I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

[PCeBiker]

That’s what I am talking about

I actually managed to slide my front wheel out sideways (unintentionally) about an inch or two yesterday going around a corner.

I ride 95% gravel, so I'm not going to go over the handlebars, I'm going to slide out my front wheel from under me, and end up on my ass.

If I happen to be in a corner, I could slide off the road.


Another time last year I was turning from pavement onto gravel, and there was sand and gravel on top of the asphalt.
I slid out a couple inches that time too, but managed to have enough "wobble room" to regain control without wiping out.

Sand and gravel on top of asphalt is even more slippery than just a gravel surface.

I have actually locked up the front wheel in gravel a few times,.. on purpose.
If I'm going in a straight line on level gravel (middle of the road), I can do a quick lockup without falling over.

 

[PCeBiker]

I've got two new KMC e8 chains that need to be cleaned and waxed before I install them.

I just spent 5 hours cleaning and waxing one of my new e8 chains,..

The chain was Really sticky with the "oil treatment" on it.
I started with hot water and Dawn detergent, then dried it, then rinsed it in Naphtha, then Dawn and dried again, then Acetone and dried again, then a final hose down with Brake cleaner outside on the back porch.

So I'm now ready to start waxing,..


The last time I used my wax, I got it Way Too hot and it started smoking.
Then all kinds of crusty bits formed on the bottom of the pot.

So this time, I set the pot of wax in a bigger pot of water so that I don't over heat it.

I've got Molybdenum Disulfide and Teflon Powder in the wax, but they separate out and sink to the bottom of the pot.

I melted everything, stirred it up, then poured it through a strainer to catch the crusty bits, then cleaned the pot and heated up the wax again.


This time I checked to see what the proper temperature was supposed to be,..

I kept stirring while flipping the chain around, and removed the chain at 150°F,..

So now I'm ready to install my fancy new Ebike Chain on my ebike, and it looks like my 1-4 cable should be here in a couple days.


The new chain came with a quick-link, but this particular quick-link apparently can't be reused??
I dunno??

And the chain sticks to a magnet so it’s got iron in it and it can rust.
But a "Real" chain needs to have iron in it to be strong, and if it's got rhe proper alloys and ratios in the mix, it can be almost rustproof.

 

[RunForTheHills]

I just spent 5 hours cleaning and waxing one of my new e8 chains,..

This is why I don't wax my chains. If it gets 10% less life, so be it.

 

[Gionnirocket]

This is why I don't wax my chains. If it gets 10% less life, so be it.

It won't ... Especially if you think that a waxing will last the life of the chain.
Only advantage of wax is no greasy hands when handling.
I bought some wax and Teflon powder... And I might one day use it as an initial treatment but right now 5 hours is a lot more valuable to me than the $18 dollars spent.

 

[PCeBiker]

This is why I don't wax my chains. If it gets 10% less life, so be it.

Yeah, I get it, but this single first treatment of my new chain should be that last time it ever needs that kind of cleaning.

Getting the chain Absolutely Parched is Really important, but there will be no source of grease or oil on the entire drive-line from here on in.


I actually cleaned and waxed my old chain a few months ago and it only took about 15 minutes.
Just soap and water in the sink, dry it, then into the hot wax.

Only advantage of wax is no greasy hands when handling.

That's a HUGE Advantage for me.
Not just the greasy hands (and pant cuffs), but also the Entire drive-line is greasy crud free.


These are pictures of my e-bike before I washed it,..

Completely Covered in dust, but No Greasy Crud.

And after a simple spray with the hose (with no soap),..

Even the derailleur works better without all the buildup of tar-like grease all over the plastic cog wheels and all the moving parts of the derailleur.


I even spent $10 for a new High End bike chain for my old POS ebike, and an hour cleaning and waxing it simply to have a clean chain, pant cuffs, and hands after I drop the chain.

Gotta love the High-End brand name SHUIMAO bike chain.


My old chain was all rusted to Hell, so I greased it with chainsaw oil, but then I was getting rusty greasy oil everywhere.

Well worth the $10, and an hour or so cleaning off the packed on crud from the sprockets, chain wheel, and derailleur.

My old ebike feels Brand New !!
It even goes faster.

 

[PCeBiker]

This is why I don't wax my chains. If it gets 10% less life, so be it.

If I get 50% Less life Because I waxed my chain, it would still be worth it to me.

Dirty, greasy chains just plain Suck !!


I saved the Camp Fuel (naphtha) and Acetone to use on my next chain,..


The camp fuel was clear before having the brand new chain added.
It's already starting to settle with the crud sinking to the bottom.

I'll use it a few times before filtering the crud outta it.
It's only for the first stage of a deep cleanse.


The Acetone remained Completely Clear.
It doesn't even have an oily taste to it.

