Hey @Sic Puppy! Thanks so much for this write-up. I'm in a similar boat as you. I own a M2S 750 Kush (that I love) with probably close to 3k miles on it. The battery still works, but the range reduction makes me have to be very conservative on my favorite Saturday morning route, so I'm looking to upgrade the stock 48V 16AH battery. I had been trying to find specs as to whether the speed controller would handle the 52V battery, but seems like this isn't an issue for you. Jenny currently has a 52V 20AH or a 48V 25AH for this application and she suggests the 48V to have superior range... which sounds accurate by the math. Did you notice a significant power/performance difference bumping the Kush up to 52V? I am willing to sacrifice a small bit of range for performance, just wondering what your experience was on that end. Thanks again!
UPDATE on Aug 5, 2023 [#14][M2S] .. I FINALLY killed my ebike battery.. new info: times 3.. PickleBall info, too.
- Thread starter Sic Puppy
- Start date
tomjasz
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Minnesnowta
My former shop sold hundreds of batteries. 52V accounted for 80% of battery sales. Over the last 8 years, I've personally owned several 52V batteries including 2 large 52V triangle packs. I've also had 5 or 6 48V packs. 52V gave me a mile or two per hour increase until the pack reached a 48V level of 54.6. So from 58.8 to 54.6 the 52V was faster.
My last Jenny battery is a 48V 20Ah I opted for the increase in mileage. IMO a better choice. I'm one that thinks the best performance and system longevity comes from the design as built and specified by the OEM. Now all sorts of fellas will tell us there's no problem with 52V and maybe there isn't. Me? I'll leave the experiments to those willing to take the risk. I don't know how the M620 controller is set up, but some Bafang mids were designed around a 60V component limit. 58.8 is pushing closer to that limitation. Another potential issue is the firmware. Some BBSxx versions' firmware threw error codes with 52V batteries and displays no longer accurately reported voltage.
Bottom line for me, 54.6V gave me more speed than I needed and I find mileage a more useful feature.
My last Jenny battery is a 48V 20Ah I opted for the increase in mileage. IMO a better choice. I'm one that thinks the best performance and system longevity comes from the design as built and specified by the OEM. Now all sorts of fellas will tell us there's no problem with 52V and maybe there isn't. Me? I'll leave the experiments to those willing to take the risk. I don't know how the M620 controller is set up, but some Bafang mids were designed around a 60V component limit. 58.8 is pushing closer to that limitation. Another potential issue is the firmware. Some BBSxx versions' firmware threw error codes with 52V batteries and displays no longer accurately reported voltage.
Bottom line for me, 54.6V gave me more speed than I needed and I find mileage a more useful feature.
Thanks @tomjasz. Exactly what I was looking for. I'd almost prefer more torque to top end in performance. 30 is really fast enough except when I'm trail riding with my buddies on fully tricked out Segways, but nothing I can do to this bike to hang with that. At least I'm still getting some excersize! haha! 48V it is. Appreciate the feedback.
Hi,
First of all, I want to thank tomjasz for his input. He saved me a lot of typing time in responding to your questions.
It sounds like your current riding distances are pretty much the norm for your situation. I'm guesstimating that, assuming mostly flat/level terrain, 30 miles is your typical maximum range.
It's just that you are starting to get “range/distance anxiety” because your battery, at 3,000+ miles of usage, is not what it was at mile 1. That being the case, by all means go with the 48v/25ah battery. With its extra “9 gallons of fuel” compared to your original 48v16ah M2S battery, you should never have a problem. If, down the road, you decide to do longer rides and want the piece-of-mind of that extra battery also being available, then you are good to go. I have been doing exactly that for my 50 milers since mid-2018 (2 batteries- one on the bike and one in my computer laptop backpack carrier.)
By the way, if you do use my transporting method (backpack carrier) begin your ride with the 25ah'er and carry the MUCH lighter 16ah'er in the backpack. That way, the time/distance having to cope with the heavier big fat battery astride your back area will be greatly reduced.
Also, when removing the 25'er from the ebike frame, unlock the battery at the top, only remove it about 1 inch, and then go down to the battery bottom side, grasp it, and remove the top and the bottom simultaneously. Otherwise, due to the 25'ers boxy shape, you can inadvertently damage the bottom battery retainer, either at the battery casing OR at the frame mount location.
Be sure to check with Jenny as to the maximum amp's allowed to re-charge the 25'er that you are purchasing. Your KUSH charger, like my two M2S chargers, uses a 5amp unit on the 48v/16ah battery. If the 25'er won't handle that many amps, you need to also buy an acceptable charger for the 25'er. And, if that does prove to be the case, use a method of visual recognition to differentiate the 2 batteries and chargers. I use color-coded duct tape on my 52v chargers at the power connector, at the charger-to-battery connector, and at the batterys input location to remind me which (48v or 52v) is which. At my age (72), absentmindedness is pretty much a given, so every little “aid” is good. You can do the same thing as an “amp” aid. Just sayin'.
When I was checking with Jenny about my potential battery purchase, me gave me the same options as she did you (48v/25ah or 52v/20ah). I chose the 52v unit because, at $600 compared to $700, I figured on spending that $100 savings on an additional multi-amp battery charger when the 52v/3amp charger that came with the 2021 ArielRider X52 beast finally went titz up. Naturally, that being the case, the 52v/3amp'er just continues to sing along as its daily re-charges occur. But, being a plastic outer casing.. Someday..
If, down the road, you do decide to delve into the world of the 52v powered ebike, just think of that 48v/25amp battery as a 52v battery with a maximum allowable charge of 93% (52v at 58.8 versus your 48v at 54.6). Nothing wrong with that.
In your post you mentioned “torque as opposed to and/or top speed.”
With a fat tire 26" wheel bike such as the KUSH, bottom end gitty-up go is not gonna be its strong point. However, if you are under way and press the throttle, or increase the pedal assist (PAS), that dang bike (remember that I own 2 of the M2S ebeasties) will flat out git down the road, up to 28+mph. By the way, on my multi-mile ebike rides, out of a 50 mile duration, I probably only use the 28mph top speed option for a total of 100 yards-unless its a downhill section. Speed is fun, but not the main reason I ride these e-beasts.
Due to the local inclement weather in my area from late December thru early February, I hadn't ridden either M2S beast at all because they are set up with summer “city” tires (minimal tread). However, this past 7 days, I have finally let the 2021 ArielRider X52 sit idle and have ridden the 2019 R750 four days (at 50 miles per ride) and the 2018 KUSH the past 3 days (at 50 miles per ride). Both bikes still have plenty of gitty-up go. I usually start a ride using a 48v/20ah battery. At the 25 mile point, or the turn around location if an out-and-back, I stop and switch out batteries for the 52v/20ah battery. That way, neither battery will be overly abused. As for a notable performance difference: yes, it is noticeable (but only slightly) but, it is also short-lived. Once that 58.8voltage decreases to 54.6 volts, you have a “48volt” battery.
By the way, the bulletproof 2018 KUSH now has 21,150 miles.
The bulletproof 2019 R750 has 14,600 miles.
The 2012 X52 has 11,600 miles.
In other words, I am definitely getting my $$$ worth out of those ebikes AND their various batteries. Too dang much fun.
Since this thread is getting a heck of a lot of “views (3,000+) in such a short period of time, I am gonna go ahead and “link” the following EBR M2S posting of mine. It also deals with some good/pertinent “battery” stuff:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...31-and-mile-13-150-plus-a-battery-item.47484/
Thanks for all the views and for the extra input from fellow viewers/posters.
First of all, I want to thank tomjasz for his input. He saved me a lot of typing time in responding to your questions.
It sounds like your current riding distances are pretty much the norm for your situation. I'm guesstimating that, assuming mostly flat/level terrain, 30 miles is your typical maximum range.
It's just that you are starting to get “range/distance anxiety” because your battery, at 3,000+ miles of usage, is not what it was at mile 1. That being the case, by all means go with the 48v/25ah battery. With its extra “9 gallons of fuel” compared to your original 48v16ah M2S battery, you should never have a problem. If, down the road, you decide to do longer rides and want the piece-of-mind of that extra battery also being available, then you are good to go. I have been doing exactly that for my 50 milers since mid-2018 (2 batteries- one on the bike and one in my computer laptop backpack carrier.)
By the way, if you do use my transporting method (backpack carrier) begin your ride with the 25ah'er and carry the MUCH lighter 16ah'er in the backpack. That way, the time/distance having to cope with the heavier big fat battery astride your back area will be greatly reduced.
Also, when removing the 25'er from the ebike frame, unlock the battery at the top, only remove it about 1 inch, and then go down to the battery bottom side, grasp it, and remove the top and the bottom simultaneously. Otherwise, due to the 25'ers boxy shape, you can inadvertently damage the bottom battery retainer, either at the battery casing OR at the frame mount location.
Be sure to check with Jenny as to the maximum amp's allowed to re-charge the 25'er that you are purchasing. Your KUSH charger, like my two M2S chargers, uses a 5amp unit on the 48v/16ah battery. If the 25'er won't handle that many amps, you need to also buy an acceptable charger for the 25'er. And, if that does prove to be the case, use a method of visual recognition to differentiate the 2 batteries and chargers. I use color-coded duct tape on my 52v chargers at the power connector, at the charger-to-battery connector, and at the batterys input location to remind me which (48v or 52v) is which. At my age (72), absentmindedness is pretty much a given, so every little “aid” is good. You can do the same thing as an “amp” aid. Just sayin'.
When I was checking with Jenny about my potential battery purchase, me gave me the same options as she did you (48v/25ah or 52v/20ah). I chose the 52v unit because, at $600 compared to $700, I figured on spending that $100 savings on an additional multi-amp battery charger when the 52v/3amp charger that came with the 2021 ArielRider X52 beast finally went titz up. Naturally, that being the case, the 52v/3amp'er just continues to sing along as its daily re-charges occur. But, being a plastic outer casing.. Someday..
