Hydra as a commuter?

[loamoaf]

Be careful where the stand over height is measured.
It should be measured 6" in front of the saddle which is where you will be if you dismount.
Last time I asked, at that location the stand over height will be more like 82.5cm or 32.5"

That's insane for a 'small' frame size! My 19" (Large) HT bike is about 31.5" and the top tube is much higher up on the seat tube than the Hydra's. My 18" E06 frame is 30" with monster 29x3's and a ~50mm taller crown-to-axle (and a 4mm longer rear shock length which also raises the back a teensy bit) - for reference the E06 is available in 16", 18", and 20" frames so I got the 'medium' option. I did recall seeing someone refer to the Hydra large frame as a clydesdale but dang it sounds like all the frames are on the larger size.

I think one issue with the E06 frame is the the linkage pivot on the seat tube is just a smidge too close to the center of the tube, preventing you from sliding a seat/dropper post past it. Maybe the safer option as there is a bend in the frame and stopping my smashing the end or corner of the post into the frame wall isn't as ideal. I can only fit a 120mm PNW dropper in the max depth, which is just tall enough for me and gets just low enough to get my feet on the ground while on the saddle. If I had went with Bikeyoke I could have managed the 125mm and a lower minimum height.

Not sure what kind of clearance you have in the Hydra but I like the smallest comfortable frame (reach, primarily) then the highest travel dropper you can squeeze alllll the way down into the seat tube - at least for mountainbiking. Commuting is a little different but I've got tons of hills here and being able to get back over the rear is still really nice.

This is why I like when there's a frame geo/diagram on the product page. IIRC WW did used to have this on the page for the Hydra... a step-thru like Frey, R+M, or Helios would be pretty sweet, but I'm going to give it time before I take another leap of faith with them right now.

 

[scrambler]

Just make sure you are actually measuring 6" in front of the seat in its low position.
The specs given on sites are often the lowest point of the Top tube where it meets the seat tube, which is misleading as you can never stand in that location (unless your seat is high enough that the saddle tip is behind that point).
Ultimately I am looking forward for someone to take delivery of a Small Hydra so we can double check all that
Until then, I am waiting for the Helios to materialize

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm seriously looking at a Hydra, but even after all this time I'm still hoping the Helios makes it into production. The Helios would definitely be my first choice.
My wife, bless her heart, suggested that I get the Hydra (to replace my UC Pro) and then buy the Helios when it finally arrives.

 

[Deacon Blues]

Just make sure you are actually measuring 6" in front of the seat in its low position.
The specs given on sites are often the lowest point of the Top tube where it meets the seat tube, which is misleading as you can never stand in that location (unless your seat is high enough that the saddle tip is behind that point).
Ultimately I am looking forward for someone to take delivery of a Small Hydra so we can double check all that
Until then, I am waiting for the Helios to materialize

Pushkar and I did some texting today. One of the questions I asked him was the standover height for the small Hydra frame. He replied that the S.O. height for the small would work with someone who's 5'6", with a 28" inseam.
Looks like I'm going with a Hydra.

Here's the setup I'm considering:
1. SKS fenders for those days when the roads are wet (where I live that's October to May).
2. Probably Johnny Watts tires for a good off-road and pavement combo.
3. I have a couple of seatpost bags that will allow me to carry enough stuff for most rides.
a. https://www.arkel-od.com/seatpacker-9-bikepacking-seat-bag/ (don't be shocked by the price.....Canadian dollars
b. https://www.arkel-od.com/arkel-randonneur-rack/
c. https://www.arkel-od.com/tailrider-bicycle-rack-bag/

I've used 'a' on my carbon road bike for 3 years and I'm really happy with it.
I've used 'b/c' on my e-gravel bike and have also been very happy with it
I think either would work well on a Hydra.

 

[loamoaf]

I have SKS Veloflexx 55 fenders on a bike and am pretty happy with them. Super adjustable to fit any frame and easily removed, the black ABS looks nice and won't deform if it takes a hit (or a crash/luge ride downhill on a frozen street...)

