I finally took my ebike for a test ride.

[PCeBiker]

Each PAS after that pretty much just increased the cadence before the motor would feather power

If Either Of My Motors wants to get all feathery and gutless I'll just crank up the PAS mode up to nine.

This was my final setup.... But I pedal'd

I didn't pedal because it rubs my principals sideways, but I did ride for over two hours today.

I had a good day even though I can only go thirty two

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'm too anal.... I'd have to have the displays one just left and one just right of center.
To keep things interesting.. I'd swap the throttles. So left throttle would be tied to the right display

 

[PCeBiker]

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm too anal.... I'd have to have the displays one just left and one just right of center.

Nope, the hub-drive display is in the middle and always will be.

The mid-drive display is now on the right of the central hub display.

Unfortunately, the mid-drive screen is now dead and has nothing to say


I shall try to revive my mid-drive motor with a new mid-drive cable.

If that don't work, I'll remove my mid-drive motor, and properly Smash the Living SH!T Outta it.

That aughta teach it to mess with someone with a BBS02B programming cable.!!!@?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Pin it out. . .

 

[6zfshdb]

I concur... I've never had a problem with freewheels. Unless you need more 8 gears or really need specific sizes they work perfectly fine.


I'm a big fan of just tucking cable slack in a frame bag.

View attachment 211948

View attachment 211949

It's neat, easy to work on and there's usually enough room left for things like gloves and glasses.
Best part is... it saves on gallons of silicone grease

I just fold the cable back on itself under the spiral wrap to loose the slack. No risk of snagging on anything and easy to access when necessary.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I just fold the cable back on itself under the spiral wrap to loose the slack. No risk of snagging on anything and easy to access when necessary.

I've done that but with the Bafangs you have 4 cable connections in close proximity with varying amounts of slack. I never liked how it bundled. With the frame bag being multi purpose... I prefer the overall outcome.
In the latest reiteration, I also have a 12v cable to feed a pair of USB fast charging ports and a tap for future hand grip warmers... so as the nest grows it's easy to work on and keep neat.
And not that it's necessary.. but the bag also keeps the connections dry and dust free. . .

 

[Gionnirocket]

I moved the mid-drive display to the other side of the bars, and I was getting it spiral wrapped (keeping in mind the front brake line flex) when I thought I'd plug everything in and test it.

Nothing.
The display will not light up and do it's start up routine.
Dead.

Not enough silicone grease?

 

[PCeBiker]

Not enough silicone grease? View attachment 211991

I did think about lubing the cable with something, but then dust and crud sticks to it. It gets inside the downtube.

 

[PCeBiker]

Pin it out. . .

I'm not going to bother.
I'm just going to assume that I broke a wire inside the cable.
A new cable was less than twenty bucks.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I did think about lubing the cable with something, but then dust and crud sticks to it. It gets inside the downtube.

When I need to lube something temporarily... I use a little isopropyl alcohol. It's pretty slippery and then just evaporates.

 

[PCeBiker]

Set the throttle start current low.. an amp or two
In practice if you tap PAS up while pedaling it will accelerate faster

I remember setting the throttle gear power (or whatever it's called?) to something like one amp for 1st gear then ramped it up slowly.

It appears to work with throttle power too.
I just give it full throttle then I tap the PAS up button.

I programmed it months ago and kinda forget.
I didn't check the settings or plug in the programming cable this time, and only ran the motor for a few minutes.

I noticed that I need to adjust my derailleur cable. My gears are clacking.

Maybe set your global current low until you get a feel for things....

I'm not sure what was going on, but I didn't have my speed sensor hooked up, so the speedometer was reading zero.

But the motor seemed like it was speed limited?
I could see the current draw drop off when it a certain speed, and it seemed like the same speed in any gear?

I guess I could have just reached the maximum revolutions per volt.
It seemed like it was going faster than 32 kph

 

[Gionnirocket]

With no speed sensor I'm surprised it didn't throw an error 21... typically shutting off assistance.
Not sure what's going... post your settings

 

[PCeBiker]

With no speed sensor I'm surprised it didn't throw an error 21... typically shutting off assistance.

I managed to get it going with only the throttle, battery, and display hooked up?
I do intend to hook up the speed sensor but I didn't need it connected for the test ride.

There may have been an error code showing, but I didn't notice it, and I didn't get shut down. (It just felt it was speed limited or something?)
I don't know what's going on?

Not sure what's going... post your settings

I'm gunna have to wait until my new 1-4 cable arrives to hopefully get a look at my settings.

Fortunately, I can easily test the new cable without fully installing it.

I'm gunna be A Lot more careful with the new cable.
Maybe I'll just wrap the extra length around the steering tube and tack it in place with hot glue or something?

I hope I didn't short out the controller?
That would suck.

 

[PCeBiker]

I remember setting the throttle gear power (or whatever it's called?) to something like one amp for 1st gear then ramped it up slowly.

I thought that I posted some pictures of my settings using the SPEEED app, and just found my post from last December,..

Bafang BBSxx series, Apple Mac access to programming!!

Please note that the Ultra controller uses the same programing software the BBSxx series uses. If it works on a BBSxx, it will work on an Ultra. That said, I know you don't mess with Ultra's, and never mentioned Ultra anywhere. I did not know that the new production BBSxx series motors were...

forums.electricbikereview.com

I managed to change my settings in less than 10 minutes using the SPEED app.

It was so fast and easy that I forgot what settings I chose.
I barely remember changing the settings.




