My UC Pro has arrived

[loamoaf]

I measure my fat Christini spider at 32.8 mm from the base to the face of the outer ring position, 29.1mm to the face of the spiders' inner ring position (3.7mm thick) but I don't have a Bafang spider to compare. When I lock my caliper to 70.01mm (I can never get it perfect) put one end on the outer ring position of the Christini fat spider, it looks to line up with the centerline of the motor as depicted in the diagram. I did getsome spacers from WickWerks but they're too thick (the ring is too thick, not height-wise) to allow the chain to fully seat on my WT 30T, so unless I remove ~1/3rd of the ring on each of those I'll need to just grab a 32T and use the 30T on a non-assit bike or if the chainline allows on the inner position of the Christini on my 29+ wheelset (don't know if it'll clear the fat tires yet)

@Fast n' Furious depending on the tires you run, squaring out the profile by using a wider rim can prevent the tire lugs from catching your chain while giving you more float on sand/snow and the ability to go a little lower pressure should need it. I was actually discussing this with someone on a fatbike forum as I need to get educated enough to get the right pogies and fit in with the cool riders, and they said going from an 80mm to 100mm Clown Shoes fixed an issue they had with 2XL's in the rear. But of course this doesn't work if it's the tire casing you're not clearing - and that tire is an extreme case.

I learned I'm getting cashed out for unused PTO (thanks WW for dumping on the second half of my summer?) + a starting bonus as I transition to a new role at my current work so this is going to be a very merry christmas indeed! I hope you all are also able to enjoy some holiday good fortune - the only christmas miracle I'm praying for is that WW gets their shipment of motors and everyone gets their bikes hehe

 

[Fast n' Furious]

So I tried digging through Miranda's new site but they don't have their charts on every crank arm page like they used to - but I did find the chart. Note the 'FB' versions are for fatbikes.
View attachment 109118

I ordered 2 pair - a 152mm Q:16 & a 170mm Q:8 FB and they both clear the Christini + Wolftooth 30T on the outer position. I believe the Bafang fat cranks are closest to 55Q: 16 but I could be wrong - from the diagram in Jon's post it looks like the standard Bafang cranks are closest to the Q:8. Unfortunately in my case the snazzy blue cranks I got don't clear my chainstay - the black ones do so by around 2mm so I'm seriously considering ordering another set... ugh. I wish these both would have cleared fine as I'm just trying to go as narrow as safely possible while as short as I can comfortably go, ground clearance and being easier to keep a higher cadence and all that. No idea what size I'd get if a test ride proves to show the black cranks will wind upknocking into the stays under trail riding conditions.

View attachment 109119
View attachment 109120

Yes. Beautiful. 2mm is tight. That's a wide frame! Thanks for lingo I understand.

 

[Jon A]

So I tried digging through Miranda's new site but they don't have their charts on every crank arm page like they used to - but I did find the chart. Note the 'FB' versions are for fatbikes.
View attachment 109118

I ordered 2 pair - a 152mm Q:16 & a 170mm Q:8 FB and they both clear the Christini + Wolftooth 30T on the outer position.

Thanks for posting that! I had tried to make sense of Miranda's site a while back and gave up. I wouldn't mind some shorter cranks, but when the double offset Lekkie cranks I bought didn't clear my frame, I shelved the idea for a while. I might be able to find something off that chart that'll work. The Q factor doesn't bother me so I want more than 2mm clearance.

I measure my fat Christini spider at 32.8 mm from the base to the face of the outer ring position,

Mine's on the bike so I can't measure...but, here's my stock Bafang Fat spider:

That's 32.08mm for those who don't want to bust out the calculator.

 

[loamoaf]

@Jon A oof, the Lekkie bars are not cheap mistake either! I'd suggest order a few Miranda cranks if you're unsure or have multiple bikes. They're like $50 a pair but where it hits you is shipping, the Delta cranks are pretty nice looking and very light so definitely worth using them on future builds too. Their 'Double Diamond' finish is what my2 sets are but I'd love a pearl set. I think we've already established I'm a sucker for bling but what're you gonna do when they're the same price as the regular finish or even cheaper on sale?

For sizing up your cockpit I think the rule is knee pain is due to wrong saddle height or crank length, and hip pain would be wrong saddle width, Q-factor, or riding position, back pain would be riding position, so more like your reach, bar width/shape & height relative to your saddle. I have a big plush, cheap Serfas saddle from Amazon on my HT and the thing is downright bouncy - while soft and comfy a 40mi ride would leave me a little sore in the hips & sit bones. I was told by several people that on longer rides a more firm, properly-sized saddle is preferable and I wanted something that wasn't so tall or heavy, so I grabbed an SQLAb 6OX 2.0 Active after measuring my ass 6 separate times. Their 'Active' saddles have a little swappable elastomer in them and ship with a firm, med, and soft that allow a little flex/damping in the 'wings' of the saddle as you pedal. According to this page on sit bone measurement & saddle selection from them my bones & riding position put me at 14cm so that's what I went with, I just took a piece of cardboard box and peeled one side off, worked perfectly. Seems to pass the sit test at home but I won't really know whether to feel vindicated or regret my purchase until I can actually get out and ride!