Don't feel bad about the price Deacon, I'm in the queue for a Rockgeist bag and they're not cheap either... the best thing you can do to heal that pain is to spend more money on something nice for yourself!

 

[kwseattle]

Since the new UC Pro frames are still in a closed factory somewhere in the far East, and it could be a (long) while until they arrive a Pushkar's shop, I've decided to go with a Hydra.
Pushkar's checking out what he has that's available in a size small. I figure at my height (5'7") and inseam (30.5") the small would be a good fit. Comments anyone?

I guess what pushed me over the decision 'edge' was the unboxing video I just watch of a Hydra, in a beautiful flat green colour.
The video itself was pretty boring, but the bike was beautiful.
Video:

Still in the planning stage, but my goal is to have a mountain bike with some street riding ability, which will mean an all-purpose tire like the Continental eRuban plus or Johnny Watts and some sort of fender setup. I won't need fenders for the summer, but in the fall, winter, and spring it rains A LOT where I live.

SKS Mudrocker rear and Crud XL front fenders are amazing in Seattle, hardly get any mud on myself when riding trails. I don't ride in the rain much because bike electronics lol. I might get an SKS front fender since the Crud XL I have actually cracked, if I can't fix it with some strategic hole drilling and zipties I'll look at the SKS.

The medium for my height (5'9") is pretty huge, it says the reach is 480mm and it shipped with 810mm bars. I just trimmed the bars to 780mm a few days ago and it feels much better. Most enduro bikes I'm seeing are between 450-470 reach for the medium size frame. The small probably will fit you well.

Check out the racks at https://oldmanmountain.com/shop-bike-racks/, they actually mount to the axle (requires buying one of their axles too) so they have a significantly greater weight capacity and much sturdier build than the seatpost mounted racks!

 

[Deacon Blues]

That oldmanmountian rack looks very interesting.

 

[scrambler]

Pushkar and I did some texting today. One of the questions I asked him was the standover height for the small Hydra frame. He replied that the S.O. height for the small would work with someone who's 5'6", with a 28" inseam.
Looks like I'm going with a Hydra.

Here's the setup I'm considering:
1. SKS fenders for those days when the roads are wet (where I live that's October to May).
2. Probably Johnny Watts tires for a good off-road and pavement combo.
3. I have a couple of seatpost bags that will allow me to carry enough stuff for most rides.
a. https://www.arkel-od.com/seatpacker-9-bikepacking-seat-bag/ (don't be shocked by the price.....Canadian dollars
b. https://www.arkel-od.com/arkel-randonneur-rack/
c. https://www.arkel-od.com/tailrider-bicycle-rack-bag/

I've used 'a' on my carbon road bike for 3 years and I'm really happy with it.
I've used 'b/c' on my e-gravel bike and have also been very happy with it
I think either would work well on a Hydra.

Pushkar is the one who gave me the dimensions I gave you so not sure what to make of it....

 

[Deacon Blues]

Hopefully, there has to be someone on this forum who owns a small framed Hydra and can measure it for us.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

@Fast n' Furious https://titaniumplanet.com/ has several colorways for Ti bolts. I dropped about 400g from my bike's weight by swapping nearly every steel bolt with a Ti or hollow Ti replacement - depending on whether the bolt could be safely replaced. All the way down to the derailleur clutch axle and brake pad pins. They do indeed have blue. They have the brake line connector kit in stock now too which I think I'm going to order since it was one of the few things I didn't get the opportunity to get... best to measure all your stuff and buy in one go though as it ships from Switzerland. They also have an ebay store which you can buy with dollars if you get hit with unfavorable conversion. BetterBolts is another option for Ti stuff but I made the mistake of getting my rear brake caliper bolts from them (since they have the Ti cup washers I needed) and they are hex key instead of torx - for ease of use I'd like all my bolts to be consistent and use as few different bits as possible. I'm still trying to figure out a lightweight tool kit that's going to work for me for bikepacking. I have all the essentials for complete home service but Looking at something compact and has the essentials in one spot.View attachment 125486

I love a fanatic - down to the brake pins.
I'll certainly look at their stock.
My last batch of ti came from Wanyifa, a bunch of M6 an M8 hex-head fasteners.

