Front Rack - Suspension Forks - No Braze Ons

[Aushiker]

I am tossing up the option of carrying panniers on the front of my forthcoming Reise and Muller Supercharger 2. This is just one option; I may stick to getting mounts to mount my Salsa Anything Cages.

In the meantime, I am considering the various options, including a front rack.

In days past, I used a Tubus Swing on a mountain bike, which worked okay, but Tubus no longer makes them.

I have come across a three of options. Have I missed any other options?

[1] Topeak Tetrarack M1. I am not keen on using velcro, but I believe they can be swapped out for hose clamps. The load rating is 10 kg.

[2] Zefal Raider Front - uses four hose clamps to mount it. It is lighter. The load rating is 2 x 9 kg (complying with ISO 11243:2016 standard). It's way more than I need, but it speaks to the rack's strength.

[3] Old Man Mountain Elkhorn - very expensive to purchase and import to Australia.

Thoughts on these racks or others?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

[1] Topeak Tetrarack M1. I am not keen on using velcro, but I believe they can be swapped out for hose clamps. The load rating is 10 kg.

I am convinced on this Topeak product. I used an M2 rear rack on my former e-MTB and was very happy. All velcro based products are reliable as long as you take care of tightening the straps well. However, I was always overloading my M2 rack, so my brother eventually used some kind of glue to protect the connection against the vibration I was getting on rough trails. (When I gave him that e-bike, he removed anything non-MTB from that ride).

OMM is rightly perceived as the high-end and perfect product but I even could not order Old Man Mountain products in Europe!

 

[indianajo]

I have used a Wald 137/139 front basket on my Trek 7100 that has a front suspension. The Wald clamps do not fit around the trek handlebar that is oversize near the center. I built loops of sheet metal 7/8" wide and >5" long, a small loop around the basket frame, and a large loop around the handlebar. Clamp action via #10-32 SS screws: use 5 mm in the metric markets. Use elastic stop nuts for permanent tightness. Debur the sheet metal strips after you make them, you do not want to cut your hand on the road. I used an electric wire brush wheel; use safety glasses with power tools. The wald basket has struts near the front that fit over the axle and are captured by the wheel nuts. My intended load is groceries & sundries: my host only shops at Kroger or Wal-mart and many of the foods or sundries I buy are not available there.
I do not trust hose clamps since I saw some used as bike motor torque arm clamps that were unravelled on U-tube. I have stripped import ones on rubber hoses on cars. Ford Rotunda clamps went obsolete 60 years ago.
The basket inhibits the suspension action some, but I ride on road or bike paths, I really do not care. I only bought a suspension bike because it was the only one on craigslist that was small enough to fit my legs in Houston the week I was there. One possible advantage of the basket, it may keep the handlebar from jerking out of my hands and front wheel snapping sideways, which then throws me over the handlebars on my chin. 5 times 2008-2018 on two MTBs and a cruiser. ***-**** quick steering: bikes did not used to be so unstable. I have been riding the same 26" wheels & tires for 63 years, and the problem developed on frames built after 1990. The 7100 is so unstable the front wheel snaps sideways and it falls over if it is propped up against a wall.
No as much instability on the stretch frame bodaboda cargo bike when I am on it, but none of those were for sale used in Houston last holiday trip there. Only my weight keeps the front fork from snapping sideways however; when I push the yuba around the front wheel wants to be backwards.

 

[Twowheelxtc]

last summer I toured on my Vado 5 with Ortlieb Fork Packs. They are supplied with fittings for both forks with braze ons or suspension forks with none. They were excellent and typical Ortlieb waterproof and easy on off. the only draw back being the max size is 10 litres each.

 

[peterh_nz]

You may also want to check out:

Thule Tour Rack | Thule | United States

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www.thule.com

I have one (not used on my RM S2). Well made and expensive. The carrier was originally designed and sold by a company in NZ. They sold the rights to Thule a number of years ago.

The carrier is available at bike shops here in NZ so I assume also in Australia.

Cheers

 

[6zfshdb]

I have no braze-ons on my forks either. While hose clamps work, I prefer to use these:

Amazon.com

They have a much "cleaner" look, come in a variety of sizes, and won't mar the paint.

Hose clamps require a separate tool, screwdriver, socket wrench, etc, which needs to be carried in case one requires adjustment or comes loose. I use socket head cap screws with the above clamps, so I can use an Allen wrench, which I always carry for other bike fasteners.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I have no braze-ons on my forks either. While hose clamps work, I prefer to use these:

View attachment 172963

Amazon.com

They have a much "cleaner" look, come in a variety of sizes, and won't mar the paint.

Hose clamps require a separate tool, screwdriver, socket wrench, etc, which needs to be carried in case one requires adjustment or comes loose. I use socket head cap screws with the above clamps, so I can use an Allen wrench, which I always carry for other bike fasteners.

How are these sized? By legnth or clamping diameter?
I'm assuming the latter.

 

[6zfshdb]

Correct, The measurement is the closed diameter. I usually order a size smaller than the tube diameter to allow for a tight fit.

 

[Aushiker]

Via a Supercharger 2 user, I have encountered these Ortlieb Fork Packs. They are 4.1 or 5.8 litre—another option to consider.