Show us pictures of your cockpit!

We both like the moóstash bars!
You have a link to that one?
I cut an inch from each end of the bar. It is 640mm wide, or 25". Also the white logos look crappy, so I dab them with foam that I have painted with black nail polish. The foam dabbing matches the bar's texture. I just staged that bike with a girly basket and a bouquet from the dollar store. The last time I did that a bike sold in 24-hours. What I like doesn't matter because I am not the customer. This one already has a home. I will let the girls ride on my moustache.. bar.

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I cut an inch from each end of the bar. It is 640mm wide, or 25". Also the white logos look crappy, so I dab them with foam that I have painted with black nail polish. The foam dabbing matches the bar's texture. I just staged that bike with a girly basket and a bouquet from the dollar store. The last time I did that a bike sold in 24-hours. What I like doesn't matter because I am not the customer. This one already has a home. I will let the girls ride on my moustache.. bar.

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I believe that's the same bar I have on my bike now as it has the same photos 👍
 
I knew I recognised them! :) I still own a pair of green Chesters but am a fan of CrankBrothers Stamp Large pedals because of my feet size ;)

Good brakes are the most important ride safety item. Congratulations on your smart decisions!
I totally agree and like the large Stamp's - as used on my other machine.

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For the hub bike I'm switching to RF's Ride (no metal studs) pedals.
E-bikes are not waterproof to any safe degree and Mid drives are particularly vulnerable since any water down any tube all funnels right to the motor.
I avoid wet conditions or mud, so metal studded pedals are rather superfluous - but great at ruining the soles of $375.00 alligator riding shoes !!!
20230829_123424[1].jpg

Also, I don't like having to lift my foot off to move it over.

RaceFace pedals are lightweight - even compared to most alloy types.
My hub drive
Replacing my stock clunkers w Chesters I lost 150gms - which fit's in with my quirky scheme to create a street legal, <50lb, 1000watt hub-drive bike - no, I'm not there yet, but damn near.
The Ride pedal's plastic studs are not slippery in dry conditions.

For reference:
Ride 320gms
Chester 360gms (40gms of metal studs)
Stamp 1 329gms
Stamp 2 494gms
Stamp 3 351gms
Stamp 7 380gms
Stamp 11 325gms
My hub drive's stock platform pedals 510gms (as I remember). Ugh !!!

Since it goes with the theme, I'd like the titanium spindled ($299.99) Stamp 11's for (number two) Gumbo.
I'm good w/ steel spindled Stamp 1's because 5grams isn't worth $50 per gm over the S 1's $49.99.
Austerity measures are here an my bike expenditures are cut a bit.
Next big expenditure(s) will be a 70mm titanium stem/ possibly titanium Jones Loop-bars.
I have sets of both 2.5" rise and 0 rise butted types Jones'.
Again 515 - 525gms for my alloy and 562gms for titanium. I'm gaining 37 - 47gms, not stronger, not faster.
Not going to happen.
For the stem, the Billet ($400) Roost Dominator would be my first choice, but it only goes up to 42mm lengths. ^%$@#&.
Compared to welding tubes together, creating billet (machining) titanium is expensive.

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...................................................................................................................................................................................................

