Can I change derailleurs?

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Ped
I found out the "B" screw does NOT do anything with this long cage derailleur. There is over 1"+ space when the top boogy wheel is up close to the cassette teeth, when in the 9th gear.
I'll check the spacing when I change over to the new derailleur.
Thanks,
Don

 

[Nvreloader]

Ped
When I do the new Sram x5 9sp shifter add on,
do I have to do anything with the OEM shift sensor?
Thanks,
Don

 

[PedalUma]

Well, the new shifter comes with a new shift cable. So, you will need to thread that through the shift sensor. I like to get a little Lucas CLP oil down the housings first.

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Ped
I will add a little oil to the cable when changing over, from the measurements I have taken, this Shimano and Sram X5 shifters
have the same 1x1 clicks for changing gears.
I will test it out completely during the change over.
Tia

 

[Chargeride]

I can't even spell derailyear

 

[PCeBiker]

I can't even spell derailyear

It doesn't matter how you spell it, but you have to say it with a French accent.

 

[PedalUma]

It doesn't matter how you spell it, but you have to say it with a French accent.

View attachment 173543

I did that yesterday on Google Translate and there is a Youtube video. I couldn't past it in.

 

[Nvreloader]

Well Guys @ Ped
I changed the derailleur over to the SRAM X 9 sp, and found out the following:
The reason for all the looseness @ popping, with the sloppiness of derailleur arm was because the main frame top wheel housing is breaking, (PLASTIC)material, there is a 1/2" long "U" shaped crack from the center leading out to the edge. Glad I changed over when I did.

As for the change over, the Med cage X5 derailleur fits like a champ, and works with the Shimano shifter and shifts very clean with very little noise. The second hanger is permanently attached to the Shimano OEM derailleur. The only problem I ran into is: I didn't have a alum sleeve for the end end of the cable, Note: a 1/16" pop rivet alum sleeve works just as well.

I am waiting for the 6mm adjustment screw and lock from Sram dealer, the Shimano set up is different in screw size, than Sram.
I'll have to cut the main cable housing length back about 1"+, I'll make the adjustment in length when I have the adjustment screw in hand.
By using hand adjustments, the gear changes are clean and crisp, very little noise, all the way thru the 1st to the 9th gear and back down several times, and I haven't touched any adjustment screws yet, right out of the box.
I gained over 1-1/2" ground clearance from the long cage length, and I haven't adjusted the chain length, still the long cage length.

At this point in time, I am tickled PICK that everything works very well, being the first time I have ever done this type of thing.
I owe a BIG THANK YOU to Ped, and all the other members that commented for the jump start and answering all the questions I will have..

Question: Should adjust the chain length to fit this medium cage length? From the information I have read the proper chain length should be 4 links + 2?
Your thoughts and suggestions......
Tia

 

[PedalUma]

One way to size a chain is to run it around the chainring and largest cog, add two inches plus the quick link. Feed the derailleur and the inside of the chain stay then add the quick link and pop it onto the chainring. This way it is not under tension when using the quick link.

 

[Nvreloader]

Someone throwed a monkey wrench into the plans.
Well, I have everything tuned for no noise when running in any of the gears, very smooth shifting, only one problem.
I can have the top 7 gears or the bottom 7 gears, I cannot get the last 2 gears on the top or bottom ends. I can hand move the derailleur and can reach and run in all the gears, but when I use the shifter I have only 7 gears total.

I think I know what the problems is, on the Shimano derailleur, there was an extra hanger attached, that is approximately 1" long which screwed to the 386 OEM hanger.
And it possible that the Shimano shifter needs to be changed out to a Sram shifter also, I was hoping to keep the OEM shifter as I like knowing what gear I am in.
And I can not find the proper cable adjusters to fit the Sram derailleur, so I fired up the lathe and made one.
Your thoughts and suggestions...
Tia

 

[Nvreloader]

One way to size a chain is to run it around the chainring and largest cog, add two inches plus the quick link. Feed the derailleur and the inside of the chain stay then add the quick link and pop it onto the chainring. This way it is not under tension when using the quick link.

Ped
Does this make a difference on the length of the cage, ie Med or Long?
Tia, Don

 

[PedalUma]

Ped
Does this make a difference on the length of the cage, ie Med or Long?
Tia, Don

Don, A little. Add an extra two links for a long, that is one inch. You can always remove them if it is off a bit, and a little too slack in high gear.
Check me out on Google Maps, just zoom about 35 miles north of the GG Bridge and search for PedalUma eBikes.
Rick

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Ped
Will do.

 

[PedalUma]

Thanks Ped
Will do.

I just extended the chain length on this one today when I lengthened the boom.

 

[Elyot919]

Guys
I have these derailleurs,
Wart Hog - Rear Derailleur = SRAM X-5 - 9 speed - DNP 13- 34t with a Med cage length.
Juggs - Rear Derailleur = Shimano Alivio - 9 speed - 11- 34t with a Long cage length.

I am beginning to hate this Juggs setup,
There is some thing going on and I can't seem to find the problem, every time I take the Juggs off road/rough rocky trails, I am hearing a loud popping noise coming from the derailleur/cassette area, it doesn't make a difference if I am pedaling or using very lite throttle in the 5-10 mph range.
Sounds like the chain is jumping a tooth/gear.
When I stop every time and check this area out, I can find NOTHING wrong, with anything.
The only difference I can see between these derailleurs is the WH as about 1/4" side to side movement/slop (1st gear) as compared to the Jugg derailleur (1st gear) which has over 1"+ of side movement/slop, of the bottom Boogie wheel, and the difference in cage lengths. All the screws/bolts are tight and nothing seems to be bent or out of place etc.

Will a SRAM X - 5, 9 speed derailleur fit/replace the Shimano Alivio derailleur and work OK?
I have measured the spacing between the cassette gears and it's the same spacing for either brand, with the only difference is the tooth count in 9th gear and cage lengths.
I don't have this problem with the Wart Hog set up and it has over 1200 miles on it compared to 45 miles for the Juggs.
Your thoughts and suggestions........
Tia

If you've got over an inch of slop on that jockey wheel, the derailleur is likely the culprit. Just keep in mind that SRAM and Shimano 9-speed parts aren't cross-compatible with the same shifters. You'd need to move the X-5 shifter over to the Juggs as well to test it out.