Those two fuji, 'plate reel seats' (for 'next years '10'-6", surf-rod build'), I had to go worldwide and it took months.
Patience, teeth-a-gritting and 'oh, hell' because it was too late for this years build - after the devil came to town.
Some obsolete trade-agreement made trans-shipping the only alternative. Located a guy in China with a small tackle shop and a business relationship w/ the Japanese shops/ the trade lingua franca. He went above the call and hooked me up.
Now I tell him the numbers per the pictures in the catalog. Like magic I get any part I want worldwide.
So, when you talk about ordering direct, I feel ya.
There are LBS's in Taiwan that do the same thing.
-
I was all picky/ whiney over titanium 'colors' being 'indications of less strength (Job PTSD)'.
Puritanical BS on fasteners. It only affects a few microns - no more or less than most machine work when the part's made. lol.
On that note, I see my phone's camera - no flash - reflects the true color (straw) of most of the fasteners. The lens must enhance it because I took a shot of this key ti ring and it reflects the same 'straw' colors, yet it's actually 100% grey to the naked eye.
You can see it just a bit on this Stryder EDC's Titanium scales.
-
Oh, almost forgot. You mentioned 'ti torx' and I haven't purchased any but recall (a company I have used) the Pro-Titanium Store had torx in colored ti.
The other fasteners I've had good fortune with were on alibaba - not aliexpress - when I was buying in bulk.
-
Almost all spokes are made in China. Sapim says "All our spokes are produced in Sapim facility located in Europe and in Asia. In every production location we implemented an identical and strict quality control processes".
The PRC requires export manufacturers to provide the products being produced at fixed costs. Thus such products are substantially less expensive from their shops - if you know the difference and can spot counterfeit junk. Of course, now shipping costs are added in
-
Q: My spokes sound like banjo strings - weather varies. gets hot out they make occasional ping, ding, donk, ting, clink, dink sounds ... evasive to diagnose, but absolutely the culprit.
I wonder if I have too tight or some too loose? The bike has a 'V' stand like a motorcycle (love it too), so it's easy to freely spin the front wheel which to my eye appears to be true (although the rear is off a tad).
You build wheelsets and tension spokes. How? What tools do you recommend for simple, occasional but accurate tensioning?
-
&%*#@ it !!!
Now I hear China's locking down cities again. Must be serous, it causes oil futures to drop a buck.
I think China is contracting a lot more than they let on.

I said from the start, back in October 'you'll be lucky if you get this bike'.

I hate it when I'm right.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

@Fast n' Furious https://titaniumplanet.com/ has several colorways for Ti bolts. I dropped about 400g from my bike's weight by swapping nearly every steel bolt with a Ti or hollow Ti replacement - depending on whether the bolt could be safely replaced. All the way down to the derailleur clutch axle and brake pad pins. They do indeed have blue. They have the brake line connector kit in stock now too which I think I'm going to order since it was one of the few things I didn't get the opportunity to get... best to measure all your stuff and buy in one go though as it ships from Switzerland. They also have an ebay store which you can buy with dollars if you get hit with unfavorable conversion. BetterBolts is another option for Ti stuff but I made the mistake of getting my rear brake caliper bolts from them (since they have the Ti cup washers I needed) and they are hex key instead of torx - for ease of use I'd like all my bolts to be consistent and use as few different bits as possible. I'm still trying to figure out a lightweight tool kit that's going to work for me for bikepacking. I have all the essentials for complete home service but Looking at something compact and has the essentials in one spot.View attachment 125486

-
Anecdotally: a (stock) '23 soft iron rivet' attached ring-gear (having previously sheared off 2 x under load from the carrier).
I repaired using bolts 2 x strength bolts and they sheared again.
Okay, areo-space grade fasteners, problem resolved ... and never, no way, forget it are you gonna spin (even) the (shredded) ring gear from the carrier.
LSS, 'material data is (God and) what matters.
-
My present machine, I've replaced a lot of - grade unknown - bolts when Titanium was about double the price of good stainless.
It's still a bargain.