The Mythos (3d printed in UK) is also nice (crudely finished), but ridiculously price (>$400), AND they only make 40 - 50mm lengths.
-
An experienced outlook you have.
Stopping is far more important than going. Any fool can butt heads with a rhino.
We have choices stopping, but only the inevitable going. lol
I know I've locked Gumbo up and 'modulated' 5 times to control a stop from 26ish mph - when a moving truck backed out in front of me. How close? If I'd paused, to even think and mentally record how close I'd be meat sauce. I was TOO close, stopped roughly 2' from that truck - out to kill me.
In the City, brakes are a much bigger deal that down a dirt country road, clearly seeing six ton boulders ahead.
We get pinned in a canyon of fixed objects on one side, and moving objects (w/ 100 to 100,000 x our mass) on the other. We also have mobile 'pop-out' 11,000lb steel boulders with blind unpredictable alien zombies at the controls.
Do whatever with horns, lights, etc, they'll still run you over/ back out and stop/ open doors in front of you, and say: oh, nice horn - beep- beep- beep, emanating from a mangled heap of red you - or 'Dang, he got blood all over my Chevy Dualy's armrest', from the door owner.
It happens so fast, mirrors are useless. You're looking (Brain: dang thing, gotta adjust it better) and boulder pulls out from parked cars. You wake up and say: I don't know what happened ???
W/ all due respect for passivism, my ONLY Defense is STAYING on the Offense - able to stop predictably, as fast as possible w/ no fade BS.
Magura brakes are hot-stuff. Mt 7e's for the HD rider (on or off road) and MT 5e's the still powerful second best remain head-and-shoulders above any competitors.
In both cases Magura MDR P rotors for the front are a good idea. Rear is not needed, but you'll still need a Magura disc.
I just saw MT 5e's for $115 on Amazon.
Rotor is 60 - $70. 00
$30 for the adapter.
Under $225 per wheel.
MT 7e's add $100.

Fn'F
 
Boy, I did messed this up,

"https://ibb.co/D91M3Px"
Rear view, showing my traffic safety stick/flag, l to r, left turn signal,
read facing Akaso V50-x action camera, white x is a dual flashing tail light,
below it, is my auto stop brake light and flashing lite, right turn signal,
and helmet with extra battery power pack, sitting on empty, for now, rear rack.

"https://ibb.co/z21rc98"
L-R, left mirror, 1/2 twist throttle with cruise control, electronic horn, round item hanging below H bars, useless, Top bar forward facing Akaso V50-X mini action camera, Wilie E Coyote riding buddy, Garmin GPS, in the RAM mount, Meep Meep Roadrunner another riding buddy, Long Range 300' + night light, control for the turn signals, right mirror.

"https://ibb.co/1TLHy6B"
Helmet with another Akaso camera and also has an extra battery for running the camera, in the front basket, tools for the bike, a 8'- 1/2" harden cable and a shorter cable for locking the handle bars during a very quick stop over, 3.0L camel bak H2o water system, back under the seat/fender area is the extra battery pack to run both cameras, with power cords running to each camera.

"https://ibb.co/7nHgSHQ"
Close up of the rear signal bar and on the right side, (yellow bungee cord) is the chain tensioner for when I destroy the derailleur and have to switch to single speed gearing.

"https://ibb.co/cQWS2VD"
Head on view.

Now I have to find a Meep Meep horn for the Roadrunner buddy..........LoL
 
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"https://ibb.co/7nHgSHQ"
Close up of the rear signal bar and on the right side, (yellow bungee cord) is the chain tensioner for when I destroy the derailleur and have to switch to single speed gearing.

You might want to mount or carry your chain tensioner somewhere else.

The impact that takes out your derailleur might also smash your chain tensioner.

Screenshot_20230830-194817_DuckDuckGo.jpg



It looks like your tensioner might hit the ground if your bike falls over.
 
