I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

[PCeBiker]

Are you going to pick up the waxing sideline?

No, I just heard about it a few years ago and thought I'd give it a try.
I do all my own work on my ebikes (including All Kinds of unnecessary stuff. ) but I don't want to work on anyone else's ebike.

@PCeBiker, You know how a BBS02 comes with a chainguard covering the chainring. That can easily be removed and replaced with another differently sized chainring using the original ringbolts.

Yeah, I've been looking into the different options.
I can get a "Spider" that mounts to the motor, then mount different sized chainrings to it.

But that 42T offset chainring looks pretty , and with my 52T chainring on top of it, I should have a pretty straight chain line for both chainrings, especially if I don't need to use 8th gear at 20 mph?


I ordered my mid-drive with a 36T chainring (flat, no offset), but the chain was scrubbing on the motor housing, so I decided to just get the "standard" Bafang 52T steel chainring for it.

I can still use the 36T chainring if I use spacers for clearance.
I actually bought a spacer, but didn't install it.

I'm pretty sure that my 36T chainring would work with a thinner 10 or 12-speed chain?
My 8 speed chain is pretty sloppy on the fat-skinny chainring teeth.

I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with it?


I'm not sure how my 52T chain wheel is going to work out, but with my 20 mph speed limit, I may not need to use or wear out my 8th gear?

My cadence is irrelevant, so I'd like to get my motor spun up to the most efficient RPM.
I may not need to use my smallest cog, at 20 mph to do that?


One thing that I noticed is that there's Huge drag on the clutch when I'm not pedaling, so I think my hub-drive is going to be my "go-to" motor?

The clutch might loosen up a little with time, but with my hub-drive pushing the ebike, the entire drive-line, and mid-drive motor sits idle, so the mid-drive is just dead weight being carried around.

I was out for another ride today, and everything feels fine.
I can ride no-hands as easily as ever, in fact maybe even easier?

The wind gusts have a harder time knocking me off-line with more inertia on my side.
It tracks straighter and smoother.
(Especially with my tires now properly inflated to 32 psi instead of the 42 psi maximum. )

You know how a BBS02 comes with a chainguard covering the chainring.

I'm not too keen on the plastic chaingaurd, and I'm really not impressed with the plastic motor housing.


My Voltbike came with Bash Guards to protect the chainring and chain,..

 

[PCeBiker]

I just checked my chainring and it turns out to be a 46T.
It's the same as the original.

It was my first ebike that had the 52T chainring.


So, I decided to spend another $90 and bought a 42T chainring with a 14mm offset, and a 52T regular Bafang steel chainring, with a 6.5mm offset to stack on top of it.

I'm going to need longer bolts, but I want to make sure I get the proper hardened steel hex bolts.

I'm pretty sure that I need 5mm bolts (the chainrings are drilled for 5mm).

I'm thinking maybe brake caliper bolts would be the right choice?

I'll be able to reduce the offset of the 52T chainring by the thickness of the 42T chainring, and I can add the spacer as well.
That will give lots of clearance between the chainrings for the chain.



I just found this on AliExpress:
Bafang BBS01B BBS02B Mid Motor Chain Wheel Chainring 44T 46T 48T 52T Electric Bicycle Conversions 8FUN Parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMNSkD9

I just found this on AliExpress:
BAFANG 42T/44T/46T Chain Wheel for BBS01B BBS02B BBSHD Mid-drive Motor Chainring Sprocket Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit Parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPp4Kmf

 

[PedalUma]

Putting that new waxed chain on my bike made a world of difference. I am removing a chainguard today and replacing it with a polished chainring, just for looks on a titanium bike with a silver painted motor. The custom wheels for it are due this week after three months of waiting. Then I can install its chain as the final step.

 

[spokewrench]

If I get 50% Less life Because I waxed my chain, it would still be worth it to me.

Dirty, greasy chains just plain Suck !!


I saved the Camp Fuel (naphtha) and Acetone to use on my next chain,..


The camp fuel was clear before having the brand new chain added.
It's already starting to settle with the crud sinking to the bottom.

I'll use it a few times before filtering the crud outta it.
It's only for the first stage of a deep cleanse.

I switched to a Canadian dry lube because I hated getting grime on my pants or hands. I'd used that chain daily for more than a year, but I didn't clean it except to wipe it. It ran quieter than new.

I may have lubed 4 times in the next 18 months of daily riding. I'd apply a tiny drop to each side of each pin, then wipe the next day. Handling the chain would leave a waxy gray film on my hands, but it kept looking clean. After thousands of miles, I soaked the coiled chain in gasoline in a coffee can with a couple of layers of wire mesh on the bottom. It took very little gasoline to cover the chain. I'd shake it periodically. The next day, I took the chain and mesh out, then let the covered can sit a couple of hours for solids to settle. I slowly poured off the gasoline, then let the tiny bit of sludge dry. It was a powder that looked and felt like cocoa power. There was no trace of grit or oil. Besides preventing rust and not attracting dirt, using this lube had apparently gotten rid of the existing grime.

 

[PedalUma]

 

[PCeBiker]

Putting that new waxed chain on my bike made a world of difference.

The chain feels smoother after waxing, but I'm thinking that it may not be as efficient?
(riding on grass feels Really Smooth, but it uses up to 3 times the power than asphalt)

Even if it is, I don't care.
I've got two motors and two batteries on a 100# ebike.
A bit of chain friction ain't gunna make no difference to me.

I am removing a chainguard today and replacing it with a polished chainring, just for looks on a titanium bike with a silver painted motor.

