My UC Pro has arrived

loamoaf said:
Really makes me wish my fat rims & X1 were here so I could go carving it up on the studded fatties!
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Awe man, you're missing out! I'm thinking of seeing how far I can make it up Olallie tomorrow. Should be fun!

loamoaf said:
I'm on the verge of ordering an ICAN SN04 and building a regular frameset that can fit both of my wheelsets so I'm not married to the motor & battery every time I want to ride, but I really should wait for the new year since work will reimburse me up to a certain amount for 'fitness, health, and recreation' purchases per year. I have such a weak will when it comes to resisting fun though... within reason!
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I love my SN04! One fly in the ointment of that plan is that it does not have nearly as much tire clearance as the E06 so you'd be leaving a little bit of capability on the table sticking to tires that will fit the SN04. I was originally planning to do the same thing before deciding to go all out with the Johnny 5's for the E06. That proved to be a good choice though, as I was able to let my son ride the SN04 yesterday with its Wrathchildren while I rode the E06. Still a pretty capable setup--through some moderate depth powder I couldn't keep up with him on the E06 (with the motor shut off, of course).
 
@Jon A my rims actually landed stateside on the 27th! USPS shows estimated arrival the 3rd. I build up my own rims but have the LBS destress & true them, saves me a good bit of money and turn around is much quicker, plus I get back a perfect wheel. That's a bummer about the SN04 though, I'd want the frame to be able to fit the 2XL's & 29x3's for summer but after a little reading it sounds like 4.8 on a 90mm rim is too wide for the rear. There's also the issue of weight - 2500g for the SN04 without a shock, or 1140g for a HT Nextie carbon fat frame. As for the Olallie trail... it may be nice and sunny but it's cold right now, 16° before windchill at Mt Washington! I found a small little trail network right by my place that would be a perfect little testing ground to make sure I'm all set to go before I head out to a real trail, but I think Olallie may be the first big one for me.
 
loamoaf said:
Looks like the Christini is the way to go. Chainring inside the spider for 177mm, outside for 197mm. The way the Wolftooth mounts on my spider it's looking like I may have to grab little spacers to get it on the outside of the spider with clearance. It has offsets built into the chainring for mounting inside, or placing a guard on the outside, but it needs spacers on the other side - I wish it was symmetrical and had offsets on both, oh well. Can't just flip it because the dropstop tooth profile is direction. The Christini fat spider + 30T stainless steel ring weigh 186g. Gap with the built-in standoffs facing measured at 1.75mm, SRAM EX-1chain (10-spd width) clears it fine, so an 11-spd should as well. You need the long Wolftooth bolts to engage enough threads on the chainring, any longer chainring bolts with M8 x 0.75P threads.

I will agree with Fn'F on this one - for your max speed you'll want to max out the size on your chainring so you canhave a 13T or larger smallest cog. The different derailleur cage (or M8100 derailleur) would also help getting more wrap on the smallest. Think about this, if you are hitting 200Nm that's like Honda Civic torque. Is it realistic to expect a little 6-7 teeth of engagement on a cog to handle that without protesting a little bit? Detuning the motor is also probably smart. More range, more work out, live longer to ride your Watt Wagon!

View attachment 107189View attachment 107186View attachment 107187View attachment 107188
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(Belated) SUPER POST Award! Only photo shot missing is 'mounted on the outside, side view'.
Spacers (of various sizes) can be made to order (just need a cad cam or suitable digital plans), but to be less than $5 each (USA Made), probably need to order 1000.
The Woof n' Toot'n gear (now 198.75 offset) fits? Which, your 5th or 6th (largest) gear is dominant?
But dang. You have a 10sp (you devil, you), so you get it re: tooth count.
And you crushed the jackpot question: It's about caution at this (200Nm) level, not seeing 'what she'll take' (Hi Ho, Silver ... Away!), regardless of the 'mask' - and as a genetically disposed indigene savage, that Tonto shite (in Spanish 'Tonto' means "Stupid") chaps the red part a' my arse, but so did my new seat so I'm pretty much over it.
Yes, we might even live longer - stepping up to this machine, aware it is a superbike, quite capable of destroying itself and the rider that [fill in your fav 'getcha killed' screw-up here] is worth pondering and such sound advice

A pure shame, no narrow wide (workable) 48t steel rings for us 11sp's - or are there that I can't locate?
I see the Christini's Boost and FB's are back for sale (25% price increase).
Set on my smallest cog being 12t, the 20% additional grip over an 11t's can't hurt. That's the end of the road.
Running a KMC e11 chain and steel cogs, I was resigned to eating alloy ring gears - hey, soft, powdered aluminum would actually lube steel ... lol - and at the worst possible time start shearing teeth off. So "Steel" Ring Gear sounded even better - but nobody I can find makes a 46 or 48t😕 narrow wide.
 
