I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

I did the 'Just get a burger' for 45-minutes with a MacFox today. I diagnosed it in seven seconds. It is a failed motor core. It stutters and grinds like hell before it dies.

Here is what happens when BB spacers are not used on a MTB, and the main-gear motor housing is cranked down against the wide chainstay. It worked for one ride. At the next attempt it broke on the driveway. For the price of a new right housing, chainring, and display, I have a new motor. It would be great for a cargo bike conversion.
 

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I had a hard time finding a UART BBS02B with 100mm BB spacing.

I couldn't find Any 500 Watt versions, and had to buy a 750 Watt motor to get the spacing I needed.

The BBS02B, especially a UART version, is almost extinct.



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Here is what happens when BB spacers are not used on a MTB,


I got the spacing right, but I wanted to "cushion" the impact point between the motor housing and my downtube.

The motor was only making contact with about ¼" of the downtube, so I put a piece of urethane (cut from a piece of my skateboard truck "shock absorber" from 1978) between the housing and downtube, then "preloaded" it with a pry bar while I tightened up the BB nut/fastener.

Then I put hot glue on it to help keep it in place.
It is pinched in there pretty good, but it could loosen up I guess?
 

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I used a rolled section of used tube for that. I cut an oval in the middle to fit the round of the down tube and levered it in hard while tightening the left side with tons of locktight.

An Apias bike is coming in for assembly. I wonder how they arrived at that name? Must have been inspired at the Baboon enclosure.
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I used a rolled section of used tube for that. I cut an oval in the middle to fit the round of the down tube and levered it in hard while tightening the left side with tons of locktight.

Yeah, I remember you posting a picture of that.

I don't think that would work for my motor?
There's no bolt where the motor contacts the downtube.

I didn't want to use an innertube thinking it would be too soft and would get mashed and cut by the downtube.

The piece of urethane is really hard rubber.

The contact point was only about ¼" wide, on the outer motor housing,..

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And the motor housing wasn't contacting flush with the downtube.
It was hitting the edge/corner.


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Yeah, I remember you posting a picture of that.

I don't think that would work for my motor?
There's no bolt where the motor contacts the downtube.

I didn't want to use an innertube thinking it would be too soft and would get mashed and cut by the downtube.

The piece of urethane is really hard rubber.

The contact point was only about ¼" wide, on the outer motor housing,..

View attachment 212370


And the motor housing wasn't contacting flush with the downtube.
It was hitting the edge/corner.


View attachment 212371
Yeah one solid piece is better than folding up soft rubber.
I used a piece of sprinkler funny pipe that I manipulated with a knife and a heat gun. It fit perfectly with minimal give and looks as if it was supplied with the kit the way it wrapped the downtube.
I went for a 42.8 mile ride today,..
Well any way you get out on your bike is great.
But there is a little bit of a difference. My ride consisted of 500ft of elevation gain while maintaining a cadence >85 the entire time all while only using 25% of a small 10ah battery that was only charged to 80%
So while I went for a ride... You were taken for a ride 🙃
ps.. Better than wax.. the best way to keep dust off your chain and derailer is to actually have them move during use. 🙃 🙃

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I'm batman
 
My goal is to get motors as high and forward as I can for ground clearance. My bushings have become smaller. On my most recent S02 the stays were so wide I needed to hammer the lockring tool to get four & 1/2 threads. I want twice that minimum. I almost wish the kid makes it into an eMoto, so I am off the hook when it self-destructs. He came to pick it up without a helmet, so I lent him one. Now he has my $165 helmet and hates me for making it Class 1 and telling his dad to change it if he wants that.
 
Yeah one solid piece is better than folding up soft rubber.

I cut it kind thick thinking that the ¼" contact point would be "absorbed" and the pressure would be spread across the motor housing more evenly.

I didn't over think it..

Yeah, me neither. 😁


So while I went for a ride... You were taken for a ride 🙃


I think of it as an electric motorcycle with a functioning crank system to be used for emergency purposes only.

