New Frey Owners

I see, thanks for the help, I think my decision on the Frey will come down to the wait time anf total price. I'm still waiting for info from them on that.
 
I see, thanks for the help, I think my decision on the Frey will come down to the wait time anf total price. I'm still waiting for info from them on that.
Plan on 4 grand and 6 months and if you get it cheaper and/or sooner it's a bonus. I ordered mid October and still waiting for my CC...
 
I eventually decided on the Frey as I really wanted the extra battery power and plan on getting the x1 controller for it most likely. Got the Frey EX Advanced with the dual batteries and the lights, fenders, dropper post, and gear sensor. I know the weight of it won't be an issue as I have ridden around an 88lb ebike before and that was ok. It looks like the total wait will probably be around 4 months but its ok if its longer. If it takes until closer to winter I will just have to get some good winter gear to ride in the cold lol.

I will try to remember to come back here after riding it some and give my thoughts on it to help other buyers who are unsure. Will also update on the process until I get the bike.
 
I eventually decided on the Frey as I really wanted the extra battery power and plan on getting the x1 controller for it most likely. Got the Frey EX Advanced with the dual batteries and the lights, fenders, dropper post, and gear sensor. I know the weight of it won't be an issue as I have ridden around an 88lb ebike before and that was ok. It looks like the total wait will probably be around 4 months but its ok if its longer. If it takes until closer to winter I will just have to get some good winter gear to ride in the cold lol.

I will try to remember to come back here after riding it some and give my thoughts on it to help other buyers who are unsure. Will also update on the process until I get the bike.
Perhaps you know all the below. But maybe there's somebody else lurking that can use this info.

Go to Wattwagons site and read their instructions on sending in your motor for the upgrade. Do those things. Then just order a new motor with the controller and whatever wattage you want. After installing your new motor you can send the old one for conversion. Having a backup motor on the shelf is well worth the money. Changing motors takes about an hour if you are careful and you should be. You will need the proper tools. A crank puller and the big ole safety nut socket as well as spring loaded 'C' clamp pliers and something about the size of a pencil made of steel to drive the 3 motor mount bolts out.

Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 8.56.06 PM.png
This is a crank puller. With the splined type crank you need that little black ( not always black ) piece on the end. A small bolt will do but you can find the puller on lots of sites.

Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 8.56.20 PM.png
Thes sorts of pliers have two actions. One spreads the tips apart ant the other moves the ends like regular pliers. A good pair comes with different sized tips. There is a fairly large C clamp that has to come off before you can take off the safety nut.

Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 8.55.50 PM.png

This is the safety nut socket. The one I have has a 3/8" drive hole but my big ole torque wrench is 1/2" so I have an adapter. The safety nut must be torqued to spec.

Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 8.56.35 PM.png

Finally this is what I use to drive out the motor mount bolts. They are tight and they won't come out any other way. Getting them back in is a trick. It's just a drill bit extension. Lots of different things would work.

Work on the bike while it's upside down. Believe it. When putting the new motor in you must carefully arrange the wires or they will be crushed inappropriately by the motor. The bracket that holds the motor has room, you just have to think about getting the wires to lay flat and not crisscrossed. There are some wires coming out of the motor you won't use. Put them to the side of the bracket away from where you make your connections to the display, brake cutoff wires. With the bike upside down ( blocks under the grips ) you can push down on the motor as you put the bolts back in.

Put the left crank and pedal on first. You'll need it to hold onto while torquing down the safety nut on the right crank spline.

Finally, Watch as many videos of doing this as you can find before attempting it. There are a few on you tube.
 
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I eventually decided on the Frey as I really wanted the extra battery power and plan on getting the x1 controller for it most likely. Got the Frey EX Advanced with the dual batteries and the lights, fenders, dropper post, and gear sensor. I know the weight of it won't be an issue as I have ridden around an 88lb ebike before and that was ok. It looks like the total wait will probably be around 4 months but its ok if its longer. If it takes until closer to winter I will just have to get some good winter gear to ride in the cold lol.

I will try to remember to come back here after riding it some and give my thoughts on it to help other buyers who are unsure. Will also update on the process until I get the bike.
If you can take the financial hit, air freight will get you your bike a lot faster.
 
Perhaps you know all the below. But maybe there's somebody else lurking that can use this info.

Go to Wattwagons site and read their instructions on sending in your motor for the upgrade. Do those things. Then just order a new motor with the controller and whatever wattage you want. After installing your new motor you can send the old one for conversion. Having a backup motor on the shelf is well worth the money. Changing motors takes about an hour if you are careful and you should be. You will need the proper tools. A crank puller and the big ole safety nut socket as well as spring loaded 'C' clamp pliers and something about the size of a pencil made of steel to drive the 3 motor mount bolts out.

