Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Stefan Mikes said:
The "warranty service" might indeed be a European thing.
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yes, such provisions or limitations on warranties are generally illegal in the united states since the mid 1970s. california has even gone further, requiring manufacturers to note on the warranty cards that you don’t have to send them in.
 
Nubnub said:
Same here, registered bike with Specialized but don't see anything about required service to maintain warranty. Normally my LBS would do included minor tune-ups adjustments for free for the life of the bike. But with the click to collect model they do not. They didn't even put their bike shop sticker on it. Good news in the SF bay area is the Flex store sounds like they are ready to do mobile service. I'll probably call and ask about any required warranty service/inspection. I believe I would have to meet them somewhere within their service radius for any service work - but that should be doable. The Santa Cruz Experience people suggested that it would be at Peet's Coffee and they would spring for the drink while I wait.
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I did buy from a local shop and it included a 90 day tuneup/checkout to adjust cables or look for any issues on the new bike.
 
Been riding about 13 miles/day, skipped 3 days while I was under the weather and rode the old bike one day so I have 300 miles on the Como already. Downloaded Mission Control and was able to dial down the assist to where I want it and scarcely using any battery at all for now and working on my cadence. I'm always afraid I'll forget to turn the bike off but if I do is there an automatic shutoff if it doesn't see any activity for a certain amount of time? Also, is there a way to fix it so the lights do not come on automatically every time I power up?
 
bigb said:
Been riding about 13 miles/day, skipped 3 days while I was under the weather and rode the old bike one day so I have 300 miles on the Como already. Downloaded Mission Control and was able to dial down the assist to where I want it and scarcely using any battery at all for now and working on my cadence. I'm always afraid I'll forget to turn the bike off but if I do is there an automatic shutoff if it doesn't see any activity for a certain amount of time? Also, is there a way to fix it so the lights do not come on automatically every time I power up?
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I believe that after a certain period of inactivity, the power will shut off. It does on my Creo and sometimes I forget and start pedaling and realize the oomph is gone.
 
Quick question for recent model Vado 5.0 owners….

What’s the routing path for the wires powering the tail light and Varia?

Up through the inside of the fender? Or separate with the tail light wiring coming up thru the rack on the left side?

Was curious since after diving down a rabbit hole it seems wiring routes might be separate? One inside fender and over along chainstay and inside rack tubing?

Different rear fender for 5.0 vs 4.0/3.0 per https://support.specialized.com/turbovado/en/service-maintenance/replacement-parts
875BEADC-0B34-4A7D-AE70-E1499A67D72D.jpeg

Then this page links (click on Spanninga Commuter Glow) to https://spanninga.com/product/commuter-glow/

The manual shown there suggests a thru-rack wire routing to the left chainstay.
80AE3F82-4AC0-414E-9EA7-62F6ABA27C04.jpeg

And thus my curiosity.
 
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Checking back to see if anyone has attached a trailer to their Vado IGH. I'm trying to figure out how to tow a Thule Chariot with my Vado 5.0 IGH. From the Specialized site, I see that the rear hub is "Enviolo Heavy Duty, 380% range, 6-bolt, 10x135mm, 32h". Looking at the Thule adapter guide, I think this means I need a Internal Hub Hitch Adapter SRAM, M10x1.0 (part# 20100798). I tried confirming this with Thule, but they wouldn't give me an answer.

Appreciate any wisdom from the experts here!
 
ColeWorld said:
Checking back to see if anyone has attached a trailer to their Vado IGH. I'm trying to figure out how to tow a Thule Chariot with my Vado 5.0 IGH. From the Specialized site, I see that the rear hub is "Enviolo Heavy Duty, 380% range, 6-bolt, 10x135mm, 32h". Looking at the Thule adapter guide, I think this means I need a Internal Hub Hitch Adapter SRAM, M10x1.0 (part# 20100798). I tried confirming this with Thule, but they wouldn't give me an answer.

Appreciate any wisdom from the experts here!
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Yes. That is correct. I have the Burley trailer and use a M10 nutted adapter for that. Looking at your link, it looks very similar to what Thule uses for theirs.
 
