Hydra as a commuter?

Here's some more cool bags for loop bars
jonesbarbag.jpg
Never mind the colors, they come in a variety. Even get to pick top, the thread and separate strap's colors.
https://nittanymountainworks.com/products/jones-bar-bag. At $85.00, it's a lot better than the company bag for sure.
Cottage industry. Made in USA.
I'm thinking I don't want a hot sandwich or apple, so a silver top/ bottom with a neon blue body and silver webbing w/ neon blue thread - would look good on my UC w/ (silver) H Bars, but interference with my display is a consideration.
An HAC's headstay, center mounted display might also have that problem. Any loop bars seem to work. The Jones', which come in carbon as well are gaining in popularity and now small shops are rising to the occasion to create quality American Made accessories.

Another, flush topped with a 'roll' closure is the JEFF 'N JOAN'S BAG https://www.randijofab.com/collections/bags/products/jeffs-joans-bar-bag
Bag.jpg

It's only 5.5 inches deep and another 5.5 with the top unrolled up.
A lot lighter than a rack ( 190 - 200gms) these should fit the bill for a HAC

Fn'F
 
@kwseattle what glove size are you and how do you prefer the different sizes on the PNW grips? I'm looking at some new grips because my old ones are tearing... I get a little numbness in my ring and pinky fingers on longer rides which led me to get an Ergon set which I liked - but I don't want another set tearing on me. I think the GA3's are a different material than the leather GA1's I had (don't laugh the leather is great for sweaty guys) and on my E06 I don't know how crazy I will get on technical trails so comfort is a little more the goal.
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Speaking of the GA3's and considering this is the 'Hydra as a Commuter' thread, I might point out Ergon has a GA3 model with a bracket for the Supernova high beam. A Package with the M99 Pro 2 head & tail lights is the perfect thing for a commuter bike. Automatic DRL switching & low beam/hi beam - specifically mentioned Magura MT5e brakes as an exampe of what they're made to work with. I wonder what the situation is with the Innotrace controller and lights - I recall there being discussion about how the X1 doesn't have the functionality to work with headlights via the Bafang controls without the light module that was being worked on, but I wonder if that affects whether they can be powered from the system or not. Even though these lights are low powered I would honestly prefer a discrete 12V source for them and just have the light connectors from the controller to run relays with a manual bypass if you want the lights on without the motor/controller on. This is one reason I like the options with their own batteries - no more wires to run, not dependant on the ebike battery or controller, so on and so forth.
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My glove size is medium/large (depending on brand), I like the thicker PNW Loam grips because it's easier to wrap my thumbs around them without putting too much pressure on my palm between the thumb and index finger. I have been having pain in that exact area.
 
So the single bad(ish) accident my wife and I have seen riding around since going ebikes was on a greenway, two girls on the side of a path, one looking in not-so-great shape. Came up on them, pulled off to see if they needed help, etc. Rear wheel came off the bike...somehow. At least part of that somehow was probably down to it being QR, IMO. Guessing near zero pre-ride-check, as she wasn't riding anything crazy, few short double-track flat trails at worst.

Maybe worth considering if planning on upgrading the wheels anyways? Not sure which bike this is on, but I bet you could get a Yari cheap-ish (e.g. on pinkbike, used) and then later swap the air spring for $40, and wait on a sale for the Lyric Ultimate damper to swap in, then you wind up at near-top-end over time anyways..

I'm sure lots of QR wheels have done lots of real miles, but I definitely prefer thru-axles. YMMV.


:)
I just wrapped up researching going w/ the Yari > LU Damper = Lyric Ultimate performance.
Reviews rate the LU comparable with a Fox 36 - and I can build a thousand dollar RS fork for $5 - 600.00?
If this was an MTB, I'd be on that.
Another reason I liked the idea of the HAC is it's great with no fenders.
I eschew crappy weather altogether, blessed by a great climate.
I'm jazzed for Deacon. Now comes the tuning. For me, that's half the fun.
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I'm going Archer wireless - sending another fat wire to 'cable-clutter heaven' 🙏🙏- but at the same time would like to upgrade the derailleur, which means to do it proper a (compatible), new cassette, chain on an 8Sp - which works well for a 30mph bike.

I know you are sneering, but any suggestions in the $1- 200.00 derailleur range?
My plans call for $500.00 total on drivetrain and I'm in for $300.00 so far - w/ the Archer D1x and my 46t ring-gear set up.
I'd go wireless, the same or similar w/ any HydraAsaCommuter.
Not a lifetime bicycle pro (the knowledge here blows me away), but I've got a decent sense of artistic perspective and color.
I took enough Lib Art stuff - between other more serious studies, job required - to develop an 'eye' to qualify my opinions.
That I'm thunderstruck when I see Cuz Vinnie's Hydra - tho for HAC I'd add 'commuting' bars - is not a common reaction for me in a world of trendy, incongruous/ aesthetically tasteless chaos ... that I so often 'hold my nose' and forgive for functionality qualities I must have.
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Really appreciate any advice on a 8sp drivetrain. I put the fork off until next month, which was - is - also budgeted to include the DT upgrades.
I'm slipping for sure.

Fn'F

Vinnie: More Photo's please !!
 