Other things to look for is if you're wanting a dropper + suspension post PNW has a 20% site-wide sale going on and their Coast dropper has an adjustable air spring for tuning the firmness. I got a Loam from them with the internal routing and it was pretty easy to set up, not sure with the coast but the cartridge in the Loam has a lifetime warranty, though it doesn't have an air spring in it, it does have an adjustable air cartridge for tweaking the return speed/squish firmness (try to keep up with the technical jargon!) If you don't need the dropper function I think the Suntour option F'nF mentioned or a linkage style like it (Thudbuster, Redshift, KINEKT) would be the way to go. The telescoping spring kind are generally kind of crummy - and heavy.

If you're unsure about getting the handlebar height right, a Ritchey 4-axis is a pretty cheap stem to get you some adjustability as far as effective length & height go. I think one of the things that made the biggest difference for me was some handlebars with more backsweep to them (for commuting/touring, not trail riding). Allowed me to get a nice comfy angle on my wrists while in a little more upright position and helped shorten the reach a little on a frame that I think was just a bit too large for comfort. I dated a girl who rode a steel frame fixed-gear with no brakes everywhere, thing was somehow too tall yet too cramped for me to ride comfortably or even what I felt was safely - coming to a stop and getting on and off it was like learning to ride a bike all over again. She lived in a neighborhood with cobblestone roads too so it was nothing short of domestic abuse on my boys when I took it for a ride. Never again!

All this talk about ergonomics has me feeling bad for the people riding around on the heavy scrambler-style ebikes. They do look happy though!

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Yes, if you want to run 5" tires you want a 190/197 hub. To be clear, I was saying the cassette stays in the same place when converting from 190 to 197, or from 170 to 177. Obviously 197 places the cassette 10mm farther out than 177 as shown in the previous chart.


Uhm, no. I'm not going to be sure enough to tell people parts will fit based upon a picture of....different parts. The fat spiders have a lot more offset and the fat cranks have a lot of clearance built into them. If you look closely at Bafang's drawings it shows a likely interference:

View attachment 109109

When you include the Christini fat spider in that, its smaller bolt circle makes interference even more likely. I'm not saying there's zero chance the combo would fit, but I'm certainly not going to tell people it will.

And no, the standard cranks with 100% certainty will not fit my frame. They obviously will fit Deacon's, but that frame won't clear a 5" tire. I really doubt you find a frame that can clear a tire of that size that doesn't need the fat cranks. That's what they're for.

You lost me with the chaff. What "Standard cranks"? Bafangs? WW's? Miranda's? What "fat cranks"? Bafangs, etc/
What "my frame"? You have a Titanium Cross Tour?
You know exactly how, again, that "They obviously will fit Deacon's, but that frame won't clear a 5" tire" ?
"I really doubt you find a frame that can clear a tire of that size that doesn't need the fat cranks". No kidding? Wow!
But, who's "fat cranks" are "the fat cranks" again.
We're talking about WW's and you're posting drafts of Bafang's.
"I'm not saying there's zero chance the combo would fit, but I'm certainly not going to tell people it will". WTF does that mean?
"When you include the Christini fat spider in that, its smaller bolt circle makes interference even more likely"
It does not. Not on the topic bikes, our WW 197mm hardtails.
You realize your statement is now on google under,"Christini fat spider interference". Makes perfect sense if you don't think about it.
Happy Holidays

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Thanks for posting that! I had tried to make sense of Miranda's site a while back and gave up. I wouldn't mind some shorter cranks, but when the double offset Lekkie cranks I bought didn't clear my frame, I shelved the idea for a while. I might be able to find something off that chart that'll work. The Q factor doesn't bother me so I want more than 2mm clearance.

Mine's on the bike so I can't measure...but, here's my stock Bafang Fat spider:

View attachment 109126


That's 32.08mm for those who don't want to bust out the calculator.

Christini say's their "Bafang Ultra Mid Drive Boost Chainring Adapter" is "18mm distance from base to inside of chainring."

@Jon A oof, the Lekkie bars are not cheap mistake either! I'd suggest order a few Miranda cranks if you're unsure or have multiple bikes. They're like $50 a pair but where it hits you is shipping, the Delta cranks are pretty nice looking and very light so definitely worth using them on future builds too. Their 'Double Diamond' finish is what my2 sets are but I'd love a pearl set. I think we've already established I'm a sucker for bling but what're you gonna do when they're the same price as the regular finish or even cheaper on sale?