If, down the road, you do decide to delve into the world of the 52v powered ebike, just think of that 48v/25amp battery as a 52v battery with a maximum allowable charge of 93% (52v at 58.8 versus your 48v at 54.6). Nothing wrong with that.
In your post you mentioned “torque as opposed to and/or top speed.”
With a fat tire 26" wheel bike such as the KUSH, bottom end gitty-up go is not gonna be its strong point. However, if you are under way and press the throttle, or increase the pedal assist (PAS), that dang bike (remember that I own 2 of the M2S ebeasties) will flat out git down the road, up to 28+mph. By the way, on my multi-mile ebike rides, out of a 50 mile duration, I probably only use the 28mph top speed option for a total of 100 yards-unless its a downhill section. Speed is fun, but not the main reason I ride these e-beasts.
Due to the local inclement weather in my area from late December thru early February, I hadn't ridden either M2S beast at all because they are set up with summer “city” tires (minimal tread). However, this past 7 days, I have finally let the 2021 ArielRider X52 sit idle and have ridden the 2019 R750 four days (at 50 miles per ride) and the 2018 KUSH the past 3 days (at 50 miles per ride). Both bikes still have plenty of gitty-up go. I usually start a ride using a 48v/20ah battery. At the 25 mile point, or the turn around location if an out-and-back, I stop and switch out batteries for the 52v/20ah battery. That way, neither battery will be overly abused. As for a notable performance difference: yes, it is noticeable (but only slightly) but, it is also short-lived. Once that 58.8voltage decreases to 54.6 volts, you have a “48volt” battery.
By the way, the bulletproof 2018 KUSH now has 21,150 miles.
The bulletproof 2019 R750 has 14,600 miles.
The 2012 X52 has 11,600 miles.
In other words, I am definitely getting my $$$ worth out of those ebikes AND their various batteries. Too dang much fun.
Since this thread is getting a heck of a lot of “views (3,000+) in such a short period of time, I am gonna go ahead and “link” the following EBR M2S posting of mine. It also deals with some good/pertinent “battery” stuff:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...31-and-mile-13-150-plus-a-battery-item.47484/
Thanks for all the views and for the extra input from fellow viewers/posters.
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Thanks for all those tips @Sic Puppy. I did opt for the 4A charger as per Jenny's recommendations, and I'll make sure to color code like you did. Great idea. I'm usually cruising on PAS @ 6 averaging 22-23mph once in a while bumping up to PAS 7 to push through traffic, and I usually see 27-30 mile range. Now I have to drop to PAS 4 on the bridges to keep my range up to make it home. I did upgrade the crank/front sprocket kit with a few more teeth that allows me to get up to about 30mph for a little while anyway. At least I don't feel like I'm on a hamster wheel at 27, which was my main concern. I can cook down these huge bridges we have into the 34-35 range which is a blast. Been super impressed with the M2S machine so far. Only issue I've had was a really bad time with tires and flats for a while even with armor inserts. Just replaced the tires again with a set of INNOVAs from FatTireHouseLa.com. Having waaay better luck with those so far. Thanks again for the input!
Update... I received the 48V 25Ah version from Jenny and took my first ride with it this morning for my M2S Kush 750. The first thing I noticed is this battery has to be about 5 pounds+ heavier than the 16Ah it came with. I knew it would be heavier, but it's substantial. I did my normal 28ish mile route averaging about 20-23mph on PAS 6 most of the time, and made it about 19 miles before the battery even dropped one level. The second level dropped only about 5 miles later. I did have a mild tailwind on the way out, then the wind picked up drastically on the way back, and I have to cross 5 large bridges over waterways. Headwinds + bridges = fast battery drain. The only issue really was a few times the motor failed to engage. Had to stop pedaling for a few seconds, then it would pick back up. Not ideal merging into traffic, but not the biggest deal. Not sure what may have caused that. All in all, I made my trip with barely getting to the 3 out of 5 battery level where before I had to drop to PAS 4 on bridges just to make sure I made it home. Going to have to find a longer route to push the range on this sucker.
In regards to my aforementioned "overnight charging" thought : I just came across this ArielRder YouTube video
"c). I selected the 52v/20ah battery with the DC2.1mm connector, and without charger.
Jenny told me that a flat blade in-line fuse (usually 30 or 40amp) was not included on this size because of space constraints.. Not too happy about that, but not a deal breaker, either."
Hi all,
I purchased the above-referenced 52v/20ah battery from Jenny Mao. It arrived on Oct 7, 2022 (almost 10 months ago). It has performed flawlessly. However, on July 18, 2023 (9 days ago) I had yet another "battery" issue. As a result of that situation, I decided on a fluke, to open the above-mentioned JM battery, too.
Anyway, today (July 27th) I discovered that my Jenny Mao battery does indeed contain an in-line flat blade 10amp mini fuse after all. In the ebike battery world, items like this fact are a real godsend-- a 5-cent item that can/will protect a $500+ battery. Too frigging cool. So, that being the case, I am posting this particular bit of info now as a "stand alone".
I feel more comfortable just adding to this thread than going ahead and initiating a totally new thread on basically the same subject(s)-- plus, this thread already has 5,000+ "views".
As a result of that July 18, 2023 incident, I intend to post an updated amendment to this particular thread, probably during the 1st week of August (the Dog Dayz of summer, ya know). You will know because, on this threads' title, I'll put "UPDATE" and will also otherwise modify/extend the title's wording. I must also advise you viewers that the addendum will probably be longwinded, but pertinent.
Also in early August, I will be posting a separate thread concerning the 15,000+ mile mark on my 2019 M2S(brand) F750(model) BAFANG 750w rear hub ebike and also another separate thread for the 15,000+ mile mark on my 2021 ArielRider(brand) X52(model) 1,000w rear hub ebike mini-beast. Just goes to show you that it's always gonna be something..
That's all for now.
Jenny told me that a flat blade in-line fuse (usually 30 or 40amp) was not included on this size because of space constraints.. Not too happy about that, but not a deal breaker, either."
Hi all,
I purchased the above-referenced 52v/20ah battery from Jenny Mao. It arrived on Oct 7, 2022 (almost 10 months ago). It has performed flawlessly. However, on July 18, 2023 (9 days ago) I had yet another "battery" issue. As a result of that situation, I decided on a fluke, to open the above-mentioned JM battery, too.
Anyway, today (July 27th) I discovered that my Jenny Mao battery does indeed contain an in-line flat blade 10amp mini fuse after all. In the ebike battery world, items like this fact are a real godsend-- a 5-cent item that can/will protect a $500+ battery. Too frigging cool. So, that being the case, I am posting this particular bit of info now as a "stand alone".
I feel more comfortable just adding to this thread than going ahead and initiating a totally new thread on basically the same subject(s)-- plus, this thread already has 5,000+ "views".
As a result of that July 18, 2023 incident, I intend to post an updated amendment to this particular thread, probably during the 1st week of August (the Dog Dayz of summer, ya know). You will know because, on this threads' title, I'll put "UPDATE" and will also otherwise modify/extend the title's wording. I must also advise you viewers that the addendum will probably be longwinded, but pertinent.
Also in early August, I will be posting a separate thread concerning the 15,000+ mile mark on my 2019 M2S(brand) F750(model) BAFANG 750w rear hub ebike and also another separate thread for the 15,000+ mile mark on my 2021 ArielRider(brand) X52(model) 1,000w rear hub ebike mini-beast. Just goes to show you that it's always gonna be something..
That's all for now.
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scrambler
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Bay Area, CA
Humm on the video indeed...
Normally the balancing is done by the battery BMS and not the charger, and the balancing will continue after the charger is disconnected, so there is no reason for extended charger connection....
UPDATE .
[ This UPDATE was posted on Aug 5, 2023. The UpDated portion will be identified by that word in large bold letters as you scroll down past the original 28 postings, the last of which was on page 2 by “scrambler”, on July 27th.
You might want to grab a 6-pack,(or two) because, as usual, this is going to be a very long posting. Maybe I have allowed info to get a little out of hand, but I'm on a roll, PLUS I just do not want to have to post numerous threads. I see that I am at "page 13" right now and I still have a few items to throw your way.
You know those YouTubers who hop on their ebike and just go for a video'd 30 minute ride, all the while babbling on about absolutely zip/nil/nada for the duration?? Well, you may consider me to be their BrotherFromAnotherMother OR, maybe, just maybe, you will gleen a few particles of pertinent, worthwhile “stuff” as a result of these written, as opposed to filmed, ramblings. Remember that I'm doing all the work. All you have to do is critique my stuff, as needed.
The “pickleball” info, while presumably being out-of-place in an ebike forum, is actually not, as you will discover (a really tough lesson learned on my part). I placed it at the very end because the Administrator may ask me to delete it. No problemo]
Here goes for the actual update:
UPDATE: On July 18, 2023, I had yet another trusty ebike battery finally go caa-caa doo-doo.
This particular Reention Dorado-case unit was a 48v/21ah (i.e.“21 gallon”) item that had a “born on” date (that's when it was delivered to my front door) of July 25,2021 (25 months ago). I had purchased it as a stand-alone item from a dubious (in hindsight) stateside website-- but NOT an ebike company.
You must remember that I usually try to do a daily 50+ mile ebike ride. The year 2022 saw me doing a total of 12,731 ebike miles.. In order to accomplish those kind of miles, I either use two batteries (for the M2S(brand) ebike(s), or three batteries (when using the 2021 ArielRider (brand) X52 mini-beast battery hog ebike.
So, on this July 18, 2023 day-of-ride, using the AR X52, I load up two 52v batteries (a 20ah(20 gallon) and an 18ah(18 gallon) ) into my USPS mailbox seat/storage unit. They will be used as swap-out batteries at mile 15 and at mile 35. My initial 15 miles will be handled by the 48v/21ah(21 gallon) battery. I install this battery, turn on the ebike, watch as the screen appears for about 3 seconds, and then it shuts off. I press the end cap button. Nothing. No four green lights.. no red lights. ShitFire.