I took a shot of this key ti ring View attachment 125628 It reflects the same 'straw' colors, yet is 100% grey to the naked eye.
'Woo hoo', huh?

My UC (w/ Kindernay VII), will have (total) three Hydraulic lines to the rear (sigh. ugh. gotta get used to it. barf. gaack).
That's a reason I was leery of an IGH.
I'm thinking 'this is an improvement? A solenoid would weigh less; no tubes; could be wireless' ... and probably come out next year as a minor $900.00 upgrade.
It's that or the drivetrain maintenance and and I'd spend a lot more than just buying a Kindernay.

Since the new UC Pro frames are still in a closed factory somewhere in the far East, and it could be a (long) while until they arrive a Pushkar's shop, I've decided to go with a Hydra.
Pushkar's checking out what he has that's available in a size small. I figure at my height (5'7") and inseam (30.5") the small would be a good fit. Comments anyone?

I guess what pushed me over the decision 'edge' was the unboxing video I just watch of a Hydra, in a beautiful flat green colour.
The video itself was pretty boring, but the bike was beautiful.
Video:

Still in the planning stage, but my goal is to have a mountain bike with some street riding ability, which will mean an all-purpose tire like the Continental eRuban plus or Johnny Watts and some sort of fender setup. I won't need fenders for the summer, but in the fall, winter, and spring it rains A LOT where I live.

No IGH for you. LOL

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'd be interested in buying a well cared for UC or Titanium CT from a reasonable seller out there.
If you're in the market to sell, PM me.

 

[loamoaf]

@Fast n' Furious you can get a cheap spoke tension gauge online though it uses a chart and some conversion depending on the spoke cross section to figure the tension, but the pinging and popping almost sounds like the spokes were not destressed, or some have become a little loose. I just use a Park Tool spoke key. Wheel builders have long used linseed oil on spokes to keep nipples from turning when not wanted (and to prevent any corrosion) you can also use Spoke Prep which serves the same purpose - like a thread locker mixed with anti seize. I also greased the nipples so any twisting of the spoke or wiggling it may want to do the spoke and nipple rotate together (in theory) instead of the nipple being held still by the rim and the spoke wiggling its way loose. Destressing new spokes gets all the pings and pops out and it sounds horrible when you do it, which is why I just lace my wheels up to relative trueness and near(ish) the tension they need to be, and then let the LBS handle the rest. $20 to true and tension each wheel and a little more to have them destress the spokes. Cheap assurance that a professional handles it and still less than half the price of having them build the whole thing up. Also I've got two solid rim bed wheelsets and using a magnet and clipped spoke end to fish the nipples into the holes on the rim is a nightmare without beer, and I have no idea how much they would have hated me for having them deal with that bit. Plenty of spoke length calculators and videos for wheel building on the web, mostly just takes patience and the tools - of which the truing stand is by far the most expensive.

 

[Deacon Blues]

-
Anecdotally: a (stock) '23 soft iron rivet' attached ring-gear (having previously sheared off 2 x under load from the carrier).
I repaired using bolts 2 x strength bolts and they sheared again.
Okay, areo-space grade fasteners, problem resolved ... and never, no way, forget it are you gonna spin (even) the (shredded) ring gear from the carrier.
LSS, 'material data is (God and) what matters.
-
My present machine, I've replaced a lot of - grade unknown - bolts when Titanium was about double the price of good stainless.
It's still a bargain.


I took a shot of this key ti ring View attachment 125628 It reflects the same 'straw' colors, yet is 100% grey to the naked eye.
'Woo hoo', huh?

My UC (w/ Kindernay VII), will have (total) three Hydraulic lines to the rear (sigh. ugh. gotta get used to it. barf. gaack).
That's a reason I was leery of an IGH.
I'm thinking 'this is an improvement? A solenoid would weigh less; no tubes; could be wireless' ... and probably come out next year as a minor $900.00 upgrade.
It's that or the drivetrain maintenance and and I'd spend a lot more than just buying a Kindernay.




