crank to get to the motor bolts. The motor only needs to drop an inch or so to allow the cable to slide. Get the cable connected to the seatpost actuator then pull on the dropper cable where it exits the frame near the handlebar. Lower the seatpost into position as you pull the cable.

​

Spoke Tension Chart

I use the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter to check and adjust spoke tension. Since 25 (120kgf) is max I plan to set spokes to 23 (96kgf).​

The WTB rims are "tubeless compatible" and need tubeless tape installed. To go tubeless I will remove the tubes, install tape on the rims, add tubeless Presta valves and add 4oz of Stan's No Tubes Sealant to each tire. I added an Elemnt Bolt bike computer with speed, cadence and heart rate sensors. Other than that the bike was just about perfect for my needs.

Shimano E8000 controller at right, Elemnt Bolt bike computer added at top. The Bolt monitors and records GPS track, speed, distance, pedaling cadence, heart rate and calories burned and uploads workouts to Strava.

​

Frame Made In Taiwan

The fork and rear shock have red o-rings to help you set sag and monitor stroke length and bottoming. Remove the cap at upper right to access the air valve to adjust air pressure. Low speed compression is adjusted using the knob at the top of the right (left in picture) fork tube. Rebound is adjusted using a knob at the bottom of the fork leg.​

P.S. I have no affiliation with BikesDirect.com, I'm just a very happy customer.

Thanks for the great info on running the dropper! I would have hoped motobecane would have changed that by now but I doubt it. Very easy to do that way with locktite in hand.

 

[gehu]

Interesting that your 42cm HAL electric looks to be about 22.75" for the measured top tube to the seat clamp which should be about ideal for me (especially considering that the dropper that is now included is a single bolt type and has an extra 15mm set back compared to your more common zero set back two bolt post), whereas my 43cm HAL Boost that I am trying to compare to is more like 22.1" even with the 15mm extra. My seat post on the HAL boost 43 still has exactly 10mm more extension to the insertion line that it could go higher so theoretically the 42cm electric should barely make it without having to go to the bigger size with it's higher stack height. As long as you have your tape measure out, can you measure from the crank center to the top of your seat tube? My 43 measures 17.25"/ 43.8cm so if your bike measures at least 16 7/8"/ 42.8cm then I can order the 42 HAL electric.
.
PS. I am 5'9 with 32 inseam and 60 years old and it is very hilly in Syracuse, NY. I can still ride my naturally asperated bikes at the front of the B group but occasionally get the chance to tag along at the back with the racers who know the more epic trails and the ebike will allow me to catch back on by the top of the climbs.

Love the fact they changed to the Kind with setback. Crazy that no other dropper manufactures make those with the new upright seat angle thing in the industry.
I have bought 2 kinds for my other ebikes that I want droppers on because the geometry of those of course has gone to the upright seat angles as opposed to classic and it really messes with my knees in that far forward position.
I am your size and ordered the 42 with the 16.5 seat tube length which is really too low for a medium imho but exackly right for their size ranges and they limit to and should not be bad with the dropper. Wish like heck they ran this in Xs it would be perfect for my wife.

 

[FlatSix911]

Shimano STEPS E7000 in Review

The brand-new STEPS E7000 is the more affordable version of Shimano’s popular performance motor. It’s lighter and not as powerful as its bigger (and more expensive) sibling, the STEPS E8000, but does this necessarily make it worse? Click here to find out what it takes to be the best eMTB motor...

ebike-mtb.com

To make a long story short I know that I will be fine with a 60nm torque limit (which I will set it back to)...I am really pretty fine with a 50nm and able to keep up with all the in town speed demon racer rides we do so....Btw, there is also videos on youtube testing one against the other and of course they find E8 is brute stronger on a non technical climb but some felt the E7 was easier to clear stuff in technical terrain. I find that really kinda silly as I simply set my boost mode properly on my E8 lower so to modulate it better so it doesn't shoot out from under me on the gnarly steep stuff. So, then easy to understand why the e7 "seems" to modulates in rough terrain. Fun stuff !

Congratulations on the new BD with the E7000 and thanks for sharing the article.
Nice to know that Shimano allows a great deal of user control on the motor settings.

 

[gehu]

Wish I knew this one.

This bike is such a great value and checks all the boxes I care about. Great components, designed to take both 27.5 and 29 (very few ebikes have this flexibility, i don't know why ).

It seems E8000 is superior to the gen 2 cx and very close to the gen 4 CX(The size, weight output are all very very similar between gen 4 cx and E8000, I wish I had the chance to try them out side by side). Ease of upgrading to Di2 and not being locked up to one manufacturer for batteries makes Shimano very appealing even if it is slightly less refined than gen 4 Bosch.