However, all is not lost because also located on the end cap is this note “45A”, meaning that a 45amp flat blade in-line fuse is installed on this battery. So, no problemo. I grab my 48v/14.5ah(14.5 gallon) battery, install it, and go do my most excellent ride. Though that battery is 6.5ah(6.5 gallons less than the 21ah(21 gal) “bad” battery, it is still capable of going for 15 miles in the X52 piggy.
The next day, I decide to pull the end cap and replace the blown 45amp fuse. I mean, what else COULD it be? I treat my ebike batteries like royalty, so dissention in the ranks is just not possible. BUT NNOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!! the damn fuse is fine and dandy. My battery had apparently committed Larry-Mary (hairy-carry). Now it was definitely ShitFire and DoodleFartz.
Whenever I have a battery “malfunction”, if it's not a blown fuse thing, then that battery goes into the “won't pile”-- kinda like the “wood pile,” except that I won't ever be using this damn battery ever again. By the way, my pile currently has 6 logs total. I know some viewers will say to get the defective product re-built, but that costs mucho$$$, too. I figure that I definitely get the “mileage” out of the batteries I buy. If they can last for 2+ years at my pace, then I should be (and am) satisfied with that factor.
Oh well, I can't really complain because during its 25 month lifetime, it was probably the most used battery in my entire gangsta posse of same. But that also meant that I now only had THREE ebike batteries in my arsenal:
My two M2s(brand) fat tire ebikes, AND my AR X52, are (and have been since I bought the AR X52) using a combination of 48v and 52v batteries. And believe me when I tell you that, though a 48v battery is the original equipment on the two M2S ebikes and they perform awesomely using that battery, they absolutely LOVE the 52v version.
Plus, due to having viewed the recent YouTube postings by Jack Cecil concerning his own 2021 AR X52, I have been very interested in the 60v ebike battery for use on the AR X52. If the 60v does for the original 52v ebike what the 52v does for the original 48v M2S ebikes, then I would be a mighty crappy hamper (happy camper).
I'm not like some of those YT'ers who go GonzoCrazyAzzAllOut for the duration of every ebike ride. Instead, I putt along at 15-20mph while trying to get maximum return on my batteries per ride. I'm kind of like the 72 year old (my age) who drives a 2023 Corvette. I may not stomp the gas pedal on a constant basis, but it sure is nice to know that, should I desire to, the power will spew forth in a very awesome manner. Don't get me wrong, because I do occasionally go AllOut for a very short distance just to impress the vehicle drivers stuck in their daily traffic gridlock. AND I do it on uncluttered sidewalks- NEVER on street “bike lanes”, or mixed in with car traffic.
So, the newest adventure begins.
From my prior battery-related emails with Jenny Mao, I knew that her company was not yet producing 60v Reention Dorado-cased ebike batteries. However, I was aware of a certain United States-based ebike company who had wholeheartedly embracing the latest 60v mindset. Their 60v/20ah(gallon) battery sells for $800. That's kind of expense, but I'd prefer giving them my business instead of an AliXpress(website) ghost entity. However, based on their website photos, I couldn't tell what type of charger-to-battery connection their unit used. So, I zipped off an email.
I quickly got a response. Their connector is indeed the “DC2.1mm” item as used on all of my batteries. AND they have their first generation 60v/20ah(gallon) batteries on sale for $550.00 (while supplies last). Or $600 with the 3amp charger. Hmm. I had paid $600 in July 2022 to Jenny Mao for the 52v/20ah(gallon) battery. What to do, what to do? I asked if the charger was in a plastic housing or in an aluminum housing with built-in fan (both of my awesome M2S ebikes came with a 48v/5amp aluminum housing with built-in cooling fan, so I was kind of spoiled by those two chargers). “Plastic housing and no fan” was the reply. Sooooo...
After sleeping on it, I decided to buy only the battery at $550.. delivered. So, I placed the order.
I then went internet shopping for a 60v charger that had an aluminum case, cooling fan, and the 80%/90%/100% and 1amp/2amp/3amp/4amp/5amp option that my two LUNA 48v chargers and my 52v Eco-Cycles charger had. 52V? Yep(LUNA).. 72V? Yep (LUNA).. But, finding a 60v unit -- No such luck.
I eventually found this charger: https://ebikemarketplace.com/collec...60v-5a-lithium-polymer-battery-charger-li-ion
It has a “3amp” option for $80.00, so I ordered it.
Then, two days after ordering the battery, I had an “Einstein” moment (Larry, that is) and contacted the battery seller to see if I could buy a 2nd battery. I figured that, what the hey, if I didn't need to keep buying complete ebikes (a truly fun sickness, fer sure), I could at least get in on what I considered to be acceptable $$$ for a Reention Dorado cased battery from a reputable USA dealer. After all, I do like to get my nickles worth out of my batteries.
I was informed that the limited duration sale had expired, but, if I wanted to make another purchase, they would send me the “info”. So, they did. So, I did. $1,100 ($550+$550) american smackeroo's. A SicPuppy, fer sure.
Now, back to the charger. I only bought one because, at $80, I could stretch the solo option until an acceptable multi-charger became available. I placed the order on Friday. The charger arrived 3 days later. 60v.. 5amps-- unacceptable.. Based on past “not fun” experiences, I have vowed to never again buy a charger that was in excess of 3amps UNLESS it was a multi-charger. What to do, what to do?
To make a long posting a little less long, the charger was returned to Nevada for an $80 refund. I got on the AliXpress website and ended up ordering two of these (the exact same unit I had been willing to pay $80 for stateside):
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832791354767.html?
and also, one of these because, though I currently have two 52v chargers, the ArielRider original unit is plastic (not really acceptable, at least to me). https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832804716340.html?
So, for $30 more, I get 3 quality chargers, instead of just one. Arf!Arf!
A few days after placing the battery order, both batteries arrive together via UPS. Hot diggity. More toyz.. Vroom, vroom!! BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
I take one battery, push the end button for “charge status”.. 4 green bars.. I install battery onto the ArielRider X52 (its designated owner), push the “on” button. The computer display unit(cdu) shows “7MPH” and the infamous “error” icon that looks like an automobile engine outline. I push the thumb throttle.. NOTHING!! Holy bunnie fartz!!! What to do, what to do??
I removed battery #1 and installed battery #2. Same damn scenario. As far as I was concerned, based on the JackCecil YouTube information, those 60v batteries should have just plugged in and worked fine and dandy. After all, Jack stated that he had a little more than 300 miles on his X52 using ONLY the 60v battery upgrade. Nothing else. Hmm. Something is definitely amiss-- Like I'm amissing $1,100 worth of operational ebike batteries.
Thankfully, I have other ebikes that also utilize the Reention Dorado case battery. True, they are 48v ebikes. However, a quick test to see what the heck happens must be done because I have no other options. So in goes the 60v battery.. On goes the power.. All looks normal, so I press the thumb throttle. Holy crappiedoodle!! That damn Bafang 750watt rear hub motor/wheel unit starts singing like a little birdie. I swear that it could fly me to the moon on the power provided by that 60v/20ah(20 gallon) battery. The dang 2019 M2S(brand) R750(model) ebike, with 15,187 miles, had saved me from having a 'roid explosion. So, naturally, I tried the same test with battery #2. Exact same excellent results. YaHoo.
At least I knew that the new batteries were not at fault. But still, these 60v units were destined for use by the AielRider X52 ebike. The 52v batteries would be used on the two most awesome M2S(brand) ebikes, in addition to the X52 ebike. This crazy-azz chit had really thrown a kinky, twisted wrench into the equation.
I then formed the thought that maybe, just maybe, the 67volt maximum of that 60v battery was “beyond” the parameters of the X52's programming/CDU display. So, I installed a battery onto the M2S ebike and headed out across the street to do a back-and-forth (one mile each way) on a neighboring (and very wide and seldom used) residential street. I would check the battery end cap at each turnaround to see if one green light had disappeared. It took 10 miles for that to finally happen.
I returned to the humble condo, installed the battery onto the X52, checked battery output (61volts), pressed “power” button, and everything appeared to be normal-- no “7MPH”.. no “error” icon. I pressed the thumb throttle. Power.. LOTS of power.. YAHOO!! I win!! So, I repeated the entire process with the 2nd battery. Exact same results. You see, this is a side-benefit of having multiple ebikes, all of them using the same style battery case-- in my situation, it's the Reention Dorado model. I had managed to really dodge an $1,100 bullet.
By the way, both new batteries were at “61v” indicated on my voltage meter. That meant that “67v” was not acceptable, but “61v” was. Now I just had to find out what the MAXIMUM acceptable “v” was going to be. But, to do that, I need those 60v chargers But, they were still enroute from across the wide Pacific. So, I wait.
As I reflect on the various factors involved when dealing with the various batteries (60v, 52V, and 48v) to be used on my 48v ebikes (the two M2S brand) and on my 52v AR X52 mini-beast, I decided that the best solution would be to COMPLETELY ignore the “battery” icon information (5 bars, down to no bars) on the X52 CDU display. Instead, I will cover it with a piece of tape and rely solely on this device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093KTM1PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is mounted next to the CDU display. Also, I will cover its' battery icon with tape. I only care about those “volt” digits. By the way, the “green” screen is the best display option.
Since I will be dealing with 60v and 52v (and occasionally 48v) batteries, I am not concerned with the “%” setting because I would then have to be constantly changing between “13sp” (48v), “14sp” (52v), and “16sp” (60v). All I care about is the Maximum Voltage and the Minimum Voltage of whichever battery is installed at the time. Therefore, any of the 3 aforementioned “sp” settings will work because the actual battery voltage will be displayed irregardless of selection.
