Riding Mid Drive on only highest gear

I'm rolling with a 46t chain ring but no bursty... Is that ok? 🙃
If you are smart about how you ride, and on what cog you have it on in the back, you can go bigger than that. For beginners its best to give them the generic advice: no more than 42T and keep the rpms up.

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in other words, ride it like a geared bike! Who dead starts in 7th gear of a 7 speed? Oh wait...

sure, you smart enough to manage. Sadly you’re not atypical. 52T with a BBS02B with your brilliance a ought to be fine. Its the dullards that are the problem.
I converted this bike and installed a 54. I would ride it flat out at full power but, because I was not lightly spinning like I should have, I killed the internal bearings. I wish I still had it. That chrome frame was so beautiful. It got tan wall gravel 42's a Brooks B17, and leather grips. I used silver engine paint on the motor before installation. This was before I knew how to hide wires or go thru frame. On the Nexus 8 I dropped the cog to 16-t. Sheldon Brown's gear calculator put top speed a 39+ at 90. Sorry bike. I miss you. But I loved you to death.
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Heat is what is hard on the controller and the motor. Draw the highest amps all the time and pretty soon the varnish on the windings in the motor will degrade or melt.
 

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or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others).

It's a BAFANG M600

I have not considered the temperature of the motor. Why isn't there a temperature gauge like in my car? Where do I buy such a gauge so I don't accidently melt my motor gears?
 
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Just spin, fast and lightly, pull back and up, and don't worry about it. Use the lowest gear that allows you to spin freely. Before you up shift, rev. An old Miada is more fun to drive than a $90,00 automatic SUV. Ride it like you love it. Let your bike rev before each shift.
 
or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others).

It's a BAFANG M600

I have not considered the temperature of the motor. Why isn't there a temperature gauge like in my car? Where do I buy such a gauge so I don't accidently melt my motor gears?
Ask those smarter than me but i believe the newest motors have high temperature cutouts. In the old days we added temp gauges.
 
or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others).

It's a BAFANG M600

I have not considered the temperature of the motor. Why isn't there a temperature gauge like in my car? Where do I buy such a gauge so I don't accidently melt my motor gears?
I do think it has a thermal sensor to protect the motor, but it's nothing I would gamble on.
The M600's have made a lot of friends as a pretty durable motor, even in off road applications where they are great for their smaller size and weight, while still making reasonably good power (more than enough).

Just keep in mind the earlier warning about heating it up over a long distances at a high power setting (like 600w).

If you want to go on a longer run, slow down, keep it under 400w and you should be fine.

Most, once they get a better feel for riding an e-bike, will figure out the bike will go plenty fast enough in PAS 1 or PAS 2, while pulling well under 400w. Battery charges will start lasting quite a bit longer as well....

The M-600 I have will pull nearly 1000w at full throttle, awesome for crossing a busy road, catching up with a riding buddy, or climbing a short hill. As mentioned though, that kind of power should never be used for more than a few seconds..... -Al
 
or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others).

It's a BAFANG M600

I have not considered the temperature of the motor. Why isn't there a temperature gauge like in my car? Where do I buy such a gauge so I don't accidently melt my motor gears?
Because they didn't plan on people using only one gear or ride them like scooters. They are made as electric assist bicycles, NOT electric powered bicycles
 
Because they didn't plan on people using only one gear or ride them like scooters. They are made as electric assist bicycles, NOT electric powered bicycles
They’re well aware of the screwballs out here and “melted gears” is more forum drivel than common event. Karl fat bike blog guy did a major disservice over playing the peanut buttered gears. Gosh dad it was only 2’ of snow…
 
So if my motor is 600 watts, and I go on a 20+ mile ride. The terrain being mostly flat. Is the strategy to keep the watts a certain % BELOW 600 at all times?

What's the purpose of giving a motor the ability to peak and sustain power that destroys the interior without any warning flashes on the computer for temp or wattage?
 
What's the purpose of giving a motor the ability to peak and sustain power that destroys the interior without any warning flashes on the computer for temp or wattage?

To make money off of naive people easily impressed by larger numbers.

In general bike motor power ratings are all lies, and probably only "useful" from a fire safety standpoint, if that. In practice motor power ratings are poor predictors of how well a bike will work in real world conditions. Less well-understood things like the precise behavior of the controller software and how it integrates cadence and torque sensing probably are better predictors.
 
So if my motor is 600 watts, and I go on a 20+ mile ride. The terrain being mostly flat. Is the strategy to keep the watts a certain % BELOW 600 at all times?

What's the purpose of giving a motor the ability to peak and sustain power that destroys the interior without any warning flashes on the computer for temp or wattage?
If your motor is rated for 600W that level, 600W, will not be a problem. What I saw on a 350W-rated mid-drive was the motor pulling nearly twice the rated wattage when the motor was lugged with a 52T chainring. In general, any motor pushed to its PEAK and kept at a sustained peak will suffer.
 
So if my motor is 600 watts, and I go on a 20+ mile ride. The terrain being mostly flat. Is the strategy to keep the watts a certain % BELOW 600 at all times?
Well, it's under warranty right? You know my thoughts here, but it's just an opinion.

What's the purpose of giving a motor the ability to peak and sustain power that destroys the interior without any warning flashes on the computer for temp or wattage?
Bike instrumentation is still pretty minimalist as compared to other forms of transportation. For Pete's sake, many people will still give you a funny look when the word e-bike comes from your mouth.....
 
Would you redline a car and keep it there? Peek is just that, for a burst.
 
No, I've not melted one down. But, I never ride in high gear all the time either. Do you?

Mostly, yes. Most of my miles are commuting a straight road with very minor hills. Unless I want the extra exercise I usually ride in Bosch TURBO mode between 20 and 25 MPH and the gear at or near the highest (Enviolo gear hub is continuously variable so I don't know if it always at the extreme unless I am pushing it downhill)
 
Would you redline a car and keep it there? Peek is just that, for a burst.

THe OP was about low RPM, not high RPM which in a ICE has different problems than overheating.

Who says peak is just for a burst?

Class 1/3 mid drives are designed to provide assistance. Properly designed they shouldn't be able to heat up enough to damage themselves and or they have over heat sensors to reduce power if needed.
 
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