Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Wow thanks for all that info Stefan! I'm going to go and adjust my main screen to show cadence and will experiment with that on tomorrow's ride. I expect to be doing a lot of experimenting at first, yesterday's experiment was my usual ride with no power at all and due to now having 10 gears instead of 3 I was able to do it in about 25% less time and my average speed was 2 MPH greater than I was getting on my 3 speed. Today's experiment was seeing how fast I could get home from the new BBQ restaurant being built right on the bikeway, I made the 6 miles in 17 minutes which includes the very steep hills, however it also cost me about 20% of my battery. Using the power today I know I didn't get as much of a workout as usual because I only drank a fraction of the water I normally do.
FWIW, I have mph, cadence and distance for the ride on my TCD main screen. My secondary screen swaps battery level for cadence. I track other stats using either Strava, Apple workouts, BLEvo or ride with gps on my apple watch.

I’m still experimenting with the right combo as I just got the TCD. My intent for the TCD is to have basic ride data on the inexpensive device on my handlebars and using my more powerful devices for health and fitness data. It’s only been a few weeks, so it’s too soon to tell.
 
I'm going to go and adjust my main screen to show cadence and will experiment with that on tomorrow's ride.
I suggest you add Cadence and Power to the Data Page #2. That will help proving the cadence and power are directly related.

I made the 6 miles in 17 minutes which includes the very steep hills, however it also cost me about 20% of my battery.
That's because gaining elevation is used to increase the potential energy of you + e-bike, which is only partly recovered on descents.

Using the power today I know I didn't get as much of a workout as usual because I only drank a fraction of the water I normally do.
Using Mission Control app, you could adjust assistance level and maximum motor power % for Eco, Sport and Turbo modes. For instance, reducing both assistance and max motor power and trying to cover the same route at similar speed will make a better workout. Do not reduce these parameters drastically in the beginning, though.
 
Will do, did some research today on cadence and it looks like I need to work on that, mine tends to settle in around 60 RPM.
If you want to practice, do it in small steps. Downshift by one gear and try to improve. My natural cadence is 76 rpm but I am usually riding above 80 because I learned doing that.
 
I've found my 11 spd really spoils me, my preferred cadence has settled into a narrow range of 80-85. fwiw.

I was watching a youtube video on rope type spokes. Pretty interesting to see if they make an impact on the bike world at an affordable price, right now they are $8 ea at one vendor.
 
Went by my local specialized lbs today. They didn't have any Teros, couldn't get any Teros, never had any Teros, and probably wouldn't get any til next year was his guess. In a town of 100k, you'd think supply wouldn't be a problem. He said that was the condition with most bikes, supply and demand issues. Or we don't make our own stuff anymore...
 
Went by my local specialized lbs today. They didn't have any Teros, couldn't get any Teros, never had any Teros, and probably wouldn't get any til next year was his guess. In a town of 100k, you'd think supply wouldn't be a problem. He said that was the condition with most bikes, supply and demand issues. Or we don't make our own stuff anymore...
If you are in Lawrence per your profile, looks like the nearest in stock is >50 miles away. All sizes of Tero 5.0 are currently available for order from the Specialized website. 3.0 and 3.0 stepthru are both out of stock in all sizes. You could try to place a tero in your cart and see if the option exists to have it sent to your LBS.
 
Of course, I really need test ride the 2021 Como and 2022 Vado to see if I like them and which feels right for me. I did find another Specialized dealer that is a 3 hour round trip in a completely different direction that actually has a 2022 Vado 4.0 in L in stock along with the same Como 3 as the other dealer, although the Vado is black, and I prefer the other 2 colors, and the Como is identical yet $300 more than the other dealer. There's a red and a white 2022 Vado 4.0 L that is more like a 7 hour round trip away.
My LBS received a bunch of 2022 Vados and Comos in the past week or so. I assume you've been able to find bikes to test ride and hopefully purchase. I just bought a Vado 4.0 about 2 weeks ago and am loving it!
 
There is nothing like PAS-only in the premium mid-drive motors. A mid-drive motor only pays the attention to the product of how hard you push your pedals (torque) and of your pedalling rotational speed (cadence). The product is called "pedalling power" or "human power input". In given Assistance Level, the bike controller multiplies your pedalling power by so called Boost Factor, and such mechanical power of the motor (combined with your own) is transferred to the rear wheel.

Meaning: "Mashing" pedals times slow cadence would give the same pedalling power as "spinning the cranks" times (less energetic) pushing the pedals. You won't get more workout by staying in a high gear; you're going to damage your knees by doing so. If you learn spinning the cranks faster but with less of pedal pressure (in a lower gear), you will deliver exactly the same pedalling power to the system with the same effective motor assistance. And the same number of calories burnt.

Spinning the cranks has many health benefits. It is also good for the drivetrain (less wear). Moreover, mid-drive motors are more effective if your cadence is above 70.

My favourite show that I am often giving to my traditional cycling mates is this:
1. I ride at a slow cadence in Eco
2. Then I dramatically downshift
3. Then I spin the cranks.

I am able to deliver so much power by doing so I simply disappear at distance -- without increasing the assistance! (On my last Sunday group ride, I managed the cadence of 135 but cannot maintain it for long).