I also turned my power Way Down on my first ebike with the KT controller and display that I installed.
I chose something like 75 watts for "1st Throttle Gear" (out of 6 "throttle gears" I think?)


It worked great for doing 3 point turns on a trail or something.
It was just enough power and speed to push my ebike forward at a crawl without having to push the ebike.

I was on a trail once and tried to turn around.
There wasn't enough power to get the ebike rolling, but I could feel it push.
After about 3 seconds, the controller shut off the power, because the controller saw no "data" from the speed sensor magnets in the motor.

So it's idiot proof in that you can't "stall" the motor for more than a few seconds.

I assume the BBS02B will be the same, and it's got some way of knowing if the motor is rotating, and will shut down the power if I "stall" it?

I've got 9 PAS levels to use, so I don't mind "wasting" 1st gear for going stupid slow, like moving my ebike inside the house, or doing a 3-point turn on a trail.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Well like I said a frame bag helps a lot with wire management. Mine is on my handlebars.
And they're super cheap... Like $5 - $8


Controller is probably fine... I'd bet the cable is damaged, they're not the most robust.

 

[Gionnirocket]

SPEEED APP is great and I feel the best interface. I do like using a laptop too as it's easier to save and compare files. Too bad the developer disappeared. He said he was working on a Bluetooth interface but it never materialized.

On your settings for throttle (pic 4)
I'd lower the start current and change the MODE from Speed to Current

 

[PCeBiker]

On your settings for throttle (pic 4)
I'd lower the start current and change the MODE from Speed to Current

Yeah, that was the first setting I changed.

It's pretty much the same thing as the "Imitation Torque Control" for a KT controller.
Power based control over speed based.

I didn't know it, but Bafang has been doing "Power" based control for forever.

I think that the KT "Imitation Torque Control" is a copy of the old-school Bafang power vs. speed based control?

Well like I said a frame bag helps a lot with wire management. Mine is on my handlebars.
And they're super cheap... Like $5 - $8

I keep forgetting that I don't have to swap batteries anymore.
I just have to swap the connector on the top tube,..

I've got half a dozen different bags that I can use,..

I was hesitating to "install" the grey Rockbros "triangle" bag because I didn't want to strap it to the downtube, then have to unstrap it every time I swapped batteries.
And I was hesitant to glue it to the downtube figuring it wouldn't stay stuck?

So now that I don't have to swap the batteries every ride, I can strap, and glue it to the downtube.

It's long enough to fit my 13" shock pump inside,..

And I'm having clearance issues with my new rack and the new seat with the backrest,..

The backrest bracket was hitting the tubular rail on the Topeak Rack, so I had to unscrew it and flip it around backwards.
So now I can't install the Topeak Rack Bag.

I can still probably get it installed "permanently" but the backrest hits it.

The backrest bracket was even getting close to the Coke Bottle with water, so I had to move it further back.

I do like my new seat, but the backrest is hitting my tailbone, not my lower back.
It still feels better and keeps me from sliding off my seat backwards.

I can still get some tools attached to the rack and have clearance for the seat and backrest, which is all I really care about.
I was carrying some basic tools and my shock pump in my jacket, so getting some supplies "permanently" carried on the ebike somewhere is all I really care about.

I used to carry way too many tools with me for my first years, and only ever used a few zip ties a couple times.

I've found that a big length mechanics wire is better for "emergency" repairs.
I can just wrap a big length around the rack to store it.

I still carry my Crank Brothers multi-tool, my Leatherman multi-tool, and a big coil of vinyl coated wire (gardening wire from the dollar store) in my jacket pockets when I ride.

 

[PCeBiker]

I have used those Drift Mechanic freewheels for six or seven-years. Unlike many, they are not forged from soft ripened stinky cheese, or pot metal, or whatever.

I was impressed with the Drift Maniac freewheel.
It weighed "a ton" compared to the original, which I saw as a good thing.


I ended up taking the original freewheel apart to investigate.
It was a little stuck, so I put the heat gun to it to help me get it apart.

I Melted The Plastic Spacers between the gear cogs !!?? WTF!!??

As far as I'm concerned, using plastic in a freewheel is just stupid.
Does aluminum cost too much??

In fairness, the freewheel is from a hub motor, and should only see the power and torque delivered by the rider, which is like 100 watts or so, but if I were in granny gear, standing on the pedals, "pumping" with all my weight up a steep incline, the freewheel is going to see A LOT of pressure.

Plastic has no place inside a freewheel !!

 

[PedalUma]

I was impressed with the Drift Maniac freewheel.
It weighed "a ton" compared to the original, which I saw as a good thing.


I ended up taking the original freewheel apart to investigate.
It was a little stuck, so I put the heat gun to it to help me get it apart.

I Melted The Plastic Spacers between the gear cogs !!?? WTF!!??

As far as I'm concerned, using plastic in a freewheel is just stupid.
Does aluminum cost too much??

In fairness, the freewheel is from a hub motor, and should only see the power and torque delivered by the rider, which is like 100 watts or so, but if I were in granny gear, standing on the pedals, "pumping" with all my weight up a steep incline, the freewheel is going to see A LOT of pressure.

Plastic has no place inside a freewheel !!

Yes, it says "Shimano" yet that shite is garbage. The sifters and cables and housings and derailleurs too, trash. All like a fat folder that is $599. People who don't know look at advertised speed, advertised range, and lowest initial cost. Then they see curtailed and curated 'reviews'. All of a place that has no location, and no local track record.