Finally got to go out for a ride today. 🥳
During the ride I rode up a long, fairly steep hill (pavement). I was curious to see how many watts I could get out of the motor.
Pedalling hard in level 9 I was only able to hit 1800 watts.
I was a bit disappointed, as I thought I could hit the advertised 2300 watts.

I haven't been able to change any of the power parameters yet and, as far as I know, the bike came from Watt Wagons set up for max power (2300/3000)
Why couldn't I hit 2300 watts?
 
Was battery at 100%? Mode 9 (Sport 4) should have gotten you there. But I do notice I only hit the 2300 from the battery BMS monitor when battery is full! Sorry @Deacon Blues , I forgot what bike you got….
-BB
 
Any chance you were pegged out on the torque setting. Meaning you were almost dummy pedaling?

The other problem could be the charge or the bms on the battery. To consistently hit 2300w the battery needs to be able to sustain 40 amps and even then 2300 watts can not be reached when the voltage gets below 57.5. If it is 50 amps then the voltage could drop down to the mid 40’s and still get there. I do not know what that setting is, but it should be floating around somewhere.


If not dummy pedaling, I would look at those setting.
 
If at 50a, should have been able to get close to 2300. If 40 amps I don’t know that you will ever hit a true 2300 watts.

A 40 amp pull would definitely drop the voltage below 57v. Within a second. If you are charging to 90% or below you will never have enough to get that high.

I was looking through the battery thread to see what it says, but seems to be conflicting reports on the amperage it can draw. .
 
Deacon Blues said:
I wasn't clown pedalling and the battery was showing around 39%.
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Without knowing what your Amp setting is but supposing it is 40A as your ability to get 2300w of power is dependent on having at least the 57.5V as mentioned available. At 39% you only had about 46V or so available. V x A = W so as your battery depletes volts it also depletes the amount of watts on tap.

But even at 1800w you are at 3x the power that a "250w" Class 1 bike with a 600w peak at full charge is able to and I'm sure still moved you along at a good clip. Try the same hill again on a fresh charge and see what you get.
 
Thanks for the input. I'm going for another ride tomorrow and I'll give it another try with a full battery.
Most of my riding is in the first 3 levels. I often ride in level 1 to conserve my battery, since most of my rides are in the 50-70km range.
 
I tried the same thing (twice) on another hill today, with the battery showing 59%.
With both runs the motor initially hit 2200 watts, then went down to 1800 watts and stayed there.
 
I set the battery charger to 100% to see if the charge would get close to that number.
The display showed 95% and when I changed the display to volts it showed 58.6V

The battery is 50.4V 17.0ah and 856.8 Wh (JS 14S5P-35E
 
Data points
The Samsung 35E are given for 3.6V x 3.5Ah with 8Amp max continuous discharge and 13A peak discharge

14S - 5P makes the pack :
  • 50.4V (@3.6V) x 17.5Ah = 882 Wh
  • Max Continuous discharge is 40Amps or 2,000W @ 3.6V
  • Peak Discharge is 65Amps or 3,276W @ 3.6V
  • Max Voltage is 58.8V (4.2V / cell) so reading of 58.6V for 95% sounds OK

The page below shows the discharge curves at various Amp rate

Cell capacities are advertised using a range between 4.2V and 2.5V, but Cutoff voltage is usually 3V
Based on the discharge curves above, at 3V cutoff, the usable cell capacity is:
2.80 Ah at 10A discharge, this means 706Wh usable pack capacity, and 59% capacity is 41% used or 1.15Ah and 3.33V for 2330W (14x3.33 x 5x10)
2.90 Ah at 7A discharge, this means 730Wh usable pack capacity, and 59% capacity is 41% used or 1.15Ah and 3.48V for 1700W (14x3.48 x 5x7)
3.15 Ah at 3A discharge, this means 794Wh usable pack capacity, and 59% capacity is 41% used or 1.15Ah and 3.65V for 766W (14x3.65 x 5x3)

So at 59% capacity, we can extrapolate that discharging at 8Amp (the max continuous discharge) would probably be around 3.43V giving 1900W
So it only sustains 2200W that requires peak discharge for only a moment, then drops down to 1800W, close to the 1900W extrapolated above?
 
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Is everybody's X1 motors shipping with Anderson connectors & the 10AWG wire that stock M620's ship with? I know Innotrace offers them with XT60 as an option and I've got a sack of XT90S connectors (would have preferred an XT60 with antispark for my application but apparently the 90's are the smallest I can get with an antispark connector) for my battery packs. I ordered an anderson to XT90 with some other stuff since it was too cheap not to not go the lazy route, of course the connector was made with 12AWG so... useless for me.
 
Though not for the UCP, the motor shown in the thread below was for my Hydra and came FRESH from Germany w/ APP connectors....
-BB

electricbikereview.com

BarnBoy's Hydra Adventures...

@BarnBoy Maybe you could repost the controller programming bit in the dedicated thread below for easier future reference. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/archon-x1-programming-thread-questions-and-experiences.40034/page-2
electricbikereview.com electricbikereview.com
 
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