For sizing up your cockpit I think the rule is knee pain is due to wrong saddle height or crank length, and hip pain would be wrong saddle width, Q-factor, or riding position, back pain would be riding position, so more like your reach, bar width/shape & height relative to your saddle. I have a big plush, cheap Serfas saddle from Amazon on my HT and the thing is downright bouncy - while soft and comfy a 40mi ride would leave me a little sore in the hips & sit bones. I was told by several people that on longer rides a more firm, properly-sized saddle is preferable and I wanted something that wasn't so tall or heavy, so I grabbed an SQLAb 6OX 2.0 Active after measuring my ass 6 separate times. Their 'Active' saddles have a little swappable elastomer in them and ship with a firm, med, and soft that allow a little flex/damping in the 'wings' of the saddle as you pedal. According to this page on sit bone measurement & saddle selection from them my bones & riding position put me at 14cm so that's what I went with, I just took a piece of cardboard box and peeled one side off, worked perfectly. Seems to pass the sit test at home but I won't really know whether to feel vindicated or regret my purchase until I can actually get out and ride!

Other things to look for is if you're wanting a dropper + suspension post PNW has a 20% site-wide sale going on and their Coast dropper has an adjustable air spring for tuning the firmness. I got a Loam from them with the internal routing and it was pretty easy to set up, not sure with the coast but the cartridge in the Loam has a lifetime warranty, though it doesn't have an air spring in it, it does have an adjustable air cartridge for tweaking the return speed/squish firmness (try to keep up with the technical jargon!) If you don't need the dropper function I think the Suntour option F'nF mentioned or a linkage style like it (Thudbuster, Redshift, KINEKT) would be the way to go. The telescoping spring kind are generally kind of crummy - and heavy.

If you're unsure about getting the handlebar height right, a Ritchey 4-axis is a pretty cheap stem to get you some adjustability as far as effective length & height go. I think one of the things that made the biggest difference for me was some handlebars with more backsweep to them (for commuting/touring, not trail riding). Allowed me to get a nice comfy angle on my wrists while in a little more upright position and helped shorten the reach a little on a frame that I think was just a bit too large for comfort. I dated a girl who rode a steel frame fixed-gear with no brakes everywhere, thing was somehow too tall yet too cramped for me to ride comfortably or even what I felt was safely - coming to a stop and getting on and off it was like learning to ride a bike all over again. She lived in a neighborhood with cobblestone roads too so it was nothing short of domestic abuse on my boys when I took it for a ride. Never again!

All this talk about ergonomics has me feeling bad for the people riding around on the heavy scrambler-style ebikes. They do look happy though!
View attachment 109151

Great tip, that Ritchey 4-axis.
The KINEKT (once dialed in) is really nice, the difference is huge, but it's heavy. Their carbon tube provides little relief.
As I've said, I have spare spring sizes if someone needs them - ping me.
In my stumbling along, your analysis - in general - matches my trial and error understandings.
I ordered a set of 660mm Jones Butted 2.5" H Loop Bars to test out. Pretty sure the rise is too much for my Cross Tour, on my Ltd's frame suddenly the bike feels much larger. The flatter version might be perfect for the CT, and they come in Titanium - my 'bling bling'.
Saddle-wise, I like my Selle Anatomica - can't wait to try the Brooks!
Took forever to break in. Selle's service was less than stellar.
I ordered carbon rails - that came deformed/ uneven. Even properly torqued to recommendations, they failed after a few hundred miles - plus, they restricted for/ aft alignment by a lot. I'm out of the saddle on bumps and rough surfaces, so probably just wrong for a commuter, my bad, crunch. Shattered laterally over 1.5", going forward from the clamp. Quick tip: Never reach under saddle and run fingers over suspected shattered carbon fiber.
The stainless tube rails do work great - so far.
That guy's eye-piece on the helmet is priceless, but if I can't carry it up a flight of stairs it's too heavy.
I went with the lightest fork, a cassette and opt for alloy bars (or ti) over steel.
I'd go Nexties but I'm concerned about carbon's frailty (and stab wounds). Adding the Archer Dx1 was a couple-hundred-gram whim, but I anticipate my CT will be 62lbish - rolling.
The latest Frey. 5 months back I was ready to buy, I mean with card in hand, but for that answer to "what's the weight" - and I got it. 75lbs entry. Add the big battery = 90lbs.

