Lectric XP
- Thread starter konea420
- Start date
The wheels do have to be removed. The tires come off easy with tire levers, however the rear wheel is challaging to get back on. Several posts on methods to spread the frame to get the rear wheel back on. I used a long screwdriver as a pry bar against the brake hub and the gear hub on each side taping the wheel back on with the nuts on the axle and a rubber mallet.
Reformvette
Active Member
How long of a screwdriver do you use to pry and what do you tap on with the rubber mallet when installing the rear wheel? Thanks.
It sure has been quiet on this forum in the last few weeks. I guess most are riding their XPs or are Christmas shopping
poorplayer
Active Member
I'm getting a hunch that the XP craze has peaked somewhat. As of this morning 12/5, the $879 BF/CM sale price is still listed. I wonder how much inventory actually went through the doors in the past two weeks. And I also wonder if they can really raise their price back up again to $1099. I'm guessing winter is a flat season for sales.It sure has been quiet on this forum in the last few weeks. I guess most are riding their XPs or are Christmas shopping
Yeah thinking your right, sales are probably fading a bit, especially sense when the XP first came out there were not a lot of choices out there and they had the best package deal going, now the market is getting flooded with e-bikes and the choices are growing, and pricing is getting pretty even across the spectrum, and agree winter is slow for sales (except for Christmas). Might see more of us back on the forum when some of us can get back on the bikes after winter, Wisconsin in my case. Have the bike in the spare room for winter maintenance (new tires, adjust brakes, adjust derailleur, etc.). Envy you people in the warmer states.
TYVM, can't wait for mine to arrive sometime next week. I am hoping it is robust enough to handle a 14 mile one-way commute in Atlanta. Does anyone have any recommendations for hand muffs and a strong light set. I use those on my highway scooter but they are way too big for this bike. The light set is to augment the included lights so the crazies don't run me down. Really glad I found this forum, everyone seems very helpful and I hope to add my experiences with the bike to the community knowledgebase.
Reformvette
Active Member
I hear ya and understand. There's no snow on the ground here in Mississippi, but it has been colder temperatures than the norm.
Reformvette
Active Member
Yes, it will be interesting to see if they can raise their price. They'll have to do what's necessary to keep operations running.
16 inch Craftsman, placement shown in photo, tap on nut that is on the axle. Rubber mallet shown.How long of a screwdriver do you use to pry and what do you tap on with the rubber mallet when installing the rear wheel? Thanks.
It sure has been quiet on this forum in the last few weeks. I guess most are riding their XPs or are Christmas shopping
Kimbo
Active Member
Also note the position of the washer that is touching the screwdriver, this washer must be installed as shown.
Reformvette
Active Member
Thanks for that information BroBox. I'll have to get me one of those screwdrivers to carry with me while riding. I've gotten one of the mallets a few weeks ago.
Reformvette
Active Member
Thanks for that information about the orientation of the washer. Placement is key in the installation on assemblies.
After fighting getting the wheel back on, it's not going to be a roadside repair very easily. I purchased a flat repair kit and a CO2 inflater where I can patch the tube while still on the bike. Much easier to carry and a heck of a lot faster. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_55
Got pretty much the same set up for repair. I've been watching a lot of biking videos and when they get a flat tire I never see them take the tire completely off, they always leave the tire on and just take the part of the tube with hole out, never seen the need to have to take the tire completely off.
YES! I had them upside down the first time and it will not go back together. Thanks to this forum, I was corrected and it worked.
Patrick M
Member
I have been doing a little more research on the topic and I found out that the BMS on many batteries limits the amount of current a battery can be charged at. So although you battery is draining at a higher rate, the battery can only be charged at a certain rate. I think the question now is what is the maximum charge rate the booster battery will charge the primary battery and will it overload the barrel connector? I will continue to follow this idea.
Rob on this forum and the Facebook user group did a second battery modification that I thought was genius. Second battery is mounted to the rack. He purchased the plug to connect direct to the controller bypassing the main batter. The second battery does need a key switch to turn it off and on. Switch the main batter off, switch the secondary battery on. No rewiring, no chance of shorting anything out. I think the mod was explained on the FB users group. Maybe he'll see this post and share the plug and procedure he used. Or try a search on the FB group.
Here is the copy and paste of his post. Once I understood what he was doing, it made a lot of sense:
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
Robert Kobylarz Chuck Fedora
Y cable with dean plugs.
Dean plug is used inside XP frame to connect battery to controller.
Y cable allows to connect 2 batteries at the same time.
You just have to make sure you dont run both at the same time so 2nd battery needs key switch too like original.
Last edited:
Hovtech
Member
I started to notice a rattle in the front end. Would really rattle going over stone driveways. Tried to tighten everything on handle bars and even tightened the race nut, to no avail. Finally occurred to me is the battery is loose in its enclosure. It rattles around in its enclosure. Put the battery in and used a piece of folded cardboard and stuck it in the top of the battery between the top of the case and the battery body. This helps a great deal, but not completely. May put a thick piece of cardboard in the front of the battery to press on it when you close the bike on it. Anyone else have any ideas that worked?
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