Reention newly upgrade 48V 25Ah&36V 30Ah (505L) interchangeable for eBikes Surface 604,NCM,Rize,Magnum,Aventon

[Jenny Mao]

Alright, thank you for the clarification! I’m not sure whether you have any say in this at all, but I’m sure it would be beneficial to all involved to make something of that sort, since i suspect the reason that some manufacturers modify the control board to include the power function is at least in part because there is no key power switch available for these batteries.

Thanks again, it was a pleasure to talk to you!

Agree~,will look into the modified control board and update here when available.

 

[IHascats01]

Agree~,will look into the modified control board and update here when available.

Yeah thank you very much! I hope that a keyed power switch built into the plastic frame bolted onto the bike where the lock is now is possible at some point!

 

[tomjasz]

Yeah thank you very much! I hope that a keyed power switch built into the plastic frame bolted onto the bike where the lock is now is possible at some point!

Why? Why add complexity? you can always add a keyed switch. I don’t get the need. I’ve had a dozen batteries. My lat from Jenny has an external on off switch,but my displays are on off switches as well. Much adieu about nothing IMO.

 

[Jenny Mao]

I think it is easy to add a keyed switch on the PVC battery pack. For the Dorado, it is not harmonious to add an external switch and no holes for the BMS switch wire going out. Hope Reention can add a seperared power switch when they develop the new Dorado version.

 

[elecbikenoob]

I've tested the 25ah battery on 3 rides.

My bike is a 2019 rear geared hub motor Spark bike now called Rize.

Wanted to see how it handled battery drain so i increased the amps to 19 from stock 15, and maxed top speed setting to 41kmh.
Multiple high speed max throttle 39-40kmh runs and high levels of assist (i use 1-9 power settings but used 6-9 for testing)
After 43kms ride Bat voltage was 49.5v

Second ride used stock 15amp setting but kept max speed. Again high assist levels and full throttle runs 39-40kmh.
After 40kms bat 47v . Bat leds 2 bars

Final ride max speed throttle achievable down to 29-30kmh. Bat leds to 1bar
Didnt ride with as high pas assist bat was down to 1 bar so didnt want to go further in case i ran out of juice.
After 32kms bat was 43.8v

Total distance of 115kms

Glad i didnt get the lesser 21ah bat.

I'm not going test the battery any lower. I know for sure id be able to get way more distance if i didnt use the throttle so much and kept amps at 15.

With stock bat 13ah furthest ive gone is 82kms but thats with me helping out a lot. I just dont want to do that anymore.

I would definitely buy again and recommend this bat from Jenny/aijiu

 

[IHascats01]

Why? Why add complexity? you can always add a keyed switch. I don’t get the need. I’ve had a dozen batteries. My lat from Jenny has an external on off switch,but my displays are on off switches as well. Much adieu about nothing IMO.

Well for one, security… if your ebike has only a button power switch, then anyone could turn it on and ride it away quickly(unless you had a lock, but still), or intentionally waste battery, but if it had a key switch, someone would not be able to turn it on without the key, and even if it was unlocked it would be harder to steal or mess with. And adding an external key switch is, of course an option, but then you’d need to carry another key, which could be a hassle. Also, it would reduce the need for custom control boards to turn the battery on and off, helping to standardize parts!

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Well for one, security… if your ebike has only a button power switch, then anyone could turn it on and ride it away quickly(unless you had a lock, but still), or intentionally waste battery, but if it had a key switch, someone would not be able to turn it on without the key, and even if it was unlocked it would be harder to steal or mess with. And adding an external key switch is, of course an option, but then you’d need to carry another key, which could be a hassle. Also, it would reduce the need for custom control boards to turn the battery on and off, helping to standardize parts!

This is exactly what I did. I installed a keyed ignition switch between my controller and the display. My worry was that someone would turn the bike on and run the throttle while my bike is locked to a post. This eases my mind and is not an inconvenience to me.