Here are those parameters for each battery:
maximum “v” minimum “v”
48v 54 39
52v 59 42
60v 67 48
What I did was to alter the info for each battery into the vertical mode:
5 5 6
4 9 7
volts volts volts
3 4 4
9 2 8
Finally, I printed out that info, followed by a cut/tape to the top-left side of the respective batteries Now I can always see at a glance just what digit “info” I should be watching for. When a battery gets close to “minimum”, I will stop, swap out batteries (a 2-minute operation, by the way) and continue on with my most excellent adventure. And, as always, I can also go by “trip miles ridden” on the CDU display. By going via the 20miles/20miles/10+miles formula (when riding the AR X52), I should never be even close to the MINIMUM number. That should also assure me of many miles of quality battery life. Hope, hope, hope..
Onward and upward to a few other ebike-related items.
In addition to my ebike-buying fetish, I also tend to buy helmets. I currently own 9 of them. A visor is mandatory. My most recent victim was this helmet because I was intrigued by the wrap-around eye guard. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804750449135.html?
And Wow, am I glad I did. A really nice change from sunglasses and their frame blockage/nose piece criteria. The fact that it came with four lenses allowed me to dink around with modifying some of my remaining helmets to accommodate the 3 magnetic retention buttons. And dink around I did.
All I needed was some small powerful magnets. I recently discovered/purchased these magnetic cable/button combo's. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2ZT776S?
Since I don't use the iProduct buttons, they became prime players in my little scheme.
As a part of my daily 50 mile ebike ride/misadventures, I carry an MP3 player, a stereo speaker, dual strobe headlights, and a strobe tail light. All of these devices utilize the usb connection method to recharge their batteries (a daily occurrence). The constant plugging in/unplugging of these little connectors leads to failure after about a one-year time frame. It costs more to get them repaired than to just go ahead and buy a new MP3/speaker/etc. So, that's what I do. Bummer, fer sure. But now, these magnetic buttons negate all the wear on my connectors. I win!
So, onward to the button attachment method. The shape of the button itself makes for the perfect connection device. Just use the large lense to mark the location for each magnet, use a flat-blade screwdriver to penetrate 1/4” (or so) into the helmet body, insert the connection part of the button, and apply a little glue. Datz all folks.
Another option is to buy only the buttons:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7M8PQBG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?
And then there is this individual eye lense/guard option, too.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805383762468.html?
I bought 5 of these (color). I really like this lense because it covers down almost to the cheeks. No excess space to deal with.
A SideNote in regards to the above-mentioned magnetic cable/button combo's: While researching these items, one reviewer mentioned that the cable magnet had a tendency to latch on to any nearby metal. Not a good thing if connected to an electrical outlet . A definite “warm/heat” signature was felt as a result of extended contact. As a result of this reviewers info, I formed a thought.
I bought this item in “clear” and 1/2” size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203049859100?var=503267862122
The magnetic swivel end of the cable has a small light so you know it is receiving electric current. By using clear Heat Shrink Tubing you can always see if the light is on/off. Plus, even if the magnet does latch onto some metal object, the tubing will block the electrical current. I cut it into 3” long sleeves, inserted same over the cable, centered the cable, cut some strong tape into strips to attach to the tubing end on either side of the cable (so it wouldn't “back out”), and finally, attach more tape perpendicular to the former to insure continued adhesion. And there you have it. Yes, I had created a hamster condom.
If you buy these cable/button combo's, when removing the cable swivel end from the button, pull down/up/sideways, but never straight back because there is a very good chance that the button will stay attached to the swivel portion.
My headlights: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804488088664.html?
These lights are AWESOME. I originally found one on Amazon for $20. I bought it, I liked it. I wanted to do further “experiments” but, at $20 a whack, I need to look elsewhere. I found the above AliExpress website link and purchased the 4-pack for $40.
I have two of them mounted on my front fork as stacked items for use as headlights. On “strobe” mode, them give superb output for about 30 miles. The only problem (for me) is that my rides last for 50 miles. So, I turn on one light to begin with. Then, at around the 25-mile point, I also turn on the other lite. For about 5 miles, I will have dual strobes and the the first lite begins to fade out. Then, of course, the second lite shines on brightly for the rest of the ride.
I have also adapted one of these same strobing units into a rear tail light. It can't light for 50 miles, but I also have my original ArielRider tail light turned on, too. After all, who says that a tail light MUST BE RED?? Not me, baby.
And today, just prior to beginning my last bit of input to this thread posting, I decided to put one of these lights on a helmet of mine that was just a “base model” item. Wow!! You talk about an attention getter!! I'm gonna use some velcro trips and install the “hard” side along the front edge of the helmet and the “soft” side along the inside of the light frame. The “soft” side will work to my advantage should I ever decide to utilize the head lamp for its intended purpose. Better soft pressing against my forehead than the spikey hard side.
My other tail light:
I use this very bright non-red strobe light, https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804869297429.html?
mounted in a cell phone armband case https://www.ebay.com/itm/203106430822?, which is attached to my seat rear/seatpost area on my two M2S ebike monsters.
Now, on to PickleBall.
Though I am always ready and willing to go do my daily marathon (50+ mile) ebike rides, I am also constantly on the lookout for some sort of exercise/sporting activity to supplement my riding. The main qualifier must be that any needed equipment must be able to be transported in my backpack, or on my ebike. That factor alone greatly reduces my options. And then, there is the “no ebike parked/locked out of sight.. EVER..” So, needless to say I was dealing with a virtual desert of NaDa..
Enter the Ball of Pickle. Since the aftermath of COVID, I had been seeing a lot of on-line/TV snippets dealing with this whirlwind activity. Back in the 20th century, I had played racquetball a couple times each week. But, since leaving Flagstaff in 2000, I hadn't even touched a racquet. I sure missed smacking the CrappieDoodle out of those blue balls. And, the best part was that you never had to go far to retrieve the ball.
So, keeping those memories close at hand, I started perusing the internet to check out the price of the pickle paddles, etc. On Amazon, I stumbled across these items: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1V2KK89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
At that time, they were on sale for only $30.. Can't go wrong at that price. So, the order was placed.
A few days later, the stuff arrived. I remember that, as a youngster, I had played a lot of sports, including baseball. Sometimes, a whiffle ball and plastic bat was brought out and fun was had by all-- as pre-13 year olds.
However, those plastic whiffle items just did not produce the adrenaline rush that a person gets when they smack the crap out of a real baseball with a real wooden bat. Or, like when you attack a real tennis ball with a tennis racquet. Those pro tennis players grunt like lil' piggies for a very good reason. Impact.. Resistance.. Counter-assault. .Needless to say, after the initial test session lasting about 30 minutes worth of smacking der whiffle ball against a brick wall using a pickle paddle, I deemed the pickle activity would not be for me. No resistance. No impact. You know that you have hit the ball because a). you hear it and, b). you see the ball travel to the other side. But, there is no perceivable “resistance exercise” involved. I compare it to ping-pong, except that you actually stand ON the playing table, instead of standing BEHIND it. And, for another comparison: badminton. . No difference. Not anaerobic(resistance) exercise.. Just the illusion thereof (aerobic).
That having been said, I figure that zillions of folks are absolutely LOVING PICKLEBALL, and to that, I say “you go for it!!” Anyway, before you all go absolutely “pickleball hater” on me, hear me out.
During my research for pickleball equipment, I also happened across this item, a “beach tennis” racquet:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803512483796.html?
And also this item, a “padel” racquet :
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804925121901.html?
Of the two types, I learned that the beach racquet was the “sturdiest” because beach racquetball uses a tennis ball and is a). played on sand and, b). the ball never bounces-- everything is air-to-air. Very interesting. So, based on that criteria, I deemed that the item would best withstand what I had in mind for it. So, I bought the green one. By the way, this racquet is about 10” shorter than an average tennis racquet.
It took two weeks for the beach tennis racquet to arrive. I was quite impressed by its apparent strength. I took it, and one of the pickleball paddles, to a nearby “former” Kmart store that had a really nice backside area which would prove to be perfect for my evil intentions. I spent an hour dinking around with each type paddle. The beach tennis racquet was the hands-down winner. My intention is to absolutely “kill” the (tennis) ball as often as possible. With the pickle paddle, it felt like hitting the ball with an empty aluminum beer can. Not a good thing.
Having settled that matter (beach tennis is the winner), I went about pursuing my next agenda: an additional beach tennis racquet. Why is that? Well, it's because, during my racquetball playing days, I would constantly dink around with using a racquet in my right hand/side, as well as my left hand/side “power” muscles. I got to be fairly consistent at using either side. Start the game using only my right side and then, eventually sneak over to using my left side. Too much fun.
But, now I was going to take things one step farther: 2 racquets, 1 in each hand-- at the same time. So, I ordered an orange paddle. When it arrived, I did a few practice sessions. They turned out to be awesome co-horts in my life of “crime”. Life, at age 72, was looking mighty fine. Too many toyz.
Now, instead of just going out for a daily 50 mile ebike ride, I had selected/discovered numerous buildings which fit my “dual-racquet ball smacking” criteria. Thus, I would ride 10 miles, stop and smack the ball with both racquets for 45 minutes, mount up and ride to another building and repeat same. Day after day. Hell, yes. My current record for consecutive “volleys” is 27.
Then, one day, I got to thinking that, if I did break a racquet, I'd have to wait 14 days for a replacement purchase to arrive. So, I ordered yet another one. Two days prior to its arrival on May 12, 2023 the UNBELIEVABLE happened: I had somehow managed to totally destroy my left knee. And, this situation is my reason for including PickleBall information on an ebike website, so, please bear with me.
I was an absolute basket case. My entire left leg, from the knee area down, was totally useless and my ankle area was swollen. Kind of freaky, fer sure. I couldn't even definitely pin down the villain in my demise, BUT I did have a pretty good idea. When playing “smack the ball against the wall”, I was performing exaggerated lower body twisting actions which were not a part of the bicycling activity. Cycling (since 1983, in my case) is always straight-ahead leg movement. I was now dealing with lateral (side-to-side movement), too. Something that I was 20 years out-of-tune (since Flagstaff) for doing. Plus, I had purchased lighter weight athletic style shoes. Their grip was far superior to my usual footwear. Thus, I had dibbled when I should have dabbled.
