First ebike, and so many choices. Some brands offer multiple sizes (eg. S,M,L,XL), others just one size. Most size discussions start with height and weight. When I bought my first bike, frame size was a common parameter. With ebikes, I seldom find a frame size listed. More frequently, a diagram is posted with a long list of parameters (see image below). But which of these is critical? Many comments suggest work arounds to obtain a proper fit, when the factory configuration is not optimal. For example, a longer seat post, stem risers, longer/shorter crank arms, etc. In my mind, max seat height and reach seem to be most critical. But, if I choose a smaller frame (weight consideration), and then add a longer seat post to attain proper leg extension, this puts more weight on the rear and less on the front. Just this one modification could lead to steering problems (less weight on front tire). What are your thoughts? Thanks for your comments.
Most Important Fit Parameters
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AHicks
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No pro here by any shape of the imagination, but I think a lot of this "most critical" idea would be based on your inseam and the style frame you were looking at. Clearly stand over height would be a big deal, unless you were looking at a step over. Minimum seat height, especially if you were thinking of a suspension seat post, might also be a problem for those that are "verticaly challenged".
The front/rear weight bias thing might be an issue for some way more advanced riders, but I've never read or experienced any sort of front end instability issue or anything like that.
The front/rear weight bias thing might be an issue for some way more advanced riders, but I've never read or experienced any sort of front end instability issue or anything like that.
Thanks for the reply. Since my inseam is longer, I have been focusing on the max seat height. The suspension seat post option would provide more length and more inches within the seat down tube. I'm guessing this would yield more stability. But, then the bar height becomes an issue. How much do most risers provide? And does this cause a problem with cable length? Thanks for your comments.
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More upright you are less weight on handlebars and front wheel. Notice more on steep climbs especially with loaded panniers.
AHicks
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You have to set the seat height for proper leg extension, not much getting around what you end up with there. Bar height is whatever makes you comfortable. I can say that I enjoy a fairly upright (grampa) seating position, and at 6'1" it's not uncommon for me to use all of the cable slack available - especially the front brake. Bar risers and types are all over the place to accommodate different people/desires. Amazon works well here as they'll take mistakes back and let you try something else....
I'm the same height with an inseam of 35". I noticed you recently purchased the Atlas. I think the Atlas has a frame size of 17.5", is that correct? Were you able to tune the geometry for a good fit? My non-ebike has a frame size of 19", which made me think 17.5" frame would be too small (maybe over thinking the importance).
AHicks
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The last bike I had with a 19" frame was WAY too big for this old man. I've been buying 17"/Medium since without regret. For me personally, tuning to fit/for comfort is mostly about handlebar styles and handlebar height. It's something I just plan on when buying a bike. Not something to worry about. Sure, it takes some dinking around/test riding to get it right, but generally there's no hurry. Results are worth it....
The Atlas required a pretty tall stem w/adjustable angle. I was able to use the stock handlebars. I used this stem in the 110mm. Not all are able to extend straight up (90 degrees) and I used all of that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X3LHMD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
indianajo
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I've had two mountain bikes (diamondback, pacific quantum) and a cruiser (huffy savannah) dump me on my chin 5 times in 10 years. The front tire hits a bump, gravel ridge, high pavement separator, stick, snaps sideways out of my hands, the front tire grabs, the seat rises, and over I go on my chin. Broke it the last time. Advice on roadbikereview.com was "hold onto the handlebars". I'm glad all riders on that forum are supermen. Didn't help me any.
Problem limited to modern upright seating bikes with "fast" steering, ie inadequate trail (car term "caster"). 1946 Firestone bike with same wheel size frame size & tires was stable as a rock. Road bikes with flat back head bent position put enough weight on the front wheel to not have the problem. Unfortunately that position provides significant risk of neck injury due to extreme flex of neck. Not to mention bashing the head into trees, poles, or concrete culverts (last put a woman in hospital 10 weeks).
Cargo bike with my weight transferred to the front wheel by stretch frame, has eliminated the wheel snap problem. 4 1/2 years, 9500 miles, no spills on the chin.
For original question, as a small person I look at standover height, ability to get leg almost straight pedaling while still able to touch the ground with toes when stopped. Plus ability to reach the handlebars without leaning forwards excessively. Tall people have the opposite problem. One size doesn't fit all. I had to order my cargo bike in from California; there was nothing suitable here but kiddie bikes with the wheel snap problem. Dimensions of the bike on the website proved adequate to predict its comfort. So suited to short people, model was deleted the next year. I
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My experience follows your journey, exactly. First the seat height (usually a new, longer seat post), then a longer stem. The stem angle usually involves a lot of trial and error to get the forward lean dialed in properly. The link you provided is "currently unavailable", so still looking for an alternative. Thanks for the guidance.
PS: After the new higher stem was installed, any problem with cable length?
AHicks
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Typical of most of my bikes, when I get done the front brake lines always seem right at max. It's fine, should be no trouble, but I wouldn't try for any higher.
