Most Important Fit Parameters
- Thread starter Recycle
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Have you reached the max length of the front brake line yet? If that's still OK, my experience has been there may be some wire/cable stuffed into the space above the battery, behind that grommet that you can carefully pull out - but not too hard!
There are no cable extenders. If you want longer, you buy a good quality cable and make a new one. One warning, on the shifter cables, I would not plan on making new ones yourself. They're getting into advanced or pro level. Dropping the motor will be required, then they must be set up exactly right on the hub to allow it to shift as intended - which might be a daunting task.....
Thanks. That was the first area I looked at (grommet). I did get a few mm's but not enough. I did find some Julet cables, but most are way tool long (800cm). Was hoping to find some short extender cables, but no luck so far.
Found some shorter (11 in.) cables here:
Electric Bike Wiring
Waterproof, julet type connectors and plugs for ebike conversion kits and ebikes. Julet type 5 pin display connector. 9 pin waterproof motor connector. 8 pin waterproof 1T4 main harness cable
elecbikeparts.com
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I am very much down on them. I have seen two of them fail, and heard tell of a third. But I watched two. What happened the first time was the rider slammed on the brakes and his body weight shifted hard forward. That put a ton of stress on that adjustable stem right at the point of adjustment, which gave out. The bars slip straight down and the poor rider comes forward and down off the seat. So the first consequence was a nutcracker on the top tube. Next, he was able to maintain grip on the brake levers, but also used his feet Fred Flintstone-style as a braking aid. Then he moaned a lot (see: nutcracker).
The second time, the rider was heading thru what they thought was a puddle but it had a pothole hiding inside. Front wheel dropped by surprise... WHAM and the bars dropped straight down. This time with the rider doing a forward gainer over the bars and into the water.
There are lots of people who use these and have no issues. I'll roll the dice some other way. Especially since a quality angled solid riser stem is easy to get hold of, as is a riser handlebar.
Found more negative feedback on stem risers, so still looking for an alternative. An Atlas owner in another forum, facing the issue of bars being too low, chose another route, changing handlebars. As you might imagine, there is wide assortment available. He found a suitable choice which provided a 3.5in rise. He found a Julet cable extension for the throttle cable. Display is in its original center position. My only question would be is there enough length in the stock brake cables/hoses to accommodate the height increase? Thanks.
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
You'll find out when you try it. This is something you just have to work through.
One thing to watch out for is whether the cables/hoses get pulled tight as you turn the bars.
Quick and dirty, you can remove the bars from the stem, then straddle the bike. Hold the bars in their approximate lifted position. Turn your arms and body to simulate a turn with the height increase. How does it look to you doing that? Proceed from there. Or just make your change and see what happens. So long as you are comfortable waiting for parts to fix any issues, there's no need to test in advance as the result will be the same regardless.
You wouldn't be the first person who found they should sub in a longer hose. Or for that matter a cable and housing
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Petaluma, CA
I have used the adjustable risers. They just need to be locked down, preferably by someone with experience. A guy getting back into cycling needed one. As he got back into it and became more fit, it could be lowered a couple of notches. A lot can be done with handlebars too that makes a big difference. Do you want your elbows locked and out to the sides all day? Or slightly down and slightly bent? A young guy wants a Large frame, but Medium will serve him better. I just need to tell him the facts. Also, smaller frames tend to be stiffer and stronger while weighing less. On a Large, he would look like a kid borrowing his dad's pants. The saddle would be down all the way and the reach to far.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Agree you have to work through this on your own. The plan is to use whatever you feel is necessary to get the (upright) seating position you're after. No amount of research is going to get this answer for you. NOBODY is going to be able to tell you whether or not your OEM cables are going to be long enough with any certainty. Buying your parts through Amazon a good plan for many of us so they can be returned if necessary.
Every one of my bikes use adjustable risers to get me comfortable, and I've been using them for years. Some of them have had the bars changed in addition to the use of a riser! Sure, if your front end drops in a big enough hole, you may bend some parts (anywhere on the front of the bike!). I don't know how you're going to avoid going over the handlebars even if everything holds!
How much did you raise the handlebars on your Atlas? Did you have cable length problems with the throttle, display, brake cables/hoses? Thanks.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
See post #10?
Rexlion
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Tulsa metro
This is the adjustable riser I bought for my Ride1Up Lmtd, and I'm happy with it. Due to the brake cable length I could only raise the angle to about the 60 degree mark, but that was enough to give me what I wanted: upright seat position with no wrist pressure.
When looking to order my ebike I thought a Thudbuster would be da bomb. Then I got looking at the Kinekt seat posts and liked their design better. But in the end (pun intended), all I needed was a springed Cloud 9 seat.
When looking to order my ebike I thought a Thudbuster would be da bomb. Then I got looking at the Kinekt seat posts and liked their design better. But in the end (pun intended), all I needed was a springed Cloud 9 seat.
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I was wondering about the number of inches and angle you ended with? Thanks.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
This is about YOU! Angle adjusted to YOUR liking!
110mm (the riser height) is a hair over 4".
I was tying to determine if my cable slack was about the same as yours, it's not. Almost no cable slack, stock. Looks like the riser and handlebar options are out. Will have to explore longer brake cables/hoses.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Did you remove all of the cable wrap to allow them to be routed differently? Did you check to see if there was some extra wire inside the down tube behind that grommet?
Excellent suggestions. I got some of these tips from another forum. My first step was to remove all the cable wraps. I then removed the grommet and carefully pulled out all excess cable slack. I also rotated the brake levers downward slightly. The assertion from other owners, is that each production run has its own unique characteristics. This one being minimum length cable runs. Another indicator, throttle and display cables pull their connectors apart when the bars are at their extreme travel limits. For normal riding, not an issue. Lesson learned, one frame size does not always fit the entire range, especially at the extremes (Rider Height 5'6" to 6'3"). Inseam and sleeve length are more important than absolute height. As pointed out many times, test rides are crucial in making ebike decisions. Almost impossible in this climate, however.
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