To shorten this story, I was basically incapacitated for 9 weeks, until July 17, 2023. And then. Just like that, I was all better. I had managed to fully recover because of the following protocol:
a) consistent use of knee sleeves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114527986747?var=414716795462
b). consistent use of metal arm knee brace:
Hinged Knee Brace Open Patella Compression Support Wrap Meniscus Arthritis Joint | eBay
c) consistent use of this professional knee brace: https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEENCA-Professional-Medical-Knee-Brace-Postoperative-Bracing-Restoring-Stability-ACL-MCL-PCL-Injuries-Adjustable-Orthopedic-Stabilizer-Suitable-Men-W/508483225 I am including this specific item/website because of its awesome LOW PRICE. If you do an internet search, you will find this same (renamed) item for between $80 and $130. I ordered the “left leg” brace. I was blown away but its low price/high quality.
After receiving it, I was doing further searchs and stumbled across the same style, except that it was designed for the inner knee area (the above brace is for the outside of the knee/leg area). So, I formed a thought. I took my “left side” outside brace and mounted it on the inside of my right knee (my good knee). It worked perfectly. Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the “right side” brace, too. As things turned out, after it arrived, I used this right side outside brace on the inside of my screwed up left knee area for the duration of my 2-month fiasco. I want to make this point because this professional brace, at its very low price, is worth being purchased NOW and then stored away until that time when you actually do need “assistance”.
Continue bearing along with me, as I am about to make my overall point of this non-ebike information..
After the first 5 days of total inactivity, I forced my self to go out and do an ebike ride. I figured that the “illusion of exercise” by getting full motion extension on my bad left knee/leg via use of the ebikes height adjustable seatpost and “throttle/PAS” functions would enable me to at least fool myself in the belief that this really was a positive remedy for what could be a permanent old age malady (remember, I am 72). Was I dealing with arthritis? or a torn meniscus?, or an ACL? I just didn't know. But, I had to keep on keeping on.
This crap had started in mid-May. In mid-June, being a VietNam Veteran, I was scheduled for my most excellent annual physical exam/lobotomy at the regional VA clinic. My awesome VA doctor should be able to render an expert opinion. And she did. “Just keep doing what you have been doing because these things can take months to get back to normal”. Sure enough, on July 18th, two months into my ordeal, I was 100% normal again. Awesome. And then, 2 days later, my 25 month old 48v/21ah ebike battery keeled over dead. Just goes to show you that its always gonna be something.
Now for my reasoning for including this very extended PickleBall, etc scenaio:
I expect that many of you viewers are either current PickleBallers, OR you know someone who is. If said player is over the age of 40, PLEASE use the aforementioned knee sleeves on BOTH knees 100% of the time while playing. I'd go so far as to use the metal-insert brace, too. And, why not? The playing area of a pickleball court is really quite small when compared to a tennis court, etc.
Do not go down the road I ended up on. At age 72, two months of not knowing/anxiety on a 24/7 basis really sucks. Play Pickleball.. Ride your awesome ebike to/from those on-court battles/fire fights. And yes, get a bunch of tattoo's, too. Life is good-- until its not.
Don't you always wear a helmet whenever you go ebiking? An ounce of prevention? or a pound of cure? Take the former.
It's time to end this ranting. I still need to formulate/post a thread for my 2019 M2S R750 ebike beast at its' 15,000+ mileage. And then do the same for my 2021 ArielRider X52 at its' 15,000+ mileage. By the way: They both just keep on, keeping on..
[ This UPDATE was posted on Aug 5, 2023. The UpDated portion will be identified by that word in large bold letters as you scroll down past the original 28 postings, the last of which was on page 2 by “scrambler”, on July 27th.
You might want to grab a 6-pack,(or two) because, as usual, this is going to be a very long posting. Maybe I have allowed info to get a little out of hand, but I'm on a roll, PLUS I just do not want to have to post numerous threads. I see that I am at "page 13" right now and I still have a few items to throw your way.
You know those YouTubers who hop on their ebike and just go for a video'd 30 minute ride, all the while babbling on about absolutely zip/nil/nada for the duration?? Well, you may consider me to be their BrotherFromAnotherMother OR, maybe, just maybe, you will gleen a few particles of pertinent, worthwhile “stuff” as a result of these written, as opposed to filmed, ramblings. Remember that I'm doing all the work. All you have to do is critique my stuff, as needed.
The “pickleball” info, while presumably being out-of-place in an ebike forum, is actually not, as you will discover (a really tough lesson learned on my part). I placed it at the very end because the Administrator may ask me to delete it. No problemo]
Here goes for the actual update:
UPDATE: On July 18, 2023, I had yet another trusty ebike battery finally go caa-caa doo-doo.
This particular Reention Dorado-case unit was a 48v/21ah (i.e.“21 gallon”) item that had a “born on” date (that's when it was delivered to my front door) of July 25,2021 (25 months ago). I had purchased it as a stand-alone item from a dubious (in hindsight) stateside website-- but NOT an ebike company.
You must remember that I usually try to do a daily 50+ mile ebike ride. The year 2022 saw me doing a total of 12,731 ebike miles.. In order to accomplish those kind of miles, I either use two batteries (for the M2S(brand) ebike(s), or three batteries (when using the 2021 ArielRider (brand) X52 mini-beast battery hog ebike.
So, on this July 18, 2023 day-of-ride, using the AR X52, I load up two 52v batteries (a 20ah(20 gallon) and an 18ah(18 gallon) ) into my USPS mailbox seat/storage unit. They will be used as swap-out batteries at mile 15 and at mile 35. My initial 15 miles will be handled by the 48v/21ah(21 gallon) battery. I install this battery, turn on the ebike, watch as the screen appears for about 3 seconds, and then it shuts off. I press the end cap button. Nothing. No four green lights.. no red lights. ShitFire.
However, all is not lost because also located on the end cap is this note “45A”, meaning that a 45amp flat blade in-line fuse is installed on this battery. So, no problemo. I grab my 48v/14.5ah(14.5 gallon) battery, install it, and go do my most excellent ride. Though that battery is 6.5ah(6.5 gallons less than the 21ah(21 gal) “bad” battery, it is still capable of going for 15 miles in the X52 piggy.
The next day, I decide to pull the end cap and replace the blown 45amp fuse. I mean, what else COULD it be? I treat my ebike batteries like royalty, so dissention in the ranks is just not possible. BUT NNOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!! the damn fuse is fine and dandy. My battery had apparently committed Larry-Mary (hairy-carry). Now it was definitely ShitFire and DoodleFartz.
Whenever I have a battery “malfunction”, if it's not a blown fuse thing, then that battery goes into the “won't pile”-- kinda like the “wood pile,” except that I won't ever be using this damn battery ever again. By the way, my pile currently has 6 logs total. I know some viewers will say to get the defective product re-built, but that costs mucho$$$, too. I figure that I definitely get the “mileage” out of the batteries I buy. If they can last for 2+ years at my pace, then I should be (and am) satisfied with that factor.
Oh well, I can't really complain because during its 25 month lifetime, it was probably the most used battery in my entire gangsta posse of same. But that also meant that I now only had THREE ebike batteries in my arsenal:
- the aforementioned 48v/14.5ah(14.5 gallon) item that was original equipment on my peas-o-chit 2020 BikTrix SWIFT ebike. It's “born on” date was May 28, 2020 (38 months ago).
- the 52v/18ah( 18 gallon) item that was installed on my ArielRider X52 ebike. Its “born on” date was Aug.5,2021 (25 months ago).
- The 52v/20ah(20 gallon) item I had purchased as a stand-alone item from the fabulous JennyMao. Its “born on” date was Oct. 7, 2022 (10 months ago).
My two M2s(brand) fat tire ebikes, AND my AR X52, are (and have been since I bought the AR X52) using a combination of 48v and 52v batteries. And believe me when I tell you that, though a 48v battery is the original equipment on the two M2S ebikes and they perform awesomely using that battery, they absolutely LOVE the 52v version.
Plus, due to having viewed the recent YouTube postings by Jack Cecil concerning his own 2021 AR X52, I have been very interested in the 60v ebike battery for use on the AR X52. If the 60v does for the original 52v ebike what the 52v does for the original 48v M2S ebikes, then I would be a mighty crappy hamper (happy camper).
I'm not like some of those YT'ers who go GonzoCrazyAzzAllOut for the duration of every ebike ride. Instead, I putt along at 15-20mph while trying to get maximum return on my batteries per ride. I'm kind of like the 72 year old (my age) who drives a 2023 Corvette. I may not stomp the gas pedal on a constant basis, but it sure is nice to know that, should I desire to, the power will spew forth in a very awesome manner. Don't get me wrong, because I do occasionally go AllOut for a very short distance just to impress the vehicle drivers stuck in their daily traffic gridlock. AND I do it on uncluttered sidewalks- NEVER on street “bike lanes”, or mixed in with car traffic.
So, the newest adventure begins.
From my prior battery-related emails with Jenny Mao, I knew that her company was not yet producing 60v Reention Dorado-cased ebike batteries. However, I was aware of a certain United States-based ebike company who had wholeheartedly embracing the latest 60v mindset. Their 60v/20ah(gallon) battery sells for $800. That's kind of expense, but I'd prefer giving them my business instead of an AliXpress(website) ghost entity. However, based on their website photos, I couldn't tell what type of charger-to-battery connection their unit used. So, I zipped off an email.
I quickly got a response. Their connector is indeed the “DC2.1mm” item as used on all of my batteries. AND they have their first generation 60v/20ah(gallon) batteries on sale for $550.00 (while supplies last). Or $600 with the 3amp charger. Hmm. I had paid $600 in July 2022 to Jenny Mao for the 52v/20ah(gallon) battery. What to do, what to do? I asked if the charger was in a plastic housing or in an aluminum housing with built-in fan (both of my awesome M2S ebikes came with a 48v/5amp aluminum housing with built-in cooling fan, so I was kind of spoiled by those two chargers). “Plastic housing and no fan” was the reply. Sooooo...