 

[tomjasz]

Well for one, security… if your ebike has only a button power switch, then anyone could turn it on and ride it away quickly(unless you had a lock, but still), or intentionally waste battery, but if it had a key switch, someone would not be able to turn it on without the key, and even if it was unlocked it would be harder to steal or mess with. And adding an external key switch is, of course an option, but then you’d need to carry another key, which could be a hassle. Also, it would reduce the need for custom control boards to turn the battery on and off, helping to standardize parts!

I’m happy to report that those are not issues for me. I can’t help but think if I had those needs it would be more paranoia than reality based. Standardization has never happened in any road vehicle. Battery bleed down from being turned on is minimal.

I respectfully suggest a key switch is not an anti theft device.

 

[IHascats01]

I’m happy to report that those are not issues for me. I can’t help but think if I had those needs it would be more paranoia than reality based. Standardization has never happened in any road vehicle. Battery bleed down from being turned on is minimal.

I respectfully suggest a key switch is not an anti theft device.

OBDII? Light bulbs? Bike tire sizes? There are many examples of standardization in vehicles

 

[tomjasz]

OBDII? Light bulbs? Bike tire sizes? There are many examples of standardization in vehicles

50 different bulbs across platforms, 20 if not more bike tire sizes, model specific isn’t what I’d call standardized.
We’ve owned 15 Toyota vehicles, all had different tire sizes, standardized? I’m not trying to belittle the idea but nearly a decade of building and eBike customer support, a key switch isn’t an often requested product. The larger high end ebike makers are intentionally making batteries proprietary. I’m afraid they’ll not listen to you and I.
I share the frustration. But money rulz.

 

[IHascats01]

Well i don’t necessarily mean everything has to be the same, just that if something is intended to work with something else, it should work with that other thing, like if you buy a 26in rim, you should expect that a 26in tire would work with it within reason

 

[ProphetZarquon]

Oh geez, don't go Valkyrie. Compared to an "Old Wing" that Valky is a top heavy freight train.

"Um, wut?!"
Not to derail the topic any further here, but I believe the naked Valkyrie has a lower center of gravity (& slacker fork angle) than the Goldwing...

Only good reason it might feel top-heavy, is a lower saddle height, with the feet farther forward; meaning less control.

Extend the seat up & back (where I need it) & it shouldn't feel "top heavy" at all!

I've spent just a little time on a '75 GL1000 & an '02 Valk... While the naked wing was a simple beauty, the Valkyrie kinda blows it away, in more ways than one. If I ever find one without an engine...

 

[AHicks]

"Um, wut?!"
Not to derail the topic any further here, but I believe the naked Valkyrie has a lower center of gravity (& slacker fork angle) than the Goldwing...


Only good reason it might feel top-heavy, is a lower saddle height, with the feet farther forward; meaning less control.

Extend the seat up & back (where I need it) & it shouldn't feel "top heavy" at all!

I've spent just a little time on a '75 GL1000 & an '02 Valk... While the naked wing was a simple beauty, the Valkyrie kinda blows it away, in more ways than one. If I ever find one without an engine...

You have a PM, in consideration of the fact we're so far off topic here.
BTW, I thought the '75's had spoked wheels? -Al

 

[Jenny Mao]

I've tested the 25ah battery on 3 rides.

My bike is a 2019 rear geared hub motor Spark bike now called Rize.

Wanted to see how it handled battery drain so i increased the amps to 19 from stock 15, and maxed top speed setting to 41kmh.
Multiple high speed max throttle 39-40kmh runs and high levels of assist (i use 1-9 power settings but used 6-9 for testing)
After 43kms ride Bat voltage was 49.5v

Second ride used stock 15amp setting but kept max speed. Again high assist levels and full throttle runs 39-40kmh.
After 40kms bat 47v . Bat leds 2 bars

Final ride max speed throttle achievable down to 29-30kmh. Bat leds to 1bar
Didnt ride with as high pas assist bat was down to 1 bar so didnt want to go further in case i ran out of juice.
After 32kms bat was 43.8v

Total distance of 115kms

Glad i didnt get the lesser 21ah bat.

I'm not going test the battery any lower. I know for sure id be able to get way more distance if i didnt use the throttle so much and kept amps at 15.