No IGH for you. LOL

Kindernay for me.
If you're interested in a used UC Pro you might want to give Pushkar a call, as my Medium (actually more like a large) UC Pro will become available when I get my Hydra.
Heck, I could ship the bike directly to you......

 

[Fast n' Furious]

-
Anecdotally: a (stock) '23 soft iron rivet' attached ring-gear (having previously sheared off 2 x under load from the carrier).
I repaired using bolts 2 x strength bolts and they sheared again.
Okay, areo-space grade fasteners, problem resolved ... and never, no way, forget it are you gonna spin (even) the (shredded) ring gear from the carrier.
LSS, 'material data is (God and) what matters.
-
My present machine, I've replaced a lot of - grade unknown - bolts when Titanium was about double the price of good stainless.
It's still a bargain.


I took a shot of this key ti ring View attachment 125628 It reflects the same 'straw' colors, yet is 100% grey to the naked eye.
'Woo hoo', huh?

My UC (w/ Kindernay VII), will have (total) three Hydraulic lines to the rear (sigh. ugh. gotta get used to it. barf. gaack).
That's a reason I was leery of an IGH.
I'm thinking 'this is an improvement? A solenoid would weigh less; no tubes; could be wireless' ... and probably come out next year as a minor $900.00 upgrade.
It's that or the drivetrain maintenance and and I'd spend a lot more than just buying a Kindernay.




No IGH for you. LOL

That's great Deacon. I see at the WW site: "Coming Soon" for the small size Hydra.
I'm cheering. You have owners like BB, Cuz and Loam-O laying down tons of accurate, reliable info on Hydra set-up and use.
Somebody bought that 'small' size Hydra that was recently available. Maybe it's posted elsewhere? I thought another member said they knew the factory. Maybe they have dimensions posted of their products.
Kindernay has a proprietary chain tensioner. Did you ask about an IGH?
The XIV fits 142mm / 148mm / 197mm x12mm and 135mm / 190mm x10mm frames. BB has an XVI and loves it.
It seems the Gates isn't worked out on full suspension bikes - with this kind of power.
I'd forget fenders/ racks/ kick-stands/ KINEKT Posts/ utility bars/ mirrors/ wired lights on an 'ultimate sport e-bike' machine (that's street legal). Everything about the Hydra reeks performance.
Is the issue re: 'the display mount not fitting correctly' resolved yet?
-
If I was still going to work daily, I'd be okay, being high enough up the food chain I could park it in the office.

I use an ABUS Bordo 6000 alarm lock, ordered a keyed security keyed front skewer/ sear-post clamp (right up there with the most outrageous price gouging I've ever seen). The bar clamp stem and seat bolts are next.
Such a shame, replacing my beautiful titanium with steel, but my neighbor had his saddle stolen ... and I lost one bike to crooks.
If Hydra has water bottle mounts, you can install the Abus holder.

A couple catalytic converters get stolen - national news. They found way over 100 frames when they shut down the 'homeless' camp in the San Diego River bed. We have so many high-end bikes being stolen every day - the FBI says theft's are increasing by 14% every year - we need a Federal task force.

Nothing's foolproof, but make it as difficult as possible.

I wonder if anyone else out there has a UC on order?
Not hearing a lot.

Regards and Cavalga como o vento !

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Kindernay for me.
If you're interested in a used UC Pro you might want to give Pushkar a call, as my Medium (actually more like a large) UC Pro will become available when I get my Hydra.
Heck, I could ship the bike directly to you......

Thanks ! I'll see what's up.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

-
Anecdotally: a (stock) '23 soft iron rivet' attached ring-gear (having previously sheared off 2 x under load from the carrier).
I repaired using bolts 2 x strength bolts and they sheared again.
Okay, areo-space grade fasteners, problem resolved ... and never, no way, forget it are you gonna spin (even) the (shredded) ring gear from the carrier.
LSS, 'material data is (God and) what matters.
-
My present machine, I've replaced a lot of - grade unknown - bolts when Titanium was about double the price of good stainless.
It's still a bargain.


