On/Off Switch

RickR

New Member
Region
USA
Does anyone have a source for a 48 Volt capacity on / off switch with XT 60 male / female for ebike battery. When I connect the battery it sparks if there is not a switch. Over time it destroys the XT60 plug
 
There is this one but the spark may destroy the switch as well:

1767804300544.png

 
It's easy enough to make one with your preferred switch also. You can buy XT60 pigtails and solder or crimp on a connector. They also sell pigtails with connectors already crimped on. But I would just change over to a different connector as Chargeride suggested if that is possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Hiteuoms-XT6...-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/PNGKNYOCN-Te...-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

61SYsXMeoaL._SL1500_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Batt...125&sprefix=battery+disc,aps,569&sr=8-13&th=1
 
This is how I did an anti-spark XT60. Pretty much any resistor should work, but keep it over 5000 ohms. When the switch is turned on, it allows full current to go thru.

anti-spark.jpg

It can be realized like this. I quit using it though. I'm not having a problem with the XT60's turning black.
P1110453.JPG
 


Do they have those with wire leads attached?

I couldn't manage to solder leads to my XT60 connectors without them melting, even with my specially designed heat sink and my 250 Watt Weller soldering gun.
 

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I had way better luck, and better economy with these connectors.
Just cut and paste(solder) the connector you need,..



Screenshot_20260107_224700_AliExpress.jpg
 
Yeah, the XT60's are a bear to solder effectively without melting or getting a cold solder joint. I use the pigtail version and use solder & heat shrink to wire them up:

1767880479024.png

https://www.amazon.com/ZHOFONET-Pig...-2- spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

If you cut the leads short, you can cover the joint with these heat shrink boots for a "professional" look.

1767880914170.png

 
Last edited:
Do they have those with wire leads attached?

I couldn't manage to solder leads to my XT60 connectors without them melting, even with my specially designed heat sink and my 250 Watt Weller soldering gun.
That's your problem. You don't use a TEC 9 to shoot ducks for dinner unless you know how to use it.
 
Does anyone have a source for a 48 Volt capacity on / off switch with XT 60 male / female for ebike battery. When I connect the battery it sparks if there is not a switch. Over time it destroys the XT60 plug
Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a rocker switch from AliExpress that said it would take 52 V . It has a XT60 M/F I will see if it works.
My other question is that Lowes sells a in line light switch but is rated at 3 maps. ?? is it the voltage that is causing the spark or the amp My setup is 36 V with 20 amp battery.
 
Thanks ?? Are all XT 90 m/F spark proof or only certain brands . I did not see a website for RCpow. do you have a link to buy the spark proof XT90
 
Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a rocker switch from AliExpress that said it would take 52 V . It has a XT60 M/F I will see if it works.
My other question is that Lowes sells a in line light switch but is rated at 3 maps. ?? is it the voltage that is causing the spark or the amp My setup is 36 V with 20 amp battery.
There could be arcing inside a switch rated for a lower voltage than you are using it for. Arcing occurs when there is enough of a voltage difference to overcome the impedance of the air separating the contacts. If that is the case, the switch contacts could eventually fuse (weld together) or could have contact pitting and wear.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a rocker switch from AliExpress that said it would take 52 V . It has a XT60 M/F I will see if it works.
My other question is that Lowes sells a in line light switch but is rated at 3 maps. ?? is it the voltage that is causing the spark or the amp My setup is 36 V with 20 amp battery.
Power (volts times amps) is causing the spark, not the rating of a switch or connector. The switch or connector should be rated at or above the voltage and amperage of what is running through it. Another consideration is AC rating versus DC rating. Do not assume that they are the same. If a connector or switch is rated below the voltage you need, it can cause arcing. If it is rated under the current capacity that you need, it can cause heating of the device. Either of these conditions can cause a fire.
 
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