View attachment 85235
This is a crank puller. With the splined type crank you need that little black ( not always black ) piece on the end. A small bolt will do but you can find the puller on lots of sites.

View attachment 85241
Thes sorts of pliers have two actions. One spreads the tips apart ant the other moves the ends like regular pliers. A good pair comes with different sized tips. There is a fairly large C clamp that has to come off before you can take off the safety nut.

View attachment 85242

This is the safety nut socket. The one I have has a 3/8" drive hole but my big ole torque wrench is 1/2" so I have an adapter. The safety nut must be torqued to spec.

View attachment 85243

Finally this is what I use to drive out the motor mount bolts. They are tight and they won't come out any other way. Getting them back in is a trick. It's just a drill bit extension. Lots of different things would work.

Work on the bike while it's upside down. Believe it. When putting the new motor in you must carefully arrange the wires or they will be crushed inappropriately by the motor. The bracket that holds the motor has room, you just have to think about getting the wires to lay flat and not crisscrossed. There are some wires coming out of the motor you won't use. Put them to the side of the bracket away from where you make your connections to the display, brake cutoff wires. With the bike upside down ( blocks under the grips ) you can push down on the motor as you put the bolts back in.

Put the left crank and pedal on first. You'll need it to hold onto while torquing down the safety nut on the right crank spline.

Finally, Watch as many videos of doing this as you can find before attempting it. There are a few on you tube.
Seems like an awful expensive insurance policy and a lot of money to have sitting on a shelf considering the motor is pretty reliable. You also forfeit the warranty on the original motor.
I guess if you absolutely can't be without a bike for a few weeks it's a good way to go, but for me it seems a tad expensive and a bit of a long term commitment.
 
Hey all, took a bit of a spill today on my HT1000. Luckily, I didn't hurt myself beyond a few scrapes but I will need to replace my sidemirror, hand grip, and brake lever. Has anyone had any experience replacing a brake lever for the Magura MT5e? It looks like the ball portion is part of a piece that can be easily taken off using a puncher and replaced. Does anyone know where to find that piece? I haven't had any luck searching online. There's also a cord that goes into the lever and I'm not sure if I'll need to replace that as well. Some limited research I did indicates that I might need to replace that whole part including the cord that runs to the controller.
 

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The boat departure got delayed to this friday so I hope it doesn't get delayed again. I expect once it reaches the LA port it will probably be a week or two before fedex gets it. But not sure how long that takes. Boat should take around two weeks to arrive
 
The boat departure got delayed to this friday so I hope it doesn't get delayed again. I expect once it reaches the LA port it will probably be a week or two before fedex gets it. But not sure how long that takes. Boat should take around two weeks to arrive
How did you find out about the boat getting delayed?
I have an AM1000 that went to shipping Wed the 18th, & am anxiously awaiting its arrival. No idea if it's even gotten out to sea yet.
 
How did you find out about the boat getting delayed?
I have an AM1000 that went to shipping Wed the 18th, & am anxiously awaiting its arrival. No idea if it's even gotten out to sea yet.
They sent me a tracking number that shows the sea freight progress and then the fedex one for once its out of customs. It said delayed sailing until the 20th and then it departed

Its expected to get to port on the 15th and then I don't know how long to get unloaded and through customs.
 
They sent me a tracking number that shows the sea freight progress and then the fedex one for once its out of customs. It said delayed sailing until the 20th and then it departed

Its expected to get to port on the 15th and then I don't know how long to get unloaded and through customs.
Oh ship!
A cargo vessel carrying the AM1000 I ordered, is scheduled to depart tomorrow; expected to arrive at a port in California by the 12th.

(Shorter travel time, or just two estimates for the same trip???)

The ebike was originally scheduled to ship by Oct 16th, so I'm feeling pretty good about it!
 
My tracking updated to the 19th now to arrive at port. I don't get how the boat will take 4 more days to arrive now? Unless that is for the delay to dock but the average time the ships have to wait on anchor is 7-8 days not four.
 
My tracking updated to the 19th now to arrive at port. I don't get how the boat will take 4 more days to arrive now? Unless that is for the delay to dock but the average time the ships have to wait on anchor is 7-8 days not four.
Well, your shipment time estimate is beginning to look better than mine again:

021-09-01 10:45 It is expected to arrive at the port on September 21, 2021 2021-09-01 10:44 Hong Kong, Departured 2021-08-27 16:32 Hong Kong, The ship will depart on August 31, 2021 and is expected to arrive at the port on September 12, 2021 2021-08-27 13:54 SHENZHEN, Shipment departed from facility 2021-08-24 19:07 SHENZHEN, Shipment arrived at facility 2021-08-24 18:42 Shipment information received 2021-08-24 04:36 Shipment information has been sent to FedEx

Still better than if it hadn't shipped until Oct 16th, anyway!?
 
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