I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

PCeBiker

No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
Region
Canada
I'm months overdue, so I just threw it together and took it for a test ride,..


20260627_134317.jpg



It's got a new seat with a backrest, a new Suntour NCX suspension seatpost, a new Topeak rear rack, a Bafang rear hub motor, a new Bafang mid-drive motor, two batteries, two displays, and two throttles.


It worked great 👍
I only used one motor at a time because I had a lot to get used to, and I didn't have my brake switches or speed sensor connected yet.

The mid-drive worked pretty cool, and I realized that I only have to ghost pedal to change gears and just for a second, so I still ain't really pedaling. 😁

I've got two new KMC e8 chains that need to be cleaned and waxed before I install them.
 

Attachments

  • 20260627_134253.jpg
    20260627_134253.jpg
    1,017.7 KB · Views: 2
  • 20260627_134304.jpg
    20260627_134304.jpg
    265.9 KB · Views: 2
  • 20260627_134311.jpg
    20260627_134311.jpg
    426.5 KB · Views: 3
  • 20260627_134406.jpg
    20260627_134406.jpg
    456.8 KB · Views: 3
  • 20260628_082504.jpg
    20260628_082504.jpg
    304.4 KB · Views: 3
How are you going to synchronize the motors?

You kinda don't need to.

I just use the hub-drive normally, and the mid-drive simply replaces me as the crank input.
Instead of pedaling, I operate a second throttle.

Lots can still go wrong, I got a throttle in each hand. 😁
 
So they will be synchronized by you. That means that when both motors are engaged, they will be fighting each other, right? How do dual hub motor bikes deal with that? Is there a special dual motor controller to keep them in sync?

I'm not busting you, I sincerely don't know how these systems work.
 
I'm not sure but I don't think the motors will fight each other as they both freewheel.
I'm thinking like any motor going down a steep hill with minimal call for power.
 
So they will be synchronized by you.

Yeah, it's up to me to mesh the motors gently.

My biggest problem will probably be trying not to Slam the pawls in my freewheel when the mid-drive needs to get the chain line spun up to catch up with the hub motor.

I do have an upgraded freewheel, but it's still a freewheel.
 
If you use something similar to my BBS02B programming scheme there's a few things you can do to make things more gentle.
Set the Stop Decay above 100... I think I last was using something like 135
Set the throttle start current low.. an amp or two
In practice if you tap PAS up while pedaling it will accelerate faster
If you pause pedaling before PAS up (like when switching gears) it'll elongate the acceleration curve.

Maybe set your global current low until you get a feel for things....
 
Wow, I can't imagine my first ride of almost 7 months from January First. It is my tradition to do a New Year's Day ride in the hills.
 
Another thought is to set the throttle to By Displays Command. This will give you 9 different maximum throttle outputs (matching PAS) and you can just hold it wide open instead of trying to vary rotation.
 
I know that bike snobs would disagree. I like freewheels on bikes. I purchased a new bike on super sale for $450 six-years ago. My plan was to fix it up, convert it and flip it. I have ridden it almost every day since. A nice nickel plated 11-34 freewheel costs about $28. And it uses a wider 8-sp chain than 9,10, 11, 12, so they last longer. I also like that you took the added up-front effort to wax the chain. It is such a simple bike. New tires are $60 for a pair. I don't mind if I need to replace the rear every six-months. I put 4,500 miles on it a year and no car payment.
 
Good job. How's the power up hills and such? I don't think the motors have to by sync'd by any degree. The laggard will just be kind of freewheeling. As long as your mind can keep track of what's going on, you should be alright:)
 
So,..
I got home from my ride yesterday, and decided to clean up the rats nest of wires wrapped around the steering tube on the frame,..


20260627_134311.jpg



I stuffed the two loops of 1-4 cable into the downtube and came up with this,..


20260628_083204.jpg



Way Cleaner looking!!

I moved the mid-drive display to the other side of the bars, and I was getting it spiral wrapped (keeping in mind the front brake line flex) when I thought I'd plug everything in and test it.

Nothing.
The display will not light up and do it's start up routine.
Dead. 😔 😟 🙁 😥 😞 😁

I shouldn't aughta used a screwdriver and needle nose pliers to jam the cable into the downtube? 😁



So,.. no-go for the mid-drive for the time being, but I bought a new one of these,..


Screenshot_20260628_072708_AliExpress.jpg




It's 25 cm shorter than the original, and I'll be more careful installing it.

I hope I just broke a wire and didn't short out the damn controller?



Wow, I can't imagine my first ride of almost 7 months from January First.

It was actually mid October for me.

So I was rushing to get the damn thing outta the house, with my lazy ass on it. 😁


I actually bent a pin in my display connector by not paying attention and not wearing my reading glasses.

Fortunately I remembered @harryS 's post (I think it was?) about shorting out and wrecking his controller with a tiny metal 🪛, so I used my tiny ceramic 🪛 and managed to not blow anything up.
 
I know that bike snobs would disagree. I like freewheels on bikes.

It has nothing to do with snobbery or ridiculously light weight for me.
I'm all about strong and durable.


I took @m@Robertson 's advice and bought a DNP / Drift Maniac freewheel.

Tough as nails.
It's specifically designed for Maniacs to Drift their off-road Mountain Bikes..

Non of this lightweight alloy crap. Old-school quality alloy steel.
It needs to have mass to be strong, regardless of what it's made of.


 
Back