Do you really need to torque a through axle?

[BEC111]

I know that the rule of thumb is pro torquing most fasteners on our bikes but most cycling oriented torque wrenches don’t support the 15 NM my Vado SL requires. I only take my wheels off a couple of times a year so it’s hard to justify the cost of an appropriate wrench. Also the ones I’ve found don’t seem suitable for carrying for use in case of emergency. So putting the wheel back on in the field means no torquing.

Quick release axles use hand pressure to lock. Shouldn’t that be adequate even if not accurate?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

In my experience, 10-12 Nm is enough. If you take a regular 6 mm hex wrench, hold it 1/3rd length (counting from the axle), and use the usual hand force, it is enough to tighten the axle properly.

If it is the 6 mm hex bit of the multi-tool, use the full length of the tool to achieve the same.

A good bicycle torque wrench is for 2-20 Nm.

 

[BEC111]

In my experience, 10-12 Nm is enough. If you take a regular 6 mm hex wrench, hold it 1/3rd length (counting from the axle), and use the usual hand force, it is enough to tighten the axle properly.

If it is the 6 mm hex bit of the multi-tool, use the full length of the tool to achieve the same.

A good bicycle torque wrench is for 2-20 Nm.

I’ve used my Lezyne which torques to 11 (not a Spinal Tap model) and given it a bit extra, so that‘s probably ok on the road. I’ll have to find one for the garage so I can be more accurate either after getting home from the field repair or for maintenance.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I’ve used my Lezyne which torques to 11 (not a Spinal Tap model) and given it a bit extra, so that‘s probably ok on the road. I’ll have to find one for the garage so I can be more accurate either after getting home from the field repair or for maintenance.

As I say, it does not need to be that accurate. The role of the thru-axle is to squeeze the fork sockets on the hub bearings. It is enough to apply as much torque as the axle doesn't loosen itself. Your 11 Nm torque wrench is adequate. If you need a good one, I use this torque wrench myself:

Pro Bike Tool Torque Wrench

Once, I forgot tightening the front thru-axle after replacing the wheel and rode for 20 km... Just fancy how good thru-axles are!

 

[Chargeride]

I had mine come loose twice, pretty extreme terain, I think jt might have opened the QR on a passing rock.
Ended up just hand tightening and leaving QR open.

 

[indianajo]

I have never used a torque wrench on a bicycle. 67 years and still riding. I have never stripped a bicycle axle thread. Having wheel nuts at the proper torque does not mean they are not going to come loose. The secret to wheel nuts not coming loose, is use two and counter-tighten them. If your axle is not long enough, buy a longer one. On a really short cheapo hub motor axle, I had to buy some 12 mm nuts and saw them in two to make thin nuts. Takes a special thin wrench, which I make by grinding down a conventional one. Wear safety glasses when using power tools. There are elastic stop nuts available in packs of 10 for M12x1.25 https://www.mcmaster.com/94645A113/ M12x1.5 https://www.mcmaster.com/94645A229/ and M12x1.75 https://www.mcmaster.com/94645A230/ . I have never seen a motor axle have 1.75 thread, but I have owned the other two. Regular bike axles are 3/8" x 26 tpi, which is not sold at any hardware store or industrial supply.
QR axles are an invitation to kids to steal your wheel and throw it in somebody's yard. Bicycles are chained up all over west Louisville missing the front wheel and seat. If you never eat, drink shop, void, or meet off your bicycle, and never break down and have to go elsewhere to acquire a part or tool, QR axle is just right for you.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@indianajo are you talking about thru-axles? Are you sure?

A thru-axle. Not your usual QR axle.

 

[Chargeride]

Just to clarify, mine is a thru axle with a QR similar to a seatpost clamp.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Just to clarify, mine is a thru axle with a QR similar to a seatpost clamp.

View attachment 186437

Yes Chris, I know. The MTB style, certainly a very good one. Not the QR axle for a skewer with drop-outs

P.S. These thru-axles are usually more expensive than the regular ones. Once you rotate the handle to the same position (usually it is vertically! so the clamp cannot open by hitting a rock), you always get the same torque.

 

[Chargeride]

I was having trouble lining it up, bearing in mind I was next to a 100ft drop into sea, to make it tight enough it was pointing forwards, its a bit fiddly because as you screw it in using the notch, the lever ends up jammed in the notch and you have bend it out to to release it, which tightens it up more and then you cant turn it.
So you loosen it a little and then its not tight enough.

Thats what she said

 

[fooferdoggie]

you need this guy its easy to use the lever as a rachet.

Amazon.com

 

[Stefan Mikes]

you need this guy its easy to use the lever as a rachet.
Amazon.com

This axle only fits certain hubs. Not for a Vado SL for sure (F: 12x110 mm front, R: 12x148 mm).

 

[Chargeride]

How do you undo it?

 

[Chargeride]

I had another problem, just had a look at the axle and I couldnt undo it, the notch isnt strong enough to withstand the undoing force because I tightened it unfastened and started to buckle, I had to use grips on the collar.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I had another problem, just had a look at the axle and I couldnt undo it, the notch isnt strong enough to withstand the undoing force because I tightened it unfastened and started to buckle, I had to use grips on the collar.

I don't really know what your issue was. I had stock QR thru-axles on Giant Trance E+. Undoing and re-tightening them was extremely easy. The handles were always pointing up after tightening the axle. Now I can remember the handles were not clamps! Just handles. It was possible because the part was precisely engineered, so when the threads were fully engaged and proper torque was exerted, it was guaranteed the handle would be vertical.

Not sure whether the memory serves me well; need to ask my brother.

 

[BEC111]

As I say, it does not need to be that accurate. The role of the thru-axle is to squeeze the fork sockets on the hub bearings. It is enough to apply as much torque as the axle doesn't loosen itself. Your 11 Nm torque wrench is adequate. If you need a good one, I use this torque wrench myself:

Pro Bike Tool Torque Wrench

Once, I forgot tightening the front thru-axle after replacing the wheel and rode for 20 km... Just fancy how good thru-axles are!

The Pro wrench is on my list. It definitely hits the bill.

Thanks for the confirmation of my perceptions on practicality.

 

[PCeBiker]

Just to clarify, mine is a thru axle with a QR similar to a seatpost clamp.

View attachment 186437

,.. to make it tight enough it was pointing forwards, its a bit fiddly

My QR through axle that came with my forks works pretty cool.
The axle spins so you can set the axle where it needs to be to get the lever where you want it when it's closed,..

@Chargeride What about an appropriately sized shim washer somewhere on your axle or fork that's about ½ a thread thick?
It might get your QR to tighten up in the right direction?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@Chargeride: I have consulted my brother.
First of all, there is a nut on the opposite side of the fork. The position of the nut is set and fixed by a little screw. The position is selected the way the axle's handle points up whenever the threads have fully engaged.

Now, the handle is a clamp, as you say and as @PCeBiker has shown. As you close the clamp, proper stress is exerted on the fork, so the force acting on the fork through the axle is always the same (therefore, we even don't talk 'torque' here). Important, the opposing nut must be set the way the handle/clamp is pointing up in the final position. It is to avoid strikes against objects on the trail. All what I said until now it about the front axle. It is very similar to the rear axle, only the handle/clamp points rearwards there.

 

[Chargeride]

On mine you have to fulky oprn the lever to sit in the slot to be able to turn the axle, which means when it tightens you have to guess the torque so it will be tight when you close the lever.
I havent noticed the other side, I'll have a look.

Is that the screw?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Is that the screw?

Yes it is!