Need help changing chain

bikeman242

Active Member
Hello,

My bike, a BH Rebel Lynx 5.5, is a mountain bike with an 11 Speed 1x11 Shimano Deore XT Derailleur with One-Way Clutch, Shimano Cassette 11-46 Tooth.

It came stock with a KMC X11 chain. I went to replace it with a Shimano Dura-Ace/XTR CN-HG901 chain. When I compared the chain lengths, I saw that the Shimano Dura-Ace chain was shorter than the stock KMC X11 chain by a few links.

I put the chain on anyway, and the chain gets stuck when moving from the second lowest gear to the lowest gear (biggest sized cog). It seems like the chain is not long enough to make the jump.

I am wondering if this is a problem that I can fix by adjusting something on the derailleur, or if I just got too short of a chain, and need to buy a different chain.

Thanks
 
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if I just got too short of a chain, and need to buy a different chain

Normally your new chain should have about 136 links or thereabout.

If it is small, then you have to get a new chain. You can always shorten a longer chain but you can't add new links to a shorter chain.

Some of the E-bike specific chains I have got came with 138 links (KMC E10 and Shimano CN-E8000)
 
So upon further research, the stock chain was a KMC X11e with 126 links. The chain I bought only has 116 links. I guess it is too short.

However, the stock KMC chain reached 0.5 wear on my Park chain checker tool after only 500 miles. Hence the need to replace.

So it looks like I need to buy a different chain :(
 
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Chains need to be correct length so best to buy a chain with same number of links or more and remove links to fit.
 
I just used a bike hand $10 chain tool successfully. the Park one is $15.
I made a 138 link chain out of 2 chains. the kmc master links are one time use, so buy extras incase you route the chain wrong the first time. Somebody said connex/whippen has a longer chain available.
My bike has 3x8 spockets, so I got 5000 miles out of my first chain.
 
Inexpensive chain tools tend to flex. And driving pins don't last long when flex is introduced.
A few of the chain manufactures make ebike rated chains that tend to be longer too, if you need it. Will have to visit KMC website to find out differences from a standard chain.....for those of us looking for something to do.
 
Well the KMC website says that the X11e chain should last 4500 miles.

And I only got 500 miles out of it before my park tool chain checker cc3.2 shows 0.5%. And the chain does pull out a bit from the chainring, which I understand implies wear.

Not having any issues with the chain skipping or anything.

Change the chain?
 
I'd wait to 75%. I just bought my park tool, and I rode until 100%. No skipping, no visible wear on tips of sprockets. My 11 to 32 sprocket cluster is about $85, but a 11 to 48 on a MTB is about $300. So waste some chain life to protect that sprocket.
 
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Short life on chains has to include a discussion on maintenance. How often do you clean it and lube it? If you are running in a lot of sand and mud, you should clean and lube every trip out. 10 less links in your new chain? How the hell you got it on the bike is a mystery to me!
 
There is much discussion in this forum about chain wear, its cause and how often to change so as to avoid unnecessary wear to cassettes and sprockets. Please use the search function to explore what people have recommended already, No need to state everything all over again when it is already here for the searching.

 
I just used a bike hand $10 chain tool successfully. the Park one is $15.
I made a 138 link chain out of 2 chains.

Making a longer chain out of two shorter ones is okay for 6/7/8 speed chains, but it is a very bad idea for the narrower chains. The pins of the narrower chains are peened on the ends, and when you push one out and back in, the side plates get distorted...and weakened. If you absolutely had to link two narrow chains together, it should only be done with connecting links (so you would have two in the chain instead of one).
 
Are there any special considerations when shopping for a new chain you should consider if your chainring has narrow-wide teeth?

Not sure if I need to get a chain that is specially suited for the chainring.

Already bought too short of a chain the first time, want to get it right the second time. Planning on getting the Shimano CN-E8000 chain.
 
Making a longer chain out of two shorter ones is okay for 6/7/8 speed chains, but it is a very bad idea for the narrower chains. The pins of the narrower chains are peened on the ends, and when you push one out and back in, the side plates get distorted...and weakened. If you absolutely had to link two narrow chains together, it should only be done with connecting links (so you would have two in the chain instead of one).
I can't imagine putting pushed out pins back in old side plates. Pushing them out widens the hole. I can see it, I didn't even have to measure it. Use a master link, I did. twice.
 
If you don't need largest cog, you can adjust your RD limiter to avoid accidentally shifting to largest cog.
 
Connex Whipperman have 136 link ebike chains. Good stuff. But despite having them I still buy 136L cheap chains at under$10 and change them out when needed. 3 $10 chains last longer than $40-$50 Connex eBike chains. With a proper chain tool it’s easy peasy.
 
Connex Whipperman have 136 link ebike chains. Good stuff. But despite having them I still buy 136L cheap chains at under$10 and change them out when needed. 3 $10 chains last longer than $40-$50 Connex eBike chains. With a proper chain tool it’s easy peasy.

Where do you find $10 136L 11sp chains?
 
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