Like having paddles, a bailing bucket, and life jackets on a sailing vessel.


ps.. Better than wax.. the best way to keep dust off your chain and derailer is to actually have them move during use. 🙃 🙃

I dunno?🤔
If they were moving, the dust could work it's way into the chain??

I think it best to not disturb anything. 😁
 
My goal is to get motors as high and forward as I can for ground clearance.

That's not an issue with my ebike.
I'm a Fricken Mile off the ground now with my downhill forks.

I can lean into corners on the pavement with my inside pedal straight down.
I have to push my heel down to get it to scrape on the pavement.

(dragging a heel is fine, but you sure don't want to try and drag your toes. 😁 I remember getting my toes caught under my pedal when I was a kid.😁)
 
That's not an issue with my ebike.
I'm a Fricken Mile off the ground now with my downhill forks.

I can lean into corners on the pavement with my inside pedal straight down.
I have to push my heel down to get it to scrape on the pavement.

(dragging a heel is fine, but you sure don't want to try and drag your toes. 😁 I remember getting my toes caught under my pedal when I was a kid.😁)
My first cycling memory was getting my toes chewed in the front tire spokes of a tricycle.
Lesson learned : Shoes = good
 
I was actually wearing shoes.
I was ~12 yrs old and I must have had my toes pointed down on the pedal.

The toe of my shoe caught the ground and pulled my foot under backwards and I wiped out.

Lesson learned : Don't point your toes downward.
I always have the saddle high and fully extend legs and ankles while pulling back and up. Good torque sensor bikes love a smooth cadence throughout the stroke. As pedal pressure rises and cadence rises, so does power delivery, so it feels natural, yet enhanced. Sucky bikes are disconnected to pedal feel and cadence IMHO. Good bikes IMO are like an acoustic instrument with a pickup to an amplifier. You still must play it. But can then keep up with the drum kit.
I wrote a song this week about am electric bike rider:

Prospero’s Lightning (The Ravenswood Crossroads Session)

(A weeping bottleneck slide guitar sets a heavy, syncopated delta groove. A low, mourning blues harp blows a cold wind through the chords.)

Verse 1


The highway wind didn't take him—the shadows just called him back.
Now I’m parsing the mud of Omaha, looking for a missing track.
Got a Taleb barbell balance, an oracle's heavy design,
One foot in the ashes of yesterday, one crossing the blackbird line.
(Slide guitar shivers, mimics a raven’s cry)

Verse 2

The Missouri River’s a serpent, whispering ancient, ink-stained lies,
Telling me how the bloodline bleeds, under these heavy Nebraska skies.
I could turn my back on the magic, head south where the cattle roam,
But a restless heart with a book of life ain't ever gonna find a home.
The hardest choice a witch can make is trying to love a mortal man.
(Blues harp cuts in, short, breathless, and sharp)

Chorus

But the tallgrass hums with a power, waking up the Ravenswood clay,
And every mile is an alchemical dawn, washing his memory away.
This custom steel was forged in Stratford, where the old Bard cast his spell,
It runs on a lightning frequency, right between heaven and hell.
No map, no reins, just a worn-out bedroll against the freezing cold,
Riding a wizard named Prospero, tracking down the secrets untold.

Verse 3

I met a man at the crossroads, his guitar was tuned to the storm,
He asked if I’d trade my higher magic just to keep a cowboy warm.
But this engine runs on current, a wild, intuitive spark,
An electrical wizard flying, casting sigils through the dark.
Eighteen hundred miles of dust, shedding the skin of who I was before,
Leaving the ghost of that cowboy man, knocking on a closed-up door.
(Slide guitar and blues harp collide in an aggressive, dueling jam)

Outro / Climax

The wild things are screaming my name now, out where the tempests reign,
I’m gonna ride this blackbird lightning until I hit the coast of Maine.
Hunting the ultimate freedom that the asphalt couldn't yield...
Just a slide-guitar electric wizard, flying through a gravel field.
(The music strips away until it’s just the raw thumping of a boot on wood, a final ghostly wail of the harmonica, and the fading hiss of an amplifier.)
 