My Hydra has the Archon X1 controller and Kindernay 7 speed.
Shouldn't the grips be level with the saddle? I'm trying to envision holding those bars, pointed up like that.
I'd need a longer torso. Pointed up's great, riding standing up, like BMX - My God? How'd they test that bike?
The more I look at the Hydra the more I see it's designed for a long torso and riding off of the saddle ... which makes sense, since it's purpose is to voraciously eat bumpy terrain.
Bike geometry's still a bit cloudy in my brain. I'm sure doing your due diligence you know it inside-out.
The slickest part is you're on the road for summer !
As Rome says, it's good to see [production flowing at] a steady pace - happy, smiling faces.
Wish I could say that. If I can't have titanium, it's not what I want. It's my whim. Subtract the ti, it evaporates and I'm bored.
China's pretty much up and running, now spending big resources on boosting trade - since mid-June.
Have you returned the CT UC ? No word back yet from WW.

Fn'F
 
No, I still have the UC. Went for a nice ride down to the ocean yesterday.

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I like that rear rack-bag.
If you need to mix and match your springs on the KINEKT, PM me. I just checked to see and found I still have them.
At 138 -140lbs, I was on the cusp of the recommended weight range, so I bought Light springs to run a Medium and a Light.
If one's weight is 135 -145lbs, a Light spring x Medium are perfect.
You need to adjust it in the field to get it perfect. Go tool-less with the $20 KINEKT 'control knob assembly'.
Stock, I wasn't impressed. Kitted out is a different animal.
The bike is impressive. It'd certainly turn my head.

Thanks !!
 
That small frame size looks soo much better to me! The seat tube looks straight enough that you'd be able to cram a 150mm or maybe even taller dropper in there - even as a 6' guy I'd almost prefer that, if the reach isn't too scrunched up. I think the only thing you'd need to swap are the grips - or at least I would. I'm looking at scooping up a Duroc 50 wheelset in 150/197mm from Fyxation so I can slap my Speedster's on those and ride the flat/paved stuff without any worry of wearing my trail tires or dealing with the sound or vibrations from knobbies.
 
That small frame size looks soo much better to me! The seat tube looks straight enough that you'd be able to cram a 150mm or maybe even taller dropper in there - even as a 6' guy I'd almost prefer that, if the reach isn't too scrunched up. I think the only thing you'd need to swap are the grips - or at least I would. I'm looking at scooping up a Duroc 50 wheelset in 150/197mm from Fyxation so I can slap my Speedster's on those and ride the flat/paved stuff without any worry of wearing my trail tires or dealing with the sound or vibrations from knobbies.
I found something you'd mentioned. Titanium (Magura) torx brake bolts, here: Ti at Aliexpress .
TAIMEILI-Titanium-alloy-Magura-handle-brake-screw-1pcs-M5x18mm.jpg_480x480q90.jpg_.jpg
They also have the oil drain and and inlet bolts in ti.
Good price too. $30.00 on ebay for four the screws. $36.00 for the same four and two each of the oil plugs - free shipping over $30.00.
I certainly agree that sticking with all torx is a great idea.
The titanium nuts clamps and bolts I have installed are amazing. Black axle nuts on a rear hub seem to self heal if scratched by a wrench.
Regarding ultimate tensile strength as I've mentioned, if it's on your mind stick to the silver bolts that are not heat treated to produce colors. Visualizing the process, the weakness (surface passivation) is only a couple microns thick, quite insubstantial. Of course as that oxidization is worn off - being much softer - a new layer will form (the healing trick). 500 such layers removed by abrasion would effect (theoretically) 1mm depth of overall material.
To be candid, no matter what you read the exact mechanisms of titanium's passivation are not completely understood; they vary depending on the how the metal was processed. Surface oxygen is also a part of the total oxygen in titanium, so the passivation film affects the properties of titanium.
So, if you are screwing into something hard, like stainless (500 times), it could wear out.
That's pretty far fetched, but yeah. Stuff happens. Just use the silver to straw colored ti for maximum strength.

Hey, sorry to bore but the magic of metals fascinates me.

Paul
 
Looks like my new Hydra is almost ready to be shipped. 🥳
The only changes are a switch to Johnny Watts tires and the addition of front and rear lights.
Man I love look of the black battery cover. For first two weeks my bike had an unpainted cover WW sent me while painter fixed some flaw with inital paint job. So I had rode around bike with the unpainted (basically black) cover for those 2 weeks and man look grew on me. When the painted covered show up I was a bit disapointed. ;)
 
I didn't notice the black cover in the photo, but it might be more obvious in the flesh. Personally, I'd rather have a painted battery cover.
 
No, I still have the UC. Went for a nice ride down to the ocean yesterday.

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What brand of bag is that Deacon?
BTW: My Kinekt suspension post (installed June 2021) is failing at the tube juncture and the saddle now turns a full 5 degrees.
It's off warranty and I purchased, new at a dealer's sale. We'll see how Kinekt reacts. So far so good.
 
It's a bag from Arkel. It goes with the mounting rack I have on my Cannondale e-gravel bike, but works well with my UC Pro's rack.

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Ahhh. The one w/ the Archer ! You realize that shifter is unobtanium. Now they're pushing paddles - at probably double what you paid - only through Archer. I was lucky to find one and pay half the present price - because it had been installed.
A nice upgrade for my lower grade machine, but may have to install on my seat-stay.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for someone selling a used Trail shifter with a working off button and post it. Mine works perfectly but is stiff.
I need a new 8sp cassette and derailleur, but find myself stumped. Thinking the Box four 8S, 11 / 42.

My you have such nice machines.

Fn'F
 
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I got an email from UPS telling me that the bike would arrive on July 22, then I got another email tell me the arrival date would be changed to July 21. July 21 came and went, but no bike. fingers crossed the bike comes today (22nd).
If I remember correctly, the battery is not shipped in the same box as the bike? For those of you who received a Hydra did the bike in one box and the battery in another arrive at the same time? Just curious.
 
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