I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

I need to do a splice. I need to take out a female connector from a controller to a motor and replace it. I will show it when I do it. I am putting it off today due to a really good new dystopian Si-Fi novel. "The Felicity Complex." I just want to read it. I made a bunch of cash today anyway. When I splice, I cut cleanly with an extra 20mm of overlap. The wires get fanned and soldered. 2mm heatshrink goes over each. Then half go one way and half the other and larger marine shrinktube goes over the entire thing. I only stagger slightly inside battery mounts. This book will become a sanitized movie in a few years with all the good parts edited out, like the girl on girl scenes in the closet. @PCeBiker has very nice tires.

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When I splice, I cut cleanly with an extra 20mm of overlap. The wires get fanned and soldered.

I had to add quite a bit of length, so that gave me room to stagger each splice.
I cut the wires exactly to length with ~10 mm overlap of each wire that got stripped off, then the wires were twisted together and soldered.


2mm heatshrink goes over each.

I didn't need the 2mm heat shrink because my splices are far enough apart that they don't touch each other when folded over.

It helps to keep the outer shrink tube from getting all lumpy, and it's easier to feed through the outer shrink tube.


larger marine shrinktube goes over the entire thing.

I used double walled heat shrink tube with glue but only heated and sealed the ends where it overlapped the original cable.

I only shrunk the overlapping ends so my cable looks a little neater, and I can open it up easily if I need to, because the middle isn't glued.



@PCeBiker has very nice tires.


I bought a pair of Schwalbe Super Moto-X tires the day after I bought a Schwalbe Hurricane tire.




I mistakingly thought that my Super Moto-X tires were only bicycle rated, but they have MOPED printed on them near the wire tire bead,..


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Those tires fly. I am stuck working on mostly sucky bikes. Next is another Ape-Ass, Aipas bike. I swapped the grips and gave it a push-in throttle. Then it got PickUp e50 cargo tires and a Bontrager saddle. Today it is getting quad hydros over the single pad movement cable brakes. Oh, and I ditched the plastic pedals. He wants to commute so flats are not an option, so it also has FlatOut.

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I don't cut my cable like that.

I slice the outer cable casing open and remove as much as possible (leaving an inch or so remaining for the shrink tube overlap at each end).

So in your photo, I would have removed about 4-5 inches of the outer cable insulation exposing the fully intact 9 wires inside.

That would give me enough room to stagger maybe all of connections enough to not need internal shrink tube, or at least I wouldn't have one Big Lump of connections to have to stash somewhere.
 
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You've got plenty of room to peel back the casing to stagger you're connections,..

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As long as this isn't what you're going to splice into??

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That's too short to stagger.
 
There often isn't enough length to stagger the individual wire splices.
Even when there is, I personally don't like the look of a long "lumpy" piece of shrink tubing in the wire run.
The connector itself is a large "bump" in the run, I prefer to make the splice the same size with a shorter piece of shrink.
To improve the look, I use micro spiral wrap to make the wire run look more consistent.
In some cases, where stress isn't a problem, you can just put waterproof shrink on the individual wire solder joints and not cover the entire cable with a larger piece. The micro spiral wrap provides the necessary protection.
 
I admit that that splice was a pain. I started early and the light was not good. Little wires got accidently mixed by large fingers. I was left with one pair to match, a little black wire and a little green wire. When twisting wires an adjacent one got mixed in. I had to wait until noon and get it into the light to sort it out. It is a brand new motor. It all tested great in the stand. The kid picked it up. It went 175 meters and the motor locked up. I took off the brake and the wheel will not turn regardless of the amount of force applied.
 
Now I am attempting to get a hydro line through a frame. It is such a PITA. There are four other lines in there between the battery compartment and the upper part of the down tube. It cannot cross any of them or it will not fit. I can get a cable through to fish it but it keeps crossing another line, then jams.
 
Now I am attempting to get a hydro line through a frame. It is such a PITA. There are four other lines in there between the battery compartment and the upper part of the down tube. It cannot cross any of them or it will not fit. I can get a cable through to fish it but it keeps crossing another line, then jams.
Pull what's in back down and then pull them all in together.
Stagger the forward ends so the head is not one big nut.
 
So, I had to chop off the olive and nut. I got it through. But it is too short! It will take a whole new hose and a full bleed. What to do when your hose it too short?
 
Sounds like the carpenter who cut a piece of wood 3 times... and it was still too short 🙃
I know Tektro makes line couplings for longer installs... like on a tandem. But I'd probably just replace it.
 
It was pre-bleed kit. I am getting 3 meters. The front is easy. The guy with the custom Ti bike is sending in his boss for a conversion. That is so much better than these Amazon bikes and MacFoxes. I need to take the bad with the good.
 
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