Riding Mid Drive on only highest gear

Actually you are mistaken. Coolant systems for E-bikes are being explored because there's a need.

For example:

And Falco is largely a failed company. FFS You have a motor rated around 120Nm and 500W capable of peaks to 1000W. Use proper gearing. You're using it as designed, no need for something as complex and silly as liquid cooling. So yes, liquid cooling has been around for computers for a couple of decades. All so some dweeb can play a more complex game on a less able chip.

You have an able motor, water cooling does nothing for you.

Stop reading and go riding.

Start around mid gear then once you are upto speed shift as needed.
That may not be the best advice depending on the start grade. IMO and in nearly a decade of support and riding all BBSxx series motors I found that the BEST advice is to ride like you had no motor on the start. Would you pedal start on a slope in mid gear? I wouldn't so I don't expect my motors too.
 
Spinning makes for overall health, nice legs and is good for the bike. That is an 11-50 cassette, 355%.
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the only time your going to overeat brakes is on long descents that you ride the brakes on. it can happen on our tandem but its like 400 pounds and braking skill will take most of that out. Plus we don't like going super fast going down hill. all you have to do is brake hard to slow down the let go again and the brakes will cool down. with fat tires and upright position that will keep the speed down all on its own.
 
Engineers can't imagine every situation that the general public can do to a product. I was an engineer at Caterpillar. No matter what we did, some owner could still destroy parts by some method. One customer kept destroying the bucket linkage on his loader. A site visit revealed that operators were catching boulders that bulldozers were shoving off the cliff.
I was responsible for Product Verification and Validation at one of your competitors. Everytime a customer got creative, our PV&V test criteria expanded across all product lines.
 
Engineers can't imagine every situation that the general public can do to a product. I was an engineer at Caterpillar. No matter what we did, some owner could still destroy parts by some method. One customer kept destroying the bucket linkage on his loader. A site visit revealed that operators were catching boulders that bulldozers were shoving off the cliff.
Any company I worked for would have instantly dismissed an operator for that recklessness.
 
My dad was a scientist, chem engineering. He had a bunch of patents. But his most interesting work was failure analysis. He would figure out how a helicopter blade snapped or a locomotive exploded. In my own way I figure out what is wrong with bikes. If you take good care of your equipment, it will take care of you. I heard the story of a Native American man with a million miles on his pick-up. When ask how he said, "I ride it like a horse that I love; I take it easy, so when I come to a hill, I slow way down."
 
Any company I worked for would have instantly dismissed an operator for that recklessness.
AND their supervisor, who should know better than to let operators run equipment like that....
 
@username00101 : We understand what you want to do, but it entails using the bike wrong, and using it wrong in such a way as to likely damage it. In such a way that what you are doing is one of the first thing users are instructed not to do when it comes to keeping their bikes' assist motors alive.

You are going to have to give in on this and upshift, or let the bike suffer until something gives out, and hope that doesn't happen soon. Based on your comments in Post #50 you are not only bogging the motor, in so doing you are doing it badly enough that it can't make up for the gear choices. People think these 1500w motors are giant killers or something but the reality is they have limits a lot closer to Earth than people think until they experience them.
 
@username00101 : We understand what you want to do, but it entails using the bike wrong, and using it wrong in such a way as to likely damage it. In such a way that what you are doing is one of the first thing users are instructed not to do when it comes to keeping their bikes' assist motors alive.

You are going to have to give in on this and upshift, or let the bike suffer until something gives out, and hope that doesn't happen soon. Based on your comments in Post #50 you are not only bogging the motor, in so doing you are doing it badly enough that it can't make up for the gear choices. People think these 1500w motors are giant killers or something but the reality is they have limits a lot closer to Earth than people think until they experience them.
Sloth = $$$.
 
Just for fun I thought I would see where the hot spots are on my bike. I almost always ride in TURBO mode while commuting and I keep a medium/low cadence. It was about 0C this morning so nothing it getting too hot. The only real surprize was not seeing any heat transfer to the frame. I would have thought the aluminum would be great for transferring heat but most likely the motor is isolated for noise reasons. The battery only attaches at the top connector and the bottom latch. I thought the hub would be warmer.
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Thanks for the replies on this thread. So to summarize: For the Bafang M600 motor:
1) The only way to know if the motor is stressed is to look at the output watts.
2) Never go above the 600 watt capacity of the motor for more than a second or two
3) The peak 1200 watts is just an advertisement to sell the motor. not a wattage that should ever be used
4) Shift gears and get watts down below 600w
5) E bike motors aren't capable of running at their rated wattage for long rides. And definitely cannot run at their peak watts.
6) sustained top speed isn't going to be attainable for most people because the motors fail at that range unless there's very high cadence.
 