I'm sure some thought I was joking.
While I mounted it on the top-tube, right between my legs and use a velcro strap for quick deployment,
here's King Cage's 'Mace-y Thing' cage for holding Bear Spray.
1693442423970.png
Load image into Gallery viewer, Mace-y ThingLoad image into Gallery viewer, Mace-y ThingLoad image into Gallery viewer, Mace-y Thing Load and play video in Gallery viewer, Mace-y Thing
Mace-y Thing
Regular price$55.00
Mini Thing Cage with Top Cap Cage Mount & Koozie.
This combination of items can be used to mount bear spray for each access when riding in wilderness terrain.
Mini Thing Cage
Made of Titanium Solid Rod
2-bolt mount
Top Cap Cage Mount
Mounts to any top cap style stem
Fits any cage
Easy to mount
2-bolt mount
Includes (1) 12" Nano Voile Strap and slim can koozie in a variety of colors for protection
*Not liable for accidents related to the risks involved with using bear spray
.........................................................................................................................................
Both that cage and the Any-thing cage are pretty nice for holding bottles/ cannisters.
My other bottle cage - 30gms - is also titanium wire (tubing is the cheaper stuff and far weaker).
One run of those minimalist cages was produced. I was a late buyer and had to settle for 'rainbow' color. Looked like a 'pride flag'. I stripped several with acid and polished w/ emery cloth a bit to bring back the natural ti color and a smooth, matt finish.
The refreshment station is part of my cockpit.
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Double duty for tool-kit and a four-18650 cell charger in one bottle-bag.
I see there's a new DPC - 18 Display w/ USB port for about $100 on aliexpress. On my short list.
Could turn out prudent to have a spare the way the PRC relationship is going.
We (WW owners) already got hit by the N/A loss of the X1 (Innotrace) controller.
Burn that module, that WW goes from 2300watts (sipping energy like it's 1000watts), to 1500watts (gorging on 2000watts) - w/ Bafang's latest.
My only proof of that'd be company literature and graphs, but for seeing 40miles on 75% of charge, with a 16A battery and damn near killed myself in Sports modes (2300watts) bringing that down to 39miles - over three charges. I'd say in full-on up-hill competition, a pro might hit 37, 38miles range.
My point is parts we love that work, redundancy is a good idea.
I see homeless guys plodding along with industrial size bags of precious cargo on the bars. Cans.
Hoards of Slo-lane 250 - 750watt motors w/ added slow-down tonnage really leave a good impression on the auto set (Toys in the adult's way:mad:), but no worries, cheap PRC motors burn out pretty quick.
For a fact: Cockpit reflects knowledge, experience, reverence to past masters and good taste...
... not the ability to watch Bat Man reruns.
Rule is: if not required, not on the machine.

Always,

Fast and Furious
 
That figures, in Spain. In Portugal the gamest bulls are spared and live on to breed more giants.
You have a fighting instinct, it beats being eaten - and you get a harem.
Bovine Heaven. 21 Cows and all the hay you can eat.
 
Cockpits do vary
Some are complex.
cockpit.jpeg
cockpit 2.jpg

Others "brutalism determined", idealists ...................................................Then we have the "stuff collectors"
cockpit 3.jpg
Full cockpit.jpg


But when 'Image is everything' ...

Cockpit 4.jpg

Some homie be rollin' wit da simple 'pit !!!

Fn'F
 
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You might want to mount or carry your chain tensioner somewhere else.

The impact that takes out your derailleur might also smash your chain tensioner.

View attachment 161674


It looks like your tensioner might hit the ground if your bike falls over.
PC
The 1-1/2" PVC signal light bar holder is over 21" long, with approximately 8+"
sticking out on each side, from the edge of the back rack.
It's funny" that you mentioned the tensioner hitting the ground, as yesterday the wind blew the bike over on that side, when I checked the bike (no damage found), there was a dirt mark on the handle bar end and the end of the back light bar, and no dirt on the tensioner/derailleur.
Makes a good safety bar for flop overs.....
this tensioner and it's position now really deflects the sage brush from be caught in the derailleur arm so far, when in the lower gears.

When I am deploying the tensioner, I have to undo 2 bolts and slide the roller end
the opposite way as shown in the photo, I had to make a slightly longer bar roller shaft to reach the tallest gears. This tensioner is for a light MC chain set up, very heavy duty construction 1/2" thick Alum.

When in use, I can use 2-3 gears per length setting. Seems to work very well,
and does reduce the chain slack flopping around when going to single gear use,
as I have been double checking it's use..

I just have to find the correct position for the long arm (5-6-7 o'clock) side view
when in the lowest gear positions, as there is about 10 links difference in OEM chain longer length as compared to the KCM #9 E chain shorter length, I just bought.

I may have to make some length adjustment to the chain length. Still testing.
Thanks,
Don
 
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It's funny" that you mentioned the tensioner hitting the ground, as yesterday the wind blew the bike over on that side, when I checked the bike (no damage found),.. no dirt on the tensioner/derailleur,..