 

[PCeBiker]

I just spent 5 hours cleaning and waxing one of my new e8 chains,..

This is why I don't wax my chains. If it gets 10% less life, so be it.

I spent A Lot of time fartin around trying to figure out a method and technique to clean and wax the chain.

Even lifting the chain outta the wax is a PITA because the damn chain keeps getting all twisted up, and it's too hot to hold with your fingers.

There's drops of wax all over my stove, and floor, and countertop.

They do sell a hot wax, chain waxing device that would probably make things a lot faster and easier.
It would take a lot of the guesswork out of it.
(Digital thermostat)

(I don’t see the value in buying the ultrasonic cleaning machine to get my chain the extra 2-3% cleaner)

 

[DaveMatthews]

That's why I use Squirt wax lube. Easy peasy...
Yes I had to do the deep clean first, but after that it's smooth sailing.

 

[PCeBiker]

That's why I use Squirt wax lube. Easy peasy...
Yes I had to do the deep clean first, but after that it's smooth sailing.

Yeah, I've got T-9 for "topping up" between annual chain cleanings, and waxings.

The chain is so clean that I'm considering getting a dual chainring for the mid-drive motor,..

Or,.. I could use this offset 42 tooth chainring with my 52 tooth chainring on top of it ,..

The 42T offset chainring will straighten out the chain line for the low gears, and the 52T chainring will be offset the other way (by the thickness of the 42T chainring) to straighten out the chain line for the high gears.



I don't need a front derailleur.
I'd just grab the chain and put it on the chainring I want to use.

The 52 tooth would be for going Really Really Fast (20 mph), and the 42 tooth would be for climbing Really Big Hills.

(There's no hills for me, but I could plow into a Gail force wind, at the 32 kph speed limit. )

 

[Gionnirocket]

You spend far too much time yanking your chain

 

[PedalUma]

I just took off the old chain. The bike has been through a set of tires since I last replaced the chain and 11-34 freewheel. What is great is that the old chain still looks new, the drivetrain it totally clean, and handling the old chain was mess-free.

 

[PCeBiker]

I run a piece of coat hanger through a chain at several points.

That's a good idea.
I was struggling with trying to hook in at one spot on the chain.

What is great is that the old chain still looks new, the drivetrain it totally clean, and handling the old chain was mess-free.

That's the part that means everything to me.
I don't hesitate at all to handle a waxed chain.

I had been dealing with greasy chains, hands, and pant cuffs since I was a kid.

 

[PCeBiker]

Are you going to pick up the waxing sideline?

No, I just heard about it a few years ago and thought I'd give it a try.
I do all my own work on my ebikes (including All Kinds of unnecessary stuff. ) but I don't want to work on anyone else's ebike.

@PCeBiker, You know how a BBS02 comes with a chainguard covering the chainring. That can easily be removed and replaced with another differently sized chainring using the original ringbolts.

Yeah, I've been looking into the different options.
I can get a "Spider" that mounts to the motor, then mount different sized chainrings to it.

But that 42T offset chainring looks pretty , and with my 52T chainring on top of it, I should have a pretty straight chain line for both chainrings, especially if I don't need to use 8th gear at 20 mph?


I ordered my mid-drive with a 36T chainring (flat, no offset), but the chain was scrubbing on the motor housing, so I decided to just get the "standard" Bafang 52T steel chainring for it.

I can still use the 36T chainring if I use spacers for clearance.
I actually bought a spacer, but didn't install it.

I'm pretty sure that my 36T chainring would work with a thinner 10 or 12-speed chain?
My 8 speed chain is pretty sloppy on the fat-skinny chainring teeth.

I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with it?


I'm not sure how my 52T chain wheel is going to work out, but with my 20 mph speed limit, I may not need to use or wear out my 8th gear?

My cadence is irrelevant, so I'd like to get my motor spun up to the most efficient RPM.
I may not need to use my smallest cog, at 20 mph to do that?


One thing that I noticed is that there's Huge drag on the clutch when I'm not pedaling, so I think my hub-drive is going to be my "go-to" motor?

The clutch might loosen up a little with time, but with my hub-drive pushing the ebike, the entire drive-line, and mid-drive motor sits idle, so the mid-drive is just dead weight being carried around.

I was out for another ride today, and everything feels fine.
I can ride no-hands as easily as ever, in fact maybe even easier?

The wind gusts have a harder time knocking me off-line with more inertia on my side.
It tracks straighter and smoother.
(Especially with my tires now properly inflated to 32 psi instead of the 42 psi maximum. )

You know how a BBS02 comes with a chainguard covering the chainring.

I'm not too keen on the plastic chaingaurd, and I'm really not impressed with the plastic motor housing.


My Voltbike came with Bash Guards to protect the chainring and chain,..