With stock bat 13ah furthest ive gone is 82kms but thats with me helping out a lot. I just dont want to do that anymore.

I would definitely buy again and recommend this bat from Jenny/aijiu

Thanks Pat for sharing the real testing reviews. The BMS is 30A, so 20amp or less continuous discharging current is definitely no problem.
And I believe 15amp is better for prolonging battery life.

 

[Eucrider]

I've tested the 25ah battery on 3 rides.

My bike is a 2019 rear geared hub motor Spark bike now called Rize.

Wanted to see how it handled battery drain so i increased the amps to 19 from stock 15, and maxed top speed setting to 41kmh.
Multiple high speed max throttle 39-40kmh runs and high levels of assist (i use 1-9 power settings but used 6-9 for testing)
After 43kms ride Bat voltage was 49.5v

Second ride used stock 15amp setting but kept max speed. Again high assist levels and full throttle runs 39-40kmh.
After 40kms bat 47v . Bat leds 2 bars

Final ride max speed throttle achievable down to 29-30kmh. Bat leds to 1bar
Didnt ride with as high pas assist bat was down to 1 bar so didnt want to go further in case i ran out of juice.
After 32kms bat was 43.8v

Total distance of 115kms

Glad i didnt get the lesser 21ah bat.

I'm not going test the battery any lower. I know for sure id be able to get way more distance if i didnt use the throttle so much and kept amps at 15.

With stock bat 13ah furthest ive gone is 82kms but thats with me helping out a lot. I just dont want to do that anymore.

I would definitely buy again and recommend this bat from Jenny/aijiu

Thx for these results I find then very interesting, I've also ordered the 25ah from @Jenny Mao my bike has a smaller controller max 19amps so should be good for extended battery life ,I was thinking about upgrading the controller but tbh it does fine so I'll leave it for now, I'm more interested in range ,
My bike is the Shengmilo mx03 there's few debates about what motor is used and the smaller controller but tbh it pulls well and gives good range (40-50 miles in pas2/3) if I do hilly runs or lazy rides using pas4/5 and throttle I get about 25-30 miles , I'll be doing updates on the milage the 25ah battery gets me over the same conditions, one test I haven't done yet is setting my speed limit to say 17 mph (pas2 does 18mph) so should be a good cut off criuse speed on the flats and don't notice to much fatigue on my legs,
Looking for another dorado style battery bike for the girlfriend maybe a step through so then we can share batteries etc, I'm in UK so looking for the right bike if there's any suggestions?
Looking forward to testing the battery and sharing information and @Jenny Mao has been very helpful and informative thanks

 

[Jenny Mao]

NCM Milano uses the same Dorado 18inch battery. @Eucrider

NCM Milano Trekking E-Bike, City-Bike, 250W, 48V 13Ah 624Wh Battery

NCM Milano Trekking E-Bike, City-Bike, 250W, 48V 13Ah 624Wh Battery an NCM battery kit for the NCM London Ebike. Buy yours now!

www.leoncycle.co.uk

 

[ovt]

Hi. I would like to know if it can works a 52v battey to my ebike. Now i have a Reention Dorado ID-Max 48v 21Ah battery, das-kit L6 display, CT5-i5 controller. My question is: if the display has only the 48v option and I install a 52v battery, will that battery automatically run on 52v even if the display has a maximum of 48v option, or the battery will run on 48v?

 

[tomjasz]

most likely

Some firmware may limit to 60V. Making a 52V (58.8) to close for some firmware.

display, it is usually fine

Again, many displays DID NOT correctly show the voltage of a 52V battery.

Please confirm with product manuals, not guesswork.

 

[tomjasz]

Typical. Why respond if you don't know?

 

[ovt]

Thank's for the answers guys. Yeah, the L6 display has only two voltage options in the menu: 36 and 48v. That's why I'm curious if the 52v battery will work at 52v even if I don't have the option in the meny, or will run automatically at 48v. Maybe it's someone who tested a 52v battery with das kit display to know for sure this thing, not to spend money in vain and that 52v battery to work at 48v.