I measure my fat Christini spider at 32.8 mm from the base to the face of the outer ring position, 29.1mm to the face of the spiders' inner ring position (3.7mm thick) but I don't have a Bafang spider to compare. When I lock my caliper to 70.01mm (I can never get it perfect) put one end on the outer ring position of the Christini fat spider, it looks to line up with the centerline of the motor as depicted in the diagram. I did getsome spacers from WickWerks but they're too thick (the ring is too thick, not height-wise) to allow the chain to fully seat on my WT 30T, so unless I remove ~1/3rd of the ring on each of those I'll need to just grab a 32T and use the 30T on a non-assit bike or if the chainline allows on the inner position of the Christini on my 29+ wheelset (don't know if it'll clear the fat tires yet)

@Fast n' Furious depending on the tires you run, squaring out the profile by using a wider rim can prevent the tire lugs from catching your chain while giving you more float on sand/snow and the ability to go a little lower pressure should need it. I was actually discussing this with someone on a fatbike forum as I need to get educated enough to get the right pogies and fit in with the cool riders, and they said going from an 80mm to 100mm Clown Shoes fixed an issue they had with 2XL's in the rear. But of course this doesn't work if it's the tire casing you're not clearing - and that tire is an extreme case.

I learned I'm getting cashed out for unused PTO (thanks WW for dumping on the second half of my summer?) + a starting bonus as I transition to a new role at my current work so this is going to be a very merry christmas indeed! I hope you all are also able to enjoy some holiday good fortune - the only christmas miracle I'm praying for is that WW gets their shipment of motors and everyone gets their bikes hehe

Yes. Now I have the specs. The "boost" Christini being 18mm, FB being 32 x 33mm. From what you (29mm x 32mm) and Jon (32mm) post, they are the same offsets.
I stand corrected (Jon).
You read'n my mind? I'm set on 4.5"s for sand - low pressure, sidewall gets fatter = rub-a-dub-dub. Never thought of 'squaring off'. Makes sense. What about weight?
I was thinking "What will I have to change when I take bike on coastal fishing trips? Wheelset. Check. No worries". I was slick, going the CT x 3" 'standard size' (like the World Record Holder Cross Tour) .
Now it's looking change the spider as well - and with that, I may require spacing the cassette outward/ mods to the spacers - whew - oh, and different cranks of course when the Q- factor goes haywire, but I'll be on sand not pedaling cadence long distance - all I wanted was a Pepsi (and to yank another fat halibut outta the April - May surf).
I installed the Jones bars - whoa - on my test bike (Ltd). Old bars were 640mm, these 660mm.
Whoa, what a difference 20mm makes! The bike looks and feels much larger.
Under a pound and the layout is great for utility sake, the 22.2mm area is profuse. My cockpit looks barren.
Christmas 'bike' shopping is done, but my rides convinced me flat bars of this design are what I want on my CT and my next buy for January.
-
(Last minute rulebreaker), I scored a D1x Trail micro-shift mod for price I couldn't refuse. Looks like a PIA to set up on the (Black Wraith) Ltd. Selling bike when I get CT balanced and reliable - huge reason I insist on quick available parts. CT must first go, then be show.
Yanking the Ltd's shift cable could be a 'big stupid' - having to put it back - and the stock shimano works perfectly. I cringe at fixing things not (yet) broken, only to find a buyer resents "modifications" (and I'm an 'okay, two hours to put it back threaded into the frame, under the battery', happy guy).
-
Your positive input's inspiring. Hard to keep our joy, waiting, waiting. I'm kind of ancient, thinking 'sure and steady, stick with the plan can-do'.
Just a mindset, of little value to others, I discovered 'winning' by 'feeling good' in my head, not sweating failures; being 'as good as I can be'; not 'as good or as bad as my last choice', no matter the end consequence worked best for me - to feel good - not be successful.
It's not metaphysical. Feeling positive attracts like kind and vice versa, negative. Mia culpa.
So, it's the motors, etc. If it can happen, the company we've chosen to make it so will do just that ... but I confess I anticipated hell breaking loose on the trade scene and sure 'nuff, we're witnessing a firm realignment of Western/ Eastern Bloc/ trade sources/ partners and loyalties are changing. It's a paradigm shift.
Not sure what "I learned I'm getting cashed out for unused PTO (thanks WW for dumping on the second half of my summer?)" means, but I agree with your Christmas 'wish'. I know even cynicism is humor, and irony brings a smile - if (as a boxer I once knew said "you got your mind right"). lol
Largely, I see WW buyers (and commenters on these forums) as people making knowledgeable choices and think buyers made the best choice.
The reason Winter's Fall is 'a time of peace' goes back a bit - to necessity I dare say. It's in every culture.
So, I wish the feeling of peace, harmony with the flow knowing doing the right thing is better than succeeding regardless of outcome - lest we completely condemn ourselves to 'fools in our own minds'. lol. We're not. It just got funky out there and the trade (stuff) hit the fan.

Happy Holidays and a great 2022 to all!

Fn'F












Thanks for that fastener source.

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Christini say's their "Bafang Ultra Mid Drive Boost Chainring Adapter" is "18mm distance from base to inside of chainring."

