Alternative rack for Allant+ 8

[offthewall]

I like it, great job. Do you think it will hold under load? How tight is the fit around the 8s rack itself?

Well I can pick the bike up by the rack so that should be twice the weight it's rated for. My original concept was to use slightly smaller 3/8" P-clamps and use the entire clamp so that it would be tight around the bars. Once I started fiddling with it, I realized that using 7/16" Clamps allowed the clamp to fully seat around the Trek bar (snug but not tight) and it's really held in by the outward pressure exerted by the MIK rack tabs. The P clamp halves or the MIK rack tabs would have to snap for it to fail.

 

[Sefutau2020]

Well I can pick the bike up by the rack so that should be twice the weight it's rated for. My original concept was to use slightly smaller 3/8" P-clamps and use the entire clamp so that it would be tight around the bars. Once I started fiddling with it, I realized that using 7/16" Clamps allowed the clamp to fully seat around the Trek bar (snug but not tight) and it's really held in by the outward pressure exerted by the MIK rack tabs. The P clamp halves or the MIK rack tabs would have to snap for it to fail.

Excellent...I am going to try your suggestion, and will share pictures when I am done. Thanks.

 

[offthewall]

I like it, great job. Do you think it will hold under load? How tight is the fit around the 8s rack itself?

FYI, I have a neoprene washer between the MIK tabs and the P clamps.

 

[Sparky731]

@Sparky731 This is what I wound up doing. I used the same Giant MIK rack and mounted it with 1/2 of these Billet Aluminum P-Clamps. I have Topeak MTX/RX bags, so I then mounted Topeak's platform on that. Pretty slick looking IMO.

Cool! Those clamps are what I was envisioning but unable to resolve. You must have had prior experience with them to know they exist.

Questions I have are 1. The same as Sefutau per strength and fit and also 2. getting enough separation above the fender for clearance of the MIK adapter plate’s male protrusion. I could need a slightly longer leg on the clamp. You are using a different trunk mounting plate so it must work for you. Looks great. Much cleaner than the strapping.

The great thing about these forums is the myriad access to intelligent thinking.

 

[Sparky731]

@Sparky731 This is what I wound up doing. I used the same Giant MIK rack and mounted it with 1/2 of these Billet Aluminum P-Clamps. I have Topeak MTX/RX bags, so I then mounted Topeak's platform on that. Pretty slick looking IMO.

Excellent! Those clamps are what I was envisioning but unable to resolve. You must have had prior experience With those clamps.

Questions I have are 1. The same as Sefutau per strength and fit and also 2. getting enough separation above the fender for clearance of the MIK adapter plate’s male protrusion. I could need a slightly longer leg on the clamp. You are using a different trunk mounting plate so it must work for you. Looks great. Much cleaner than the strapping.

The great thing about these forums is the myriad access to intelligent thinking.

 

[offthewall]

Excellent! Those clamps are what I was envisioning but unable to resolve. You must have had prior experience With those clamps.

Questions I have are 1. The same as Sefutau per strength and fit and also 2. getting enough separation above the fender for clearance of the MIK adapter plate’s male protrusion. I could need a slightly longer leg on the clamp. You are using a different trunk mounting plate so it must work for you. Looks great. Much cleaner than the strapping.

The great thing about these forums is the myriad access to intelligent thinking.

I can’t speak to the clearance required for mounting an MIK accessory but your solution does appear to have a bit more clearance. As far as strength, I’m fairly confident that it should hold the 25 or so pounds that the rack is rated for - I guess time will tell.

 

[offthewall]

Excellent! Those clamps are what I was envisioning but unable to resolve. You must have had prior experience With those clamps.

Questions I have are 1. The same as Sefutau per strength and fit and also 2. getting enough separation above the fender for clearance of the MIK adapter plate’s male protrusion. I could need a slightly longer leg on the clamp. You are using a different trunk mounting plate so it must work for you. Looks great. Much cleaner than the strapping.

The great thing about these forums is the myriad access to intelligent thinking.

@Sparky731 @Sefutau2020,
OK, you shamed me into strengthening up the mounts. LOL. I re-did everything today using the entire P-Clamp (my initial concept). My issue with that originally was that if I pushed REALLY hard on the rack, it could slide slightly no matter how tight the screws were. Using just the 1/2 clamp allowed increased horizontal pressure to be applied making the lateral movement solid. I solved the inability to really tighten up the grip on the Trek bar by applying 20mil rubber tape to the inside of the P Clamps. You can not make that thing slide along the bars at all now. The use of the entire clamp should eliminate any strength issues. No neoprene washers since the P Clamps are firmly against the MIK tabs.

