Can I change derailleurs?

The second hanger is to make an extension for a shorter cage derailleur so it can hit larger lower gears. With a long cage MTB derailleur it would not be needed. Also mountain bike derailleurs normally have a clutch that takes up slack so the chain does not drop in a high gear on a bump. I can't really tell you. You will just need to try it and eyeball it.
 
Thanks Ped
I found out the "B" screw does NOT do anything with this long cage derailleur. There is over 1"+ space when the top boogy wheel is up close to the cassette teeth, when in the 9th gear.
I'll check the spacing when I change over to the new derailleur.
Thanks,
Don
 
Last edited:
Well, the new shifter comes with a new shift cable. So, you will need to thread that through the shift sensor. I like to get a little Lucas CLP oil down the housings first.
 
Thanks Ped
I will add a little oil to the cable when changing over, from the measurements I have taken, this Shimano and Sram X5 shifters
have the same 1x1 clicks for changing gears.
I will test it out completely during the change over.
Tia
 
Chargeride said:
I can't even spell derailyear
Click to expand...
It doesn't matter how you spell it, but you have to say it with a French accent. 😂

Screenshot_20240404-180714_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
Well Guys @ Ped
I changed the derailleur over to the SRAM X 9 sp, and found out the following:
The reason for all the looseness @ popping, with the sloppiness of derailleur arm was because the main frame top wheel housing is breaking, (PLASTIC)material, there is a 1/2" long "U" shaped crack from the center leading out to the edge. Glad I changed over when I did.

As for the change over, the Med cage X5 derailleur fits like a champ, and works with the Shimano shifter and shifts very clean with very little noise. The second hanger is permanently attached to the Shimano OEM derailleur. The only problem I ran into is: I didn't have a alum sleeve for the end end of the cable, Note: a 1/16" pop rivet alum sleeve works just as well.

I am waiting for the 6mm adjustment screw and lock from Sram dealer, the Shimano set up is different in screw size, than Sram.
I'll have to cut the main cable housing length back about 1"+, I'll make the adjustment in length when I have the adjustment screw in hand.
By using hand adjustments, the gear changes are clean and crisp, very little noise, all the way thru the 1st to the 9th gear and back down several times, and I haven't touched any adjustment screws yet, right out of the box.
I gained over 1-1/2" ground clearance from the long cage length, and I haven't adjusted the chain length, still the long cage length.

At this point in time, I am tickled PICK that everything works very well, being the first time I have ever done this type of thing.
I owe a BIG THANK YOU to Ped, and all the other members that commented for the jump start and answering all the questions I will have..

Question: Should adjust the chain length to fit this medium cage length? From the information I have read the proper chain length should be 4 links + 2?
Your thoughts and suggestions......
Tia
 
One way to size a chain is to run it around the chainring and largest cog, add two inches plus the quick link. Feed the derailleur and the inside of the chain stay then add the quick link and pop it onto the chainring. This way it is not under tension when using the quick link.
 
Someone throwed a monkey wrench into the plans.
Well, I have everything tuned for no noise when running in any of the gears, very smooth shifting, only one problem.
I can have the top 7 gears or the bottom 7 gears, I cannot get the last 2 gears on the top or bottom ends. I can hand move the derailleur and can reach and run in all the gears, but when I use the shifter I have only 7 gears total.

I think I know what the problems is, on the Shimano derailleur, there was an extra hanger attached, that is approximately 1" long which screwed to the 386 OEM hanger.
And it possible that the Shimano shifter needs to be changed out to a Sram shifter also, I was hoping to keep the OEM shifter as I like knowing what gear I am in.
And I can not find the proper cable adjusters to fit the Sram derailleur, so I fired up the lathe and made one.
Your thoughts and suggestions...
Tia
 
PedalUma said:
One way to size a chain is to run it around the chainring and largest cog, add two inches plus the quick link. Feed the derailleur and the inside of the chain stay then add the quick link and pop it onto the chainring. This way it is not under tension when using the quick link.
Click to expand...
Ped
Does this make a difference on the length of the cage, ie Med or Long?
Tia, Don
 
Nvreloader said:
Ped
Does this make a difference on the length of the cage, ie Med or Long?
Tia, Don
Click to expand...
Don, A little. Add an extra two links for a long, that is one inch. You can always remove them if it is off a bit, and a little too slack in high gear.
Check me out on Google Maps, just zoom about 35 miles north of the GG Bridge and search for PedalUma eBikes.
Rick
 
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