Great tip, that Ritchey 4-axis.
The KINEKT (once dialed in) is really nice, the difference is huge, but it's heavy. Their carbon tube provides little relief.
As I've said, I have spare spring sizes if someone needs them - ping me.
In my stumbling along, your analysis - in general - matches my trial and error understandings.
I ordered a set of 660mm Jones Butted 2.5" H Loop Bars to test out. Pretty sure the rise is too much for my Cross Tour, on my Ltd's frame suddenly the bike feels much larger. The flatter version might be perfect for the CT, and they come in Titanium - my 'bling bling'.
Saddle-wise, I like my Selle Anatomica - can't wait to try the Brooks!
Took forever to break in. Selle's service was less than stellar.
I ordered carbon rails - that came deformed/ uneven. Even properly torqued to recommendations, they failed after a few hundred miles - plus, they restricted for/ aft alignment by a lot. I'm out of the saddle on bumps and rough surfaces, so probably just wrong for a commuter, my bad, crunch. Shattered laterally over 1.5", going forward from the clamp. Quick tip: Never reach under saddle and run fingers over suspected shattered carbon fiber.
The stainless tube rails do work great - so far.
That guy's eye-piece on the helmet is priceless, but if I can't carry it up a flight of stairs it's too heavy.
I went with the lightest fork, a cassette and opt for alloy bars (or ti) over steel.
I'd go Nexties but I'm concerned about carbon's frailty (and stab wounds). Adding the Archer Dx1 was a couple-hundred-gram whim, but I anticipate my CT will be 62lbish - rolling.
The latest Frey. 5 months back I was ready to buy, I mean with card in hand, but for that answer to "what's the weight" - and I got it. 75lbs entry. Add the big battery = 90lbs.

Yes. Now I have the specs. The "boost" Christini being 18mm, FB being 32 x 33mm. From what you (29mm x 32mm) and Jon (32mm) post, they are the same offsets.
I stand corrected (Jon).
You read'n my mind? I'm set on 4.5"s for sand - low pressure, sidewall gets fatter = rub-a-dub-dub. Never thought of 'squaring off'. Makes sense. What about weight?
I was thinking "What will I have to change when I take bike on coastal fishing trips? Wheelset. Check. No worries". I was slick, going the CT x 3" 'standard size' (like the World Record Holder Cross Tour) .
Now it's looking change the spider as well - and with that, I may require spacing the cassette outward/ mods to the spacers - whew - oh, and different cranks of course when the Q- factor goes haywire, but I'll be on sand not pedaling cadence long distance - all I wanted was a Pepsi (and to yank another fat halibut outta the April - May surf).
I installed the Jones bars - whoa - on my test bike (Ltd). Old bars were 640mm, these 660mm.
Whoa, what a difference 20mm makes! The bike looks and feels much larger.
Under a pound and the layout is great for utility sake, the 22.2mm area is profuse. My cockpit looks barren.
Christmas 'bike' shopping is done, but my rides convinced me flat bars of this design are what I want on my CT and my next buy for January.
-
(Last minute rulebreaker), I scored a D1x Trail micro-shift mod for price I couldn't refuse. Looks like a PIA to set up on the (Black Wraith) Ltd. Selling bike when I get CT balanced and reliable - huge reason I insist on quick available parts. CT must first go, then be show.
Yanking the Ltd's shift cable could be a 'big stupid' - having to put it back - and the stock shimano works perfectly. I cringe at fixing things not (yet) broken, only to find a buyer resents "modifications" (and I'm an 'okay, two hours to put it back threaded into the frame, under the battery', happy guy).
-
Your positive input's inspiring. Hard to keep our joy, waiting, waiting. I'm kind of ancient, thinking 'sure and steady, stick with the plan can-do'.
Just a mindset, of little value to others, I discovered 'winning' by 'feeling good' in my head, not sweating failures; being 'as good as I can be'; not 'as good or as bad as my last choice', no matter the gravity worked best for me to feel good - not be successful.
It's not metaphysical. Positive energy attracts like kind and vice versa, negative. Mia culpa.
So, it's the motors, etc. If it can happen, I've who I've chosen to make it so ... but I confess I anticipated hell breaking loose on the trade scene. We're witnessing a firm realignment of Western/ Eastern Bloc and trade sources/ partners/ loyalties are changing. It's a paradigm shift.
Not sure what "I learned I'm getting cashed out for unused PTO (thanks WW for dumping on the second half of my summer?)" means, but I agree with your Christmas 'wish' and know even cynicism is humor, and irony brings a smile - if (as a boxer I once knew said "you got your mind right"). lol
Largely, I see WW buyers (and commenters on these forums) as people making knowledgeable choices and think buyers made the best choice.
The reason Winter's Fall is 'a time of peace' goes back a bit - to necessity I dare say. It's in every culture.
So, I wish the feeling of peace, harmony in the flow knowing doing the right thing is better than succeeding regardless of outcome - lest we completely condemn ourselves to 'fools in our own minds'. lol. We're not. It just got funky out there and the trade (stuff) hit the fan.