Thanks for the replies on this thread. So to summarize: For the Bafang M600 motor:
1) The only way to know if the motor is stressed is to look at the output watts.
2) Never go above the 600 watt capacity of the motor for more than a second or two
3) The peak 1200 watts is just an advertisement to sell the motor. not a wattage that should ever be used
4) Shift gears and get watts down below 600w
5) E bike motors aren't capable of running at their rated wattage for long rides. And definitely cannot run at their peak watts.
6) sustained top speed isn't going to be attainable for most people because the motors fail at that range unless there's very high cadence.
Re: #2 - I would say a minute or 2, and don't be a bit shy about doing that. It's there for you to use. Just keep in mind there's heat being built up WAY faster than it can be decipated. You have to use your head about it! Just let it cool between those wide open blasts.

My thought is that this heat build up is totally typical for not just the mid drives, but geared hubs as well. The motors are buried deep inside both designs. The direct drive (DD) hubs are a different story. Holding 15mph+ speeds for long distances is right down their alley as the motors sides dissipate the built up heat well enough. For those wanting to see how fast you can go on an e-bike, this is the design to go with for that reason.

Re:#4, a lot of this is about battery mileage too.
 
Thanks for the replies on this thread. So to summarize: For the Bafang M600 motor:
1) The only way to know if the motor is stressed is to look at the output watts.
2) Never go above the 600 watt capacity of the motor for more than a second or two
3) The peak 1200 watts is just an advertisement to sell the motor. not a wattage that should ever be used
4) Shift gears and get watts down below 600w
5) E bike motors aren't capable of running at their rated wattage for long rides. And definitely cannot run at their peak watts.
6) sustained top speed isn't going to be attainable for most people because the motors fail at that range unless there's very high cadence.
It's not a conspiracy... it's more that you are clueless on how these things are designed to be operated.
It's a Pedal Assist Motor
This means that you are to input human power and ride it as a traditional bike and the motor is to enhance your input.
What you want is called an electric moped/scooter.
 
Thanks for the replies on this thread. So to summarize: For the Bafang M600 motor:
1) The only way to know if the motor is stressed is to look at the output watts.
2) Never go above the 600 watt capacity of the motor for more than a second or two
3) The peak 1200 watts is just an advertisement to sell the motor. not a wattage that should ever be used
4) Shift gears and get watts down below 600w
5) E bike motors aren't capable of running at their rated wattage for long rides. And definitely cannot run at their peak watts.
6) sustained top speed isn't going to be attainable for most people because the motors fail at that range unless there's very high cadence.

That may be true for that Bafang motor but I haven't seen anything to suggest it is true for all bikes. I stand by my original statement that the better designed bikes today you can just ride them how you want to.
 
That may be true for that Bafang motor but I haven't seen anything to suggest it is true for all bikes. I stand by my original statement that the better designed bikes today you can just ride them how you want to.
On what bike can you continually reach and sustain top speed at low cadence only using your top gear and not stress the motor and drivetrain?
 
That may be true for that Bafang motor but I haven't seen anything to suggest it is true for all bikes. I stand by my original statement that the better designed bikes today you can just ride them how you want to.
In your limited experience. Sorry fella but your view is narrow. :rolleyes:
 
In your limited experience. Sorry fella but your view is narrow. :rolleyes:

Prove me wrong. I have a Bosch performance line level 3. Are people burning these up for pedaling too slow? Is this happening on any other major brand bikes? Specialized?
 
On what bike can you continually reach and sustain top speed at low cadence only using your top gear and not stress the motor and drivetrain?

what are you calling stress? using the bike more will wear it out sooner but that's a different issue than the OP worrying about burning out the motor.
Any e-bike is already stressing the drivetrain and wearing things out quicker. Which is why more bikes are going to belts and IGH.
 
Prove me wrong. I have a Bosch performance line level 3. Are people burning these up for pedaling too slow? Is this happening on any other major brand bikes? Specialized?
Where is this happening on any bike? Who rides like that? The op is clueless.
 
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