Interesting datapoint for folks considering 2022 Vado 4.0 vs 5.0

I'd emailed RiderCare asking about the weights for the size Medium. Response was that the 4.0 weighs 58.2lb and the 5.0 weighs 55.8lb.

They further confirmed the 2.4lb difference when I expressed surprise. Apparently a good chunk of it is the fork upgrade.
 
gpburdell said:
Interesting datapoint for folks considering 2022 Vado 4.0 vs 5.0

I'd emailed RiderCare asking about the weights for the size Medium. Response was that the 4.0 weighs 58.2lb and the 5.0 weighs 55.8lb.

They further confirmed the 2.4lb difference when I expressed surprise. Apparently a good chunk of it is the fork upgrade.
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an interesting data point!

one could probably get one of these bikes well below 50lb by replacing all the non-integral components, where they’re industry standard, with lighter versions. of course, durability might suffer. saddle, seat post, bars, wheels, tires, pedals, cranks, etc.
 
mschwett said:
an interesting data point!

one could probably get one of these bikes well below 50lb by replacing all the non-integral components, where they’re industry standard, with lighter versions. of course, durability might suffer. saddle, seat post, bars, wheels, tires, pedals, cranks, etc.
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I can see the big savings in the forks since that's a big chunk of metal with various internal parts, but doubt that skimping on the external components is going to save much. The savings can be a lot for the carbon-framed roadies who get ecstatic about saving a couple hundred grams, but I don't know where you could realistically take off 5 lbs or more. Maybe someone will try it and report back?
 
mschwett said:
one could probably get one of these bikes well below 50lb by replacing all the non-integral components, where they’re industry standard, with lighter versions. of course, durability might suffer. saddle, seat post, bars, wheels, tires, pedals, cranks, etc.
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My 2017 Vado 5.0 in its original form (no mods) weighed 52.9 lb (24.0 kg). It has a rigid fork. Now guess why that bike was relatively lightweight ;)
 
My B67 was getting a little soft in the upholstery department. To keep stretching it wouldn't do it any good and one alternative was to cut the center out for relief but didn't want to go that route yet. So I found some thick leather and glued a couple pieces on. Seems to work, elevates the needed parts. You can't tell it in the picture but it has taken the curve of the sit bones already and is much more comfy than when first installed, the leather was pretty thick.

I think my downfall was to apply neatsfoot oil to an already 'relatively' soft saddle. I again tried the Thudbuster with this saddle and decided against the extra suspension other than the springs on the seat. Otherwise it's a good match for the bike and my ass.

tempImageNxiwZD.png

I had also switched from the dry moly to the oil for chain lube. I thought I could take the crud and dirt but I have changed my mind on that. Cleaned the drive train and went back to the dry moly. Oil really makes a mess of multiple gear drive trains. Think if I was going to get another electric bike I'd change to fewer than 11 gears and maybe go IGH. Switching out chains and gears at the intervals that 11 spd requires is a little more costly than I'd like.
 
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Marcela said:
My B67 was getting a little soft in the upholstery department. To keep stretching it wouldn't do it any good and one alternative was to cut the center out for relief but didn't want to go that route yet. So I found some thick leather and glued a couple pieces on. Seems to work, elevates the needed parts. You can't tell it in the picture but it has taken the curve of the sit bones already and is much more comfy than when first installed, the leather was pretty thick.

I think my downfall was to apply neatsfoot oil to an already 'relatively' soft saddle. I again tried the Thudbuster with this saddle and decided against the extra suspension other than the springs on the seat. Otherwise it's a good match for the bike and my ass.

View attachment 120022
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I have added these to my saddle. They are no longer produced by the company unfortunately. I have been all over Amazon looking for similar products. Some foot inserts are similar.

Saddle Cushions.jpg
 
kahn said:
I have added these to my saddle. They are no longer produced by the company unfortunately. I have been all over Amazon looking for similar products. Some foot inserts are similar.

View attachment 120023
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That's interesting Kahn. Were those made for the bike seat or you multipurposed? That's a fairly large cutout, didn't know they took up that much real estate. I've cut on a couple but not that much. I might even have one in there already cutout by the producer, I'll have to check. I found the cutout seats get a little floppy, takes good underpinnings to keep what is left in the proper order.
 
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