Hydraulic Brake Troubles

Cowlitz

Well-Known Member
I rode my Gazelle to the grocery store. It was fine, all systems worked. Oh, the temperature was about 26 degrees F. I don't think I've ever ridden it in the cold. Anyway, came out and started home and I hardly had any rear brakes. I had to squeeze hard and they just weren't grabbing well. They are caliper brakes.

I'm wondering if the hydraulic stuff got too cold? Or what else could be the problem? 3100 trouble free miles on this bike.
 
I rode my Gazelle to the grocery store. It was fine, all systems worked. Oh, the temperature was about 26 degrees F. I don't think I've ever ridden it in the cold. Anyway, came out and started home and I hardly had any rear brakes. I had to squeeze hard and they just weren't grabbing well. They are caliper brakes.

I'm wondering if the hydraulic stuff got too cold? Or what else could be the problem? 3100 trouble free miles on this bike.
Mineral oil shouldn't freeze at such a temperature. It should be something else.
 
Could it be a build up of slush? Maybe let it thaw and clean the surfaces. Usually it is the opposite with hydraulic brakes. In high temperatures at altitude and with heavy use, they will form bubbles in the lines and become mushy or fail.
 
Changing hydro fluid is a huge pain to do right the first dozen times. Yes, some videos make it look as easy as a cooking show. It is not and is a big mess. If you are not a hardcore mechanic, take it to a bike shop.
 
Could it be a build up of slush? Maybe let it thaw and clean the surfaces. Usually it is the opposite with hydraulic brakes. In high temperatures at altitude and with heavy use, they will form bubbles in the lines and become mushy or fail.
Nope. Roads were dry. I'll try it out tomorrow, unless we get snow tonight. A bit of the white death is predicted.
 
Nope. Roads were dry. I'll try it out tomorrow, unless we get snow tonight. A bit of the white death is predicted.
A little pre-testing and cleaning will go a long way before the trial. There may be something clearly amiss, you will find with a brief inspection.
 
Were the levers compressing down to the handlebars? For some reason it seems that letting a bike sit for an extended period can make fluid go away. Thats not whats happening but it seems like a description of the problem. I just put my enduro back into service and its MT5e brakes - which I know backwards and forwards - have a rear brake lever compressing waaaay down to near the handlebar. It needs at least a quickee top reservoir bleed to refill it. I've seen it happen a couple times before after a layover on different bikes, and there's no leakage visible anywhere or residue on any parts. So it just ... escaped?

But as @PedalUma noted, bleeding is something of a black art and doesn't become straightforward and simple until you have done it a few times AND you have the right bleed kit and procedure down... not the worst idea to go to the LBS and let them do it. If you opt into learning the skill - which I am always in favor of provided you are up for a challenge - do your homework first and get the right tools for the job as well as spare pads, brake blocks. Alignment shims... Not as intimidating as it sounds but this is a job that needs to be done right or you could end up with no pad compression... or oil-greased pads.
 
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Were the levers compressing down to the handlebars? For some reason it seems that letting a bike sit for an extended period can make fluid go away. Thats not whats happening but it seems like a description of the problem. I just put my enduro back into service and its MT5e brakes - which I know backwards and forwards - have a rear brake lever compressing waaaay down to near the handlebar. It needs at least a quickee top reservoir bleed to refill it. I've seen it happen a couple times before after a layover on different bikes, and there's no leakage visible anywhere or residue on any parts. So it just ... escaped?

But as @PedalUma noted, bleeding is something of a black art and doesn't become straightforward and simple until you have done it a few times AND you have the right bleed kit and procedure down... not the worst idea to go to the LBS and let them do it. If you opt into learning the skill - which I am always in favor of provided you are up for a challenge - do your homework first and get the right tools for the job as well as spare pads, brake blocks. Alignment shims... Not as intimidating as it sounds but this is a job that needs to be done right or you could end up with no pad compression... or oil-greased pads.
Yup, the lever was doing that. My bike was sitting for maybe a week? Not long.

I'll probably end up hauling it over to the not very local bike shop.
 
This article may be helpful. I would test it on a stand in the garage/home and see if the problem persists in warmer temps. It looks like DOT is better than mineral oil in extreme cold, IE much colder than what you are describing.
 
Should have mentioned - carefully look at your brake and slowly pull in your brake lever and see if the pads are both moving inward and contacting the rotor. If they both move in and contact the rotor at the normal point in the levers movement that helps rule out issues with pad hanging up on one side, etc. This will lead you toward a fluid issues. I know others have mentioned changing fluid is just short of voodoo, but with a simple brake bleeding kit, a few videos and patience it really is not that hard. Last trials motorcycle I bought I got for 1k cheaper because the rear brake was "bad and needed replaced." Took about an hour and half to tear it down, clean it up and bleed the system. After that it would stop on a dime. Worse case is try and bleed it yourself and if you cant get it then take it to a shop to have done. May save you a trip and a few bucks
 
I think that in this case, taking it to a bike shop is the answer.
That said and going onto the more technical side, one major problem is that hydraulic fluid has dissolved gasses in it including water vapor. Even fresh fluid has dissolved gasses, and always use fresh fluid! I like to use DOT 5.1 after a system flush. (Too bad that DOT 5 can never be used in a system that has been exposed to other types.) DOT 5 is highly resistant to heat. Another problem is dealing with caliper piston seals. These seals should ideally be cleaned before compression. I like to use O-ring lube on them. If compressed while dirty this can make the piston leak and put crud into the lines. Piston seals may leak anyway. Different types of brakes each have advantages and drawbacks. IMOP, hydro discs are more appropriate for race day and for a daily rider. Marketers know that people think 'hydro' must be better. That is why they are on so many bikes where the might not be most appropriate for the application.
 
What is the rotor? I have caliper brakes, no discs. It looks like one side is moving and the other side is not.

Roads are too slick for a road test and it might stay that way for a bit.

Adjust the little screws on the v brake. For the one that isn't moving rotate screw clockwise.
 
Got ya - presumed you had disks. My bad. If one side is moving and not the other that is most likely where the issue is. Follow what RCCARGUY said and that should help resolve the issue.
 
If you have wired cable V brakes then the only thing I can think of is the cables are not in compressionless housings and you are losing torque thru cable flex. Definitely a job for a shop unless by me saying that you know what to do next.
 
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