Happy Holidays and a great 2022 to all!












Thanks for that fastener source.

My head hurts after trying to read all this

 

[Deacon Blues]

My new 48t front chain ring finally arrived.
Good news: I get to put the new chain ring on my bike tomorrow
Bad news: The forecast is for snow this evening.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

My head hurts after trying to read all this

My bad. No pictures n' all.
I gotta try harder !!!
Happy headaches and a grand new year!

 

[Deacon Blues]

Three or four days ago I rode my WW UC Pro on a very slow seniors group ride. How slow was it? I couldn't ride with the power on...at any level. If I did, it would have been only a matter of time until I ran into the rider in front of me.
So, I rode with the power off on the flat sections. The end result was a sore knee the next day. Damn you, arthritics.
I learned a lesson-don't ride my WW on slow rides. It's like driving a Hellcat Dodge powered car in a slow moving parade.

I went on another seniors ride yesterday. Not as slow as the previous ride, but still on the slow side. To compensate, I rode my Cannondale Lefty 3 gravel ebike, which only weighs 39 pounds and can be ridden on these slow rides with the power off.

On the way to the meeting place for the start of the ride (about 6 miles) I kept on thinking, "Is the power on?" while riding.
It was on.
In the past this question would never have entered my head. The Bosch gen 4 motor puts out plenty of power and my bike (which is de-restricted) never left me wanting more in the past.

That was before the WW UC Pro.
The power difference between the Bosch gen 4 and the Bafang Ultra motor is unbelievable.
To be honest, it's too much. Once I get my password to adjust the power levels I plan on 'toning' down the output.

An analogy would be driving a Honda Civic and for spirited weekends driving your V8 Mustang. Then, a friend lets you drive his 700+ hp SRT Hellcat.

The WW UC Pro is the SRT Hellcat of ebikes and things will never be the same for me.

 

[vincent]

Your bike has the archon controller or stock? How many watts
90% sure on mine I could easily do 6-8 miles an hour on level one…
How slow were you guys going?

Mine has archon however pushkar/Innotrace sets it for 1000 watt

 

[Deacon Blues]

The lead rider is painfully slow-especially on the hills. I seldom ride with him, but this time the other leader, who rides an ebike, wasn't there.
Mine UC Pro came with the max power setup. With a bit of effort I can hit 900 watts in level 1, and as I mentioned in a previous post, I hit 1700 watts in level 4 going up a steep hill.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

The lead rider is painfully slow-especially on the hills. I seldom ride with him, but this time the other leader, who rides an ebike, wasn't there.
Mine UC Pro came with the max power setup. With a bit of effort I can hit 900 watts in level 1, and as I mentioned in a previous post, I hit 1700 watts in level 4 going up a steep hill.

Sneaky grip-twist throttle comes in handy, applying low watts sans TS input, but might get you hated on by peddlers on hills with that honkin' battery visible. It must be lonely at the top, doomed to ride like the wind?
Perhaps splashing water on your face to feign perspiration? Maybe install some fat panniers, offer to carry the brunch? LOL.
That 48t should perk things up.
Regards and Happy Holidays!

Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

The new 48t ring in on, but swap took way longer than I thought it would.
Easy 5 bolt off, swap rings, and 5 bolt on? Nope.
Because the chain ring is a lot thinner than the 42t Bafang ring I couldn't use the 5 nut/bolts to attach the ring. They were too thick and wouldn't tighten.
I ended up visiting the three bike stores in my small town to see if I could purchase a set of thinner nut/bolts. Luckily the third shop I went to had them.
Even then, I had to put a thin washer between the spider and the chain ring to be able to fully tighten the nuts.

Now I'm waiting for this damn snow to go away, so I can go for a test ride.

 

[loamoaf]

The WW UC Pro is the SRT Hellcat of ebikes and things will never be the same for me.

Dang, I was hoping more like a Rivian R1T! Speaking of... I really need something with a little more ground clearance and hauling capacity than I have and want an EV, but there are so few options with 400 mile range and I'm scared to get stuck with something that's going to be incredibly dated in just a few short years... does leasing even make sense financially?