 

[PCeBiker]

I just checked my chainring and it turns out to be a 46T.
It's the same as the original.

It was my first ebike that had the 52T chainring.


So, I decided to spend another $90 and bought a 42T chainring with a 14mm offset, and a 52T regular Bafang steel chainring, with a 6.5mm offset to stack on top of it.

I'm going to need longer bolts, but I want to make sure I get the proper hardened steel hex bolts.

I'm pretty sure that I need 5mm bolts (the chainrings are drilled for 5mm).

I'm thinking maybe brake caliper bolts would be the right choice?

I'll be able to reduce the offset of the 52T chainring by the thickness of the 42T chainring, and I can add the spacer as well.
That will give lots of clearance between the chainrings for the chain.



I just found this on AliExpress:
Bafang BBS01B BBS02B Mid Motor Chain Wheel Chainring 44T 46T 48T 52T Electric Bicycle Conversions 8FUN Parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMNSkD9

I just found this on AliExpress:
BAFANG 42T/44T/46T Chain Wheel for BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid-drive Motor Chainring Sprocket Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit Parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPp4Kmf

 

[spokewrench]

If I get 50% Less life Because I waxed my chain, it would still be worth it to me.

Dirty, greasy chains just plain Suck !!


I saved the Camp Fuel (naphtha) and Acetone to use on my next chain,..


The camp fuel was clear before having the brand new chain added.
It's already starting to settle with the crud sinking to the bottom.

I'll use it a few times before filtering the crud outta it.
It's only for the first stage of a deep cleanse.

I switched to a Canadian dry lube because I hated getting grime on my pants or hands. I'd used that chain daily for more than a year, but I didn't clean it except to wipe it. It ran quieter than new.

I may have lubed 4 times in the next 18 months of daily riding. I'd apply a tiny drop to each side of each pin, then wipe the next day. Handling the chain would leave a waxy gray film on my hands, but it kept looking clean. After thousands of miles, I soaked the coiled chain in gasoline in a coffee can with a couple of layers of wire mesh on the bottom. It took very little gasoline to cover the chain. I'd shake it periodically. The next day, I took the chain and mesh out, then let the covered can sit a couple of hours for solids to settle. I slowly poured off the gasoline, then let the tiny bit of sludge dry. It was a powder that looked and felt like cocoa power. There was no trace of grit or oil. Besides preventing rust and not attracting dirt, using this lube had apparently gotten rid of the existing grime.

 

[PCeBiker]

Putting that new waxed chain on my bike made a world of difference.

The chain feels smoother after waxing, but I'm thinking that it may not be as efficient?
(riding on grass feels Really Smooth, but it uses up to 3 times the power than asphalt)

Even if it is, I don't care.
I've got two motors and two batteries on a 100# ebike.
A bit of chain friction ain't gunna make no difference to me.

I am removing a chainguard today and replacing it with a polished chainring, just for looks on a titanium bike with a silver painted motor.

I'm leaving my chaingaurd on.
It does serve a purpose (but it doesn't provide concrete curb protection)

I'm all about function over form, and the uglier and stupider my ebike looks, the better.

Who'd wanna steal sumthing so stupid?

It's just a Shitty Shitty Bafang Bafang.
Complete Garbage as Stephan would attest to.

My chainline has always been sitting idle.

This new mid-drive keeps the chain moving even when I'm not pedaling.

I don’t want a toothed chaingaurd grabbing my pant cuff and feeding my leg into the motor.

I'd rather have no chaingaurd than one that's specifically designed to feed me to 750 Watt motor.

That's just stupid.

Then I can install its chain as the final step.

Yeah me too.
I'm still using my old chain till I get my s*it together.

 

[PCeBiker]

I switched to a Canadian dry lube because I hated getting grime on my pants or hands.

That's why I use Squirt wax lube. Easy peasy...
Yes I had to do the deep clean first, but after that it's smooth sailing.

I probably could have just gave my new chain a good cleaning, and then used my T-9, but I've already spent over $100 on Parrafin Wax, Teflon Powder and Molybdenum Disulfide.

I really don't think that the 5 hours I spent was a waste of time and effort, and I Really Doubt that my new chain would have been better off Without my treatment and simply waxing each link with the T-9 instead.

But we'll never know.

I lack all kinds of empirical evidence for those that need that kinda s*it.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Me... I went for a 25mi ride.

 

[PCeBiker]

Me... I went for a 25mi ride.

I went for a 42.8 mile ride today,..

I only used my 25ah battery and made it home with electrons to spare.

I wonder how running my mid-drive would compare?

I'm not thinking very much difference ?
Maybe one or half a volt less remaining charge?

But we'll never know, because the riding conditions (especially the variable winds) will never be Exactly the same.

 

[6zfshdb]

If you don't pedal, why do you need a chain?