I'm leaving my chaingaurd on.
It does serve a purpose (but it doesn't provide concrete curb protection)

I'm all about function over form, and the uglier and stupider my ebike looks, the better.

Who'd wanna steal sumthing so stupid?

It's just a Shitty Shitty Bafang Bafang.
Complete Garbage as Stephan would attest to.

My chainline has always been sitting idle.

This new mid-drive keeps the chain moving even when I'm not pedaling.

I don’t want a toothed chaingaurd grabbing my pant cuff and feeding my leg into the motor.

I'd rather have no chaingaurd than one that's specifically designed to feed me to 750 Watt motor.

That's just stupid.

Then I can install its chain as the final step.

Yeah me too.
I'm still using my old chain till I get my s*it together.

 

[PCeBiker]

I switched to a Canadian dry lube because I hated getting grime on my pants or hands.

That's why I use Squirt wax lube. Easy peasy...
Yes I had to do the deep clean first, but after that it's smooth sailing.

I probably could have just gave my new chain a good cleaning, and then used my T-9, but I've already spent over $100 on Parrafin Wax, Teflon Powder and Molybdenum Disulfide.

I really don't think that the 5 hours I spent was a waste of time and effort, and I Really Doubt that my new chain would have been better off Without my treatment and simply waxing each link with the T-9 instead.

But we'll never know.

I lack all kinds of empirical evidence for those that need that kinda s*it.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Me... I went for a 25mi ride.

 

[PCeBiker]

Me... I went for a 25mi ride.

I went for a 42.8 mile ride today,..

I only used my 25ah battery and made it home with electrons to spare.

I wonder how running my mid-drive would compare?

I'm not thinking very much difference ?
Maybe one or half a volt less remaining charge?

But we'll never know, because the riding conditions (especially the variable winds) will never be Exactly the same.

 

[6zfshdb]

If you don't pedal, why do you need a chain?

 

[spokewrench]

I'm leaving my chaingaurd on.
It does serve a purpose (but it doesn't provide concrete curb protection)

I'm all about function over form, and the uglier and stupider my ebike looks, the better.

Who'd wanna steal sumthing so stupid?



I don’t want a toothed chaingaurd grabbing my pant cuff and feeding my leg into the motor.

I'd rather have no chaingaurd than one that's specifically designed to feed me to 750 Watt motor.

That's just stupid.

Is your chainguard the smooth ring outboard of the chain ring? I did something like that with my Radrunner. I got a bigger chainring, multiplied the diameter by pi, cut a length of maybe 1/2" vinyl tubing that long, slit it lengthwise, worked it over the teeth, and secured it with little zip ties. I fastened the bigger, smoother, softer chainring outboard of the driving sprocket.

My Radmission came with a similar outer disk. I don't know if it ever worked, but I know it didn't always work. The chainring could snatch my cuff if I forgot to wear my elastic velcro strap. It looked enough like a conventional bike that I bought a universal chainguard. There was no way to fit it.

I cut my own from a piece of 3mm polyethylene lawn and garden edging. I used a heat gun to bend it and a thermostatic soldering pencil to make holes for big zip ties. Never again did my cuff get snatched.

 

[Gionnirocket]

What's with you guys?
Are you riding wearing bell_bottoms?

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm more than willing to spend close to $1000 CAD to buy a seat that works for me,..

I don't like sitting up straight, and I have little use for handlebars.

A seat like this might work for me?
I can mount the seat stanchions to my rear rack,..

I've already got gas filled stanchions from my car that I can use.
They appear to be about the right length ??




My gas charged stanchions will help to control the pulsing of the rear rack bouncing into my back, as the seat moves in and out and up and down.

If you don't pedal, why do you need a chain?

The chain keeps moving, when I don't pedal.

That can pull my leg into the motor, and rip my leg off,..

A $550 dollar seat can save me from a sure death,..

 

[spokewrench]

I love the recurve of my seat, and it didn't cost nearly $550.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you don't pedal, why do you need a chain?

I don't need a chain, and my hub-drive doesn't need a chain, but my new mid-drive needs a chain,. and sprockets, and a Big Chainring to go Really Really Fast.
And a tiny Chainring to go Really Really Slow with lots of torque.

 

[PedalUma]

@PCeBiker has a Bafang mid-drive. It can be ghost pedaled or used by the throttle but still the power needs to be transmitted from the middle of the bike to the rear wheel.

 

[PCeBiker]

@PCeBiker has a Bafang mid-drive. It can be ghost pedaled or used by the throttle but still the power needs to be transmitted from the middle of the bike to the rear wheel.

I have a Bafang mid-drive and a Bafang hub-drive.

I used the hub-drive today,..
The mid-drive is broken.

I only used one battery today.
I gots two batteries

 

[PedalUma]

Broken in what way?

 

[PCeBiker]

Broken in what way?

My 1-4 cable.
You know that.

My new cable is two days away

 

[spokewrench]

In the US, there's always a Dollar General within a mile. In the event of trouble, I can buy a new motor, cable, and propeller for $15 and have the manager install it. My LiFePO4 will supply full power for 45 hours. At 40 mph, that's a range of 1800 miles, or 900 miles if I intend to get back home. It's amphibious, with inflatable pontoons and a crank-down shark-fin keel. I really need to reinstall my boat horn in case the Coast Guard boards me. So far I've evaded them by using my hub motor to spray water onto their windshield so they can't see me, but if I keep it up, one foggy day I'll encounter a 440-foot cutter across my bow, firing 20mm warning shots.