I took a shot of this key ti ring View attachment 125628 It reflects the same 'straw' colors, yet is 100% grey to the naked eye.
'Woo hoo', huh?

My UC (w/ Kindernay VII), will have (total) three Hydraulic lines to the rear (sigh. ugh. gotta get used to it. barf. gaack).
That's a reason I was leery of an IGH.
I'm thinking 'this is an improvement? A solenoid would weigh less; no tubes; could be wireless' ... and probably come out next year as a minor $900.00 upgrade.
It's that or the drivetrain maintenance and and I'd spend a lot more than just buying a Kindernay.




No IGH for you. LOL

Just make sure you are actually measuring 6" in front of the seat in its low position.
The specs given on sites are often the lowest point of the Top tube where it meets the seat tube, which is misleading as you can never stand in that location (unless your seat is high enough that the saddle tip is behind that point).
Ultimately I am looking forward for someone to take delivery of a Small Hydra so we can double check all that
Until then, I am waiting for the Helios to materialize

Someone already took delivery of the 'small' they had ready to go on the site.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

New and improved Strider.
It's attached underneath my fat saddle.

Nice EDC. I only have one of his pieces - because it's titanium.
That's a Marfione? This an old Strider, before most collaborations. He's from Santee, a few miles up the road so I'm familiar with the controversy over his history. The blade is iconic.
I knew he was doing some new collaborations and I see Pro-Techs w/ his blade.
My Striders pivot feels clunky. I much prefer the buttery action my Titanium scaled Randal. But, it's the 'ricasso bite', closing frame-locks one handed that bugs me. I prefer a light, nylon scaled, lock-back Emerson - and the little Dragonfly in my pocket for packages and light work. It's super-steel takes and holds an insane edge. In that roll, on the left, from the green Dragonfly (in ZDP 189) down to the Police model are lightweights/ lock-backs.
The grey/ blue (Emerson) Endela (apart for overhaul) and the Endura are my main EDC's.
Simply remove from your clipped inside your pocket by grasping with thumb on inside and forefinger on outside (right where the clip is indented), pinching as you pull out at a 2o'clock angle and it's open.
That black Spyerco Delica Clip-it is one of their earliest Nylon Scaled pieces that evolved into their best seller.
The most aggressive looking blade Spyderco makes - also an Emerson opener - is the Matriarch.
For liner-locks in longer blades, I like Extrema Ratio's. The alloy scaled Pantera the Dark Talons (5" blade/ 10 3/4" overall) open with a light flick.
I've carried a few knives and a few made it to 'EDC' status. Recently, I unloaded a lot of pieces. Too many years, getting out of hand.
-
For me the best EDC is Spyderco's Endela Emerson Lightweight.
Emerson's motto should be "when failure to open is not an option".
I only wish they'd use ZDP 189 steel.

Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

Early in this thread the Old Man Mountain rack was mentioned. I went to their website yesterday to have a look and I'm thinking their rack may be the way to go.
The only concern I have is attaching the rack to the Hydra's carbon frame.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

You know I can’t remember, I think it was a 42T or 44T. No chain skips ever. I have a 46T chain ring and a KMC Ebike chain. I keep the chain tension tight. So far so good!

Hey, I picked up a pair of those RaceFace Chesters (in blue for my UC). Tried them on my Limited and super nice. I read a review where the guy was complaining they didn't grip well enough? His upset was the center having a slightly higher point? Just like all my shoes do?
I used to slip (a lot) on my old pedals, these things grip like glue. In fact, the usual small foot adjustments are far more difficult.
Much, much safer. I've had terrible ankle injuries from my 4 x4 Landcruiser's clutch pedal. Not looking foirward to that pedal's edge shredding me. Also, my stock 'Wellgo' pedal weighs 231gms. The RF Chester is 184gms. I lost 94gms, 3.3ozs.
Not sure what throttle you're using. I'm waiting on a Domino and was looking for some Blue and Black grips found these:

Bet they'd look Godzilla Grade Awesome on your hydra.

Fn'F