Ebikemotion x35 speed limiter "fix"

So I purchased one from AU for around $230 usd. After a few rides, it has an unexpected benefit for me. It does increase the max. speed from 20 mph to around 22 or 23 which is not bad. But it also smooths out the on/off jolting that I was getting at around the max speed of 20 mph - which was really annoying to me and was a constant reminder that I was riding an eBike. So now, at the Orange setting, I maintain around 22-23 mph with no on/off jolts; the acceleration is smooth and stops at 22-23 imperceptibly.

I'm happy. Now if I could only fix my disk brake rubbing...but that's another story...
 
So I purchased one from AU for around $230 usd. After a few rides, it has an unexpected benefit for me. It does increase the max. speed from 20 mph to around 22 or 23 which is not bad. But it also smooths out the on/off jolting that I was getting at around the max speed of 20 mph - which was really annoying to me and was a constant reminder that I was riding an eBike. So now, at the Orange setting, I maintain around 22-23 mph with no on/off jolts; the acceleration is smooth and stops at 22-23 imperceptibly.

I'm happy. Now if I could only fix my disk brake rubbing...but that's another story...

Hi cj3209,

Can you please provide a link or more specific brand/model information on the speed limit overrider you purchased? Since you referenced 20 MPH I assume you are in the US?

$230 is not cheap, but it's a lot less expensive than buying a Creo....

Thanks much.
 
Hi cj3209,

Can you please provide a link or more specific brand/model information on the speed limit overrider you purchased? Since you referenced 20 MPH I assume you are in the US?

$230 is not cheap, but it's a lot less expensive than buying a Creo....

Thanks much.
Sorry, it's about $218 USD - my math is off.

Here's the link:

When installing you have to pull out the cable and after attaching it, you have to use a tie-strap to keep the wire as flush with the bike as possible.

Good luck!
 
You have this version available in Europe:


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Cheaper and fastest shipping.

There is a specific version for Orbea Gain carbon and Willier Cento 10.
 
In muy opinion, it worths the money too.

Removing the on/off effect, like cj3206 says, gives you a more satisfying experience when riding the bike.

Without the tuner, you allways notice the moment when the bike stops pushing, but with the tuner is a smoother sensation.

Appart of this, you can get 29km/h. It is not a big difference, but sometimes, particularly in flat terrain, when you go with more people, it can be the difference between going on the group or to be left behind.

I have find the tuner on sale on amazon and ebay, but I think the manufacturer website is https://www.volabike.com
They have batteries for ebikemotion X35 too with more capacity than the original range extender.

Anyone has bought some of them?
 
Appart of this, you can get 29km/h. It is not a big difference, but sometimes, particularly in flat terrain, when you go with more people, it can be the difference between going on the group or to be left behind.
I absolutely agree with that, having a derestrictor installed in another e-bike. It is just infuriating to "hit a wall" at 25 km/h, and be even unable to safely overtake slow traditional cyclists on road. Or, negotiate a junction fast. The 29 km/h is very much needed in Europe or Australia. The U.S. or Canada is another kettle of fish.
 
I absolutely agree with that, having a derestrictor installed in another e-bike. It is just infuriating to "hit a wall" at 25 km/h, and be even unable to safely overtake slow traditional cyclists on road. Or, negotiate a junction fast. The 29 km/h is very much needed in Europe or Australia. The U.S. or Canada is another kettle of fish.
Yah, 29 kph is still slow. Here in the US, it's 32 kph. And even then, most good peletons (at least here in SoCal) average around 32 to 35 and if they decide to speed up, you will get dropped unless you push yourself; and the extra 4.5 kg of weight on an eBike does not help. Ironically, it's making me want to lose weight!

BUT, you do catch up to the fast riders when the hills come up...lol.
 
I'll report my results when I install it. I am in the US, and I have a first generation Gain M20i (meaning, X35 not X35+). I fully appreciate that I get a 20 mph (32 kph) with the factory default before the cutoff. 15 mph (25 kph) would only be marginally useful to me, and I empathize with the frustration of having a 25 kph limit for those across the pond.

That being said, of course I want more than 20 mph! Without assist, I can ride on the flats at 17-18 mph. With assist, even at only 42% (orange for me, the middle level), I can readily exceed 20 mph and the cutoff happens. The guys I ride with are B riders (metro Atlanta), which here means group speeds of 22-24 mph on the flats. I can no longer maintain those speeds in a group, even protected in the pack.

If I get 22-23 mph for $200 USD, that's a win for me. Based on my calculations, with a hub ratio of 14:1 (per various Mahle/Ebikemotion web sites) the motor will reach an RPM of 4000 at around 23mph, which is probably close to the outside of its operating window. Independent of other knowledge, I might expect the motor efficiency to decline at higher RPMs due to hysteresis and eddy current losses, with potential heat build up. But it's hilly here, so it's rare that I'm riding on the flats for more than a mile or two.

Which does beg the question: the rear hub on my US bike is clearly labeled that it's for North America. I always assumed the difference was in software/firmware, but maybe the gear ratio is different? 14:1 is clearly biased toward maximizing torque, and enhancing assistance at lower speeds. It would make sense for US-bound motors to have a 12:1 or even 10:1 ratio to boost "ride-ability" between 15-20 mph.
 
I'll report my results when I install it. I am in the US, and I have a first generation Gain M20i (meaning, X35 not X35+). I fully appreciate that I get a 20 mph (32 kph) with the factory default before the cutoff. 15 mph (25 kph) would only be marginally useful to me, and I empathize with the frustration of having a 25 kph limit for those across the pond.

That being said, of course I want more than 20 mph! Without assist, I can ride on the flats at 17-18 mph. With assist, even at only 42% (orange for me, the middle level), I can readily exceed 20 mph and the cutoff happens. The guys I ride with are B riders (metro Atlanta), which here means group speeds of 22-24 mph on the flats. I can no longer maintain those speeds in a group, even protected in the pack.

If I get 22-23 mph for $200 USD, that's a win for me. Based on my calculations, with a hub ratio of 14:1 (per various Mahle/Ebikemotion web sites) the motor will reach an RPM of 4000 at around 23mph, which is probably close to the outside of its operating window. Independent of other knowledge, I might expect the motor efficiency to decline at higher RPMs due to hysteresis and eddy current losses, with potential heat build up. But it's hilly here, so it's rare that I'm riding on the flats for more than a mile or two.

Which does beg the question: the rear hub on my US bike is clearly labeled that it's for North America. I always assumed the difference was in software/firmware, but maybe the gear ratio is different? 14:1 is clearly biased toward maximizing torque, and enhancing assistance at lower speeds. It would make sense for US-bound motors to have a 12:1 or even 10:1 ratio to boost "ride-ability" between 15-20 mph.
Another way to increase the speed of your eBike is to shed some bike weight. For instance, replacing my stock aluminum wheels, handlebar, and seat with carbon would probably cut a pound or two and make a noticeable impact on speed. Expensive though.

I have a very good gravel bike that weighs around 19 pounds (my eBike weighs 28 pounds) and I can maintain very fast speeds on the flats but bonk out on hills which is the reason why I got my eBike.
 
I'm hoping in 23.8 pounds. :)
Btw, there's no way that shedding the bike weight will increase the speed on the flats, just the acceleration (that's physics) ...
 
I'm hoping in 23.8 pounds. :)
Btw, there's no way that shedding the bike weight will increase the speed on the flats, just the acceleration (that's physics) ...
What I mean is that with less weight, it is easier to keep up with fast riders since I have less weight to push. That's my common-man explanation...

Does that make any sense? lol...
 
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