After sleeping on it, I decided to buy only the battery at $550.. delivered. So, I placed the order.
I then went internet shopping for a 60v charger that had an aluminum case, cooling fan, and the 80%/90%/100% and 1amp/2amp/3amp/4amp/5amp option that my two LUNA 48v chargers and my 52v Eco-Cycles charger had. 52V? Yep(LUNA).. 72V? Yep (LUNA).. But, finding a 60v unit -- No such luck.
I eventually found this charger: https://ebikemarketplace.com/collec...60v-5a-lithium-polymer-battery-charger-li-ion
It has a “3amp” option for $80.00, so I ordered it.
Then, two days after ordering the battery, I had an “Einstein” moment (Larry, that is) and contacted the battery seller to see if I could buy a 2nd battery. I figured that, what the hey, if I didn't need to keep buying complete ebikes (a truly fun sickness, fer sure), I could at least get in on what I considered to be acceptable $$$ for a Reention Dorado cased battery from a reputable USA dealer. After all, I do like to get my nickles worth out of my batteries.
I was informed that the limited duration sale had expired, but, if I wanted to make another purchase, they would send me the “info”. So, they did. So, I did. $1,100 ($550+$550) american smackeroo's. A SicPuppy, fer sure.
Now, back to the charger. I only bought one because, at $80, I could stretch the solo option until an acceptable multi-charger became available. I placed the order on Friday. The charger arrived 3 days later. 60v.. 5amps-- unacceptable.. Based on past “not fun” experiences, I have vowed to never again buy a charger that was in excess of 3amps UNLESS it was a multi-charger. What to do, what to do?
To make a long posting a little less long, the charger was returned to Nevada for an $80 refund. I got on the AliXpress website and ended up ordering two of these (the exact same unit I had been willing to pay $80 for stateside):
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832791354767.html?
and also, one of these because, though I currently have two 52v chargers, the ArielRider original unit is plastic (not really acceptable, at least to me). https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832804716340.html?
So, for $30 more, I get 3 quality chargers, instead of just one. Arf!Arf!
A few days after placing the battery order, both batteries arrive together via UPS. Hot diggity. More toyz.. Vroom, vroom!! BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
I take one battery, push the end button for “charge status”.. 4 green bars.. I install battery onto the ArielRider X52 (its designated owner), push the “on” button. The computer display unit(cdu) shows “7MPH” and the infamous “error” icon that looks like an automobile engine outline. I push the thumb throttle.. NOTHING!! Holy bunnie fartz!!! What to do, what to do??
I removed battery #1 and installed battery #2. Same damn scenario. As far as I was concerned, based on the JackCecil YouTube information, those 60v batteries should have just plugged in and worked fine and dandy. After all, Jack stated that he had a little more than 300 miles on his X52 using ONLY the 60v battery upgrade. Nothing else. Hmm. Something is definitely amiss-- Like I'm amissing $1,100 worth of operational ebike batteries.
Thankfully, I have other ebikes that also utilize the Reention Dorado case battery. True, they are 48v ebikes. However, a quick test to see what the heck happens must be done because I have no other options. So in goes the 60v battery.. On goes the power.. All looks normal, so I press the thumb throttle. Holy crappiedoodle!! That damn Bafang 750watt rear hub motor/wheel unit starts singing like a little birdie. I swear that it could fly me to the moon on the power provided by that 60v/20ah(20 gallon) battery. The dang 2019 M2S(brand) R750(model) ebike, with 15,187 miles, had saved me from having a 'roid explosion. So, naturally, I tried the same test with battery #2. Exact same excellent results. YaHoo.
At least I knew that the new batteries were not at fault. But still, these 60v units were destined for use by the AielRider X52 ebike. The 52v batteries would be used on the two most awesome M2S(brand) ebikes, in addition to the X52 ebike. This crazy-azz chit had really thrown a kinky, twisted wrench into the equation.
I then formed the thought that maybe, just maybe, the 67volt maximum of that 60v battery was “beyond” the parameters of the X52's programming/CDU display. So, I installed a battery onto the M2S ebike and headed out across the street to do a back-and-forth (one mile each way) on a neighboring (and very wide and seldom used) residential street. I would check the battery end cap at each turnaround to see if one green light had disappeared. It took 10 miles for that to finally happen.
I returned to the humble condo, installed the battery onto the X52, checked battery output (61volts), pressed “power” button, and everything appeared to be normal-- no “7MPH”.. no “error” icon. I pressed the thumb throttle. Power.. LOTS of power.. YAHOO!! I win!! So, I repeated the entire process with the 2nd battery. Exact same results. You see, this is a side-benefit of having multiple ebikes, all of them using the same style battery case-- in my situation, it's the Reention Dorado model. I had managed to really dodge an $1,100 bullet.
By the way, both new batteries were at “61v” indicated on my voltage meter. That meant that “67v” was not acceptable, but “61v” was. Now I just had to find out what the MAXIMUM acceptable “v” was going to be. But, to do that, I need those 60v chargers But, they were still enroute from across the wide Pacific. So, I wait.
As I reflect on the various factors involved when dealing with the various batteries (60v, 52V, and 48v) to be used on my 48v ebikes (the two M2S brand) and on my 52v AR X52 mini-beast, I decided that the best solution would be to COMPLETELY ignore the “battery” icon information (5 bars, down to no bars) on the X52 CDU display. Instead, I will cover it with a piece of tape and rely solely on this device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093KTM1PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is mounted next to the CDU display. Also, I will cover its' battery icon with tape. I only care about those “volt” digits. By the way, the “green” screen is the best display option.
Since I will be dealing with 60v and 52v (and occasionally 48v) batteries, I am not concerned with the “%” setting because I would then have to be constantly changing between “13sp” (48v), “14sp” (52v), and “16sp” (60v). All I care about is the Maximum Voltage and the Minimum Voltage of whichever battery is installed at the time. Therefore, any of the 3 aforementioned “sp” settings will work because the actual battery voltage will be displayed irregardless of selection.
Here are those parameters for each battery:
maximum “v” minimum “v”
48v 54 39
52v 59 42
60v 67 48
What I did was to alter the info for each battery into the vertical mode:
5 5 6
4 9 7
volts volts volts
3 4 4
9 2 8
Finally, I printed out that info, followed by a cut/tape to the top-left side of the respective batteries Now I can always see at a glance just what digit “info” I should be watching for. When a battery gets close to “minimum”, I will stop, swap out batteries (a 2-minute operation, by the way) and continue on with my most excellent adventure. And, as always, I can also go by “trip miles ridden” on the CDU display. By going via the 20miles/20miles/10+miles formula (when riding the AR X52), I should never be even close to the MINIMUM number. That should also assure me of many miles of quality battery life. Hope, hope, hope..
Onward and upward to a few other ebike-related items.
In addition to my ebike-buying fetish, I also tend to buy helmets. I currently own 9 of them. A visor is mandatory. My most recent victim was this helmet because I was intrigued by the wrap-around eye guard. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804750449135.html?
And Wow, am I glad I did. A really nice change from sunglasses and their frame blockage/nose piece criteria. The fact that it came with four lenses allowed me to dink around with modifying some of my remaining helmets to accommodate the 3 magnetic retention buttons. And dink around I did.
All I needed was some small powerful magnets. I recently discovered/purchased these magnetic cable/button combo's. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2ZT776S?
Since I don't use the iProduct buttons, they became prime players in my little scheme.
As a part of my daily 50 mile ebike ride/misadventures, I carry an MP3 player, a stereo speaker, dual strobe headlights, and a strobe tail light. All of these devices utilize the usb connection method to recharge their batteries (a daily occurrence). The constant plugging in/unplugging of these little connectors leads to failure after about a one-year time frame. It costs more to get them repaired than to just go ahead and buy a new MP3/speaker/etc. So, that's what I do. Bummer, fer sure. But now, these magnetic buttons negate all the wear on my connectors. I win!
So, onward to the button attachment method. The shape of the button itself makes for the perfect connection device. Just use the large lense to mark the location for each magnet, use a flat-blade screwdriver to penetrate 1/4” (or so) into the helmet body, insert the connection part of the button, and apply a little glue. Datz all folks.
Another option is to buy only the buttons:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7M8PQBG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?
And then there is this individual eye lense/guard option, too.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805383762468.html?
I bought 5 of these (color). I really like this lense because it covers down almost to the cheeks. No excess space to deal with.
A SideNote in regards to the above-mentioned magnetic cable/button combo's: While researching these items, one reviewer mentioned that the cable magnet had a tendency to latch on to any nearby metal. Not a good thing if connected to an electrical outlet . A definite “warm/heat” signature was felt as a result of extended contact. As a result of this reviewers info, I formed a thought.
I bought this item in “clear” and 1/2” size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203049859100?var=503267862122
The magnetic swivel end of the cable has a small light so you know it is receiving electric current. By using clear Heat Shrink Tubing you can always see if the light is on/off. Plus, even if the magnet does latch onto some metal object, the tubing will block the electrical current. I cut it into 3” long sleeves, inserted same over the cable, centered the cable, cut some strong tape into strips to attach to the tubing end on either side of the cable (so it wouldn't “back out”), and finally, attach more tape perpendicular to the former to insure continued adhesion. And there you have it. Yes, I had created a hamster condom.
If you buy these cable/button combo's, when removing the cable swivel end from the button, pull down/up/sideways, but never straight back because there is a very good chance that the button will stay attached to the swivel portion.
My headlights: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804488088664.html?
These lights are AWESOME. I originally found one on Amazon for $20. I bought it, I liked it. I wanted to do further “experiments” but, at $20 a whack, I need to look elsewhere. I found the above AliExpress website link and purchased the 4-pack for $40.