True that. I have a Bosch on my gravel bike and this E7000 will be my second Shim motor adding to my E8000 on my other mtb. Reason is simple I hate the gestapo tactics of Bosch. Not only do they lock you into modes with no ability to adjust the assist levels at there 4 modes, but they make hacking it for third parties very very difficult as well as their with their batteries potentially bricking themselves if you try and replace the cells I have heard...at least though I found a guy who if you send him your battery he will guarantee it for a year after replacing the cells for only 260 bucks shipped. Oh yea, and overpriced. My E8000 I use StUnlocker and easily set my level I want 0-100+% at the various modes. Eplus is working on a solution to be able to do that with the Bosch motors but it so much harder to do than with Shim's that it is taking them years. Not to mention the fact that Bosch used to have a system that allowed user to set their own assist levels and for some inexplicable reason they took it away ! Now, I love how quiet the Bosch is compared to the growling loudly E8000 as well as the E8's "clunk" when engaging verses smoother Bosch. But, again, can't get over.....ya know...
Ps, Bosch you can't buy a tool to reset the notorious I think it is 504* error, dealer only. As you know Shim you can buy your own tool Sm-PCE2 to do diagnostics and reset.*I am NDA on which one but one of the big Bosch speed delimiting tools company is working on a tool to plug be able to bluetooth the Bosch engines and reset any codes you want. Supposed to be out this year.
Also, friend in a big Bosch motor repair company that I can't name sent me this pic that shows the tool that Bosch actually has to program their motors by the user but they won't let anyone have it. You could have completely configured the level of assist in Eco, Tour, Sport, Turbo. He described Bosch best as draconian (along with the UK ebike laws. lol)

Configuring E7000/E8000/EP8 with StUnlocker

 

[Southern Kiwi]

Not available here unfortunately but I am delighted that Motobecane is back in the game. In the 90s-early 2000s, I owned a Motobecane 50cc moped named Mimi. She went well around the city but really e-bikes are so much more efficient and cleaner! I then had a Vespa for a while, also fun, but again, e-bikes now have so many advantages.

 

[JRA]

Not available here unfortunately but I am delighted that Motobecane is back in the game. In the 90s-early 2000s, I owned a Motobecane 50cc moped named Mimi. She went well around the city but really e-bikes are so much more efficient and cleaner! I then had a Vespa for a while, also fun, but again, e-bikes now have so many advantages.

Of note is the fact that the Motobecane of old is not the same company in regards to manufacturing. Bikes Direct got ahold of the name and uses it on their Asian built bikes which really is neither here nor there. I'm awaiting word myself on one of their models and have purchased a few in the past when looking for the best possible deal.

 

[bob armani]

True that. I have a Bosch on my gravel bike and this E7000 will be my second Shim motor adding to my E8000 on my other mtb. Reason is simple I hate the gestapo tactics of Bosch. Not only do they lock you into modes with no ability to adjust the assist levels at there 4 modes, but they make hacking it for third parties very very difficult as well as their with their batteries potentially bricking themselves if you try and replace the cells I have heard...at least though I found a guy who if you send him your battery he will guarantee it for a year after replacing the cells for only 260 bucks shipped. Oh yea, and overpriced. My E8000 I use StUnlocker and easily set my level I want 0-100+% at the various modes. Eplus is working on a solution to be able to do that with the Bosch motors but it so much harder to do than with Shim's that it is taking them years. Not to mention the fact that Bosch used to have a system that allowed user to set their own assist levels and for some inexplicable reason they took it away ! Now, I love how quiet the Bosch is compared to the growling loudly E8000 as well as the E8's "clunk" when engaging verses smoother Bosch. But, again, can't get over.....ya know...
Ps, Bosch you can't buy a tool to reset the notorious I think it is 504* error, dealer only. As you know Shim you can buy your own tool Sm-PCE2 to do diagnostics and reset.*I am NDA on which one but one of the big Bosch speed delimiting tools company is working on a tool to plug be able to bluetooth the Bosch engines and reset any codes you want. Supposed to be out this year.
Also, friend in a big Bosch motor repair company that I can't name sent me this pic that shows the tool that Bosch actually has to program their motors by the user but they won't let anyone have it. You could have completely configured the level of assist in Eco, Tour, Sport, Turbo. He described Bosch best as draconian (along with the UK ebike laws. lol)

View attachment 81829
Configuring E7000/E8000/EP8 with StUnlocker
View attachment 81830

"I hate the gestapo tactics of Bosch"- Try using a speed delimiter on one of their motors. It can potentially get 'bricked' if/when you have software diagnostics done by a Bosch certified rep. Not sure if it can be 'un-bricked' at that point or not.