Here's a different stem showing in stock. 110mm and able to extend to 90 degrees....
AHicks, Thanks. For this stem with a 1" handlebar and stem diameter of 28.6mm, do these match the Atlas? How difficult is the installation? Are spacers needed?
AHicks
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Cool feature about Amazon, it allows you search back through your orders. This is the one I purchased for the Atlas, along with a HD spring to carry my weight (300lbs). As you can see, it's a 30.9" diameter. A quick email to Evelo to confirm wouldn't hurt a thing - their fault for not lisiting the post size in the bike specs!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTCB51T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As far as the Cane Creek, LT is a long travel, ST is a short travel. I think the ST is sold for intances where the LT places the seat too high for a good fit. I can't imagine why anyone might buy it otherwise. Regarding the post sizes offered, you would order the smaller one, then order the correct size sleeve to shim the too small OD up to fit the Atlas. -Al
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTCB51T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As far as the Cane Creek, LT is a long travel, ST is a short travel. I think the ST is sold for intances where the LT places the seat too high for a good fit. I can't imagine why anyone might buy it otherwise. Regarding the post sizes offered, you would order the smaller one, then order the correct size sleeve to shim the too small OD up to fit the Atlas. -Al
On the Evelo website I see the following under accessories:
Cane Creek Thudbuster Suspension Seatpost ST
- The 31.6mm post is 375mm long. This is the correct size for the EVELO Atlas.
Is the Atlas stem diameter 25.4mm and handlebar diameter 1"?
AHicks
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I would confirm post size with Evelo before making your next move. Yes, correct size much preferred over having to use a shim. Maybe ask them about required stem size at the same time?
m@Robertson
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Standover height is the single must-have to get right. If its too tall you have a major safety issue (nutcracker) every time you come to a stop. Especially unplanned ones. Most everything else can be worked around.
You also don't want a frame sized so small you need an extra-long seatpost to make up the difference so you have proper leg extension. The real danger is to have the post up so high in the seat tube (even keeping it within the max that is etched on the post) that you stress the frame. I've seen them crack with heavy riders and long posts that effectively become big levers with a giant weight on one end (the rider) prying at the frame on every bump.
I use extra-long posts (400mm-ish) but I try to bury them deeply in the seat tube; size the frame better to my body and use the extra long post to just reinforce the connection into the frame. 28 mph + 250 lb rider = a beat-down on that poor frame.
I do look at reach (top tube length) but you can vary that quite a lot when you choose your components. A seatpost with or without a setback. Move the seat forward or back (within the limits shown on the rails only!). Stem length. Degree of pullback on the bars. It all adds up to a lot of fudge shifting one way or the other. But reach is for me third-most important on the frame specs (keeping in mind a crazy long top tube has performance implications, too.).
For sure, I would never EVER use a stem riser. Those things introduce a huge point of failure. Its far better to get your bar height increase with a combination of your stem (a solid 45-degree angled one for instance; never an adjustable one) and the rise on your bars. You can get quite a lot of increase from those two things without compromising the bike's safety at speed.
You also don't want a frame sized so small you need an extra-long seatpost to make up the difference so you have proper leg extension. The real danger is to have the post up so high in the seat tube (even keeping it within the max that is etched on the post) that you stress the frame. I've seen them crack with heavy riders and long posts that effectively become big levers with a giant weight on one end (the rider) prying at the frame on every bump.
I use extra-long posts (400mm-ish) but I try to bury them deeply in the seat tube; size the frame better to my body and use the extra long post to just reinforce the connection into the frame. 28 mph + 250 lb rider = a beat-down on that poor frame.
I do look at reach (top tube length) but you can vary that quite a lot when you choose your components. A seatpost with or without a setback. Move the seat forward or back (within the limits shown on the rails only!). Stem length. Degree of pullback on the bars. It all adds up to a lot of fudge shifting one way or the other. But reach is for me third-most important on the frame specs (keeping in mind a crazy long top tube has performance implications, too.).
For sure, I would never EVER use a stem riser. Those things introduce a huge point of failure. Its far better to get your bar height increase with a combination of your stem (a solid 45-degree angled one for instance; never an adjustable one) and the rise on your bars. You can get quite a lot of increase from those two things without compromising the bike's safety at speed.
m@Robertson
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Don't buy the Thud ST. Go with the LT. I have a few of both and I was pissed when I finally decided to try out the LT on a bike and realized it was so much better, without any negatives. I have another LT sitting on my parts shelf waiting for a bike frame to finally ship so I can build with it. the new design doesn't have the loopy-goofy look of the original that put me off of it. I also upgrade mine with the stiffest elastomer.
Cane Creek sells a variety of post shims, made properly long enough that you don't have a risk of damaging your frame by using one. You don't have to have a precise match to the frame so long as you can use one of their shims. IIRC they are 110mm long which is longer than pretty much all of their competitors.
Not sure I know what is needed for my ideal riding position. I was considering this stem riser that is adjustable so I could test out different settings. But you seem down on adjustable stem risers, so maybe I should reconsider.
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