I always have the saddle high and fully extend legs and ankles while pulling back and up.

I extend one leg fully by pointing my heel down to "lock" my knee so I can stand on one leg at a time to help take the pressure off my ass.


,.. Sucky bikes are disconnected to pedal feel and cadence IMHO.

For me, it's the throttles on ebikes that suck.

I still have a small time delay when I hit the throttle.
Maybe with my UART BBS02B, I can delete the delay for throttle response all together with the SPEEED app?

It's not the same as PAS response.

I want my throttle to respond instantaneously with power in direct proportion to throttle position.


At least the brake switches don't have a time delay. 😁
 
An Apias bike is coming in for assembly. I wonder how they arrived at that name? Must have been inspired at the Baboon enclosure.
That's Aipas, Hindi for "bypass." The company is in Evanston WY. In November, 1868, scuttlebutt said this was to be the end of the line, where the Union Pacific would wait for the Central Pacific, coming from Sacramento. Harvey Booth set up a saloon tent to welcome the Union Pacific. Then the railroad decided to bypass the saloon and lay rails 12 miles farther to Wahsatch. There, they dug the 772 foot Echo Tunnel and rushed west to intercept the Central Pacific in the middle of the Great Salt Lake. I don't know if they were properly equipped with boat horns.

The BBB gives Aipas a C+, which I'm sure you will agree is between A and F. Evanston isn't known for an Injun community, so I guess the bikes are made in Injia, where Hindi is the official language.
 
It's Fixed !!!

My cable just needed to be reconnected inside the downtube,..


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Turns out "Somebody" put some sort of grease all over the connector and it pretty much just fell apart !!

So now I have a spare cable.

I think that I'll store it inside the downtube so I don't lose it?
I'll just grease it up good, and jam it in there. 😁
 
There we go,..

A piece of shrink tube (without glue) aughta hold it together,..
 

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Yes I put shrink wrap on tucked away connectors.
And when necessary, just a drop of silicone grease. Less is MORE!!
If you would have pinned it out when it happened (as suggested) you would have found the issue then.
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¡I'M BATMAN!
 
Yes I put shrink wrap on tucked away connectors.

I did consider it at first, but I didn't want to make the connection any Fatter.
The downtube is crammed full of wires. 😁



And when necessary, just a drop of silicone grease. Less is MORE!!


I figured none is best.
Everything was covered in dust. I didn't want it to stick.


If you would have pinned it out when it happened (as suggested) you would have found the issue then. View attachment 212412

¡I'M BATMAN!

I had to remove the motor to get to the connector, so I was procrastinating.
I just used my hub drive and ignored the issue 🙃


So,..
I managed to get my motor removed, and reinstalled then noticed my speed sensor wire had fallen between the chain wheel and motor housing and was trapped.
Not enough room to pull the connector through.

So the whole motor had to be loosened off again.
Just a few mm this time.

Fortunately, I got it all up and running, and decided to plug in my programming cable to check my settings,..



Screenshot_20260709_172214_Speeed.jpg



WTF??!!

I kept trying, but it wouldn't connect !!
And why is it plugged into my display? Shouldn't it be plugged into the controller??

My hub drive has the identical display, but the plugs are all reversed to keep people from doing stupid things.



So,.. after connecting my programming cable to my Mid-drive motor, I got a look at my settings,..



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Silicone grease is not necessary for a concealed connector... but if only to aid with disassembly in the future. Dust wouldn't be a problem as I would only apply it to the plastic on the julet and it'll be under the shrink wrap.
You connect to the display as that cable has communication with the controller (Tx/Rx wires)
As for your LEVELS settings.... You're going to have to play with them and find what works. Mine was set up for pedaling and to eliminate ghost pedaling so a much different approach. Throttle was used minimally.
Additionally I used the % toggle as that's how the PC interface works and by the time the SPEEED APP came around I was used to working around those numbers.

If you have any questions or something isn't doing what you want... Post it and we'll figure it out
 
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