I had a similar issue with the chainrings from Deckas as well - had to order a shorter set of bolts. Luckily no washers needed but I'm still kind of bummed about the situation with the SS Wolftooth only playing well with inboard mounting

My Nextie fat rims had an interesting little hiccup in their shipping, apprently they've left on a flight twice and are still in the air. Wasn't this difficult last time they shipped me rims! @Fast n' Furious I wouldn't worry about the carbon rims' strength especially if you're not riding on trails. Rim protector inserts can stop damage from impacts but I really wish Tannus has a tubeless fat tire armor - currently they only have it for tubes but fat tire going tubeless is the best way to go. It's really a matter of 'is it worth it to you' - and yeah carbon splinters are just as bad as fiberglass shards. I know carbon saddle rails are oval instead or round and some seatposts state specifically not to use them with carbon rails. I was looking at I think Fizik saddles before I grabbed the SQLab - or maybe these were other SQLab models I was looking at where titanium or carbon rails were offered, and I wasn't so sure about carbon rails. I have a lot of faith in the material but I don't like splinters and I really don't like the idea of carbon splinters so close to my boys.

I'd love to go riding on some sand dunes but... it's so coarse and grinding I'd be scared for every mocing part of my bike. These guys looks like they're having a lot of fun riding on sand in Peru

I ordered my 29s with a solid rim bed and extra layup and they came out to 498g & 501g for just the rim. They've got some videos of them slamming the rims in a big... bike rim guillotine? to show the strength. LightBicycle is another carbon rim builder that has a little bit flashier wastern-oriented marketing & support, but plenty of positive ride reports from customers & the bike rim torture dungeon video we good enough for me. built up (before tires) front wheel is 960.1g & rear is 1180g - steel freehub will never gouge

I have tubed Tannus armor in the 29's so I opted for the lightes tubes I could find - there's several TPU tube options and I'm pretty sure they feel like the same material used for latex-free condoms. Super light and pretty compact too so they don't take up as much space in an emergency tool kit. They take a specific kind of patch though and I think the way it works is that it's better to replace & then repair the damaged one at home. Idk I got the armor so I don't have to worry about it, but for the fatties it's Stan's Race Sealant and some Huck Norris inserts Pole Bikes sent for free with the tires I got from them

 

[Deacon Blues]

Instead of using a SRT Hellcat as a comparison I should have used a Tesla S Plaid.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm liking the Hellcat analogy - but thinking this '67 427 Cobra daily driver (look Ma, no headrests!) puts a whoppin' on MoPar - if you can tame that big blocks umph w/ driving skills.
He's not even trying. C-427 owners used to have a joke about pinning a $100 bill to the dash. After takeoff it was yours if you could grab it in the next 1/4 mile. Never heard of a winner.
This one - a replica body* - and the Cobra won w/ an 11.9. Best time ever is 10.957 at 127mph. Ooh La La!!!
Overhead view of slaughter: Cobra warms up has dinner
Drivers view: Cobra dusts Hellcat
*Just the aluminum (fat-flaired A.C.E.) body of that car is worth more than $1 million. Fiberglass race n' wreck body is $10 grand.
-
Riding along yesterday, e-biking on San Diego Downtown streets I pulled up behind, then next to and checked out a McLaren 570S.
Through the illegally dark, tinted windows I got the driver's attention and rolled my finger in the air - universal language to those in my old school club, possessing highly dangerous performance potential - to get him to 'wind-it-up' for me, "Let's hear it"? But he sat there, all catalytic converter strangled, gargling like a dang 6cyl Toyota with a crappy auto-parts store muffler - wrapped in a lowcut Givenchy dress.
-
Couple things I'm wondering about, if you would.
Is that cassette steel, aluminum, or mixed and what's the gear range?
Is the Derailleur long/ short cage?
All 12 gears worked out now?

Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

I don't know for sure, but I suspect the cassette is aluminum. I also don't know if it's a long or short cage.
It's a 11 speed (11-42) cassette.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm liking the Hellcat analogy - but thinking this '67 427 Cobra daily driver (look Ma, no headrests!) puts a whoppin' on MoPar - if you can tame that big blocks umph w/ driving skills.
He's not even trying. C-427 owners used to have a joke about pinning a $100 bill to the dash. After takeoff it was yours if you could grab it in the next 1/4 mile. Never heard of a winner.
This one - a replica body* - and the Cobra won w/ an 11.9. Best time ever is 10.957 at 127mph. Ooh La La!!!
Overhead view of slaughter: Cobra warms up has dinner
Drivers view: Cobra dusts Hellcat
*Just the aluminum (fat-flaired A.C.E.) body of that car is worth more than $1 million. Fiberglass race body is $5 grand.
-
Riding along yesterday, on San Diego Downtown streets I pulled up behind, then next to and checked out a McLaren.
Through the illegally dark, tinted windows I got the driver's attention and rolled my finger in the air - universal language to those possessing highly dangerous performance potential - to get him to 'wind-it-up' for me, "Let's hear it"?
But he sat there, all catalytic converter strangled, gargling like a dang 6cyl Toyota with a crappy muffler - wrapped in a lowcut Givenchy dress.
-
Couple things I'm wondering about, if you would.
Is that cassette steel, aluminum, or mixed and what's the gear range?
Is the Derailleur long/ short cage?
All 12 gears worked out now?