I'm wondering if you were to hit a rock that is capable of smashing your derailleur,.. it might hit your tensioner as well?
You might break the plastic wheel or bend the rod and not be able to get it out.

Being as you have to undo it anyway to deploy it, it's probably safer to store it somewhere else.

When I am deploying the tensioner, I have to undo 2 bolts and slide the roller end the opposite way as shown in the photo,..

It sure looks like it is sticking out ?
A rock might clear your pedal and hit it.
It looks precariously perched right there, just looking for a rock or stump to hit.

It's supposed to be for an emergency, but an accident may break your tensioner or even your derailleur too ?

20230826-145012.jpg


it's position now really deflects the sage brush from be caught in the derailleur arm so far, when in the lower gears.


That's a positive.

Maybe you could make a little brush guard to install instead ?
 
I did a lot to make my Vado SL serve my purposes but remain possibly as lightweight as designed.

View attachment 160073
It is slightly front heavy because of Innerbarends, Redshift Shock Stop suspension stem, the Wahoo, and the rear-view mirror. However, when weighted, it is still 17.0 kg without the Range Extender battery and the water bottle: as originally specified.
i like it thats clean here is mine
 

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Foam wash!!!!
These Bafangs are virtually impossible to break. Water proof Brah!
Agreed, but M620 isn't the only issue. How about your battery? The controller?
If your frame has any internal ports for cables/ wiring, all water in funnels right into the motor bracket.
No way internal batteries are safer than external either.
Like hang-gliding, chances are I'd get away with it. If the bike's replaceable the convenience is worth the risk.
I wash the Lm'td, but polish Her Highness, de Gumbo. Replacing that controller is unlikely.
While ti frames have a lot of water inlet points, the external battery could be wrapped w/rubber.
Too many fail-points.
I hear ya though. If it bugged me I'd build an ip67 bike for water sports.
Might have to with this El Nino.
lithium battery fires.jpg


Hey, have you looked at creosote based grease (gear coating)? Lubriplate makes some as I remember.
Mobil works and has the advertising advantage.
There should be horizontal lines in your gear's faces. That's to detect wear.
Good cleaning and magnifying glass inspection is in order. It could be the gears are not up to the application, or one bad gear causing trouble.
My forte's diagnosis and mitigation. Can't have a solution lest you understand the problem.
Why I subscribe to the KISS principle. The nub. What's wearing and what's not. What caused this to explode?
Works in Oil Refineries, no less so on ebikes.
A note on that. Forensics indicate the usual cause for the explosions is information overload.
40 gauges going bananas when only one that tells you 'you better RUN' is important.
My thinking is 'simplicity is the essence of success'.

Fn'F
 
PC
The 1-1/2" PVC signal light bar holder is over 21" long, with approximately 8+"
sticking out on each side, from the edge of the back rack.
It's funny" that you mentioned the tensioner hitting the ground, as yesterday the wind blew the bike over on that side, when I checked the bike (no damage found), there was a dirt mark on the handle bar end and the end of the back light bar, and no dirt on the tensioner/derailleur.
Makes a good safety bar for flop overs.....
this tensioner and it's position now really deflects the sage brush from be caught in the derailleur arm so far, when in the lower gears.

When I am deploying the tensioner, I have to undo 2 bolts and slide the roller end
the opposite way as shown in the photo, I had to make a slightly longer bar roller shaft to reach the tallest gears. This tensioner is for a light MC chain set up, very heavy duty construction 1/2" thick Alum.

When in use, I can use 2-3 gears per length setting. Seems to work very well,
and does reduce the chain slack flopping around when going to single gear use,
as I have been double checking it's use..

I just have to find the correct position for the long arm (5-6-7 o'clock) side view
when in the lowest gear positions, as there is about 10 links difference in OEM chain longer length as compared to the KCM #9 E chain shorter length, I just bought.

I may have to make some length adjustment to the chain length. Still testing.
Thanks,
Don
WOW !!! You drive through Sage Brush?
 
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