I have two of them mounted on my front fork as stacked items for use as headlights. On “strobe” mode, them give superb output for about 30 miles. The only problem (for me) is that my rides last for 50 miles. So, I turn on one light to begin with. Then, at around the 25-mile point, I also turn on the other lite. For about 5 miles, I will have dual strobes and the the first lite begins to fade out. Then, of course, the second lite shines on brightly for the rest of the ride.
I have also adapted one of these same strobing units into a rear tail light. It can't light for 50 miles, but I also have my original ArielRider tail light turned on, too. After all, who says that a tail light MUST BE RED?? Not me, baby.
And today, just prior to beginning my last bit of input to this thread posting, I decided to put one of these lights on a helmet of mine that was just a “base model” item. Wow!! You talk about an attention getter!! I'm gonna use some velcro trips and install the “hard” side along the front edge of the helmet and the “soft” side along the inside of the light frame. The “soft” side will work to my advantage should I ever decide to utilize the head lamp for its intended purpose. Better soft pressing against my forehead than the spikey hard side.
My other tail light:
I use this very bright non-red strobe light, https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804869297429.html?
mounted in a cell phone armband case https://www.ebay.com/itm/203106430822?, which is attached to my seat rear/seatpost area on my two M2S ebike monsters.
Now, on to PickleBall.
Though I am always ready and willing to go do my daily marathon (50+ mile) ebike rides, I am also constantly on the lookout for some sort of exercise/sporting activity to supplement my riding. The main qualifier must be that any needed equipment must be able to be transported in my backpack, or on my ebike. That factor alone greatly reduces my options. And then, there is the “no ebike parked/locked out of sight.. EVER..” So, needless to say I was dealing with a virtual desert of NaDa..
Enter the Ball of Pickle. Since the aftermath of COVID, I had been seeing a lot of on-line/TV snippets dealing with this whirlwind activity. Back in the 20th century, I had played racquetball a couple times each week. But, since leaving Flagstaff in 2000, I hadn't even touched a racquet. I sure missed smacking the CrappieDoodle out of those blue balls. And, the best part was that you never had to go far to retrieve the ball.
So, keeping those memories close at hand, I started perusing the internet to check out the price of the pickle paddles, etc. On Amazon, I stumbled across these items: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1V2KK89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
At that time, they were on sale for only $30.. Can't go wrong at that price. So, the order was placed.
A few days later, the stuff arrived. I remember that, as a youngster, I had played a lot of sports, including baseball. Sometimes, a whiffle ball and plastic bat was brought out and fun was had by all-- as pre-13 year olds.
However, those plastic whiffle items just did not produce the adrenaline rush that a person gets when they smack the crap out of a real baseball with a real wooden bat. Or, like when you attack a real tennis ball with a tennis racquet. Those pro tennis players grunt like lil' piggies for a very good reason. Impact.. Resistance.. Counter-assault. .Needless to say, after the initial test session lasting about 30 minutes worth of smacking der whiffle ball against a brick wall using a pickle paddle, I deemed the pickle activity would not be for me. No resistance. No impact. You know that you have hit the ball because a). you hear it and, b). you see the ball travel to the other side. But, there is no perceivable “resistance exercise” involved. I compare it to ping-pong, except that you actually stand ON the playing table, instead of standing BEHIND it. And, for another comparison: badminton. . No difference. Not anaerobic(resistance) exercise.. Just the illusion thereof (aerobic).
That having been said, I figure that zillions of folks are absolutely LOVING PICKLEBALL, and to that, I say “you go for it!!” Anyway, before you all go absolutely “pickleball hater” on me, hear me out.
During my research for pickleball equipment, I also happened across this item, a “beach tennis” racquet:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803512483796.html?
And also this item, a “padel” racquet :
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804925121901.html?
Of the two types, I learned that the beach racquet was the “sturdiest” because beach racquetball uses a tennis ball and is a). played on sand and, b). the ball never bounces-- everything is air-to-air. Very interesting. So, based on that criteria, I deemed that the item would best withstand what I had in mind for it. So, I bought the green one. By the way, this racquet is about 10” shorter than an average tennis racquet.
It took two weeks for the beach tennis racquet to arrive. I was quite impressed by its apparent strength. I took it, and one of the pickleball paddles, to a nearby “former” Kmart store that had a really nice backside area which would prove to be perfect for my evil intentions. I spent an hour dinking around with each type paddle. The beach tennis racquet was the hands-down winner. My intention is to absolutely “kill” the (tennis) ball as often as possible. With the pickle paddle, it felt like hitting the ball with an empty aluminum beer can. Not a good thing.
Having settled that matter (beach tennis is the winner), I went about pursuing my next agenda: an additional beach tennis racquet. Why is that? Well, it's because, during my racquetball playing days, I would constantly dink around with using a racquet in my right hand/side, as well as my left hand/side “power” muscles. I got to be fairly consistent at using either side. Start the game using only my right side and then, eventually sneak over to using my left side. Too much fun.
But, now I was going to take things one step farther: 2 racquets, 1 in each hand-- at the same time. So, I ordered an orange paddle. When it arrived, I did a few practice sessions. They turned out to be awesome co-horts in my life of “crime”. Life, at age 72, was looking mighty fine. Too many toyz.
Now, instead of just going out for a daily 50 mile ebike ride, I had selected/discovered numerous buildings which fit my “dual-racquet ball smacking” criteria. Thus, I would ride 10 miles, stop and smack the ball with both racquets for 45 minutes, mount up and ride to another building and repeat same. Day after day. Hell, yes. My current record for consecutive “volleys” is 27.
Then, one day, I got to thinking that, if I did break a racquet, I'd have to wait 14 days for a replacement purchase to arrive. So, I ordered yet another one. Two days prior to its arrival on May 12, 2023 the UNBELIEVABLE happened: I had somehow managed to totally destroy my left knee. And, this situation is my reason for including PickleBall information on an ebike website, so, please bear with me.
I was an absolute basket case. My entire left leg, from the knee area down, was totally useless and my ankle area was swollen. Kind of freaky, fer sure. I couldn't even definitely pin down the villain in my demise, BUT I did have a pretty good idea. When playing “smack the ball against the wall”, I was performing exaggerated lower body twisting actions which were not a part of the bicycling activity. Cycling (since 1983, in my case) is always straight-ahead leg movement. I was now dealing with lateral (side-to-side movement), too. Something that I was 20 years out-of-tune (since Flagstaff) for doing. Plus, I had purchased lighter weight athletic style shoes. Their grip was far superior to my usual footwear. Thus, I had dibbled when I should have dabbled.
To shorten this story, I was basically incapacitated for 9 weeks, until July 17, 2023. And then. Just like that, I was all better. I had managed to fully recover because of the following protocol:
a) consistent use of knee sleeves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114527986747?var=414716795462
b). consistent use of metal arm knee brace:
Hinged Knee Brace Open Patella Compression Support Wrap Meniscus Arthritis Joint | eBay
c) consistent use of this professional knee brace: https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEENCA-Professional-Medical-Knee-Brace-Postoperative-Bracing-Restoring-Stability-ACL-MCL-PCL-Injuries-Adjustable-Orthopedic-Stabilizer-Suitable-Men-W/508483225 I am including this specific item/website because of its awesome LOW PRICE. If you do an internet search, you will find this same (renamed) item for between $80 and $130. I ordered the “left leg” brace. I was blown away but its low price/high quality.
After receiving it, I was doing further searchs and stumbled across the same style, except that it was designed for the inner knee area (the above brace is for the outside of the knee/leg area). So, I formed a thought. I took my “left side” outside brace and mounted it on the inside of my right knee (my good knee). It worked perfectly. Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the “right side” brace, too. As things turned out, after it arrived, I used this right side outside brace on the inside of my screwed up left knee area for the duration of my 2-month fiasco. I want to make this point because this professional brace, at its very low price, is worth being purchased NOW and then stored away until that time when you actually do need “assistance”.
Continue bearing along with me, as I am about to make my overall point of this non-ebike information..
After the first 5 days of total inactivity, I forced my self to go out and do an ebike ride. I figured that the “illusion of exercise” by getting full motion extension on my bad left knee/leg via use of the ebikes height adjustable seatpost and “throttle/PAS” functions would enable me to at least fool myself in the belief that this really was a positive remedy for what could be a permanent old age malady (remember, I am 72). Was I dealing with arthritis? or a torn meniscus?, or an ACL? I just didn't know. But, I had to keep on keeping on.
This crap had started in mid-May. In mid-June, being a VietNam Veteran, I was scheduled for my most excellent annual physical exam/lobotomy at the regional VA clinic. My awesome VA doctor should be able to render an expert opinion. And she did. “Just keep doing what you have been doing because these things can take months to get back to normal”. Sure enough, on July 18th, two months into my ordeal, I was 100% normal again. Awesome. And then, 2 days later, my 25 month old 48v/21ah ebike battery keeled over dead. Just goes to show you that its always gonna be something.
Now for my reasoning for including this very extended PickleBall, etc scenaio:
I expect that many of you viewers are either current PickleBallers, OR you know someone who is. If said player is over the age of 40, PLEASE use the aforementioned knee sleeves on BOTH knees 100% of the time while playing. I'd go so far as to use the metal-insert brace, too. And, why not? The playing area of a pickleball court is really quite small when compared to a tennis court, etc.
Do not go down the road I ended up on. At age 72, two months of not knowing/anxiety on a 24/7 basis really sucks. Play Pickleball.. Ride your awesome ebike to/from those on-court battles/fire fights. And yes, get a bunch of tattoo's, too. Life is good-- until its not.
Don't you always wear a helmet whenever you go ebiking? An ounce of prevention? or a pound of cure? Take the former.
It's time to end this ranting. I still need to formulate/post a thread for my 2019 M2S R750 ebike beast at its' 15,000+ mileage. And then do the same for my 2021 ArielRider X52 at its' 15,000+ mileage. By the way: They both just keep on, keeping on..