View attachment 116223
My show. The power indicated here is the pedalling power.
 
There is nothing like PAS-only in the premium mid-drive motors. A mid-drive motor only pays the attention to the product of how hard you push your pedals (torque) and of your pedalling rotational speed (cadence). The product is called "pedalling power" or "human power input". In given Assistance Level, the bike controller multiplies your pedalling power by so called Boost Factor, and such mechanical power of the motor (combined with your own) is transferred to the rear wheel.

Meaning: "Mashing" pedals times slow cadence would give the same pedalling power as "spinning the cranks" times (less energetic) pushing the pedals. You won't get more workout by staying in a high gear; you're going to damage your knees by doing so. If you learn spinning the cranks faster but with less of pedal pressure (in a lower gear), you will deliver exactly the same pedalling power to the system with the same effective motor assistance. And the same number of calories burnt.

Spinning the cranks has many health benefits. It is also good for the drivetrain (less wear). Moreover, mid-drive motors are more effective if your cadence is above 70.

My favourite show that I am often giving to my traditional cycling mates is this:
1. I ride at a slow cadence in Eco
2. Then I dramatically downshift
3. Then I spin the cranks.

I am able to deliver so much power by doing so I simply disappear at distance -- without increasing the assistance! (On my last Sunday group ride, I managed the cadence of 135 but cannot maintain it for long).

View attachment 116223
My show. The power indicated here is the pedalling power.
Excellent info Stefan! I've been riding my 2022 Vado 4.0 for a couple of weeks now and am having fun learning how to get the best workouts. I've found a cadence of 75-85 gets the cardio workout I'm looking for. I'm using a Samsung Fit band with the Samsung Health app on my phone to monitor and record my heart rate and that cadence seems to be about right. I appreciate your comments on shifting and PAS modes and how they work together, and agree based on my first 200 miles. I've also tried out the SMART mode by setting my distance goal and desired remaining battery %. I've found that otherwise riding the same way I would in ECO mode (maintaining the desired cadence range), I get a lower level of cardio workout. So I'm only using SMART when speed and efficiency are more important than my cardio results. I've concluded (so far) that SMART is good for group rides at higher steady speeds and ECO (or SPORT if necessary) is good for my solo cardio workouts. More experimenting to come!
 
Welcome to the Club, JVD! Your observations are interesting. As I typically ride my older Vado 5.0 with a spare battery, the SMART mode is a no-go in most of situations for me. I prefer tuning the assistance levels for the planned ride type (e.g. group ride, long solo trip, flat/hills), distance, expected cruising speed, season, etc.

Your new Vado has the Infinite Tune option (you can tune the assistance as you're riding). I badly miss such a feature on my Vado!
 
Well this is curious...

I watched the EBR Youtube review of the Tero 4.0EQ and it seemed like they have a different mount for the TCD-w.

IMG_0579.jpegIMG_0578.jpeg

The non-EQ models sold in the US appear to use the TCD MTB mount that attached to the handlebars, while this mount appears to attach between the stem and handlebar much like how the Trek/Bontrager Blendr system mounts attach. This new mount also appears to allow tilting up/down without any tools.

On the UK site they show the cables routing behind a one piece front handlebar clamp, though the video shows the cables outside the clamp.
95122-52_TERO-40-EQ-NB-BLK-BLK_D3-HT.jpeg

It'd be interesting to see if they'd sell those bits to folks who didn't buy the EQ model.

It does seem a cleaner setup than the MTB mount.

IMG_0167.jpegIMG_0166.jpeg

Here's the review:

 
it’s a nice bike! but what a mess of cables 😒

View attachment 117786

Yeah, bad enough having two hydraulic lines plus shifter, but then you add the TCD-w wire to the motor, and the wire to the handlebar remote.

Then on the 4.0 EQ model add cable for the dropper seat post and wire for the headlight.

All sorts of stuff going every which way.

Not keen on the headlight-on-a-bit-of-wire contraption either, but since the EQ model isn't available in the US I guess I needn't be concerned about that. :)
 
Yeah, bad enough having two hydraulic lines plus shifter, but then you add the TCD-w wire to the motor, and the wire to the handlebar remote.

Then on the 4.0 EQ model add cable for the dropper seat post and wire for the headlight.

All sorts of stuff going every which way.

Not keen on the headlight-on-a-bit-of-wire contraption either, but since the EQ model isn't available in the US I guess I needn't be concerned about that. :)
and what is the one on the far right of the image, appears to go from the left shifter area directly to the fork?
 
It'd be interesting to see if they'd sell those bits to folks who didn't buy the EQ model.

It does seem a cleaner setup than the MTB mount.

View attachment 117773View attachment 117774

Here's the review:

I have a couple of the stem/handlebar garmin mounts that I don't use. One was in the uninstalled extra parts from my 4.0 SL eq. Since I didnt know what it was I just used a regular garmin mount and I'm fine with that. The second came with my Tero. They did put the mtn bike mount on for the Mastermind but also included the stem mount in the extra parts. So I don't use that one either. If you want one of them, let me know and I can mail them to you.
 
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