I knew I recognised them!
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I still own a pair of green Chesters but am a fan of CrankBrothers Stamp Large pedals because of my feet size
Good brakes are the most important ride safety item. Congratulations on your smart decisions!
I totally agree and like the large Stamp's - as used on my other machine.
For the hub bike I'm switching to RF's Ride (no metal studs) pedals.
E-bikes are not waterproof to any safe degree and Mid drives are particularly vulnerable since any water down any tube all funnels right to the motor.
I avoid wet conditions or mud, so metal studded pedals are rather superfluous - but great at ruining the soles of $375.00 alligator riding shoes !!!
Also, I don't like having to lift my foot off to move it over.
RaceFace pedals are lightweight - even compared to most alloy types.
My hub drive
Replacing my stock clunkers w Chesters I lost 150gms - which fit's in with my quirky scheme to create a street legal, <50lb, 1000watt hub-drive bike - no, I'm not there yet, but damn near.
The Ride pedal's plastic studs are not slippery in dry conditions.
For reference:
Ride 320gms
Chester 360gms (40gms of metal studs)
Stamp 1 329gms
Stamp 2 494gms
Stamp 3 351gms
Stamp 7 380gms
Stamp 11 325gms
My hub drive's stock platform pedals 510gms (as I remember). Ugh !!!
Since it goes with the theme, I'd like the titanium spindled ($299.99) Stamp 11's for (number two) Gumbo.
I'm good w/ steel spindled Stamp 1's because 5grams isn't worth $50 per gm over the S 1's $49.99.
Austerity measures are here an my bike expenditures are cut a bit.
Next big expenditure(s) will be a 70mm titanium stem/ possibly titanium Jones Loop-bars.
I have sets of both 2.5" rise and 0 rise butted types Jones'.
Again 515 - 525gms for my alloy and 562gms for titanium. I'm
gaining 37 - 47gms, not stronger, not faster.
Not going to happen.
For the stem, the Billet ($400)
Roost Dominator would be my first choice, but it only goes up to 42mm lengths. ^%$@#&.
Compared to welding tubes together, creating billet (machining) titanium is expensive.
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The Mythos (3d printed in UK) is also nice (crudely finished), but ridiculously price (>$400), AND they only make 40 - 50mm lengths.
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An experienced outlook you have.
Stopping
is far more important than going. Any fool can butt heads with a rhino.
We have choices stopping, but only the inevitable going. lol
I know I've locked Gumbo up and 'modulated' 5 times to control a stop from 26ish mph - when a moving truck backed out in front of me. How close? If I'd paused, to even think and mentally record how close I'd be meat sauce. I was TOO close, stopped roughly 2' from that truck - out to kill me.
In the City, brakes are a much bigger deal that down a dirt country road, clearly seeing six ton boulders ahead.
We get pinned in a canyon of fixed objects on one side, and moving objects (w/ 100 to 100,000 x our mass) on the other. We also have
mobile 'pop-out' 11,000lb steel boulders with blind unpredictable alien zombies at the controls.
Do whatever with horns, lights, etc, they'll still run you over/ back out and stop/ open doors in front of you, and say: oh, nice horn - beep- beep- beep, emanating from a mangled heap of red you - or 'Dang, he got blood all over my Chevy Dualy's armrest', from the door owner.
It happens so fast, mirrors are useless. You're looking (Brain: dang thing, gotta adjust it better) and boulder pulls out from parked cars. You wake up and say:
I don't know what happened ???
W/ all due respect for passivism, my ONLY Defense is STAYING on the Offense - able to stop predictably, as fast as possible w/ no fade BS.
Magura brakes are hot-stuff. Mt 7e's for the HD rider (on or off road) and MT 5e's the still powerful second best remain head-and-shoulders above any competitors.
In both cases Magura MDR P rotors for the front are a good idea. Rear is not needed, but you'll still need a Magura disc.
I just saw MT 5e's for $115 on Amazon.
Rotor is 60 - $70. 00
$30 for the adapter.
Under $225 per wheel.
MT 7e's add $100.
Fn'F