Dang, I was hoping more like a Rivian R1T! Speaking of... I really need something with a little more ground clearance and hauling capacity than I have and want an EV, but there are so few options with 400 mile range and I'm scared to get stuck with something that's going to be incredibly dated in just a few short years... does leasing even make sense financially?

I had a similar issue with the chainrings from Deckas as well - had to order a shorter set of bolts. Luckily no washers needed but I'm still kind of bummed about the situation with the SS Wolftooth only playing well with inboard mounting

My Nextie fat rims had an interesting little hiccup in their shipping, apprently they've left on a flight twice and are still in the air. Wasn't this difficult last time they shipped me rims! @Fast n' Furious I wouldn't worry about the carbon rims' strength especially if you're not riding on trails. Rim protector inserts can stop damage from impacts but I really wish Tannus has a tubeless fat tire armor - currently they only have it for tubes but fat tire going tubeless is the best way to go. It's really a matter of 'is it worth it to you' - and yeah carbon splinters are just as bad as fiberglass shards. I know carbon saddle rails are oval instead or round and some seatposts state specifically not to use them with carbon rails. I was looking at I think Fizik saddles before I grabbed the SQLab - or maybe these were other SQLab models I was looking at where titanium or carbon rails were offered, and I wasn't so sure about carbon rails. I have a lot of faith in the material but I don't like splinters and I really don't like the idea of carbon splinters so close to my boys.

I'd love to go riding on some sand dunes but... it's so coarse and grinding I'd be scared for every mocing part of my bike. These guys looks like they're having a lot of fun riding on sand in Peru

I ordered my 29s with a solid rim bed and extra layup and they came out to 498g & 501g for just the rim. They've got some videos of them slamming the rims in a big... bike rim guillotine? to show the strength. LightBicycle is another carbon rim builder that has a little bit flashier wastern-oriented marketing & support, but plenty of positive ride reports from customers & the bike rim torture dungeon video we good enough for me. built up (before tires) front wheel is 960.1g & rear is 1180g - steel freehub will never gouge
View attachment 109722

I have tubed Tannus armor in the 29's so I opted for the lightes tubes I could find - there's several TPU tube options and I'm pretty sure they feel like the same material used for latex-free condoms. Super light and pretty compact too so they don't take up as much space in an emergency tool kit. They take a specific kind of patch though and I think the way it works is that it's better to replace & then repair the damaged one at home. Idk I got the armor so I don't have to worry about it, but for the fatties it's Stan's Race Sealant and some Huck Norris inserts Pole Bikes sent for free with the tires I got from them
View attachment 109723

Beautiful, balanced setup. Ultralight tube 100% offsets the Tannus 150gms. Unaware, I'd decided 'no' about adding 300gms.
Changing that on my upcoming Watt Wagons Chat shouldn't be difficult.
I'd sooner buy what's available and upgrade later than wait for months for what may not be, so I'm very flexible about this build - within my parameters.
Deacon's 11 - 42 x 48t gearing is exactly what I anticipated. Now I'm looking (from the top down) at the wireless derailleurs available.
I picked up an Archer D1x Trail to test on another bike - so I can use most types - but I do resent more clutter on my Ti frame, so the SRAM e-tap becomes more interesting - though perhaps overpriced? A grand isn't unreasonable for top notch e-shift derailleur that will work, but I have a nagging feeling I'm setting myself up for 'now buy SRAM or scram' syndrome - with a 'Buy USA' when I can 'opensource' mindset - without an assurance it will be any better or even work for this application.
-
How much of a weight savings do you anticipate w/ carbon wheelsets?
-
Love to see photo's of your machine.
Can't wait for Deacon to post more.

Fn'F

 

[mschwett]

,,,
This one - a replica body* - and the Cobra won w/ an 11.9. Best time ever is 10.957 at 127mph. Ooh La La!!!
Overhead view of slaughter: Cobra warms up has dinner
Drivers view: Cobra dusts Hellcat
*Just the aluminum (fat-flaired A.C.E.) body of that car is worth more than $1 million. Fiberglass race body is $5 grand.
-
Riding along yesterday, on San Diego Downtown streets I pulled up behind, then next to and checked out a McLaren.
Through the illegally dark, tinted windows I got the driver's attention and rolled my finger in the air - universal language to those possessing highly dangerous performance potential - to get him to 'wind-it-up' for me, "Let's hear it"?
But he sat there, all catalytic converter strangled, gargling like a dang 6cyl Toyota with a crappy muffler - wrapped in a lowcut Givenchy dress.

except that any mcclaren would smoke that 11.9 second cobra (nearly everything in the last 20 years is <11 seconds, and some way less) while being perfectly street legal and not belching a ton of s*it into the air.... perhaps he just didn't feel like entertaining you on public streets.