 

[Sparky731]

@Sparky731 @Sefutau2020,
OK, you shamed me into strengthening up the mounts. LOL. I re-did everything today using the entire P-Clamp (my initial concept). My issue with that originally was that if I pushed REALLY hard on the rack, it could slide slightly no matter how tight the screws were. Using just the 1/2 clamp allowed increased horizontal pressure to be applied making the lateral movement solid. I solved the inability to really tighten up the grip on the Trek bar by applying 20mil rubber tape to the inside of the P Clamps. You can not make that thing slide along the bars at all now. The use of the entire clamp should eliminate any strength issues. No neoprene washers since the P Clamps are firmly against the MIK tabs.

Yours is really a perfect solution. I have researched p-clamps and cannot find any with a longer leg given a primary purpose of the clamp is to cinch at the pinch point.

I do have additional room between the front of the trunk and the seat so I could possibly slide farther forward to create enough separation via the down slope curvature of the fender. I also used rubber grommets around the panniers tubes to provide more squeeze friction.

Fyi, I also just ordered a replacement Kiox for the Smartphone controller and a Range Boost attachment so I can swap my Range Boost battery between my 7s (leaving in WI) and the 8s which I am taking to leave in AZ. The 625w is not enough to make my daily circuit. I also swapped the 7s 500w RIB to a 625w. 1,125w on both bikes which I have not yet outridden. Very close.

 

[Sefutau2020]

Yours is really a perfect solution. I have researched p-clamps and cannot find any with a longer leg given a primary purpose of the clamp is to cinch at the pinch point.

I do have additional room between the front of the trunk and the seat so I could possibly slide farther forward to create enough separation via the down slope curvature of the fender. I also used rubber grommets around the panniers tubes to provide more squeeze friction.

Fyi, I also just ordered a replacement Kiox for the Smartphone controller and a Range Boost attachment so I can swap my Range Boost battery between my 7s (leaving in WI) and the 8s which I am taking to leave in AZ. The 625w is not enough to make my daily circuit. I also swapped the 7s 500w RIB to a 625w. 1,125w on both bikes which I have not yet outridden. Very close.

Wow...you get a lot of riding in. What is your range in ECO mode on the 8s if you don't mind me asking...without the Range Extender? I usually get around 90 miles, averaging a tad over 15mph. In SPORT mode, i get roughly 35 or 36 running at about 20mph. Thanks....

 

[Sefutau2020]

@Sparky731 @Sefutau2020,
OK, you shamed me into strengthening up the mounts. LOL. I re-did everything today using the entire P-Clamp (my initial concept). My issue with that originally was that if I pushed REALLY hard on the rack, it could slide slightly no matter how tight the screws were. Using just the 1/2 clamp allowed increased horizontal pressure to be applied making the lateral movement solid. I solved the inability to really tighten up the grip on the Trek bar by applying 20mil rubber tape to the inside of the P Clamps. You can not make that thing slide along the bars at all now. The use of the entire clamp should eliminate any strength issues. No neoprene washers since the P Clamps are firmly against the MIK tabs.

Very nice....my p-clamps arrive Monday, so I should have an update also, with pics. This solution will be helpful for a ton of Trek 8s, 9.9s, and Super Commuter riders.

 

[Sparky731]

Very nice....my p-clamps arrive Monday, so I should have an update also, with pics. This solution will be helpful for a ton of Trek 8s, 9.9s, and Super Commuter riders.

Yes! Package and market the design. Make enough to buy a cup of coffee! Just kidding. Probably 2 cups. Share with #offthewall. His idea.

8,800+ miles on my 7s — probably 90+% in Turbo. That’s all I ride. I gave up on the lower assist levels after a couple of thousand miles on my Verve+3. Still wanted to go faster so bought the 7s with the Speed motor.

And when solo I ride fast. Never dangerously, but smiling fast. I will average >20mph for a 30 mile ride. Which requires more electrons than are stored in a 625w battery.

Fully charged my screen will show a range of 260 miles in Eco and 1/4 that in Turbo. I can eek out 55-60 miles without too much headwind or too many hills.

I am 72 years old and enjoying my rides.

 

[Sefutau2020]

Yes! You can package and market your design. Make enough to buy a cup of coffee! Just kidding. Probably 2 cups.

8,800+ miles on my 7s — probably 90+% in Turbo. That’s all I ride. I gave up on the lower assist levels after a couple of thousand miles on my Verve+3. Still wanted to go faster so bought the 7s with the Speed motor.

And when solo I ride fast. Never dangerously, but smiling fast. I will average >20mph for a 30 mile ride. Which requires more electrons than are stored in a 625w battery.

Fully charged my screen will show a range of 260 miles in Eco and 1/4 that in Turbo. I can eek out 55-60 miles without too much headwind or too many hills.

