Gionnirocket
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Did I bring enough stash?
Ebike Chain Lubes
- Thread starter Johnny
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The fact that the chains were not actually on a bicycle doesn't completely discredit the results of the testing. Did you watch th video? There's some pretty high tech tests being done that you just can't throw out the window because the chains weren't on a bike... All test results are "moot" ???
fooferdoggie
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you keep forgetting the chains tested are sealed from dust because they have o rings. Bike chains dont. so the tests are not testing how well the lube got inside thew chain where it's needed on a bike. so yes they dont relate. there are plenty of bike lube tests that work much better.
That is well known and documented. External contamination is the major source of chain wear on bicycles.
One site you can visit for a comparison is Zero Friction Cycling, you can check the wear rate between contamination vs no contamination.
You should also check ZFC, those tests for bicycle chains are already much better than what you got.
You keep posting w/o actually having viewed the test. I'm not "forgetting" that o-ring chains are different than conventional chains and neither does the test. Actually the tests do ineed indicate how well the lube gets inside the chain where it's needed. Post up your better bike lube tests please.
ZFC is a brand of chain lube. Do you really think their tests are going to be "much better" than independent testing? LOL
fooferdoggie
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I have seen plenty of lube test videos over the years. ones for bike chains. but what I found one lube is not going to work for everyone people ant different things. you cant get the longest lasting and the cleanest lube all in one one that can handle rain but stay clean. its all give and take.
30 chain lubes lab tested for efficiency
In this test from the March 2013 issue, Friction Facts measures the efficiency cost in watts for the most popular chain waxes and lubricants.
www.velonews.com
Stefan Mikes
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I lube the chains on my e-bikes roughly as often as I water my potted plants, that is, whenever I feel a remorse for not doing that (oh! I need to water my plants now!)
I try to avoid this thread as I think all that "waxing chain" etc. is just a mumbo jumbo
An automotive brake cleaner to remove the old lube and dirt, and make the chain and the cassette shine. Let it dry. A regular bike chain lube, a droplet on each roller pin, wipe with a piece of rag, presto. I will replace the chain every 2,000 miles (after exceeding the 0.5% stretch mark) so why bother?
I try to avoid this thread as I think all that "waxing chain" etc. is just a mumbo jumbo
An automotive brake cleaner to remove the old lube and dirt, and make the chain and the cassette shine. Let it dry. A regular bike chain lube, a droplet on each roller pin, wipe with a piece of rag, presto. I will replace the chain every 2,000 miles (after exceeding the 0.5% stretch mark) so why bother?
fooferdoggie
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When mine gets that bad with rock and roll I think I'm going to run the chain through a chain cleaner. see if it lasts longer.
It is not a chain lube brand. He seems to sell several brands of lube on his website and may be biased.
That being said I did my own experimentation as I have explained in my original post and it mostly aligns with his results.
Maybe instead you should understand that tests of spray lubes on sealed motorcycle chains are not indicative of their effectiveness on bicycle chains.
Gionnirocket
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Road grime is the great equalizer here... as all here are using various products and for the most part have very similar results.
All waxes repel grime when first applied but one sloppy /dusty ride and you'll see that repeated grinding in as the relatively slow moving chain makes its way around the cogs soon negates that.
This is why lab testing is anecdotal and keeping your chain clean is the best practice no mater the lube.
I've gotten very similar results with the taboo, forbidden double evil WD40... Yes it's not the best lubricant but it does clean very well and because it's so inexpensive you can use it liberally and easily flush the chain of any contaminates. Down side it needs to be applied often, 75 - 100mi. I still prefer a paraffin for the longer interval but they do eventually pick up grime and then the chain needs a good cleaning which isn't as easy unless you use a lot of product.
Choose your poison but in the end what is easy works best for me as I for one don't like to spend my time worrying about a bike chain.
All waxes repel grime when first applied but one sloppy /dusty ride and you'll see that repeated grinding in as the relatively slow moving chain makes its way around the cogs soon negates that.
This is why lab testing is anecdotal and keeping your chain clean is the best practice no mater the lube.
I've gotten very similar results with the taboo, forbidden double evil WD40... Yes it's not the best lubricant but it does clean very well and because it's so inexpensive you can use it liberally and easily flush the chain of any contaminates. Down side it needs to be applied often, 75 - 100mi. I still prefer a paraffin for the longer interval but they do eventually pick up grime and then the chain needs a good cleaning which isn't as easy unless you use a lot of product.
Choose your poison but in the end what is easy works best for me as I for one don't like to spend my time worrying about a bike chain.
I believe contamination picked up on a drive train is being constantly displaced by the moving parts. Just as lubricant is being displaced from between roller and pin and side plates. All the debris and lubricant is looking for a resting place. It’s also being displaced from between the gear and chain. I don’t believe debris works its way into the chain, just as lubricant doesn’t. I think the contamination theory is overblown at the moment. I believe metal on metal wear is the culprit and the side to side movement at the rear gear cogs magnifies the issue. Therefore a lubricant with high psi capabilities and ability to flow would and is my choice, at the moment.
I'd hazard a guess that a lube that does well on an o-ring chain will also do pretty well on a non o-ring chain. The chains are very similar in construction minus the o-rings>In fact I beieve the tester mentions non o-ring chains were part of the testing. I had a non o-ring chain on an 1100CC superbike and it lasted a long time w/ proper care
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Stefan Mikes
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If your theory were correct then no machine parts would need lubing?
How did you come up with that conclusion? I don't understand your thought.
Stefan Mikes
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I did not understand your thought in the first place!
It pretty much says, use whatever you want
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