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Hi all,
Since this particular thread has generated 8,000+ views thus far, I am aware that some of those past viewers will have a “WATCH” to alert them for any new postings to it. That being the case, I want to utilize this space to bring attention to yet another EBReview thread of mine. It references a local lady ebike nut who was the victim of a night time hit-and-run. The linked thread below actually means more to me than any of my other 100+ posted threads:
https://forums.electricbikereview.c...ke-my-new-2023-all-terrain-cargo-ebike.54997/
SicPuppy.
Since this particular thread has generated 8,000+ views thus far, I am aware that some of those past viewers will have a “WATCH” to alert them for any new postings to it. That being the case, I want to utilize this space to bring attention to yet another EBReview thread of mine. It references a local lady ebike nut who was the victim of a night time hit-and-run. The linked thread below actually means more to me than any of my other 100+ posted threads:
https://forums.electricbikereview.c...ke-my-new-2023-all-terrain-cargo-ebike.54997/
SicPuppy.
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Catalyzt
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
This is fantastic stuff. Your posts are even more long-winded and OCD than mine, and certainly far more knowledgable. I use that term loosely. OCD can be really debilitating when it takes certain forms, but there's nothing unhealthy or unhelpful about what you're doing that I can see.
What I'm trying to game out-- and it's utterly impossible-- is the impact of not only vertical elevation, but also grade, on battery life.
What I mean by that is, where I live, I figure 100 feet of elevation for every 10 miles, which is a completely different situation from where you ride. However, I believe-- though I can't prove-- that if I rode up 10 miles and 1,000 feet of vertical on an consistent grade, I would degrade the life of my battery much more slowly than the terrain here, where a cumulative gain of 1,000 feet involves erratic grades-- e.g., some downhill, then pretty steep ascents.
Do you agree? Just curious, because my battery on my eMTB has been behaving a bit oddly after only 1,500 miles-- shut down once when I was down to one 'bar,' but had not hit reserve yet (blinking display.) Usually, my range estimates -- which key off voltage, I'm sure -- drop to zero for high, then zero for norm, then zero for eco before I even get to that reserve. When the battery died, the range suddenly dropped to zero, but I just had one bar left. Motor is Shimano E5000, battery is BT-6010.
What I'm trying to game out-- and it's utterly impossible-- is the impact of not only vertical elevation, but also grade, on battery life.
What I mean by that is, where I live, I figure 100 feet of elevation for every 10 miles, which is a completely different situation from where you ride. However, I believe-- though I can't prove-- that if I rode up 10 miles and 1,000 feet of vertical on an consistent grade, I would degrade the life of my battery much more slowly than the terrain here, where a cumulative gain of 1,000 feet involves erratic grades-- e.g., some downhill, then pretty steep ascents.
Do you agree? Just curious, because my battery on my eMTB has been behaving a bit oddly after only 1,500 miles-- shut down once when I was down to one 'bar,' but had not hit reserve yet (blinking display.) Usually, my range estimates -- which key off voltage, I'm sure -- drop to zero for high, then zero for norm, then zero for eco before I even get to that reserve. When the battery died, the range suddenly dropped to zero, but I just had one bar left. Motor is Shimano E5000, battery is BT-6010.
Hi Catalyzt,
Thanks for the kind words.
Yes, I do tend to ramble on most of the time as I attempt to convey my hard-learned lessons on to other EBR viewers. And nowadays, with so many new ebike companies out and about in their attempts to penetrate the already saturated market, I am hoping my info will save other ebikers lots and lots o' $$$..
I find your request to be interesting in the sense that ebike owners need to view their $500+ ebike battery pack in exactly the same way they do a $3 flashlight that uses C-cell batteries.
By that, I mean when a flashlight (with fresh batteries) is first turned on, it is very bright. However, if you just leave it be, as the hours click by, the bright light gradually dims due to the battery being drained. Eventually, it goes out completely. The same goes for an ebike battery as the miles roll by.
For me, when out on a ride, if any climbs are involved, I had better have my additional battery pack on hand for good measure to plug in. That is how I have negated “range anxiety” in my own ebike journeys since 2018 (6 years ago). Seeing as how my usual daily ride is 50miles, I definitely want to nip the “range anxiety” factor in the bud. To cure same, I always use 2 batteries and sometimes, (depending on the particular ebike), even 3 batteries.
In regards to your question of a slow gradual climb versus multiple short steep climbs: I would choose the long gradual climb any day.
Your battery will drive you bat chit crazy trying to keep up with the very erratic readings as displayed on your 5 bar--1 bar icon as you climb those short steep hills. And yes, sooner rather than later, your battery management system (BMS-- located inside the battery casing) will shut things down. That can, and will, occur even if you have just reduced from 2 bars to 1 bar. I don't think the "flashing battery" icon will even have a chance to make an appearance.
Factor in the addition of your battery pack being down to “one bar” is another no-no. As climbs do require extra juice from the battery, the battery itself, at one bar, is already barely holding on to provide any omph at all.
Whenever I get down to the “one bar” icon, I can definitely feel the greatly reduced power coming from the motor. I also figure in the reality that I probably only have another 5 miles of level riding remaining.
I looked at some of your other EBR postings and it seems that you are using an ebike with a 36volt battery system. When dealing with climbs, especially multiple climbs, you are definitely asking too much of that 36v battery. Also factor in the wattage of your motor, be it mid-drive or rear hub. I wouldn't want a rear hub motor of less than 750watts. Why is that? Because the motor, while maybe being “overly powerful” in a general sense, is NOT going to be overly stressed/strained when dealing with the uppsies, especially steep ones.
My recommendation to any potential ebiker: Buy an ebike having at least a 750watt rear hub motor. Make sure the ebike has at least a 48 volt battery. A 52volt battery would be even better. A 60volt battery will make an ebike feel like a rocket-- even if you never intend to use/need that extra power. With ebikes being so very cost efficient nowadays, the difference will only be a few hundred dollars between a 36v/500w turtle and a 750w(or even1000w) psycho hare. And, if you must deal with hilly terrain, either steep or gradual, your higher wattage motor and your higher voltage battery will be getting much less stress from excess power being required.
So, hope that I have answered your inquiry satisfactorily and without too much excess verbiage.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Batteries are non-linear as they drain. The bar gauges measure voltage, but capacity isn't proportional. At 50% voltage. you might have 40% capacity, At 20% voltage, maybe under 10%. Gets worse with age when the cells start losing ability to handle high current. An older battery when partially charged is more prone to shut off from voltage sag if you put a high load on it. All of this is less important with bigger capacity batteries, but is more apparent, of course, with smaller batteries.
I believe what ages a battery is running higher current and running it til the bike shuts off. I've got batteries that are 7-9 years old that have been lightly used and still work OK. Then i've got batteries that I hot rodded to the point where they blew fuses. They didn't last long after the fuses were replaced. Unless I'm off on one of mybattery testing science experiemnts, I rarely run a battery past halfway.
If you climb 1000 feet in 10 miles, it shouldn't matter whether you do it 100 feet on one trip ten times, or on a single trip. The physics majors will tell you you used the same energy, At least for Physics 101. What does change is if you started each of those 1 mile trips with a recharged battery, The battery is nonlinear, so the one that has to do all ten miles will use more power to recharge. It also gets more stress and will age more, In real life, a bigger battery will also do better too.
I believe what ages a battery is running higher current and running it til the bike shuts off. I've got batteries that are 7-9 years old that have been lightly used and still work OK. Then i've got batteries that I hot rodded to the point where they blew fuses. They didn't last long after the fuses were replaced. Unless I'm off on one of mybattery testing science experiemnts, I rarely run a battery past halfway.
If you climb 1000 feet in 10 miles, it shouldn't matter whether you do it 100 feet on one trip ten times, or on a single trip. The physics majors will tell you you used the same energy, At least for Physics 101. What does change is if you started each of those 1 mile trips with a recharged battery, The battery is nonlinear, so the one that has to do all ten miles will use more power to recharge. It also gets more stress and will age more, In real life, a bigger battery will also do better too.
FiremarshallDave
Member
- Region
- USA
Some observations as I read thru...The bar gauge is base on 48v so if you have a 52v batt you will not hit 4 bars until you get below the 48v range then it's a quick descent to 40v. Battery bonk. I've read about people calling the manufacturer to say they need a battery as theirs is defective (it cuts to half power or worse then comes back. Most experienced riders understand what is happening. When the temps in the batt recover and or re balancing occurs you get some power back It's a short ride from there most of the time to shut down. You can't use burst rate amperage for sustained speed. There is a sustained flow amperage draw for every battery. It depends on both the individual cells and the BMS. Look up 18650 and you will see discharge rates from 8A to 35A. The cells matter. I have (3 ) 7 year old batteries from EM3ev 20AH with PF cells. They gave me a choice of cells and I went with cells sporting the most recharge cycles. My battery is mounted on a rear carrier in a tool bag. They are used daily for about 15 miles but see little use in winter and are stored at 50%. I built a new fat tire and put the old 2017 batt on it. The BMS is a 30A. Not so good for a high rolling resistance bike. Still works great in my elec tadpole and my elec 29er. So I buy a 36AH batt with a 50A BMS. Problem solved,. I have yet to get any tap out. My point is this...Why not move to a rear rack battery instead of carrying it on your back? run one 36AH and no switcharoo. I'm sure you pay more for the frame mount stuff. I did add a couple alum struts to insure the rack was bullet proof. I also use the Anderson 30A charge connectors and the 90A anti spark discharge connectors. We all have our own ways of doing things but my fugly battery is in a beautiful bag and I can carry whatever else I need (tools and a tube) in the same bag. Someone... perhaps in this thread talked about replacing bad cells in a battery pack. I hope everyone knows that really dangerous. Don't mix new and old. The EM3ev batts are in different bikes by the way everyone in the family rides spring to fall and my second youngest rides year round (the snow and salt have destroyed his bike and I'm in the process of rebuilding it