I am 72 years old and enjoying my rides.

Wow...congrats...I love my 8s.....and have been thinking about getting the range extender also. I ride in Tour mostly, 61 years old, and feel like that's all I need. Happy riding and take care.

 

[Sefutau2020]

@Sparky731 @Sefutau2020,
OK, you shamed me into strengthening up the mounts. LOL. I re-did everything today using the entire P-Clamp (my initial concept). My issue with that originally was that if I pushed REALLY hard on the rack, it could slide slightly no matter how tight the screws were. Using just the 1/2 clamp allowed increased horizontal pressure to be applied making the lateral movement solid. I solved the inability to really tighten up the grip on the Trek bar by applying 20mil rubber tape to the inside of the P Clamps. You can not make that thing slide along the bars at all now. The use of the entire clamp should eliminate any strength issues. No neoprene washers since the P Clamps are firmly against the MIK tabs.

@Sparky731
Well, I finally installed the MIK rack using the "p-clamps" you suggested, and with help from @Sparky731. Trek should have manufactured the 8s with the rack or similar as the one installed on the 7s. Everybody is running panniers, and just want a traditional trunk bag. This solution solves the problem for me, and many thanks...(also to retiredNH who first came up with the idea). Forgot to give major props to @offthewall who came up with the "p-clamp" idea....my bad.

 

[Sparky731]

Well, I finally installed the MIK rack using the "p-clamps" you suggested, and with help from @Sparky731. Trek should have manufactured the 8s with the rack or similar as the one installed on the 7s. Everybody is running panniers, and just want a traditional trunk bag. This solution solves the problem for me, and many thanks...(also to retiredNH who first came up with the idea).

Very nicely done. I totally agree that TREK put on the wrong rack, I don’t like panniers either. I hope you achieved the necessary clearance between the fender and rack for the male protrusion of the front MIK adapter. That was a bugaboo for me. So far I have not retrofitted from the pipe strapping for that reason. I need to find longer P-clamps.

 

[DiggyGun]

I copied retiredNH’s solution. The oversized washers are needed to compress the hanger strap around the pannier rack pipes.
View attachment 164362

Nice solution.

DG…

 

[DiggyGun]

We had a similar problem with our R&M rear racks which were MIK. You could either use a trunk bag or panniers, but not both.

Typically we wanted to use both, so I added some pannier rails using the following two methods.

Rubber lined P-Clips to fix the rail to the rack.

Crimp lugs either end of the rail to bolt on the rack.

Both methods now allow us to use panniers fitted to the lower rails and a trunk bag to the original rack.

For information, we use Ortlieb panniers and trunk bags, which fit nice and securely to the bike when we are trekking on roughish cycle tracks.

DG…

 

[Sefutau2020]

Very nicely done. I totally agree that TREK put on the wrong rack, I don’t like panniers either. I hope you achieved the necessary clearance between the fender and rack for the male protrusion of the front MIK adapter. That was a bugaboo for me. So far I have not retrofitted from the pipe strapping for that reason. I need to find longer P-clamps.

Yes, and thank you. I borrowed the idea from @offthewall.....Trek should hire both of you for their engineering department.

​

 

[Sefutau2020]

We had a similar problem with our R&M rear racks which were MIK. You could either use a trunk bag or panniers, but not both.

Typically we wanted to use both, so I added some pannier rails using the following two methods.

Rubber lined P-Clips to fix the rail to the rack.
View attachment 165069
View attachment 165070

Crimp lugs either end of the rail to bolt on the rack.
View attachment 165071View attachment 165072

Both methods now allow us to use panniers fitted to the lower rails and a trunk bag to the original rack.

For information, we use Ortlieb panniers and trunk bags, which fit nice and securely to the bike when we are trekking on roughish cycle tracks.

DG…

Nice....the forum is invaluable for solutions to common problems, overlooked by manufacturers of some ebikes....

 

[Sefutau2020]

Very nicely done. I totally agree that TREK put on the wrong rack, I don’t like panniers either. I hope you achieved the necessary clearance between the fender and rack for the male protrusion of the front MIK adapter. That was a bugaboo for me. So far I have not retrofitted from the pipe strapping for that reason. I need to find longer P-clamps.

It is a "snug" fit, but it is working. If need be, I already have a MIK adapter that I could attach to Giant MIK Adapter (sounds crazy) but doing so would give me more clearance. If I decide to take that route, I will post an update. At the same time the straps work perfectly for you, and it looks good.

 

[Sefutau2020]

Because the spacing was tight between the MIK top plate and the fender, I installed my spare MIK adapter on to the top plate...redundant somewhat, but it is easier to put the bag on, and take it off.